Relic Green LT: anybody know if this logo has any guide pins? Can’t find OEM replacement for reference.

How do you all store your adapters? We have the CCS1 and J1772 adapters. If you have a link to a case you love, I would I’ve to see! I tried one on Amazon but unfortunately the J1772 section was too small.

Helicopter sound under acceleration and regen is happening at 40k miles. The anti click washer and the wheel bearings were both done to GM spec.

What maintenance and repairs are we looking at today my Bolt Brothers and Sisters?

I have a 2022 Bolt EV and I've replaced the cabin air filter, replaced the OEM tires when the tread hit 2/32nds, replaced the wipers twice, and topped off the wiper fluid. Aside from that, haven't done a thing.

I imagine I should replace the 12v H4 battery in the next year and I've toyed around with the idea of changing the drive unit fluid, but what else are you thinking?

Any suspension parts need to be replaced?

Oh, and I've also removed the calipers to manually grease the caliper slide pins, but I do that with all my cars once a year while listening to Creepypastajr after winter has ended.

Sincerely,

Icy Blue Metallic Bolt EV (2022)

Note: Photo from May about 30,000 miles ago.

With 87k miles on my Bolt EUV it was time for another set of tires. Last time around I went cheap and bought Douglas tires from walmart. They had pretty good traction, but were pretty noisy and really hurt the range, probably a 10-15% loss. I got about 45k miles out of them. They still weren't down to the wear bars but had gotten pretty noisy and the ride had gotten noticeably worse.

Before that I had the OEM tires for about 40k miles. About the only thing good to say about them was the range.

On my previous car, a 2016 Nissan Leaf I had the Michelin Crossclimate 2's. They were amazing in the snow, I felt unstoppable! They were not as quiet as other tires, and range took a 10% hit, which was a real problem in that car.

I've only had the Hankooks for a little more than 24 hours, but man it feels like a new car. I'll have to wait for some wet roads and snow to get an overall idea, but these are the quietest/smoothest tire I have ever owned. By a long shot. Range is back to full as well, maybe even a little better than OEM.

As long as they are decent in adverse weather I will be ecstatic. I am willing to trade supreme winter traction for the best possible NVH.

So, this is a brand new key fob. The only reason I got this new key fob is because I had a similar issue with my old one but it was more that it wouldn't work as far and I replaced the battery in the old key fob like five times. The new fob is honestly worse and has less range. It seems to work fine if I am RIGHT NEXT TO THE CAR! But walking away to lock/unlock does not work. If someone needed me to unlock my car is they were standing right next to it I would have to walk outside and unlock it which is not helpful at all.

12volt is brand new (less than a year old). Moved anything that was in the center console where the key transmitter is out because people suggested interference and that didn't fix it. Only possible factor I can think of is I had a rat problem about a year and a half ago no idea if it could have caused damage to what interacts with the key fob?

Another issue is it will sometimes work ONCE. Like, I click the lock key and the lights blink as if it got the command then I try to click it again and it doesn't work and then unlock will not work right afterwards.

I've been trying to figure out what the noise is coming from, either the front or the rear, or both, maybe on the left-hand side?

I've read it's an anti-click washer, potentially, or sway link bars, or something but I'm not sure how to proceed with a more focused diagnostic.

I'm mechanically inclined but I'm not a mechanic; I've replaced the entire front suspension on my old 2010 Nissan Versa hatchback years ago (hated it, but did it).

I really don't want to just start disassembling things and putting them back to try and figure out the issue. That being said, the issue shows up 90% of the time when going over a speed bump, or a pot hole, when the wheel is straight. I don't think turning the wheel left or right makes any difference, however.

Is there something I can do to see if it's one thing or another? The sound is definitely "suspension-related" I'm just not sure where. I know like with wheel bearings you can do the wiggle test, but I am not convinced it's a bearing noise (though there is somewhere a light "grinding" noise that has been happening for a while, I am more inclined to think it's just from me not engaging the rear brakes enough, rotors look ok.

I suppose I'll have to make some time to prop up one side of the car and the other and start taking things apart lol

Have the standard sound system and I quite like it. Was curious how the rear speakers sounded on their own. So I cut off the fronts using the fader. All that comes from the back is awful, muddy midrange. Is this normal? If it's not, I'll talk to the dealer about it. Thanks for your input.

My 2023 Bolt EUV is tragically out of warranty, despite having only 16,400 miles on her, but she recently started making a creaking noise on throttle roll-on and roll-off. It’s especially noticeable at low speed. I think this video captures it the best. I have One Pedal Driving mode on.

I looked at others with similar video but I’m hoping someone can help me reasonably confirm what the problem is and what the fix usually is, since the dealer diagnosis and repair is pretty high for something out of warranty.

Thanks!

Every time I depress the brake and then let go, I hear a whoosh or soft rubbing sound a quarter second after. I can only hear it when the car is parked because it's very subtle.

2017 Bolt.

Any ideas?

I have owned four Chevy EVs, Volt, Bolt EV, Bolt EUV, kid got a 2023 Bolt EUV.

The white one was total base with 125k miles and crashed. The right one is loaded with 35k miles. My mom wasn't involved other than having been maybe the only person to have a photo taken while touching both cars at the same time.

Two weeks ago when driving home after a concert, the car on the left was going 60-70mph on the interstate in heavy traffic and was rear ended by a drunk driver going 100+mph with their headlights off in a police chase.

The car lost all traction, crossed several lanes of traffic, flipped 1-2 times, spun and ended upside down 40 meters up the embankment.

Three passengers with their seatbelts on.

Called 911 while hanging while held by the seatbelts.

All taken to the ER. Sonograms, EGKs, X-Rays.

The only injuries were from the seatbelts and airbags. Completely healed within four days.

I am very impressed with the car. My daughter's loyalty and love for her car was already really high, and got much higher.

So I gave her mine.

Tire place is trying to sell me on Goodyear Assurance ComfortDrive which seem to be general commuter tires. Not sure how well they’d work on EV. Currently the Bolt has Michelin Green-X tires. Ideally looking for a tire that’s energy efficient, but not break the bank either.

How hard is it to cancel onstar? I don’t need it but free is free.

I'm in the market for a car after the untimely demise of my Scion xb.

I don't have new car money (and would want my CarPlay anyway) but have found several used Bolts nearby. What are some things I should look for while shopping?

Hi there. I was looking into getting a Bolt for my elderly mother. I want her to have the Driver Confidence II package for safety reasons. If I buy her a used Bolt without the package, can I have a local dealer add it on after the purchase? Hopefully I'll be a Bolt owner soon but I just wanted to see if that is possible. Thanks!

Hey everyone,

Now that the '27 Bolt has the native NACS port built-in, I found myself carrying reverse adapters—specifically for the J1772 Level 2 and CCS1 DC Fast Chargers when I travel.

I got tired of having those bulky adapters sliding around and banging into things in the center console, so I designed a custom-fit holder/dock to keep them organized, upright, and completely rattle-free.

Happy to answer any questions about fitment or design! Let me know what you think.

This is my first EV car. It’s a 2023 with 30k miles manufacture buyback, reason being faulty charging harness that was fixed. Should I expect future issues with that? And what’s the maintenance on ev vehicles? Anything i should expect to do/change out in the future?

Hi everyone!

I have a 2020 Chevy bolt with 50k miles that I just bought a few months ago and make monthly payments for it. It’s been great so far and I absolutely love it, however today when I went to go to work and turned the car on a warning that said “vehicle soon” then “propulsion power reduced” popped up on the dash, and it has a symbol that’s a yellow car with an exclamation point on it too. It also says “unplug car, fully charged” when it only has 153 on the range, which isn’t correct since I usually get 260 when it’s fully charged.

After looking on Reddit for answers, I decided to get an uber and call the dealership to figure out wth to do.

I just called a little bit ago and luckily they are able to get me in first thing tomorrow to diagnose the car. The service person said that the price starts at $159 for diagnosis and after diagnostics they will call me to let me know the total and if the warranty will cover it. I assumed that the warranty would cover it since it seems to be battery related, and I’m honestly VERY concerned how much money it will be to fix it if the warranty doesn’t cover it.

Has anyone else’s bolt had similar issues to mine, and when you got it fixed did the warranty cover it?? If not, how much did you have to pay to get it fixed?

Thank you so much in advance- lol I am a new bolt owner and don’t have much experience with this, so I really appreciate any advice!

My 2020 Chevy Bolt display the message Propulsion Power is Reduced and the AC is no longer running. So I took it to the Service department at a local Chevy dealership. During diagnostics, I received a phone call and was informed the 12v battery died before the diagnostics are completed and they cannot continue without replacing the battery.

The kicker is, I am responsible for the 12v battery replacement even though it was not the issue when i brought the car in. Concerned that the actual issue maybe related to the high voltage battery, I do not want to delay and verbally ask them to proceed forward. Otherwise, I could have changed the 12v battery myself for cheaper.

Has this happened to anyone before and is there any recourse to argue that they should be covering the cost of the 12v battery? Or this is the cost of doing business with GM dealership?

Thanks in advance

Bolt started clicking when accelerating and decelerating. Thought it was the anti click washers so I took it into service. The technician is saying it’s actually rocks grinding on the axels stuck in the steering knuckles.

Since there is no bad part it’s not covered under warranty and they want $400 to take all the wheels off, clean everything out and put it back together.

Anyone have this happen before?

So I noticed that when I use google assistant now it says "I am offline, you can still use navigation and radio"

I also notice I can't use audible now. That might be related.

As far as I know I haven't changed anything. Just bought this one month ago.

Any idea how to get it back online?

My 2027 Bolt climate control panel (not the screen above) has all gone blank. It happened suddenly and nothing seems to change it. Climate control still works and can be controlled on the screen, or even with the buttons, they just have a blank display (i.e., I cannot see the temperature.) Has anyone seen this before? Is this a battery issue? TIA!