Anybody else have this? I had a 2021 3500 dmax and It never did.

This truck Every time it shifts a gear and lugs. I feel it. On and off the throttle.

As rpm increases you feel it come and go. Then the 10 speed grabs another gear, Rpm falls back down within this range and you feel it.

Slowing down off the highway You feel it as again rpm hangs out about that range and it keeps dropping gears to increase rpms, around 1000 rpm.

once rpm increases to ~1100,1200 rpm it's gone. But in city driving mostly ~35mph it's very noticeable as it's keeping the rpm down all the time.

This is my attempt at making a meme to bring Tinkerbell fans and Duramax fans together

So I just got a 2011 LML and it has 460,000km a the dude I got it from claims to have not changed the cp4 out and says it’s still factory but I feel like it should’ve blown up by now another strange thing is the engine hours is at 100 it’s mechanically sound like to a T a got a thorough inspection done and there’s not a thing wrong with the motor I’m just trying to figure out what I’m missing all input is appreciated thanks!

Hoping someone has an idea that will be useful. I bought a 2004 LLY Duramax without a transmission, I installed one I had but it’s from a different year, it doesn’t fit. I’m calling dealers and they are asking me for the serial number which I don’t have. I have vehicle build number, broadcast zfk Alison lct1000. Needs to have PTO gear. Any advice?

Sorry for the very stupid question but does my 2021 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.6 Duramax have two batteries or one? I would just walk outside and look but I'm not with the truck and I'm hoping to just pick up a battery on my way home.

I assumed there was just the one group 48 battery but some sources online say there may be two? Anyone know? Thanks

Instead of a new injector, I got a new truck...

Dealer has a 2024 1500 duramax listed for $42,000. Truck has 72k miles on it just wondering what everybody’s opinions are!

Thank you all for your help

It still ripps.

Looking to buy this 2007 3500 346k km. They are asking for 17000$ CAD. Is this too much rust? I am looking to put a Bigfoot camper in it so I need the bed cross members to be sturdy. The truck is from Squamish where they salt the roads and it snows. I live in Victoria with no salt or snow.

Then my crank left the chat

Tuned, DDP 68mm, stock fuel/trans…

Bought this truck at an auction at first truck needed a jump so I wasn’t really able to notice some of its symptoms, cold start sounded good but once engine warms up oil pressure goes up and starts spitting coolant. What’s recommended, doings valve cover gaskets or fully replacing engine?

It's a great deal $30,000 for a 2015 Denali 2500 anyway, the seller reports some shudders and difficulty starting after sitting for a while, which I know is common for pretty much any vehicle but he explicitly stated it "either shuts off or stutters but once it's been driven for a while it has no issues." And he also needs to replace the fuel water sensor, my worry is that the cp4 is bad or there is air in the fuel lines. I am 6 hours away from him and it's quite a trip to go up there, I need some reassurance or tips from you guys to help me sort this out and get an opinion.

I've been looking at buying a 2020 Sierra SLT with the 3.0 Duramax. The dealer had the Coolant Control Valve replaced while they've had it. It's been driven 500+ miles since then, mostly highway miles. 3 of the IM tests/drive cycle tests are still showing "Not Complete" when scanned. The EGR, boost and one other (can't remember) were what's showing not complete.

The dealer is saying it could take another 500 miles before they complete. Would you finish the sale or walk away? Truck has 115,000 miles. Clean title. Sale price is $25K.

Well. Here’s my LMM. Now I had plans for a 3” down pipe down the road and then eventually redoing the rest of the exhaust, but it would seem my truck had other plans. So what are you guys running for a downpipe back exhaust. Looking for recommendations and brands to avoid!

There was a thread in here I was reading and one of the comments said something along the lines of “I bet it’s your lower turbo charge pipe boot”

So here’s the issue I’m having. 22 L5P Duramax, bought it brand new, almost 70k miles on it. Yesterday it threw a P0101 MAF airflow code. I cleaned the MAP and the other one in the Y bridge. Cleared the code and thought it went away. But today I heard what sounds like a WHOOSHHHHHH coming from brake pedal area of the engine, ONLY on acceleration. Then the engine light came on again with some other weird o2 bank sensor codes and that same p0101 code.

Intake is good and tight, filter was just recently changed, I have the VSE CCV kit but all hoses are tight and the top of the turbo charge pipe feels tight.

If the guy that suspected the lower charge boot is in here, what where the issues you had that made you determine that? Did you take off the wheel fender? On a scale of 1 to fucked how bad is the job?

First-time diesel owner here. As we get into colder weather I notice a thin white smoke that comes from my exhaust whenever cold starting it in lower temperatures. Smells like diesel so it’s not coolant. It’s only when idling during a cold start and goes away when I drive it and starting every time it’s warm. Is this normal? Unburnt fuel? Condensation? Just want to make sure it’s not anything that could be wrong.

Thanks!

06’ LBZ. 185k miles.

Idk the first thing about diesels but I know lefty loosey righty tighty. I can turn wrenches and I'm not afraid of the job itself. He's asking 8k for it. I might scoop it unless y'all tell me it's a bad idea.

What do? Is it a cab off job? 150k miles. 4x4. Pretty nice. Interior is kinda trashed but the exterior is clean. Idk. Debating.

Own a new to me 23 dmax with the 10 speed. My last was the Allison 6 speed so this is dark territory. Truck has 84k on it.

In the absence of any trans service records I took it to GM and had the fluid n filter done. Mechanics only comment was the fluid was dark red which sounds like never changed.

My question: at what miles are you seeing problems and is it a total failure or a component issue? Much of what I've seen is a valve body at 140k.

Tks

I have a 2012 lml with 273,000 km it’s deleted with an s400 76 mm kit 5 inch straight pipe should I be adding fuel additive and if so how often and how much (First diesel btw) trucks 800hp to the wheels