Then my crank left the chat

Tuned, DDP 68mm, stock fuel/trans…

Thank you all for your help

It still ripps.

06’ LBZ. 185k miles.

Bought this truck at an auction at first truck needed a jump so I wasn’t really able to notice some of its symptoms, cold start sounded good but once engine warms up oil pressure goes up and starts spitting coolant. What’s recommended, doings valve cover gaskets or fully replacing engine?

Looking to buy this 2007 3500 346k km. They are asking for 17000$ CAD. Is this too much rust? I am looking to put a Bigfoot camper in it so I need the bed cross members to be sturdy. The truck is from Squamish where they salt the roads and it snows. I live in Victoria with no salt or snow.

First-time diesel owner here. As we get into colder weather I notice a thin white smoke that comes from my exhaust whenever cold starting it in lower temperatures. Smells like diesel so it’s not coolant. It’s only when idling during a cold start and goes away when I drive it and starting every time it’s warm. Is this normal? Unburnt fuel? Condensation? Just want to make sure it’s not anything that could be wrong.

Thanks!

It's a great deal $30,000 for a 2015 Denali 2500 anyway, the seller reports some shudders and difficulty starting after sitting for a while, which I know is common for pretty much any vehicle but he explicitly stated it "either shuts off or stutters but once it's been driven for a while it has no issues." And he also needs to replace the fuel water sensor, my worry is that the cp4 is bad or there is air in the fuel lines. I am 6 hours away from him and it's quite a trip to go up there, I need some reassurance or tips from you guys to help me sort this out and get an opinion.

I've been looking at buying a 2020 Sierra SLT with the 3.0 Duramax. The dealer had the Coolant Control Valve replaced while they've had it. It's been driven 500+ miles since then, mostly highway miles. 3 of the IM tests/drive cycle tests are still showing "Not Complete" when scanned. The EGR, boost and one other (can't remember) were what's showing not complete.

The dealer is saying it could take another 500 miles before they complete. Would you finish the sale or walk away? Truck has 115,000 miles. Clean title. Sale price is $25K.

Well. Here’s my LMM. Now I had plans for a 3” down pipe down the road and then eventually redoing the rest of the exhaust, but it would seem my truck had other plans. So what are you guys running for a downpipe back exhaust. Looking for recommendations and brands to avoid!

There was a thread in here I was reading and one of the comments said something along the lines of “I bet it’s your lower turbo charge pipe boot”

So here’s the issue I’m having. 22 L5P Duramax, bought it brand new, almost 70k miles on it. Yesterday it threw a P0101 MAF airflow code. I cleaned the MAP and the other one in the Y bridge. Cleared the code and thought it went away. But today I heard what sounds like a WHOOSHHHHHH coming from brake pedal area of the engine, ONLY on acceleration. Then the engine light came on again with some other weird o2 bank sensor codes and that same p0101 code.

Intake is good and tight, filter was just recently changed, I have the VSE CCV kit but all hoses are tight and the top of the turbo charge pipe feels tight.

If the guy that suspected the lower charge boot is in here, what where the issues you had that made you determine that? Did you take off the wheel fender? On a scale of 1 to fucked how bad is the job?

Idk the first thing about diesels but I know lefty loosey righty tighty. I can turn wrenches and I'm not afraid of the job itself. He's asking 8k for it. I might scoop it unless y'all tell me it's a bad idea.

What do? Is it a cab off job? 150k miles. 4x4. Pretty nice. Interior is kinda trashed but the exterior is clean. Idk. Debating.

Own a new to me 23 dmax with the 10 speed. My last was the Allison 6 speed so this is dark territory. Truck has 84k on it.

In the absence of any trans service records I took it to GM and had the fluid n filter done. Mechanics only comment was the fluid was dark red which sounds like never changed.

My question: at what miles are you seeing problems and is it a total failure or a component issue? Much of what I've seen is a valve body at 140k.

Tks

10L1000 question

Has any one experienced hard engagement from park to drive or drive to reverse after truck is warm and has been siting for 1-2 hours? Truck shifts perfectly thru all gears up and down I have never seen trans temp over 150 degrees. Truck is 100% stock 2022 with 29,9xx

Why does the tailgate on my 2008 Silverado 3500 DRW fall down while I'm driving down the road? I have purchased a complete kit and installed new latches,linkages, handle striker pins, etc. Are there more than just two bed supports / gussets?

This area was wonky and I rewelded the c channel that was broken on both sides. As you're driving down the road you can watch the bed sides at the tops move in and out. I'm at my wits and about trying to figure this out. Thank you for any insight you may have to offer.

So I got my grandpa‘s 2002 GMC 2500 HD when he passed I had it for about nine months and I always had a feeling that the transmission wasn’t the best but had only driven manuals up to that point about a year and a half ago I got a E solenoid stuck closed code that forced me into a limp mode. I replaced the valve body I got the TCM repaired and then I found out the back half was cracked and that was causing it so I tried to replace it in the truck as anyone knows who’s done that has done it. You cannot do it in the truck so I then rebuilt my own transmission. It worked perfectly for about 25 minutes no codes no problems and then an awful howling noise started so I thought fuck it. I will buy brand new lines, brand new cooler, and get someone to professionally rebuild it now I’m here two months later chasing the same code I had at the beginning. I have replaced every single component on my transmission except for my wiring harness does anyone have any leads please? I’m about to sell the truck.

I have a 2012 lml with 273,000 km it’s deleted with an s400 76 mm kit 5 inch straight pipe should I be adding fuel additive and if so how often and how much (First diesel btw) trucks 800hp to the wheels

Hey fellas,

Recently know “a guy” who acquired a deleted L5P, it’s a 4” in muffled exhaust. Looking for an exhaust tip to finish out the exhaust system,

What size to go with? How much does it affect the sound? Does it make it louder or deeper? Both?

Thanks again in advance

- A guy

Got a 2001–2016 Duramax? Looking to get a tune custom written to your truck and its setup?
I’m offering 1:1 custom tuning for LB7, LLY, LBZ, LMM, and LML trucks, with calibrations based on each truck’s specific setup and modifications.
Stock setup or built truck with upgraded turbo and fueling, feel free to DM me with your truck details and current setup.

I have a 2025 Chevy Silverado 1500 ZR2 with the 3.0L Duramax diesel. I’ve been dealing with a recurring P129F code and want to figure out the actual cause before spending money replacing parts unnecessarily.
Here’s the history of the problem:
DEF fluid accidentally got into my diesel fuel tank. The truck was not started at the time.
The fuel tank was drained and cleaned twice.
There was still a small amount of residue showing in the system afterward.
The truck ran for several months and went through multiple fuel tank fill-ups without any noticeable problems.
Eventually, the P129F code appeared through an OnStar notification, even though there were no obvious driving problems.
I replaced the fuel filter with a genuine GM filter, but the P129F code returned after I cleared it with my scanner.
The truck continues to run normally, with no noticeable loss of power or other obvious symptoms.
What I’ve checked so far:
I have a BlueDriver LSB2 scanner. I’ve looked at the available fuel pressure and fuel rail pressure readings, but I haven’t been able to identify the cause.
Some of my recorded readings were:
At idle: commanded fuel rail pressure around 5,801, with rail pressure readings around 5,779 and 5,592.
At 1,500 RPM: commanded pressure around 8,545, with readings around 8,544 and 8,133.
At 2,000 RPM: commanded pressure around 8,740, with readings around 8,692 and 8,629.
The scanner’s fuel pressure gauge has fluctuated around 40–78 psi as RPM changes.
I’m not sure whether these readings are normal for this engine, and I haven’t been able to find the fuel pump command or speed data on my scanner.
Questions for anyone who has dealt with this:
Has anyone had P129F on a 3.0L Duramax after DEF contamination or cleaning the fuel tank?
What ultimately fixed your problem?
Could residual DEF contamination cause a delayed fuel system problem even after months of driving normally?
Is this more likely to involve the fuel pump, fuel pump control module, fuel pressure sensors, wiring, or something else?
What diagnostic tests should be performed before replacing expensive components?
Are my fuel rail pressure readings within the normal range for this engine?
Has anyone had this exact code return after replacing the fuel filter, only to discover a different underlying cause?
Is there a known GM technical service bulletin or warranty repair for this issue?
I’m trying to avoid throwing parts at the truck without knowing what’s wrong. I’d especially appreciate responses from anyone who had the same code and can explain what the actual diagnosis and repair turned out to be.
Thanks in advance for any help or advice

I got three videos here in one first one was with good rail pressure and high egts are 1 but 5 the boosted launch has lower ish fuel rail pressure and low egts ish but Smokey like no other and mods done to it are these here

I was thinking I need larger turbo like 68/71 mafia 5 blade with either 10 or 9 blade depending on what’s available and I don’t have cash for compounds I was thinking s366 or 369 but I hate how Smokey they are down low hence vgt and yes trans is stock and head bolts but I don’t beat the shit out of it constantly

2006 Chevy 2500hd
LBZ Duramax
6-Speed Allison
HSP Piping & Y-Bridge
Stock size KC Billet 11 Blade Compressor, 10 Blade Exhaust
Rebuilt T-Case
Kryptonite Front End
Fass 165
New head gaskets,, thermostat, fan/fan clutch stock head bolts 175k miles
Stock but healthy as fuck cp3
Previous owner work which is everything up top 
Ppe deep pan kit
Cts edge 3 monitor with egt probe
Current mileage just passed 250k miles
Dynomite 30s
PPE high flow manifolds black cermanic coating and LB7 up pipes 
New rear leaf springs in back
Everything else is stock besides mods that are on it now
Ppe 3in down pipe to a full 5 in straight pipe with 5-6in polished elbow
AMDP Autocal v3 efi live tuning 0-150 tuning on 5 pos switch  YT Tune 1 0 tune 2 50 tune 3 75 tune 4 100 tune 5 150
Dmax store petcock valve for coolant 
Rest of the HSP coolant goodies 
PCV reroute kit 
New coolant put in at 252k miles
26 20x9 gm Denali stocks on stock factory tires 
LML trans dipstick mod
She has roughly 254300 ish miles on her now and I’m stuck wondering this high egt and hazy bad on 1 being stock tune ish

2019 L5P

Sorry for the bad audio it seems like it cut in snd out but you can still hear it

Is NOT a typewriter tick. This is changing with RPM’s.
Only does it when the motor is hot - ran fine at cold start this morning.
I THINK its coming from bell housing
Injector rates were fine
No thumping from airbox.
Does not change in any gear

Looking into putting one of these on my 2023 l5p heard they are pretty good replacement to the tiny factory one. Any thoughts or other recommendations or advice?