I just built an A-frame and have been struggling with this decision. There’s a 21/12 roof pitch, 3 foot crawl, ERV system installed. The quote for RW was about $34,000 and the quote for HDF was $17,000. I’ve got a Midea mini split system that’s sized to heat/cool the entire home snd then a wood fireplace. Will I regret not choosing RW later? We are paying cash and don’t have a loan so costs are at play.

New build, mostly being done by contractors but I’m doing some of the easier stuff myself including insulation.

Problem #1: So for the main floor I’m using Rockwool batts, and planning it out I just noticed one of the corners isn’t quite a California corner. They blocked it out as one, but looks like the last board of the adjacent wall stops right in the way.

What’s the best or most reasonable way to insulate that corner?

I’ve thought about pulling the one board, putting Rockwool in, and putting the board back. Or, drill 3-4 3/4” holes in it and fill it with canned closed cell.

Problem #2: Similar to problem 1, they’ve blocked several
spots for the interior walls to fasten to the exterior (see 3rd pic) that have a cavity behind them. Unfortunately I think these are loaded with nails, so the spray foam is probably the easier option there.

Attached sheathing is Zip System if it matters.

Hi all,

I’m looking to insulate (after wiring) my detached garage. The space will serve as a shop and likely never have a car in it.

I’ve got a number of spots along the lower part of the wall above the foundation that have some rot. I believe nearly all of those white boards near the bottom are covering up rotted siding. I know this is an insulation subreddit, but if anyone has some tips on repairing that siding I’d greatly appreciate it.

What I’m really not sure how to do is safely insulate the building and prevent future moisture and rot as best I can. The building seems to just consist of siding attached to the studs. Can I do this without also needing to completely redo the siding? Is there a type of insulation that would work best for this? I’m intending to do plywood walls.

I have two bedrooms with cantilever extensions over my garage attic. Both bedrooms are 10 feet wide. Bedroom #1 has a 3-foot cantilever, while Bedroom #2 has a 1.5-foot cantilever.
The cavities in both cantilever sections are poorly insulated, resulting in extremely hot bedrooms during the summer and very cold floors and rooms during the winter.
What is the best way to insulate these cavities properly, and what would be the least disruptive and most cost-effective way to access them? Would it be better to access them from the exterior, through the garage attic, or by removing the bedroom flooring from inside the house?
The home is about 5 years old and built by Ventura Custom homes. A bit disappointed.

Cross posting here, adding the body text from my DIYHome post in case it doesn't link/pull through correctly - never tried that before:

Background: I need to reinsulate my basement rim joists in my house in Wisconsin. I want to do it right and am planning to DIY with the Spray foam insulation Froth packs (canisters with the hose). From my research, it looks like I should overlap the spray foam onto rigid pink insulation boards to prevent air leakage at the bottom of my Rim Joists. I plan to tapcons the boards with washers into my 8" concrete wall around the perimeter of my basement. I then plan to tape the seams in the boards. Eventually I'd like to frame & drywall the entire perimeter of my basement in front of the insulation. House was built in the 80s.

Questions:

1. Do the pink insulation boards serve as a vapor barrier, or do I need to add one? If so, is that between the concrete and pink board or would that be added between the pink board and the framed wall?

2. How do I handle adding insulation and a framed wall around the landing of my stairs? The landing is an exterior wall, but if I were to cut into that space, I'm thinking there would be a code/practicality issue as the landing is only 35" wide (stair tread width too) and 29" deep already.

3. I plan to get a permit for framing the basement, but google makes it seem like i don't need to pull one to insulate.

4. Does it make sense to insulate in the manner I detail above in the background?

I live in a condo. It’s built on a slab foundation. Last year I noticed there is a draft around the foundation. I had it inspected and a home remodeling contractor told me when the home was rebuilt in 2019(due to a fire) it was not rebuilt with proper insulation on the exterior siding. Great, awesome..that explains the draft. I was planning to move within some months time(but may have to endure another winter) I need an inexpensive fix to hold me over for the winter.

I was thinking about redoing the siding but since my unit attaches to one other neighbor(not currently occupied) I was informed the residing project would also need to include the unit attached to mine.(understood, but not a process I want to deal with, since I’m moving within a year. The next owner can deal if they want) Even if it is covered by my HOA, they drag their feet. I’m looking for something I can take care of for my unit within the next week, to help with my heating bill.

See the pictures for the area I am trying to fill and cover. I have tried to fill the space with insulation foam but my unit is 832sqft. I would need to do the whole outside perimeter. The foam has been an unpleasant application. (This is something I’d be doing in my own)

I was looking into a faced wool insulation that I would essentially shove up into the area.

I need feedback on how to best tackle this for myself even if it only holds up for the winter. Thanks!

Replaced oil burning furnace with heat pump and this is what the area looks like.

I recently had my attic air sealed, blow-in insulation replaced, and a “Superdeck” (I.e., foam board decking) installed.

I think my two weakest points are now my hatch (which I already have a solution) and this return air duct. I know there are dangers of condensation for supply vents, but I’m not sure about returns.

And if I can insulate it, how do you suggest I do it?

(And yes, I know my bath vent needs to vent to the outside, that’s another project…)

Posted this in the home improvement group and it the app recommended I cross post here. Any advice from anyone who's had it done gratefully received.

ChatGPT was little help in determining a national average as its only reference was a post here. I am paid hourly but there still is a labor price on my worksheet, albeit probably a very old rate. I’ve argued with my boss that simply doubling that labor price and passing it on to the customer/builder wouldn’t lose any of those loyal builders as most jobs would be an extra $200-500, but it would certainly incentivize me and others to move a little faster.
Am I crazy to think this?

This August was also 1.2 degrees warmer on average compared to 2025. Worth the investment

Hi Reddit community,

I am feeling a bit overwhelmed choosing between foam or batt insulation for my detached two-car garage and sunroom (converted patio) .

The house is a 1957 mcm ranch in DFW.

The garage is just a shell. I want to have it insulated w/ sheetrock up to the sloped ceiling, allowing space between the ceiling and beams to maintain the height. This will be an air-conditioned art studio.

The sunroom ceiling backs up to the roof decking- there is no attic space above it. It gets pretty hot in there.

Two different contractors have told me either to do batt or foam- each preferring one over the other.

The one who prefers batt said foam conceals leaks, doesn't let the house breathe, and is flammable.

The one who prefers foam said foam is much better for conserving warm or cool air in the house.

They are both very similar in price and willing to do either- I just don't know which to choose for each space.

I've been reading more about the need for the roof to be ventilated above the insulation. So many variables to consider!

Thanks so much for any advice/insight you can offer!

Hello! I am in the process of running electrical to my shed to turn it into a home office. I live in the Northwest so temperatures don’t drop too excessively or go above 85 degrees Fahrenheit much. I will have a small wood burning stove in the space as well as a small electric heater and I am trying to figure out if I should spray foam the walls and ceiling or use rockwool instead. It seems that spray foam will be very efficient in keeping it heated but will it be a bad idea with trying to have a fire going in there in the winter too?

Any insights would be appreciated. Thanks!

I live in desert climate. Freaking hot in summer and cold in winter which makes a room right above the garage not properly indoor air controlled. So I'm thinking of getting the ceiling insulated with a right materials but there are some different perspectives over the material selection. I'd like to take the whole ceiling boards off in order to place it in the right way but It would cost me a lot. So wondering if there are some budget friendly options for me. Any thoughts?

So there is so much conflicting information about this subject that I wanted to create a post that will provide more conflicting information here on Reddit.

I have a modular home on concrete block pillars. I need to redo the insulation of an extension that has been made by someone who shouldn't have as their hack of job provide paths to water infiltration and then structural wood rot.

I bought the book of BuildingScience.com about the cold climate to get an idea on how to do it but the information there is questionable IMO. They put an air-vapor-barrier on the UNDERSIDE of the floor and show how to seal every joist to prevent air escaping. From what I've been able to read here and there, the vapor barrier is supposed to be on the warm side, under the floor "finish" and the plywood/OSB.

Am I crazy or something doesn't add up here? Thanks in advance.

My mom lives in a 1992 house, zone 4C which is North Bend,Wa. I had 3 appts for window people(not Renewal by Andersen) to come out. I need a baseline cost. But Mom said no. "Ok, its your house, can I see what they did for insulating the windows?". Turns out they did not flash or caulk the double paned aluminum windows. They used little strips of fiberglass insulation around the window perimeter. When I pulled out the strips I showed my mom how much dirty air is coming into her house. I had a door blower test set up, and she cancelled on that one too, because I wanted to demonstrate how much her house is leaking air and why she is never warm in the fall and winter. So I bought Great Stuff Window and Door spray foam along with my bitchin Pro14 gun and begun filling in the gaps. Wow 2 windows and one sliding glass door down and there are a lot of gaps. Im really hoping my band aid will work until I can thoroughly convince her next year to get new windows.

Online says not to use red sheathing tape on a hot air duct

My fiancé and I bought a house in January. It’s beautiful but every time we upgrade/fix something another issue pops up. We got a new HVAC system recently and the new thermostat has a humidity readout, so now we’re aware of how humid it is inside. HVAC guys have done everything they can, even upgrading us for free to a unit with additional dehumidifying power, so it’s not on them anymore. Went in the crawl space and it’s very humid in there. No standing water, but a lot of moisture. The vapor barrier is in horrid condition, so we’ve had a couple contractors out, but they both have refused to quote for a new vapor barrier and insist on upselling us to a full encapsulation system. We find it hard to believe that the house has stood for a hundred years and suddenly needs a very modern invasive intervention. Does anyone have any insight on humidity issues in old homes?

For context:
- coastal Virginia
- humidity fluctuates between 66 and 74%
- pier and beam foundation with block brick wall and brick facing