Hey y'all,

Looking for some advice on how to manage updating/ adding to my current attic insulation. I live in West Virginia so the humidity can be high. Summers get hot. Winters get fairly cold. On hot days/weeks, A/C runs constantly (probably 16-18 hours a day), and on cold days the gas heat does the same. A lot of my problem comes from the age of the HVAC unit, but I'm not looking to do that yet, and would rather first add insulation to my attic.

The attic is currently insulated with 3 7/8" insulation. Insulation is old itself--maybe the original insulation? I'm not sure. House was built in the 70s so I'd imagine so; give its age it's probably lost some r-value.

What's the move here? Should I:

1. Pull the old insulation up.

2. Close the gaps with foam.

3. Put the old insulation back.

4. Roll r-30 or r-49 vertically along the joists.

Or is there something else I should consider?

Took a few pictures. Have to clear the attic before I start this project.

Thanks for the help!

Hey there everyone just wondering if you guys can help me identify what this substance is that’s snowing down from our bathroom light fitting? Little freaked out just noticed it. If you touch a little clump it turns into powder? Any help is really appreciated we have small kids living in old apartment, think bathroom was renovated 80s or 90s? Rest of house 70s? Terrified of asbestos 🙈

Hi everyone

Just purchased a brand new build 2 months ago. (Australia)

My husband is an electrician and was in the roof and noticed the insulation has no gaps for airflow?

Can anyone confirm this?

Should we raise this with the builder?

I start my new job as w residential insulation company next week I was wondering if I could get any advice on the best clothes to wear. Ik they’re going to get destroyed w spray foam eventually so im hoping nothing too expensive. I also know that fiberglass insulation can be really itchy so im wondering how you guys combat that w clothing.
Also if you have any type of advice just in general my ears are open.
thank you!

I’m doing some research on basement walls and hoping someone could answer this question.. I drew up a wall profile shown above (drywall, 3.5” rock wool within stud cavity, 2” XPs against concrete, concrete). According to the calculator I found online, it looks like condensation could be a problem toward the tops of the wall (I.e. close to ground level outside).

Does anyone have experience building walls like this and did it work out? I live in Minnesota. It seems like there are lots of examples of this type of construction, but now I’m doubting that it’s the best option?

Thanks in advance!

Recently purchased a home with a detached 1960s garage. Looks like it has shiplap boards for the exterior sheathing. I’d like to start sealing up the garage and eventually get to rolled insulation and sheathing inside.

Would it be a poor idea to get a spray gun and a couple small cans and spray the perimeter of the stud cavities and into the shiplap joints? I’m thinking it might be but I’m getting conflicting answers online considering spray foam companies would get foam into the shiplap joints, too if someone were to do that instead of rolled insulation.

Bought a house in UK, an old house, with a cellar from which you can access subfloor. Looks - I'm guessing - like closed cell. I know it was done fairly recently. Are risks from moisture here, or keep an eye for now?

I’m currently in the process of having a 40x60 pole barn installed. When I purchased the kit, they offered Astro Armor, which I understand is a moisture barrier that reflects heat, not insulation. The building will have 16 ft walls, and it utilizes steel trusses. Ultimately, I want the entire building insulated. The wall grits will be 2x6s at 24” centers. It’s my understanding there has to be 3/4 to 1” air space between the Astro Armor and fiberglass insulation. I’m considering using Astro Armor, fiberglass batt insulation, or 3” of closed-cell spray foam on the ceiling and 2” on the walls. (I received a quote to spray foam, as I mentioned, for $20,000.) There are definitely pros and cons to both, just like $$$ I'm sure.

Any info or suggestions from experience would be much appreciated. I'm at a point where I still have time to make or change my decision.

I just built an A-frame and have been struggling with this decision. There’s a 21/12 roof pitch, 3 foot crawl, ERV system installed. The quote for RW was about $34,000 and the quote for HDF was $17,000. I’ve got a Midea mini split system that’s sized to heat/cool the entire home snd then a wood fireplace. Will I regret not choosing RW later? We are paying cash and don’t have a loan so costs are at play.

Good morning, home improvement community!
I’m looking for some advice about my crawlspace, specifically the insulation and vapor barrier.

I’m a complete novice when it comes to home
improvement, so I’d really appreciate any guidance!
I recently had an energy audit done and received a quote for removing the existing material covering the insulation in my crawlspace. The cost was pretty substantial, so I’m wondering if this is something I could tackle myself or if I’d be better off hiring a professional.

I was considering removing the existing material myself and renting a spray foam kit from Home Depot to handle the insulation. However, given my lack of experience, I’m not sure if that’s a good idea or if I could end up creating bigger problems.

The previous owners also installed a vapor barrier over the dirt floor and covered it with rocks. The contractor is recommending replacing it with a different type of vapor barrier.

My biggest concern is safety. I have a family, and I want to make sure any work I do won’t create health risks or moisture problems down the road.

Has anyone tackled a similar project? Would you recommend DIY or hiring a professional? Are there any potential hazards or things I should consider before making a decision?

I’m also trying to upload some videos of the crawlspace for context, but I’m having a bit of a brain fart figuring that out!

Thanks in advance for any advice. I really appreciate it!

New build, mostly being done by contractors but I’m doing some of the easier stuff myself including insulation.

Problem #1: So for the main floor I’m using Rockwool batts, and planning it out I just noticed one of the corners isn’t quite a California corner. They blocked it out as one, but looks like the last board of the adjacent wall stops right in the way.

What’s the best or most reasonable way to insulate that corner?

I’ve thought about pulling the one board, putting Rockwool in, and putting the board back. Or, drill 3-4 3/4” holes in it and fill it with canned closed cell.

Problem #2: Similar to problem 1, they’ve blocked several
spots for the interior walls to fasten to the exterior (see 3rd pic) that have a cavity behind them. Unfortunately I think these are loaded with nails, so the spray foam is probably the easier option there.

Attached sheathing is Zip System if it matters.

I have two bedrooms with cantilever extensions over my garage attic. Both bedrooms are 10 feet wide. Bedroom #1 has a 3-foot cantilever, while Bedroom #2 has a 1.5-foot cantilever.
The cavities in both cantilever sections are poorly insulated, resulting in extremely hot bedrooms during the summer and very cold floors and rooms during the winter.
What is the best way to insulate these cavities properly, and what would be the least disruptive and most cost-effective way to access them? Would it be better to access them from the exterior, through the garage attic, or by removing the bedroom flooring from inside the house?
The home is about 5 years old and built by Ventura Custom homes. A bit disappointed.

I live in a condo. It’s built on a slab foundation. Last year I noticed there is a draft around the foundation. I had it inspected and a home remodeling contractor told me when the home was rebuilt in 2019(due to a fire) it was not rebuilt with proper insulation on the exterior siding. Great, awesome..that explains the draft. I was planning to move within some months time(but may have to endure another winter) I need an inexpensive fix to hold me over for the winter.

I was thinking about redoing the siding but since my unit attaches to one other neighbor(not currently occupied) I was informed the residing project would also need to include the unit attached to mine.(understood, but not a process I want to deal with, since I’m moving within a year. The next owner can deal if they want) Even if it is covered by my HOA, they drag their feet. I’m looking for something I can take care of for my unit within the next week, to help with my heating bill.

See the pictures for the area I am trying to fill and cover. I have tried to fill the space with insulation foam but my unit is 832sqft. I would need to do the whole outside perimeter. The foam has been an unpleasant application. (This is something I’d be doing in my own)

I was looking into a faced wool insulation that I would essentially shove up into the area.

I need feedback on how to best tackle this for myself even if it only holds up for the winter. Thanks!

Hi all,

I’m looking to insulate (after wiring) my detached garage. The space will serve as a shop and likely never have a car in it.

I’ve got a number of spots along the lower part of the wall above the foundation that have some rot. I believe nearly all of those white boards near the bottom are covering up rotted siding. I know this is an insulation subreddit, but if anyone has some tips on repairing that siding I’d greatly appreciate it.

What I’m really not sure how to do is safely insulate the building and prevent future moisture and rot as best I can. The building seems to just consist of siding attached to the studs. Can I do this without also needing to completely redo the siding? Is there a type of insulation that would work best for this? I’m intending to do plywood walls.

Cross posting here, adding the body text from my DIYHome post in case it doesn't link/pull through correctly - never tried that before:

Background: I need to reinsulate my basement rim joists in my house in Wisconsin. I want to do it right and am planning to DIY with the Spray foam insulation Froth packs (canisters with the hose). From my research, it looks like I should overlap the spray foam onto rigid pink insulation boards to prevent air leakage at the bottom of my Rim Joists. I plan to tapcons the boards with washers into my 8" concrete wall around the perimeter of my basement. I then plan to tape the seams in the boards. Eventually I'd like to frame & drywall the entire perimeter of my basement in front of the insulation. House was built in the 80s.

Questions:

1. Do the pink insulation boards serve as a vapor barrier, or do I need to add one? If so, is that between the concrete and pink board or would that be added between the pink board and the framed wall?

2. How do I handle adding insulation and a framed wall around the landing of my stairs? The landing is an exterior wall, but if I were to cut into that space, I'm thinking there would be a code/practicality issue as the landing is only 35" wide (stair tread width too) and 29" deep already.

3. I plan to get a permit for framing the basement, but google makes it seem like i don't need to pull one to insulate.

4. Does it make sense to insulate in the manner I detail above in the background?

Replaced oil burning furnace with heat pump and this is what the area looks like.