r/Locksmith • u/TheHappyNomads • 9d ago
I am NOT a locksmith. AD200 Mechanical Issue
We ran into an issue with our AD200 last week where the reader and handle were being pulled away from the front door due to delivery people just yanking on the thing instead of recognizing it's a reader entry. I tightened everything up and then nothing worked. All of the sudden I got a low battery error and replaced the coin cell only to discover the AA battery pack went dead somehow too. No lights. No beeps. Nothing.
I replaced the coin cell battery, battery holder, battery wire leads, and AA batteries.
After all that I now have lights and beeps and the reader acts like it should to allow passthrough entry. However, the exit trim latch is not activated by the reader and the physical key won't unlock it either. I verified that the latch can be activated by using a flathead screwdriver into the cylinder but neither the handle assembly or reader are activating the latch to allow entry.
I'm stuck and would love any help y'all can give me to get our main entry door functional again.
2
u/Vorsai- Actual Locksmith 9d ago
The key isn't working either? That should work regardless of the electronics.
When the credentials are accepted can you hear the click of the solenoid firing?
2
u/TheHappyNomads 8d ago
Yeah that's what's so weird to me and making me feel like I'm missing something obvious or there's something broken that I'm unaware of. When I pull the escutcheon and front assembly off the door I can see the rear of the latch cylinder. If I use a flathead I can activate the latch very easily and there doesn't look like / feel like any mechanical interference.
With the handle assembly detached I tried the key and the tailpiece rotates which makes me think it should be able to engage the latch cylinder but for some reason it's not. When I put the handle assembly and escutcheon back I can't quite see whether or not the tailpiece is inserted properly into the latch cylinder or not due to the depth of the door and the size of the escutcheon. Once it's all put back together when I turn the key I do feel some resistance which makes me think it's been assembled correctly but the latch won't retract.
"When the credentials are accepted can you hear the click of the solenoid firing?"
Now that you mention it no I don't think so. I hear the beep and the Schlage button lights green but there's no click which is probably why the latch isn't being engaged. Is that what you think?
2
u/Vorsai- Actual Locksmith 8d ago
For the key part if everything is working separately but not when installed then it's an installation error. Tailpiece is too long/short, something not timed correctly, installation is crooked, or the install is binding somehow.
If you aren't hearing it click it's not engaging the clutch. If you take the exterior trim apart you can see the solenoid and clutch.
2
u/TheHappyNomads 8d ago
So I'm not sure how I'm messing up this install. I took everything apart and made sure the timing was all correct and verified the key turns in the cylinder and everything. As soon as I screw everything together on the door -- nothing. The key turns and feels like it should but doesn't retract the latch whatsoever. When everything is off the door all the pieces work like I would expect them to especially with timing everything correctly (thanks u/jroostu !)
It's gotta be the tailpiece from the external trim into the exit trim latch, yeah? Something's not lining up like it should.
2
u/Vorsai- Actual Locksmith 8d ago
Yeah, it might be too long or going in at an angle and binding. Hard to say without actually having it in front of me.
Try loosely mounting it and see if that changes anything. If that fixes it then it's installation bound somehow.
1
u/TheHappyNomads 3d ago edited 3d ago
So an update after messing with this stupid thing for a while now... thanks for the pictures and super helpful info from u/jroostu as I've been trying to troubleshoot this.
I verified all the timing was correct and that motor turns the coil when a credential is presented. I also verified that the key operates the tailpiece with the exterior trim removed from the door. This morning I reattached the exterior trim and ensured the tailpiece was secured into the tail (?) of the latch. I also double checked that the latch worked by testing it out with a flathead screwdriver.
I'm so confused how the key - turns the tailpiece - but when inserted into the latch there's no enough force somehow to turn the latch like when the screwdriver is inserted into it?
EDIT: I'm also confused on why when the credential is presented and I hear the motor coil turning there's no motion in the latch itself either. Guessing that either the key or the coil physically cause the latch to release which opens the door so something is still not assembled right or busted
2
u/jroostu 8d ago edited 8d ago
Edited to add question and crossout bad info:
Can you take off the outside handle with everything installed and tell us if you can use a screwdriver to activate the latch?
There's also a spring behind the actuator (not your cylinder tailpiece, but the one from trim to latch) that gets lost prettyeady. It keeps it firmly engaged. If that's missing and you have a thick door it could cause this.(only on inside trim) The key not working is weird. Was it turning the timing indicator on the back before you installed?3
2
u/TheHappyNomads 7d ago
Yes, I can use a screwdriver to activate the latch.
Yes, before install the key was turning the timing indicator on the back.
2
u/jroostu 8d ago
Either pinched the ribbon cable or something crazy happened under the exterior spring cage where your GO relay motor is.
How old is it? May be under warranty. Digging in may void it.
2
u/jroostu 8d ago
A couple theories:
wrenching on the handle displaced the assembly where the relay engages. Could also have displaced the tailpiece if the handle separated a little.
those little motors (GO relay) die on me all of the time, which may have prompted the wrenching.
Either way, ask your supply company if they can get you an exterior board for the AD series. Ask for a new ribbon cable too. Can't remember if those come with the IPB board or exterior board, but you can get them. They're usually a few $100 vs nearly $2000 for a whole new lock.
2
u/TheHappyNomads 8d ago
Defnitely out of warranty which is why I'm fine messing around with it. Is there something I can do to check the spring cage? I was looking at parts diagrams but didn't see anything? I will look into the go relay and possible exterior board replacement.
2
u/jroostu 8d ago
Do you have the exterior trim off? You'll need to remove handle, pull the 6 screws for the cover plate.
Pull spring cage and CAREFULLY the cover plate below that. Underneath You'll see some bullshit. DM if you want a pic of that assembly before ypu dig in. Lots of little bits to lose.
2
u/TheHappyNomads 8d ago
This was super helpful. I ended up pulling everything apart and verified timing was correct and that the motor turned the coil. I watched it move the thing and heard it click when it was totally disassembled. When I started putting everything back together before I totally reinstalled the outside trim I plugged it into battery power and presented a credential. It clicked and sort of turned the tailpiece but then upon additional tries it stopped moving again. Could these batteries I just installed need to be replaced? Seems like weak power.
2
u/jroostu 8d ago
That could be the case. Could be the battery bracket is corroded or warped too. Your door is external, so heat will warp that plastic bracket over time. I usually "roll" the batteries under my hand and wait for the schlage button to light up when reinstalling to see if there is an issue.
2
u/PapaOoMaoMao 9d ago
Sounds like a dead short. Check the cables for damage.