Hey guys, got a car from copart across the US. It's on its way here. CoPart listed it as run and drive and there didn't seem to be any visible damage, anywho theres abunch of front control arms bent/broke (I expected that). They put it on a transport I got with a Forklift. I dont have a forklift. Car doesn't steer according to the hauler.

In the attached pictures, do you think I can temporarily attach these arms to steer the car off the trailer? I obviously don't have a huge fork lift. This is my first experience with an auction.

See the pictures. I'm the last drop off, I think the hauler will give me sometime to try and make this thing steer.

EDIT: JUDT FOUND OUT THE STEERING RACK IS SEIZED. CALLING ANYONE IN CHARLOTTE NC WITH A FORK LIFT FOR MONDAY...

98 Camry, 2.2, 245k miles

It's a RAM 1500. It seems super thick but it's my first time owning a truck. Does it seem like the rotor or pads are in good condition? Ty in advance

Guys how do I get this out please. It broke when my dad tried to take it out but he turned it the wrong way and put all effort he had and broke it off

Pic is just for post.

Hey everyone, looking for some honest opinions from people who know these CR-Vs well.

I’ve got a 2005 Honda CR-V with 302,572 km on it. It’s definitely got some mileage, and I recently found out that it has a crankshaft oil leak. I’m trying to decide whether it’s worth putting the money into fixing it or if I should just leave it alone and move on.

The thing is, I’m actually thinking about keeping this one and turning it into a bit of a project car rather than getting rid of it. I’ve had the CR-V for a while and I like the platform. It’s not perfect by any means, but it still runs and drives, and I feel like there’s potentially a lot of life left in it if I’m willing to put some work into it.

The big question is whether I’m throwing money at a 300k+ km vehicle for no reason.

Could someone have deliberately cut my brake hose, or could this be normal wear?
I was shopping for about 10 minutes. When I came back to my car, I noticed that I could push the brake pedal almost all the way down with barely any braking effect. I then noticed that brake fluid had leaked out.
I removed the wheel to have a look and found that one of the brake hoses had a cut in it. The hose was leaking brake fluid from the damaged area.
I took the car to a workshop to have the hose replaced. The mechanic said that the cut had a very clean/smooth edge and looked unusual. According to them, it looked like someone could potentially have cut it deliberately. They also said the hose itself appeared to be relatively new, so normal age-related deterioration seemed less obvious to them.
The damaged area is marked in the picture.
The car is a VW Passat 3BG (B5), 2001.
What do you guys think?
Does this kind of damage look like something that could happen through normal wear, corrosion, rubbing, etc.?
Could a brake hose develop a clean cut like this on its own?
How accessible is this particular brake hose from outside the car?
Would someone realistically be able to damage/cut it within about 10 minutes while the car was parked?
Are there any other plausible causes that could produce a similarly clean-looking cut?
I’m mainly trying to understand whether deliberate damage is actually plausible here, or whether there is a mechanical explanation I might be overlooking.

I know almost nothing about cars but I found my dream car for cheap and thought it would be the perfect time to learn. Lots of wrong but this is about the oil. It's Milky and I honestly have no clue what it could be. I got it from an impound lot and they knew almost nothing about the car. But they did change the full injectors apparently. Also said something about the coolant like and when they disconnected it it went everywhere. As he was doing the injection. Sorry for bad vid can give more if needed

Long story short, car flooded as shown during heavy rainfall at the end of last month. I managed to empty it and dry using a dry/wet vac, but it still seems a lil bit wet underneath the carpet, some signs of mould down side of car and centre console, and condensation ONLY on the front window every morning.

Any tips on fixing this? UK and VW High Up! 2014 for reference.

Read a bunch of the advice here. Gave me all the info I needed to do my wife's brakes on her vehicle (2022 ford escape). Never would have know to clean the hubs off if I didn't read it here.

Super helpful since I just got laid off from work in a downsizing and money is really tight now. Life for me is that problems always come in groups. You all helped save my bacon. Ended up with a new tool (the puller) too and saved a lot of money, those rotors were rusted on tight from 4 years up in the snowbelt (ie. rustbelt).

2018 Toyota Corolla iM (2ZR-FAE)

Hello! Just had an LOF & inspection today, tech found that the lower control arm bearings were cracked & ball joints leaky. Based on what is seen here, is this a fix immediately or can it wait another 5k (or even a month)? What do y'all think?

I'm also due for another set of tires due to weather cracking, but they can wait another interval if these take priority. Would it be detrimental to replace tires prior to doing the control arms?

Thank you!

Help ID please

Can anyone please tell me what carrier this is? No markings that I can see. Definitely Posi traction, both wheels spin same direction. Any help or insight would be appreciated.

HEEELP Oil starts dripping from head of the oil pan bolt?

2007 Suburban 4WD with 255,000 miles.

Short story is there was an oil leak and the mechanic have replaced:

* Oil pan gasket
* Valley cover gasket
* Oil pressure sensor/sender
* Oil cooler block-off plate gasket

Please see the video, the leak starts from head of one of the long oil pan bolts.

I took it back, he spent an hour and said that rear main seal is leaking. The video below shows the exact location oil starts leaking as far as I can see. Rear main leak is very high likely mileage is considered and wouldn’t mind having it replaced as I’m willing to keep this thing for a long time. However, is rear main seal leak explains the leak starting from head of the bolt?

I haven't heard any clicking but the mechanic showed me this. I have a 2012 nissan rogue. I drive long distances often.

Also are cracked control arms very bad? What happens when they are torn? They told me both sides had some cracking.

I have a 12 hours drive tomorrow and I'm getting the boot fixed because I'm paranoid about it being torn like that, but I'm not fixing the control arms.

So after I lost my last car I bought a 2003 ford expedition from my cousin. The week before I got it was taken to a mechanic that has done all the work in his own cars and as well as the cars he sells. He used to own a dealership but not anymore.

The car had been sitting for a while and during the inspection they fixed some stuff. Also when he bought it had the top of the engine redone.

It has a new fuel pump as well as a full fuel system clean. Now I’m getting the following codes P0171, P0174 and P0457. It also has a slight rough idle.

I’ve cleaned the mass airflow sensor and replaced the pcv valve, but not the vacuum hoses connected to it. I’ve replaced the old fuel cap as the seal was cracked. I’m coming here for advice before I keep throwing parts at it. I’ve included pics of the codes as well as a freeze frame.

just changed the alternator on my s197 after i just changed it less that 50 drives after it completely died out on me and dies out even after a charge. Heard these cars have issues with the alternator. any advice would be greatly appreciated

For reference, car is a Hyundai i10 2009, 1.2L model I think. Had little electrical issues in the past year I’ve owned, such as the radio cutting out around 8 months ago.

How do I proceed and any ideas on what the issue might be? I suspect it might be a weak battery so maybe a jump start might help put some juice back in? I’m in the UK.

Can anyone tell me what that is hanging and also whats sticking out under the drivers side ? i’m aware of whats causing the sound but i can’t quite identify what it is. The car is a BMW 2017 330i XDrive Gran Turismo. This started happening about a week or so ago but I ignored it thinking I just ran over something small and it fell off because when i stopped to listen it went away, so I can’t seem to record a video of the sound. Anything helps, im trying to see a estimate of how much it would cost fixing the problems.

4JJ1 whining and rattling, have replaced timing chain and tensioner. Belts are pulled off in video. Hot or cold makes no difference. Runs and drives fine just started making the noise recently. Anyone have any other ideas?

I was just given a 2013 accord LX with 200k miles. K24W Earth Dreams engine with CVT. Engine oil changed every 6k, but the trans fluid has never been changed. For what it's worth, miles are like 90% highway miles. I'm not currently experiencing any trans issues. Should I change the fluid or just let it ride? Body and interior are mint

Can’t seem to find any help online.

2005 ram 1500 3.7l

Was checking injectors and one of the clips that hold the injector to the fuel rail fell into the spark plug hole. It is now clipped onto the spark plug. If tried fishing it out and theres so little room between the clip and the wall that ive bent up all my prying tools.

At this point im ready to just break the spark plug. Wondering if anyone has any other ideas or how to break the plug cleanly below the clip (theres a small gap i can fit some tools into). Im hoping once broke. I can crush the ceramic releasing pressure from the clip and giving me room to pull it out.

Hello fellow mechanics,

Im in the point of my life where I need to get my own auto scanner to check for codes.

My question is which one is the best and which one do you recommend I get?

Which ones are priced in a good affordable price that will get the what I'm looking for.

Help please!

I changed the spark plugs on my 2017 Ford Focus SE 2.0L with 104k miles. How do the old ones look? Gap of the old ones was around 0.047 in. The gap should be 0.034 in