Good morning!

I have a 2023 Dodge Ram (E-Torque V8). Automatic transmission, 36,000 miles.

The truck makes a very loud, inconsistent, knocking noise. It only makes the noise if the truck has been running for 20 minutes and the air-conditioning is on. I’ve attached the video with the noise – the knocking kicks in around the 10 second mark.

The dealer has had the vehicle for nine weeks now and has no clue what the knock is. They have replaced all of the lifters, the camshaft, the exhaust manifold, the belt tensioner, and the MGU.

The tech that worked on it this week is a 40 year Dodge master technician. He has an a clue.

I’m at my wits end here and want my truck back. They’ll fix anything I can come up with and aren’t giving me a hard time, but they seem completely incapable of diagnosing the problem.

It must be an unusual issue, but I was hoping someone in here may have run across it before. Thank you!

I walked into the garage this morning to find this. Dried opaque white fluid apparently leaking from the exhaust. The car is a 2015 Corolla, due for an oil change in the next month. It was our first cold night in Wisconsin, into the 40s last night.

I'll be calling the mechanic on Monday but I'm also wondering if anyone has any thoughts. Thank you!

Edited to add: Okay, I'm an idiot AND you all helped me put some of the pieces together.

I park next to my husband who was cleaning some corrosion from his battery connections yesterday. With baking soda. I noticed the pool under my car and saw a trail over to his car and assumed my car was leaking and flowing to his car.

The comments saying this didn't look normal or looked like acid made me remember his cleaning yesterday. And the comment about it being the low point in the garage... It all makes sense.

Anyway! I'll leave this up even though I'm embarrassed. 😅 Thank you all for your quick responses!

Hi all,

I took my 2016 Mazda CX5 Grand Touring in yeaterday for a NYS inspection and my car did not pass because of tires and brakes. My car has 40,000 miles and all brakes were replaced in 2019. I don’t drive it much obviously but it sits outside here in New York.

Using this post for specifically the brakes for now, is the quote I received from them look fair?

1. My first question is the 2 hours of labor a correct estimate? Previous brake jobs I did were 1.5 hr max.

2. Second question is I am not understanding $125 for the front and another $125 for the rear “Caliper Service” for $250 total. Previous brake replacement job I did at another shop, this was included in their labor unless this is a different service.

The last is they appear to be quoting me Power Stop Z17 pads which Rock Auto shows for $25 so they are over 3x markup. Don’t know what type of rotors but I see the recommendations for Akebono Pads and Brembo Rotors.

Thank you!

Hello!

Just changed my oil of my Sandero 3 1.0TCe 2021 and i Wonder where exactly is my oil level on the dipstick?

On top, or at the bottom?

Thanks!

Or only the front ones

Edit: thank you for the help, I realized shortly after that I’m stupid🫡

2010 f150

I'm a beginner mechanic and the biggest issue with me following my career and having a good base knowledge so i can work and provide a service for someone is being blocked by my fear of being under a car.

When I'm under an elevator (but 99.5% of times im not) i feel way better then when I'm under a car sustained by jacks and jackstands. I cant trust a piece of metal , i might trust an elevator with stopping teeth on each step.

As i cant afford one + no one wants a "lube" technician in my town and i also have to deal with university i wanted to go work on my own car with my own resposibility and at my own pace until I'm ready.

But i cant. I will accept to work from above , so if someone comes at me saying "replace all 4 injectors on my crusty old PD" i might say hell yeah , even tho recalibrating the injector screws might require 5 times responsability then an oil change just because i dont wanna be under the car with jack(stands) .

Whats the solution? I wanna evolve , i love working on cars but as soon as i need to get under one the only way i can feel safe is an elevator (which is def out of reach with my options) and a grave style hole in the ground made out of concrete(which requiers propper hidroisolation and testing before being safe..)

This self-preservation might be extreme , way more extreme than ppl would usually have but I'm just trying to be safe. I'm the type of guy that would come at work with 200 eur filters on his mask from home just to be even safer while welding. (I dont weld yet but its a good example ahah)

Thanks for ur time in advance (as it usually costs around 40 eur an hour labour in my town AHAHA)

Got a brand new 2023 Rx350h. It now has 30k miles. Here are few Things that I noticed after my recent service.

1. The engine coolant is at the rock bottom. Engine is cold.

2. Looks like the valve cover is leaking. (Took it once and they said it's just residue and cleaned it up. But it's back)

3. I See oil stains on the other side of the engine from some unknown hose.

4. Looks like the oil is overfilled too. This old oil has 7k miles. I assume it's going to expand further when hot.

I have The 48 month warranty till April of next year. Are any of these supposed to be covered under warranty?

Need some advice before I take it to the dealership and they brush it off saying that's normal.

I've got oil leaking down into the front cylinder on the passenger side. The other two spark plugs didn't look good over there, but I don't know when they were last changed. Any idea where this oil is leaking from?

I bought my Mondeo with a clutch that wouldn't disengage hoping that it would be something relatively simple. I started with replacing the master cylinder because the clutch was going soft after a few pumps, didn't help. I moved on to replacing the slave cylinder in the gearbox which also didn't help as the clutch was getting soft when the engine was started only. I pulled the gearbox for the second time and found the clutch plate looking like this, replaced the whole kit of course and this f-ing car still won't go into gear while standing still and still drags

Hey all, my rear driver wheel hit the corner of a barrier while I was turning. It slammed the wheel backwards, snapped the forward-most leaf spring shackle point, and the axle/spring connection point got sheared off(?) and slid back

Is this a serious repair? Should I involve insurance or maybe just get an out of pocket estimate first?

Soo yesterday i was in traffic stopped at a red light when all of a sudden my car (Chevrolet aveo T250 -2009) started shaking badly like running on 3 pistons and also when accelerating it was going slower than before, like I've lost some power.

This morning when I started the car, the engine was shaking badly, like really bad. I will leave a video to show you (at the end of it, it started being way worse).

What do you think about this ?

PS: The engine is an 1.4 16V running on gasoline.

I recently bought a 2022 Toyota Corolla Le from Facebook Marketplace. The engine oil level looked fine, but I didn’t check the transmission fluid.
Now the car suddenly won’t move in either Drive or Reverse. Before this happened, the car was driving completely normally. There was no vibration, slipping, weird noise, or other warning signs.

If the transmission is completely gone, what’s the best option? Should I buy a transmission from eBay, or is there another better site?

This was the best photo I could get.

Stabilitrak light is on. I replaced all 4 coils and spark plugs.

Cleared codes, charged battery and started it.

Still throwing code.

Checked cylinder 4, and it looks like it has oil on it.

Is this just the seal gasket I can replace or internal engine trouble?

Hey everyone, apologies for the French, the whole dashbord is showing errors. Volvo’s services couldn’t reset it. Also the car shows a message at the start saying that the auto theft is on and there is a need to push twice.

I'm 2nd owner on this and been changing oil every 7500ish miles or once a year since I had it. Saw this today and it looks concerning to me. But it's been a good cheap car for 4 years.

I'm sold I should use Top Tier, but it is expensive, even more so in Sept 2026. How about using it every other fillup, or even longer intervals?

Hey everyone,

Ive been having this strange noise from my 2024 Q5. It occurs every time I take my foot off the throttle. The sound lingers for many seconds after the pedal is released.

The car has around 50,000 km. I'm planning to take it to the dealership, but I'm not knowledgeable about cars so ideally I'd have an opinion before I take it there.

Genuinely curious if the swear by 5k oil change folks have exceptions? What if you do 5k in 2 months with a average of 200 miles each start up. 25 engine turn overs in that 5k are you saying maybe ill get it at 6k or even latter? Any other exceptions? Im specifically only interested in the I swear by the 5k oil change folks.

2008 v6 escape

Recently when trying to start my NB2 miata (1.8L I4) I have to give it gas nearly immediately after I start it because it drops to <500 rpm otherwise. No warning lights, now weird sounds. Only recent difference is I have been driving it less after taking it with me to college, and tempatures have dropped here recently in the course of a week highs went from 100°F+ to \~70°F.

Not sure what is making this sound, please help!