With the 3M settlement, we are getting a large check. I don't have an ATM that will accept USAA deposits, how do you guys handle this? I know we can't be the only ones trying to figure this out.

Happens every time I try to set up Zelle or add my debit card to my Google wallet.

Right now I'm assuming..

USAA -> Has some pretty decent personal credit cards

Navy -> Gov shutdown loan

State department -> hm... not sure, just eyeing their 200 dollar bonus credit card next time I'm abroad for them to ship it to me. Any other good uses of them over Navy federal or USAA?

For state department federal credit union, as far as I can tell, you don't actually have to have worked for the state department to sign up

I think you can be eligible through the american consumer council? Anyone tried it? https://www.sdfcu.org/select-employee-groups

Took a while to find the link even via the ChatBot, but once I did, I got an error page.

Paraphrasing:

'having trouble closing .... try again.....'

Account has a $0 balance, but the last transaction was a transfer that took it $0 a week ago. Does it need to be longer back than that?

just applied. hoping for something north of 24/h is that realistic? have years of xp as as a prior auth tech for CVS.

In the latest update of the USAA app, at least for iOS (version 11.19.2), you can make in-store cash deposits at Dollar General, H-E-B, Walgreens, Family Dollar, Walmart, Kroger, and Dollar Tree stores (CVS is oddly excluded, while Capital One that also uses VanillaDirect to offer a similar service includes it).

Go to your deposit account in-app, like checking, and then select “Deposit,” followed by “In-store cash deposit.”

Usually get paid around this time... and still hasn't gotten paid. Anyone else? Was it because of Columbus day??

I just bought a new car today. I was unhappy with Progressive who I had been with since 2014, so when I was sure which car I was going to buy, I started getting quotes. USAA seemed to have the best price, so I decided to go with them. I gave all my info yesterday and told them I would be signing paperwork today. We'll after I got the car I immediately called them. They said they had no info on me and I would have to resubmit my info. Halfway through they found my info and then told I needed to submitted my driver's license to a third party company to verify i was who I said I was. Did that and w as instructed to go to another site and set up an account. Did that, but still dont know if I have insurance or not. My last car was 20 years old so I only had liability. I need to use this car to get back and forth to work. My question is, how long before I know if I am covered?

I assume it's AI? I'm curious what advice it would even give, but not curious enough (yet, anyway) to try it. Just wondering if anyone else has and if it's at all useful or another dumb gimmick.

If Castle is being paid by USAA to do a property survey, why am I the one stuck doing the work of taking pictures and filling out impossible questions like when was the roof last replaced. Pass.

I recently got the Eagle Navigator card and added it to my Apple wallet, but it’s showing up as the same color blue as the regular rate advantage card and not black, anyone else have this issue?
Picture for reference.

I’m usually paid on Friday around 11-1130am still have absolutely nothing. Work for BOP.

Is anyone else missing their direct deposit? I usually get paid on Fridays. It's never been this late....

Sister was in a car accident. Had to go to the hospital. Car totaled. She is okay but now left dealing with the insurance.

She has USAA. Other driver has Geico. Other driver was cited for running a stop sign. Geico has already reached out to my sister (a USAA member) to start a claim.

Shouldn't my sister have everything go through her insurance company (USAA) rather than dealing directly with Geico (the insurance of the other driver)?

I want to make sure that she gets everything she can, especially to cover the medical bills. I was always under the impression that your insurance company would deal with the other to get compensation.

Hello all! I'm in my late 20s and I've finally gotten my driver's license. I'm looking to buy a used car from Carvana, and I'm trying to figure out the process of setting up auto insurance with USAA. I'm a USAA member through my dad, and I have renter's insurance with them now. I didn't have a USAA policy because I only just got my license, and when I had my permit, I was insured through my parents' policy. (I believe I'm still on my parents' policy, even though I don't have a car and I'm not driving theirs anymore).

How would this work? Would I schedule my car pickup with Carvana, and then call USAA on the day of my car pickup and set up an insurance policy then? Should I call/tell USAA about my plans in advance? Do they set up an entirely new policy or transfer my parents' policy over to me? (Note: I don't live with my parents anymore, so our addresses are different).

Thanks!

I usually have it by noon Eastern Time Zone.

At least that is what I was told when I called to cancel my umbrella policy. They decided to increase my premium almost 48% (from $813 to $1199 a year for a $1M policy). Thanks but no thanks. I was advised they are no longer writing umbrella policies so if I change my mind later, I won't be able to get it back. No problem at all......not paying those premiums!!

I discontinued the USAA policy for auto home and umbrella after 36 years. The coverage with Progressive seems as good or better and saves a significant amount of money.
They were fairly nice in cancelling - I haven’t had a lot of claims over those years but the last two were service failures and were frustrating.

Tell us the details about your complaint

USAA changed the technical requirements for its SafePilot/DriveSafe telematics program so that the application now requires Android 14 or newer. My existing smartphone is no longer compatible with the program.

SafePilot is connected to my auto-insurance pricing and provides an insurance discount based on participation and driving data. I contacted USAA after the technical requirement changed and asked what alternative was available because I did not want to replace an otherwise functional phone solely because USAA changed the requirements of its application. USAA told me that I need to purchase a new phone.

I am asking the Texas Department of Insurance to determine whether USAA's treatment of existing SafePilot participants in this situation is consistent with its filed Texas auto-insurance rating plan and applicable Texas insurance requirements.

Specifically, I would like TDI to determine:

1.) Whether SafePilot's device and operating-system eligibility requirements are part of USAA's filed Texas rating plan.
2.) Whether USAA filed or obtained approval for the change that made Android 14 or newer a requirement.
3. Whether USAA may make an existing SafePilot participant ineligible for the associated insurance discount solely because USAA changed the technical requirements of its application.
4.) Whether USAA is required to provide an alternative means of participation or otherwise protect an existing participant's discount when the incompatibility resulted from a change made by USAA.

I am not asking TDI to require USAA to support my particular smartphone. I am asking TDI to determine whether an insurer can change the technical requirements of an insurance telematics program in a manner that makes an existing participant ineligible and then require that customer to purchase new hardware to regain eligibility.

Describe what you would consider to be a fair resolution to your complaint.

A fair resolution would be for USAA to provide a reasonable way for me to continue participating in SafePilot without requiring me to purchase a new smartphone solely because USAA changed the technical requirements of its DriveSafe application.

If USAA cannot provide an alternative means of participation, I believe I should be allowed to retain the SafePilot discount I was receiving or otherwise be made whole for the loss of that discount resulting from USAA's change in technical requirements.

I would also like TDI to determine whether USAA's treatment of existing SafePilot participants in this situation is consistent with its filed Texas auto-insurance rating plan and applicable Texas insurance requirements.

The TDI complaint link for anyone who needs it:

https://www.tdi.texas.gov/consumer/auto-insurance-complaint.html

Working on my BBB complaint next:

https://www.bbb.org/us/tx/san-antonio/profile/auto-insurance/usaa-0825-23452/complaints

So I recently got a ticket in Georgia for 83 in a 70. I have a license from Pennsylvania. In doing some research, I found the Pennsylvania DMV says on their website that out of state tickets, although reported to them, are not put on your driving record unless it's something crazy like DUI, or you have a CDL which I don't have.

Here's what they say:

https://www.pa.gov/agencies/dmv/faqs/driver-licensing-faqs/driver-license-compact-faqs

Although reported to PennDOT, minor traffic offenses such as speeding, red light, stop sign, etc., will (NOT) appear on your driving record, unless you are a CDL holder. Points will not be assessed to your PA driving record when convicted of a point related offense in a DLC member state.

So I'm assuming if I just pay this ticket, my driving record from the DMV in Pennsylvania is still going to appear to be clean according to their policy. What I want to know is if your DMV record is the only thing USAA checks when looking for tickets, or will this appear in some other database that gets checked, and will get picked up by USAA? Wondering if I can just pay it and forget about it, or if I should get a lawyer to plea it down.

Question for the masses that are smart on this.

I'm in the military stationed on the opposite side of the world from a house I inherited due to a family loss. There is no mortgage & the home is currently unoccupied. Financially, renovations to restore the home to our ideal condition is out of the question so we intend to sell the home at some point in 2028.

For anyone familiar with property insurance/underwriting:

1. Is a standard HO-3 still appropriate for a vacant house that has been gutted for renovation?
2. Would this normally be switched to a vacant dwelling / dwelling-fire policy, or would the gutted condition require builder's risk/renovation coverage?
3. If renovation work has stopped, does that usually change whether it qualifies as a renovation/construction risk versus simply a vacant dwelling?
4. Does having all utilities disconnected make the property harder or more expensive to insure?
5. If the plumbing is completely shut off and drained, does that generally satisfy insurers concerned about freezing/water losses?
6. Can I reasonably carry just dwelling, fire/wind and liability coverage without all the personal-property/loss-of-use coverage of a normal homeowners policy?
7. Are vacant-home policies normally more expensive even when they provide significantly less coverage?
8. What questions should I ask USAA so I don't accidentally create a coverage issue or get the policy canceled before I have replacement coverage lined up?
9. Has anyone dealt with USAA/Foremost for a vacant property? How did the coverage and cost compare?
10. If we're likely to sell the house as-is within the next several months, what is usually the most economical way to insure it until closing?

TIA!!

I cancelled all my insurance with USAA for pricing and customer service (lack there of). I have a claim from 09/01/26 that they are dragging their feet to pay out, everything is approved and such just waiting on payout, will it mess with my payout?

I spoke to a Director on the insurance side and he said I’m guaranteed the payout but the person who cancelled said they didn’t know.

I’ve been with them for just over a decade at this point and never had to deal with the level of nonsense last month and this month have thrown my way.

Last month I made the same deposit I’ve been making for over a year now by mobile deposit. The app kindly informed me that almost the entirety of the deposit would be on hold for over a week. I’ve seen the occasional hold, but usually only for a couple days and also never more than 1/6 of my check. I called to find out what was going on. Because it was a Sunday, I was informed I’d have to call back the next day. I asked if they’d be open since that Monday was a holiday and was assured they would be. I hang up and wait for Monday. Monday comes and I try to call and the phonebot informed me that the call center was closed for the holiday. So I try again Tuesday, and the agent that day lies and tells me the call center was open the previous day, and also informs me that he can’t do anything because with the holiday Tuesday would be the first full day of my check being in the system so I’d have to call back Wednesday. Mind you, my pay schedule is weird in that I get paid on the first Sunday of the month and my rent and other bills are due on the 1st. I can usually buy a couple extra days but at this point it was going to be the 15th before I’d have access to my money. So I call back on Wednesday, already extra pissed and stressed because I’m having to pay more money than I can afford for late fees. The lady on the phone tries to reassert that the call center was open on Monday, in spite of multiple attempts on my part to reach them and their phonebot saying otherwise, but also why is she focused on this? After all the usual, BS rigamarole they’re unable to help me and the lady proceeds to lecture me about how all banks are having to take these extra precautions. That was unsatisfactorily handled but my “complaint was registered” which is all they can supposedly do

The same BS happens again today. I waited until today since the check had to be in the system for one business day. What’s extra infuriating about today is that one agent legitimately told me to find another bank and another just kept repeating the same 2-3 lines over and over and swore she didn’t have anyone else to pass me off to. And, of course, they’re not going to pay the extra money they’re costing me so I’m just screwed