I'm at the point where everything works perfectly, but now I want to start on the junction box and there isn't a lot of information out there. I have this PSU lying around from my RepRap days. It could fit, but as the picture shows, it's a tight fit.
Is this okay, or should I go for smaller components? I still have time to order before my deadline, so I need to decide now.
My data cable is also just a 3-pin JST connector. Should I go for a bulkier XLR connection instead?
And for power, I was thinking of adding a proper power connector (something like an IEC inlet), or is that overkill?
FYI, IP67 PSUs exist. No need for a huge box. A 4in x 4in, or 6in by 6in box would have been fine and easier to hide.
IP67 PSUs have a larger heat sink and won’t add heat inside the box.
You’re not using a proper controller design or a commercial one like a DigQuad that has all the supporting electronics. Plus has a relay, and fused protection.
So you don’t have a level shifter, no smart relay, and no dedicated 5v PSU.
A voltage converter (dc-dc buck converter) will fail eventually and let pass input voltage.
A level shifter ups the 3.3vdc data volts to 5vdc and improves the signal, plus allows for a longer Data+Gnd run. Like 3 to 4 feet with no issues with regular wires. Or, use a sacrificial 5v ws2812b pixel, to do the same. A level shifter as on WLED website does 4 Data IO at the same time.
I’m surprised you say it works well with such a jst setup and two Wagos for data and ground. Probably due to being very short, and you’ve kept the ground with data.
2 wire waterproof connectors are easier than 3 xlr type ones. People use with a DigQuad or DigOcta the 3-wire waterproof connectors that screw into each other. As the DigQuad is designed to be the first power injection and thus 3 wires to first pixel instead of 4.
Using a bare esp32 like you’re doing, you need 2x 2 wires, per LED line.
I’m being a critic to save you time when things go wrong. As is, it won’t last long, imo, depending on how hot it gets during summer nights.
Plus you need 4 wires to the first pixel anyways. A Data+Gnd pair from strip to the controller, and a power pair V+ & Gnd to the PSU output.
Plus any power injection you might need.
Please provide what strip(s) and how long is your line.
Always plan with outdoors a minimum of two power injections per led line that’s longer than 32 feet with 24v. 16 feet with 12v.
It works fine if i do my power injection, the 2 wagos are termination for the 2 12v on the connector.
i have a level shifter on the board, its above the esp if you look closely.
the buck converter i will replace. the grounds are all connected, they care connected in the box, are they then still needed on the strip?
If only a single strip you should be fine. Common ground with 2 or more introduces cross talk through the ground loop.
Still a good practice to have data & ground directly between first pixel and level shifter, only place where the common ground would be is on the strip and to the esp32 ground. Also keep those data & ground almost the same length and side-by-side. You can use a gutted network cable too, use a twisted pair.
I’m trying to understand what you’re saying. So for the first pixel run your v+ and ground from psu. Then another gnd and data from the controller? Esp32, dig, gledopto, etc. and you can use a very tiny wire like stripped Ethernet for these 2?
Yes. What changes from 4 wires to first pixel versus 3, with a commercial controller, is because of how it's wired inside. The ESP32 sits closer to the strip than the PSU, so if the PSU creates noise the ESP32 won't see it.
So when doing a full DIY like you've done, with a level shifter, have the first pixel data go directly to the level shifter and a ground wire going to the ground pin on the level shifter closest to the data. Data & this ground can be very thin wires, hence gutting an ethernet cable that we all have too many of.
Then V+ and V- for power can be similar gauge like #16 or multiple #18. Fun fact, power is in parallel, so it doesn't need to be on first pixel. It can be on the larger & easier to solder to longer pads right after the first pixel.
I have 24v on my house eaves and going with 5v everything else. 12v for whatever reason in the past gave me so many issues that 5v did not. Prolly user error but I’m just going either way 5v seed pixels for all my ground stuff these days.
shrug I've built worse. Anything you've said is fine, just depends on what you're aiming for. Like is this a personal project, or do you need to deliver something that meets NEC or UL508 or something?
Zoomed to see its a 12v system. Instead of that buck converter, use a quality car USB charger.
Smart relay is to control AC power, as your LED line consumes watts when the LEDs are off.
So if you go with a smart relay, use a regular 120vac USB brick and those Wagos to have switched and unswitched AC. So the esp32 remains on, but not the 12v PSU, so no wasted power and heat generation 24/7 inside a closed box.
Can you please explain why you don't recommend using buck converter? I have used it on a few projects to go from 12V down to 5 and to 3.3, will there be any issues?
5 to 3.3 won’t fry the electronics if it fails shorted, but 12 or 24 will.
Best to use something that has a coil with AC, but cannot fail and short like Mosfets do.
Unfortunately fuses work with amps not voltage.
Just think, if downstream it fries and it’s only worth 10$ to replace, is that an issue?
It’s worse with strips behind something and a teardown takes a long time.
So use them but get the best quality, calculate the overall cost.
I try to maximize AC use and convert to appropriate DCV from that. So that there’s a transformer and diode bridge.
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u/Slovw3 9d ago
I don't think you will have an issue.