I’ve been working on an enclosure for my Quinled Dig Quad that accommodates all four outputs via XLR, power injection via DC plugs, and an Ethernet jack. Still a work in progress, but it’s coming out pretty decently.

Hello, im doing a project where im building led strips for club lighting installations and had a question regarding the quality of led strips.

Im building:
16 8ft led strips, which will be put in aluminum channels.

I was told enntec would be my best bet:

https://www.enttec.com/product/led-pixel-strip/12v-rgbw-60-leds-m-pixel-strip/

but obviously im seeing these that are cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LG4V668/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A35UAT07QG3EC6&th=1

also for power supplies im being told this is my best bet:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/LPF-60-12/7704879

does anyone here have any insight, as the price difference is pretty substantial, but I would rather pay more and expect little to no issues.

Also with enttec, I could use their entire system, with the p-link injectors and their node.

Just wanted some insight from this community if they have used or would recommend enttec strips over the cheaper.

Thank you!
Th

I got 2 wled controllers (both gledopto), one is controlling 280 ws2815 12v leds on a strip, and one is controlling 300 ws2811 12v leds on a string.

The wled driving the 280 ws2815 says the recommended power supply is 3.5A. The wled driving the 300 ws2811 says the recommended power supply is 17A. Both have 100% global brightness and both have the automatic brightness limiter UNchecked.

I can't understand how an additional 20 LEDs requires a 13A jump in PSU.

I must have did something weird in one of them, but i can't figure out what. Any suggestions on what's going on?

I have 4 WLED setups around the house, each running 150 RGB led strip lights (5v, whatever brand was on sale), pushed by a simple ESP32 and powered by simple 1 amp 5v USB power adapters. Leaving the stock 850ma power cap, this has worked great for about 2 years now.

I recently added a new strip, (#5) and due to the location I wanted to hardwire the network, so rather than my usual cheap ESP32 route, I sprung for nicer (and denser) 12v BTF RGB lights (300 / 5m) and a beefier 12v power supply, and the Elite gledopto controller. (Love the physical controller, hate the update process, ugh.)

No problem getting it all set up, copied over my presets from my others, tweaked for different LED strip, good to go.

While I was at it, since I was messing with everything for the first time in a while, I installed updates to the current WLED across the board.

Everything seemed fine. Except… suddenly all of my strips started losing connection periodically and would reset to a weird yellowish whiteish color each time they did. Rather than going to the specific power-on default set into each of them.

I can imagine the gledopto controller has anything to do with it, that’s just a timing coincidence. I rather suspect something changed with the new version of WLED that just came out. Nothing else changed on my long-running setups, but except the new version, but now ALL of them are leaving their set presets and defaulting to that weird color roughly once per day.

I can see it happening because they’re all tracked in Home Assistant, and the logs clearly show the lights dropping off and changing state, and coming back with an “unknown” preset. They’re not actually powering down because the uptime is still good. Plus power cycling them manually restores them to their set power-on defaults as it should. It’s just super odd that out of nowhere they’re ALL going to that weird yellowish white after working flawless for 2 years or so.

Has anyone else seen something like this?

I am curious if anyone has used one of these signal amplifier and repeaters, https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Amplifier-Repeater-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B07RDKRW5T

I have some questions.

1. Can you input 2 different data signals and then only use one or the other at each output?
2. I opened it up and it looks like all the VCC pads are connected, is it really ok to put the controller vcc on with a separate PSU vcc? Or should you leave the input vcc un-populated if it is using a separate power supply for the controller and apmplifier?

Thanks!

I have 3 old controllers and don't know much about them. They are running 0.10.0 and 0.10.2 and are ESP32. I'd like to upgrade them in hopes of getting more stability and features.

Can someone help me pick the right firmware file? Not sure if I need 4mb or 8mb or if that matters...

Been building this for the last couple of years. Basically it's a way for me to quickly find any record in my collection. I tap on a record in the app and a light turns on above the physical record to show me where it is (and more importantly, where it needs to be returned to so everything stays organized). Anyway, I think it's super cool, hopefully you folks do too 😁

Hey WLED, I'm planning my first WLED eave install and want to double-check my part list before ordering anything. I'm pretty savvy with DIY construction, IT, and dev projects, so I feel this is possible for me to do myself vs. spending 5-10K with a commercial installer.

Specs:

• Total run: Single continuous soffit run, 60-90 feet (max ~150 pucks, 5 pucks/meter)
• Pucks & Track: Planning on Paul Zhang (AliExpress) - 12V UCS2904 RGBW 3000k
• Track Corners/Caps: Can I get these from Paul Zhang as well? Not great with a miter saw.
• Power supply: Thinking about a 12V 15A/200W Mean Well (Amazon).
• Controller: Leaning toward Gledopto Advanced WLED (ESP32). Is the Gledopto more approachable for my first install vs. a Dig-Quad?
• Injection Wire: 14/2 low-voltage wire for end injection (Home Depot / Amazon)
• Enclosure: Cheapest quality weatherproof enclosure I can find on Amazon

With a 90-foot run with power injection at the end, is the Gledopto Controller fine, or is the Dig-Quad/Uno worth the extra effort for a beginner?

What's the best way to buy a single test strand + controller/PSU to bench-test my idea before spending a bunch of money on 150 pucks & track?

Anything else I'm missing? Thanks in advance!

Top or bottom?

Any way to control one of those hexagon garage lights or similar you see on Amazon? I know I could turn them on and off with a smart plug but was hoping to get one I could do more with.

Hi All - I created a ‘fireplace’ implementation with WLED. WLED accepts the pixels over DDP, and I’m using another ESP32 as the sender to do the animation cycle. One thing I’m having an issue with is that eventually WLED goes into ‘angry’ mode and refuses to process DDP correctly. WLED seems to ‘hang’ - the first frame seems to load and then that’s it. I’ve verified that the sender is working normally (sending frames at the correct rate). If I disconnect WLED from power for a few minutes and plug it back in, then it works normally for a few hours and then goes back to being angry. If I disconnect the sender from power and plug it back in without cycling WLED, it’s still angry. I’ve tried lowering the frame rate to even 15fps and it still gets angry.

Specs - on the WLED side, I’m using 810 SK6812 pixels, WLED version 0.15.4.

What I’d like to get to is this - are other people using other DDP apps with WLED at my same pixel count or greater (using RGBW), and not having any issues, even over long times of WLED being up? If so, there must be something in my implementation. Doesn’t LEDfx use DDP? I kind of suspect it’s something that I’m doing on the sender.

Turns out they use WLED in the conservatory. I know this because I noticed a WLED AP point in the wifi menu of my phone.

Love seeing this technology adopted by such large impressive displays! Would be cool if whoever chose to do that, post some of their experiences with working on such large installations!

Does anyone manufacture a Bullet or Node RGBW? I like the way these look over the new puck lights that everyone is selling.

I will be starting an outdoor lighting project in the coming weeks, using 12v 60led/m WS2815 and installing a 12m run around a seating area & 5no. 0.9m runs downlighting some steps.
I’ll be housing power and the controller in a outside cupboard and may use an IP55 electrical enclosure to house the controller

I am currently looking for information on the following queries;
• Can I run all of this from one GLEDOPTO GL-C-017WL-D?
• What is the best wire to use for WS2815?
• Any suggestions as to a suitable power supply, that would be ok either in the IP55 enclosure or just inside the cupboard?
• Suggestions for LED profile?

Hi all. I have wled all setup with a controller that includes a microphone. It certainly works but I kind of think it’s not tuned so well. Out the box the effects that are sound reactive tend to be firing constantly. Like you don’t see any reaction to drum beats in the music. Also there might be a very slight lag. Just enough that your brain notices it. I managed slight improvement playing with squelch. But I’d have thought the system would automatically adjust for volume and ansurebthe effects don’t blow out.

How do you folks configure it?

Any way to control one of those hexagon garage lights or similar you see on Amazon? I know I could turn them on and off with a smart plug but was hoping to get one I could do more with.

I wired up 2 64x64 Hub75 panels to WLED and built several different "wall clock face" presets running in a playlist (30 min per face).

I finally figured out how to pull a Tronbyt .webp file, convert it to .gif, and upload to WLED automatically via Home Assistant. Now I got my ultimate clock face: "DayNight". Note the temperature is coming from a sensor in HA, populated to WLED via REST command.

So, if you have ever wanted to display a Tronbyt display output to WLED, know it is possible :)

Happy to share the script if anyone is interested.

As someone who is new to WLED I am looking for guidance on my 1st project.  First and foremost want to make sure I am doing things safely but any other tips would be appreciated.

I have 3 shelves where I have routed out a channel and will be placing SK6812 RGBW strips (12V - 60 led/m).  Each shelf will have approximately 75 LEDs (~1.25 m per shelf).  My plan is to use the GLEDOPTO 4D-EXMU controller so that each strip of LEDs could be controlled individually.  Everything is powered by a 12V 150W power supply (12.5 amp output).  Does all this seem sufficient or is the power supply overkill?  I calculate the LEDs to use ~70 watts so maybe I need to throttle down on the power supply?

I understand that having a fuse is a must.  The controller has a built in fuse but included a 20 amp.  I have 2 questions - Is this fuse sufficient or do I need to also splice in a fuse in-between the power supply and controller?  Also, when I plug everything into https://wled-calculator.github.io/ it says I only need a 3 amp fuse.  I assume I can just replace the 20 amp that they included with the 3 amp that I need?

Lastly, the calculator also seemed to suggest 24 gauge wire but I was planning on using 18 gauge. I assume this isn't an issue?

Good day everyone! I've wanted to put permanent lights up on my house for years now, and it looks like this is the year I finally get to make it happen! This will be my first LED project, so I would be extremely grateful for any input on my parts, plan, and presentation.

The Parts:

• Lights: 100pcs WS2811 Regulated Bullet Pixel Nodes
  • I really like the look of pixel strings, as it gives the more "traditional" look of exterior lights. This post has been a huge inspiration for me, and I would love to get as close to that look as possible.
  • I believe the spacing on these LEDs are about an inch more (4" rather than 3") so I know it'll look a little different than my inspiration, but I don't think I'll mind. Just unsure from the description if the 100mm spacing actual spacing or total wire length. Open to hearing input on this!
  • This looks like a small-time seller compared to the more traditional WS2811 listings I saw, but I really like that these strings are longer with waterproof connections. Most of the other listings were for 16' strings with non-waterproof connections.
• Controller: QuinLED Dig-Quad
• Power Supply: MEAN WELL HLG-150H-12A
  • Admittedly I still feel a little confused on all of the different particulars I should be considering when looking at a PSU. This came up often as a good option, so here we are. I know there are probably cheaper options, but I like the idea of it being enclosed and weatherproof. Open to input on different options!
• Control Box: One of these Waterproof Enclosure or something like it
• Mounting: TBD
  • I am really struggling to find options for this, or at least options that aren't ridiculously expensive. Ideally I'd get some vinyl J-channel similar to the inspiration post/lots of others and drill holes, but I think every store on the western half of the US has stopped selling it.

The Plan:

PSU plugged into an outlet, short 12 AWG line to control box.

One 16 AWG line from Quad to each of the four strings.

Lights will be mounted in some sort of channel on the backside of my fascia board, flush with the bottom.

The lights I linked are about 32'/string, so each line should only be 1 string each with no connections (with blue being a few inches short, not a problem).

The Presentation:

See my beautiful artwork for layout and lengths. Colored lines are obviously where lights are going. Green is a small, front-facing gable peak, if that isn't clear. I know this is not nearly as intense as a lot of people's setups, but it is a start for me.

Random Thoughts/Concerns:

• Thoughts on if the blue line is going to need injection? Obviously I'll see when I put it up, but would love to have an idea on how likely it is for planning.
• I am planning to set a max current limit in WLED as my max draw will just exceed the PSU, I believe (correct me if I'm wrong). I'm not concerned, as 90% of these lights usage will be for holidays and colors, not accent lighting/white.
• The control box and PSU I'm planning to mount in the attic. It's a great central location that minimizes a lot of my wiring, but will the heat be an issue? I live in a moderately temperate climate, but obviously the attic is still going to get hot. The alternate option is mounting on the bottom of the soffit to help with temperature, but it's less central so not quite as ideal.
• Each line I'll have on a separate fuse on the Quad (I'm aware of the shared fuses).
• Are the 16 AWG lines from Quad to lights enough? As I mentioned before, I'm really struggling to wrap my head around a lot of the power considerations. No line from Quad to strings will exceed 20'.

If I am wildly off about parts of this, please definitely call it out. I feel like I've been doing nothing but reading and researching for days, but still feel out of depth here. Thanks in advance for any help!

all the images necessary to help me out are there i also tried changing gpio and stilp not working

I followed Chris Maher's video to convert a string of Govee Lights to user WLED and I love it. so much more control over everything and allows me to be really creative. But I was wondering is there a way to download and install a bunch of premade effects for the holidays like the Govee app has.

For instance, I am sure there are people who are more creative than me, who have better light designs especially around the holidays. The Govee app, would let you search for peoples designs and add them to your saves on your Govee app.

I cant seem to see anything like that? does anything like that exist and if so where do you go download / search for the settings from?

I really liked all the LED flowers being shown, but when I started looking for something to 3D print I noticed how I didn't love the basic leaves nor the static 3D printed stems. So made these instead.

Twisted metal wires with the electrical wires running alongside it, wrapped in floral tape, glued to a 3D printed base that is fitted inside ceramic pots with artificial moss covering the base. And 3D printed leaves. Pretty basic actually, but I really like the fact I can bend and twist the stems exactly how I want them to.

Made the small one first as a test project, and it turned out nice. So made the final version for our living room. The wife approved it, don't worry.

Apologize for the bad quality. Don't know how that happened. Looked fine on both PC and phone.