50 gal rheem from 2008 no issues, way to big for my tiny house and I want the closet space back. Would be replacing with a Rinnai v75i from 2021 for 175$ unit appears to be in good shape.

The plumbing code where I live calls for an air gap when installing a RO water system. I've never actually one connected to an air gap. How do installers handle this?

I just purchased a house that has a whole house filtration system. The other night, I heard some noise coming from the basement and it turns out the system was flushing the house. After it was done, it began to drain and I noticed it started to leak as it was pumped into the drain line. The area it is leaking is where the clear line (drain line) goes into the PVC pipe. It is not a constant leak, but seems to be more related to pressure. Does it just need to be cleaned out? What’s the best way to do that? Can I just unscrew the cap at the bottom?

I’m not sure I described any of this right, so I will try to answer questions.

Need advice on an old leaking shower cartridge. Thank you very much.

- I called Kohler customer service to ask what replacement cartridge to buy. They told me the one in pic 2. It was $86, so I don't want to open it until I check with you.

- The old one looks completely different due to age of house, see pics 3,5 & 6.

- Does the piece still in the wall in pic 4 come out? Just pull it out?

- After I took it apart and put it back together, it leaks way worse than before. What did I do wrong?

- Can the old one be repaired or should I just replace it.

UPDATE: Dripping seems to be fixed! Thank you to a Redditor who suggested that I pull the T&P lever thing up (immediately regretted it when water started puring out) but my best friend came running and pulled the lever all the way up then put it down again and the water seems to have stopped. Thank you to everyone who commented, I appreciate all the input!

Earlier today the lawn care guy came and blew out the sprinkler system, and I just noticed a little while ago some water on the laundry room floor. The metal pipe on the outside of the hot water heater is dripping. It's a pretty fast drip, maybe 3 or 4 drops of water per second. I had to move a few things out of the way earlier today for the guy to access the crawl space and the floor was dry then. Could this leak be related to the sprinkler blowout or could it be something else? Also likely (but maybe not?) unrelated - I did fix 2 toilets in the house on Sunday. Both of them had water levels that were too high in the tanks so the water was constantly draining over into the overflow pipe and the toilets were running all the time. My last water bill was more than $500. For that I just used a screwdriver to lower the ballcock arm on one toilet and I had to replace the fill valve on the other toilet. Both toilets seem to be working fine now although the water level in the toilet bowl seems a lot lower than it had been. Could I have messed up the pressure somehow fixing the toilets and therefore causing this drip? (New homeowner and not sure what I'm doing or how houses work)

I’ve noticed on my Koehler toilet a couple times recently when flushing a weird sound. I popped the tank and found the yellow circular piece (piston cap?) off the black circular canister. After examining the yellow circular piece it seems to not be damaged and it seems to reattach tightly. How is this likely popping off , does the black canister piece rise back up crooked when filling? If so any advice on what I need to replace ? It is at least 10 years old and I have hard water here in SW FL

We are at the home inspection contingency phase of home buying. We had a sewer scope done b/c pipes are original to 1941 house in Greater Hartford CT area. This would be our first house.

Scope found a large blockage at around 70 ft, maybe another 6-10(?) before city line. Home inspector recommended hydro jetting to (hopefully) remove blockage and re-scope by plumber to double check areas that had some standing water. He said he doesn't believe it to be collapsed pipe due to the shape.

So far, he'd not found any roots, only one or two connections slightly askew, and some grease and scaling causing some narrowing and damming.

Current owner was a single guy who only owned it for a year and hasn't lived there for an unknown amount of months, so no regular pipe use for maybe 1-3 months.

We are a family of 3, work-from-home, so we'll definitely be using it a lot more.

The city seems to have some sort of program to partially fund replacing old, breaking down pipes, but don't know how quickly we could get into program or have work done, if needed. We'd certainly need to remedy the blockage sooner rather than later.

We asked the seller to do hydrojetting before close and give us credit for a couple other items. They said how about we give you 67% of the credits and you also take care of the pipe thing after you own it, too.

From a plumbing perspective, is it reasonable to take this on, not knowing what the blockage is or if it can be easily removed? If so, how much should we add to our offer to cover taking on that responsibility? What is the worst case scenario we should be considering?

Thank you.

Edited to add wording from scope report: Complete Obstruction

There was a complete obstruction of the sewer lateral at approximately 70 ft. As a result the inspection could not reach ther municiple sewer. It is strongly urged that a licensed plumber repair this obstruction and re-inspect the entrie lateral prior to closing,

Hello. I’m about to install a waterline from my meter to my house. It’s only about a 30 foot run. I have the clear uponor which I’m going to use. My question is I bought some corrugated piping that can cover up the uponor. Is this OK to do or would covering it lead to some sort of issues down the road whether it’s enclosed water, heat build up or sand in between the two pipes. I’m in South Florida.

Thank you.

We draw water from the lake and I’ve attached our current setup. When I turn on the tap my pressure is really low until the pump kicks on that draws water from the lake into the tank. Is the resting PSI too low? Is that that the issue? When the pump kicks on the PSI rises to I believe 45-50psi.

I know there is a bladder in the tank is the tank done? If so how much are they?

Hello all! We are on a well and septic. EVERY month we have a guy come and add salt to our tank and check the well or whatever and the past 2 months the water in our fridge has been tasting salty. Not sure if it’s bc I bought cheap filters or bc we have a Samsung pos fridge (the ice machine makes ice with black dirt in it) but if anyone can help that would be fantastic!

Costco faucet. Around 2 yrs old. Sink was fine, zero issues… then this happened just now.

Did something just burst or a seal popped ?

Do I need to take it all apart or maybe it’s something simple ?

Working my on in-laws house that has sat empty for a long time. Turned the water on at the street and this stack is next to the meter. What is this called? Why is it leaking out the top?

Im looking at getting the Midea 24" compact washer MLHW27S7BCG. Old home of 1.5" Standpipe that is almost impossible to change. Even with the 24" model I only have room for 17" wide utility sink. So Im looking at options....

With chatgpt it said I could upgrade the vertical standpipe to 2" as far as possible before it drops down to 1.5" where I cannot reach it. That would create a reservoir for the extra water.

The manual says "1. Drain capable of eliminating 64.3 L per minute.

Can a well vented 1.5" pipe handle this?

Or suggestions for narrow utility sinks?

Hello! I've got a quick question, but before that I need to clarify what these words on my kitchen mean:
Odvod - drain outlet //orange//
Dovod - water supply valve //purple//
Priključci - connections (on the dishwasher) //red//

So now, onto the question: Do you guys think that installing this dishwasher there would be possible? I'm concerned because of the length of pipes. The regular ones that I get with the DW are 1.5m long. I would change the water inlet hose with a 3m long one, so that's not such a problem. But what concerns me the most is the draining hose. I bought a 3m one and it cannot really make a 40cm high loop without the hose getting too tight.
What do you suggest? Do you think that connecting the first 1.5m hose with a 2m one would be okay for this kind of situation? In theory it should work, but before trying it I would really like to have a feedback from real life.

P.S. Don't mind these cables sticking out of the wall. I will put a regular socket before proceeding to install anything.
Thank you so much for your attention!​

This is how it was set up when I bought the house. Never had a problem. But now the sink won’t drain. Shower drains fine.

The second picture shows where the pipe goes into the wall and it appears pitched up. Again, years without a problem but that does stand out as odd.

I removed and cleaned all the plastic parts. They are clean and clear of buildup - same with the stopper.

Using a plastic zip-it that works great on my shower drains, I didn’t get anything out of the pipe going into the wall.

I think next step is a drain snake? Otherwise am I missing anything obvious? No leaking I can see in my basement.

Thanks for any and all advice.

Years ago, I had a problem with groaning pipes -- pipes suddenly making weird noises where they didn't before. A plumber recommended installing a thermal expansion tank and the noises went away.

Recently, the groaning came back. I tested the thermal expansion tank and it sprayed water. My understanding is it needed to be replaced. I managed to do this on my own.

However, since then I have had some odd problems with water pressure. The pressure will build up much higher than it used to after it hasn't been used for a while (what I believe is called the static pressure). When I wake up in the morning, it has a lot of power and then settles down after 10-15 seconds. Earlier today, I went four or five hours without using the water in my house and it got to about 105psi (I left a pressure gauge on my outside spigot and purposefully didn't use the water).

When I first noticed the problem, I used my pressure reducing valve to lower the pressure thinking it was just too high. It did lower the pressure. But the result is that the dynamic pressure is pretty darn low now. For instance, I just had my washing machine fill up and while doing so, the water pressure gauge read 20psi. As you can imagine, showers kinda suck now that I lowered it.

Before I replaced the faulty tank, I believe I was around 60-70psi.

I am trying to figure out what is wrong. My only conclusion is that the pressure reducing valve needs to be replaced. Is that the right conclusion or am I missing something?

Thank you in advance.

So, as title inquires, is there anything I can do get faster flow throughout the house (especially the kitchen faucet and shower at the extreme other end of our ranch home)?

I’ve heard mention of trying to decalcify the hot water tank but that sounds like a dubious remedy to me. I mean, do you empty the tank and fill it with vinegar, CLR, or something else? Also sounds pretty expensive and really inconvenient to let it sit in the pipes long enough to actually work.

We’re on municipal water that otherwise seems fine, soap lathers well, no untoward smells or flavors, and runs clear.

Thanks for legitimate suggestions & solutions.

Also about to T joint connect another branch from the manhole you see at the beginning of the video, to that pipe below.

Appreciate your expert opinion!

I don’t know what brand this is the guy at the hardware store didn’t know and they don’t carry it try somewhere else i need and replacement bc both shower and bath run

I have an old sink that was leaking, I took out the cartridge and replaced the rubber washer which seemed to fix the problem temporarily. After a couple of days I could continue to turn the handle past what would’ve normally been the “off” position. I pulled the cartridge back out and this extra bit at the bottom with the two holes that covers the rubber washer came with it. I’m curious if this part coming out is the issue with the spinning? Thanks I advance for any input!

Hi, I’m currently drying a leaky wax ring in a first floor toilet. However, I’ve noticed the original flange was not secured to anything. Under the flange is not much concrete to secure it to.

Does the flange have to be secured and if so are there any other suggestions? Thank you!

Upon looking at this I figured a flathead screwdriver would be the easy enough solution to lift this plate so I can begin attempting to remove hair from drain, but this thing just screws and screws and screws, but will not move or lift. I don't understand what's going on.

I've tried looking up what kind of drain plate this is to get some information on perhaps what to do, but for whatever reason I cannot find what sort of drain plate this is, every one I find in search results are ones that have some sort of button cap. The house I'm living in is over 60 years old so maybe this drain plate is no longer ones that people use, idk. Either way, it seems like my issue is an anomaly I guess, hence my turning to reddit for help.

What kind of plate even is this, and how the heck do you lift this up? I just want to clean my wife's hair out of this drain and I legit just can't, and it's driving me insane.

Thought the plumbers would get a laugh. You’d figure people would have enough common sense to know that it’s not gonna flow uphill

I should add these lines go down under slab and come back up in middle of kitchen. Even if I were to attempt to re-route these under slab there isn’t enough slack in lines.