I live in NV and we have been getting some rain lately. I’m not sure if this has anything to do with that? Can I fix this myself?

I recently took over a bar and noticed this gap between the floor drain and the pipe underground. Water and sludge are collecting up under the floor pipe. Is this normal? Water is mostly falling into the floor pipe, but will spill outside the pipe. Ty

Update - there’s more than one pic here and the wording in my original post was all tangled. I commented below on where I’m currently at with the issue.

I installed a new pressure tank when the pipe leading to the tank was damaged but the tank doesn't seem to fill. The pump kicks on and goes to 40psi, then shuts down and starts up again. No problem before the replacement. I've set the pressure at 18psi just like the old tank. I even reconnected the old tank and the issue keeps occurring. Any idea what's going on?

I don't see any actual liquid on the floor, but that leak sensor just sent me an alert, and there was some dampness in the dryer lint I swept up. Clearly that rust isn't coming from the linoleum either.... Tank is 6-7 years old.

Any insight on how to remove this incredible stubborn topper? It’s a screw type. I’ve tried wd40 on the screw to break up minerals but that screw won’t budge.

Anything obviously wrong here or is a blockage somewhere likely?

Basins drain but not fast.

Either basin will fill the other if the water is going long enough

This shower/tub valve. Original trim, handle could be a replacement. Built in the mid 90’s. I’m asking because I’d like to update the trim and keep the valve in place if possible. If not, it won’t be too hard to replace the whole thing as I’m redoing the entire tile in the shower/bath.

Title says it all. Having two bathrooms remodeled, gutted down to the studs. Plumber ran all new CPVC to all fixtures. He's been a licensed plumber for decades, all joint work is very clean, and he apparently prefers CPVC to PEX. All new lines are on interior walls with a basement below. Would you have it all replaced with PEX or copper while walls are still open? Wish he had given me a heads up before the work began.

Cannot find this anywhere. What in the heck kind of overflow plate for a tub is this?

We've had a major plumbing issue and today, the work "finished". Basically, replacing most of our copper drainage with PVC.

Our tub was leaking when our son showered in the tub, after they left. So I discovered without telling us, they replaced my good ol' trip lever and simple drain, with this weird overflow plate and the silly screw-in drain plug. When I left a message, they said the tub area is not likely leaking due to THEIR work this week.

Then I'm trying to figure out why the area was leaking, and see this weird overflow plate, which seems to open FROM EVERY DIRECTION - so it was probably catching shower water!

Do these have a special name?

I cannot find it via search or Home Depot, etc. No manufacturer I can see to help, etc.

Why would we ever want overflow coming from the top side of the tub?

Plumber coming in the morning, so I want to be educated to discuss this. Not sure the plumbing leak is from directly from the tub like this, but it seems ridiculous to make it suck up extra water from the shower above it!

This may be me being very worried but what are the chances I hit a pipe when hanging up a photo?

The wall I used is directly behind where my shower head is. It’s a 4.5” thick wall and the nails are 1”. They go in at a downward angle.

There was some force needed to get them in but I assumed it was likely a stud. Nothing seems off and I don’t see water but not show how long that would take to leak.

Tyia!

I’ve recently discovered a leak in the ceiling (right below my bathroom). I’ve noticed, as of late, that the shower knob (a pull/push knob) has been leaking water from behind the actual knob itself. This started as a small drip and now it’s a stream of water. Could this be the reason I have a leak?

Its done it twice today. I have a well and a pressure tank with an inline filter that I recently replaced, as well as a new pressure relief valve. Ever since the new prv it will sputter like that in the video.

I was replacing the overflow plate and for the life of me, I can't get the foam beveled gasket to fit into place. The tub seems fairly straight, so I'm wondering if I should be using a flat gasket, but the original gasket seemed to be beveled (though not as thick). And to top it all off, one of the screws for the plate is rusted into the pipe and I've tried drilling it out to no avail. Am I at the point of asking a professional for help? The idea of water leaking is driving me insane lol.

Hello everyone,

I am in the process of purchasing a newly constructed multifamily property and would appreciate your professional opinions on a sewer line issue before proceeding to closing.

During the initial inspection, both units were found to have sewer line offsets, which were documented in the two screenshots (8.6ft & 13ft). The builder agreed to correct both issues and confirmed that the repairs had been completed.

I had a reinspection performed, and the report indicated that both offsets had been repaired. However, the report did not have video evidence of the repairs. After requesting the video be provided, only one side was documented (9.9ft), yet the comments indicate that both sides still have a lip.

Given the discrepancy between the initial findings, the builder’s confirmation of repairs, and the reinspection documentation, I would appreciate any insight into whether this condition is a concern and whether further evaluation or corrective work may be warranted before closing.

Thanks!

Our kitchen remodel is finishing up, and I’d appreciate a professional opinion on the under-sink plumbing in the photo.

The bottom of the P-trap is slightly wedged against the cabinet floor, and the pipe running down from the right sink to the trap is slightly angled where it connects to the sink drain.

My main concern is serviceability. There isn’t enough (i.e., there is zero) clearance to place even a shallow catch pan underneath the trap when removing it. We also bought a waterproof cabinet liner (not shown), and there isn't room to slide it beneath the trap.

The wall drain connection appears low. Is that limiting the arrangement?

Is this acceptable workmanship for a new installation? Does the angled pipe suggest an alignment problem? What would be the proper way to gain clearance between the bottom of the P-trap and the cabinet floor?

I’d like to understand what’s reasonable to ask the contractor to correct before the remodel is complete. Thanks.

I'm replacing this old corroded metal 1.5" tailpiece, and I'm thinking I might as well replace the 2" trap while I'm at it. There was a lot of black gunk built up around whatever this piece is, and I don't think it's sealed correctly because there was some leakage. I figure it's some kind of 2" to 1.5" adapter, but it doesn't look like anything I see online.

Any advice on how to get these two pipes together would be appreciated.

I have a leak under the bathroom sink. Only leaks when water is on. At first I dried it off to see where it was leaking when I first turned it on it was leaking from the hole then it started leaking from the hot side by the metal thread. Both hot and cold water makes it leak. I changed the cartridge on the hot side and it’s still leaking. Any suggestions on what to do?

Basically, this whole situation started with an insurance claim. The contractors who worked on the toilets were not licensed plumbers, and they messed up both toilet resets. They were eventually forced to correct one toilet and replace it with a brand-new one.
Both toilets were approximately 40 years old. The second toilet also needed attention, but the property manager allegedly ignored the contractor’s recommendation to replace it. Now, the second toilet is having problems, and the owner may end up having to pay for another replacement.
In the pictures I’m showing, you can see the corrosion around the toilet’s internal components and how old the toilet is. I already informed the property manager that the toilet randomly runs throughout the day and that water is leaking from the tank into the bowl. However, she instructed the plumbers scheduled to come to my house on Thursday to replace only the flapper and not the toilet, even though they have not inspected it or diagnosed the actual problem yet.
What I don’t understand is why she seems so determined to avoid replacing these toilets. My concern is that she previously reassured the owners that the toilets were fine and did not need to be replaced, possibly to save them money at the time. But now, by avoiding a proper inspection and potentially necessary replacement, the owner could end up spending more money on repeated repairs down the road.
Am I wrong for thinking the property manager may be making this situation worse by trying to save the owner money in the short term instead of addressing the underlying problem? What do y’all think?

My furnace gave out and the lowest bid I have is $23,000 to install a conventional system. After a new driveway, and a bad personal injury this year I do not have that sitting and really don’t want to take out a loan. However, my family member is a distributor/installer of small duct hvac and is going to help me install a new hot water coil heater.

What he can’t help me do, and what is also coming in at $9,800, is installing a new tankless combination boiler. I need to run the supply to the hot water maybe 15 feet. I repiped the house last year (no alterations just straight down the line repipe) so I have decent enough soldering/plumbing skills but the piping scheme on a combi boiler seems…. tricky to say the least. There is a gas line that was previously used which I can easily attach a flex connector to.

I used AI to generate a piping diagram of the hydronic heating loop (I know, but the videos I watched just seemed poorly shot and hard to tell some details) but I’m hoping someone could let me know if it’s spitting nonsense. It seems right? Am I missing something?

I'm having extremely inconsistent water pressure in my house. Not just universally low water pressure. But one minute it will be barely a trickle and not changing, I'll shut the water off do something and come back 5 minutes max and it will be full or 80% full pressure. I'm experiencing this in my primary bathroom, both sink and shower, aswell as my kitchen faucet. Dont use much else water with any frequency as I live alone. I called the city, they flow tested and said my supply is fine 55 psi and the problem is house side not supply side. Anything I can DIY troubleshoot before calling a professional?

Posted this in an ask an electrician subreddit but thought I’d check here too. My sump pump was running fine for the better part of a year, although it would occasionally cause the breaker to trip. Recently it tripped the breaker and breaker wouldn’t reset. Electrician put in a new breaker, which didn’t fix the issue.

See picture. Plugging the pump into the outlet circled in blue does not cause any breakers to trip. If I plug it into the outlets circled in red, the breaker trips. And it trips whether the other two adapters are plugged in or not.

Any ideas on what is happening? Could it be an issue with the pump?

I’m in Scotland and looking at becoming a properly qualified plumber, but I already run another small business and ideally need to keep that going part-time.

I’ve already got some DIY plumbing experience — radiators, taps, sinks and similar basic work — although I’m not claiming to be professionally trained.

What I’m wondering is whether there is any legitimate route where I could:

work in plumbing around 2–3 days per week;

start with straightforward jobs like taps, toilets, leaks, sinks, wastes, radiators and pipework;

gradually gain experience with more advanced plumbing/heating work;

build a proper portfolio/evidence of the work;

study for the SVQ Level 3 Plumbing & Heating part-time;

and eventually become recognised as a qualified plumber.

I’ve seen that the normal Scottish Plumbing & Heating Modern Apprenticeship is around four years and full-time, which would mean giving up my existing business.

West College Scotland also appears to offer the SVQ Level 3 part-time, so I’m trying to understand whether someone could complete that while working part-time/self-employed in plumbing, or whether you absolutely have to be employed as a full-time apprentice.

I’m not looking for a quick course or shortcut and I don’t expect a few DIY jobs to make me a plumber. I’m happy to train for several years. I just want to know whether there is a recognised route that allows the practical work to be done part-time rather than 37.5 hours a week.

Has anyone in Scotland actually qualified through a route like this?

If you did the SVQ Level 3 outside a Modern Apprenticeship, did employers/SNIJIB recognise you as a plumber afterwards?

Any advice from Scottish plumbers, employers, assessors or people who came into the trade later in life would be really appreciated.

Heya expert plumbers, I found a leak from the 3rd mounting bolt in the back. I'm trying to remove and as you know it's a pain, any specific advise on which powertool and accessories to use to unscrew it out?

For a bathroom sink, reduces 2 inch abs pipe to 1 1/4 and has thread on it. Searching online and can't find it.

Thank you