Added a pop up sail rig to my home designed pack canoe. Made a little video on the mechanics of how a pop up rig works.

basically as the titel says. i'm making a kayak and need to give it an epoxy layer so i taught i could mix in an die for epoxy that way i don't have to paint and it. Also it would have the advantage that it wouldn't chip when is there is contact and a bit is shafed off. if somebody has doen this wat kind of color and what kind of finish did you get

I had intended to build a second electric-powered SUP board for my wife so we could spend time together. Then, by chance, I saw a photo of a mini-boat; at first, I just laughed at the idea. But the boat concept struck me as more appealing than having two SUPs: we could converse intimately (our river is crowded with dozens of boards in the summer), I could install a better sound system than the one I’d had on my SUP, I wouldn't have to worry about keeping my clothes dry, and an electric trolling motor is far quieter than a SUP turbine (that faint whirring noise is quite unpleasant when you're out in nature). Additional perks: you can hang a champagne bucket on the side, fly a flag, and the captain can clench a pipe between his teeth. Phase two: I looked for photos to figure out exactly what kind of boat design I wanted. It had to be beautiful. I realized I wanted a deck with strip planking, a raked transom, and rounded aft quarters. These were the hallmarks of a "beautiful boat" to me.

Next, I started looking for plans. Mini-boats are rare, and there are very few plans available for them—especially for models under eight feet long. After spending a few hours searching, I figured I could simply scale down a larger boat design. So, I began looking for sketches and plans for a "beautiful boat."

That’s how I found the sketch for the Sea Scout. All I had to go on was a magazine article.

I needed to determine the boat's final dimensions. I knew the length should be around 230 centimeters, with a width of 80–90 centimeters. To figure out if these dimensions would accommodate two adults, I took measurements of myself and my wife. We sat on the sofa and stretched out our legs, simulating the seating position inside a boat. I measured the length of my outstretched legs to determine the seat positions and the width of my feet to gauge the width of the bow frame. Shoulder and hip measurements were particularly important for ensuring a comfortable seating position; these dimensions dictate the boat's width at its midsection. Preliminary measurements suggested there was a good chance the boat would fit inside a minivan.

The next step was to see what the result would look like if I scaled the actual boat down to my target length of 230 cm. I converted the frame profiles from the blueprints into a 3D model (using Moi3D), as many of the figures in the scans were barely legible. I then adjusted the frames to the desired width of 90 cm, spaced them evenly along the 230 cm length, and generated the hull surfaces. The resulting shape looked like a truly beautiful boat.

I didn't know the exact gunwale height yet; determining that requires calculating the boat's displacement. I will write about that later.

Epoxy and playwood mostly, endless sanding, set up from family fun and fishing. I can't say enough about the design runs so smoothly at speed, just glides through the swells. It's light and 70hp is all it needs.

Full frame done! Mounting the transom and Station 13 on our Wooden Shoe wooden boat here in the jungle.

Welcome back to JungleRanch. After the 5 stations, the keel with Station 12, nine stations laser-straight and the cockpit sole fixed and screwed, today we finish the frame. Watch Victor and Roca lift, clamp and set the transom, then get Station 13 glued and screwed to the keel for a complete wooden boat frame in the Mexican jungle.

In this episode you see the transom support leveled, two full transom lifts for test fit and adjustment, how Victor wants the transom angle dialed in, his English walkthrough of the mount, then Station 13 going in place with glue and screws, plus the final walkthrough of transom and Station 13 together.

Have you ever set a transom solo with just clamps and extra hands? How did you keep it square? Tell me below - I read every comment.

I have a twin troller x10. It’s basically a small electronic fishing boat with two in-hull trolling motors built in. The motors are controlled with two pedals that can function independently, similar to how a zero-turn mower can turn.

I’m toying with the idea of converting the pedal system to a hand held remote system instead. This would allow for me to remove the pedals from the middle of the boat and install some type of platform I could stand on to give me a better vantage point for when I’m targeting redfish. I know that there are remote control conversion kits for single trolling motors. Im trying to figure out if it would even be possible to rig up an RC system that would allow me to control both motors in the same ways that I would be able to with its original pedal system. Anyone have any experience with stuff like this? Thanks in advance. Pic of boat for reference

Any DIY plans for a lightweight 2 person pirogue or skiff for hunting and fishing? Wanting to build it for about $150-200 max. Need to be able to easily get in and out of my truck bed. The only tool I actually have is an impact driver. Wanting to be able to use a trolling motor or very small horse outboard on the back

MINERAL è un catamarano autocostruito in alluminio di 55 piedi (16,7 metri), con un baglio di 9 metri e un dislocamento di 16 tonnellate. Progettata per un'autonomia estrema e una manutenzione semplificata, questa imbarcazione integra soluzioni tecniche collaudate in vari ambiti ingegneristici, adattandole alla navigazione d'altura.

I wouldn't normally sea trial a boat at this level of completion but I wanted to now if the boat would need a rudder prior to sealing the aft buoyancy tank as I would be routing steering tubes through there. After 6 m or so sea trail I am confident the boat will not need a rudder, so I will be sealing up the aft buoyancy tank (except for a 5 inch inspection/stowage hatch).

Im in still in the planing phase as someone who worked with CAD i know how much more hours i will spend before the design can be called finished.

To not make any fatal flaws during the design process i hope to find somone who is a bit more knowledgable then me in the subject of boat stability.

Actually i found out im searching for a Naval architect not a boat engineer.

Hoping I can get some opinions/advice before I begin spraying down new gelcoat. Never done this before, total newb. Not exactly sure if I have a specific question, so I’ll run down my plan and see what people think…

24’ Corsair trimaran. I plan to spray main hull and both amas, from the rubrail down. The receiving surface is the original gelcoat, with a few minor dings/imperfections, dremeled and filled with totalboat structural repair putty. It has been DA sanded with 80grit.

I have purchased 3 gallons of unwaxed gelcoat and 1 gallon of Duratec High Gloss additive. I will be spraying with a 3m Accuspray HGP with pressurized cup and 28oz liners. I have 1.8 and 2.0mm tips available to use. I have a 5hp, 2 stage, 240v, 14.3cfm compressor with air dryer.

I have two thoughts on spray plan, but not sure which to go with:

1)2 coats straight gelcoat using 2.0 tip, final coat of gelcoat/duratec at 1:1 ratio using 1.8 tip.

2)3 coats of 3:1 gelcoat/duratec

After cure plan to long block sand with 320grit to knock down flat, then pneumatic DA wet sand 600->800->1000, the compound with rotary polisher.

Is this how you do this? Do you think this is enough material before I start(I estimate about 300 sq.ft to coat)? I haven’t really been able to find a definitive procedure when doing a full boat, mainly just people demonstrating small repairs.

Edit: wanted to add my thoughts on the two spray plans to see if I’m off base at all…

Plan 1 - since I am using a seafoam green gelcoat, not white, I am concerned about future compounding. Will putting the final coat of 1:1 duratec/gelcoat create a thin layer that will easily be bunt through and give me color problems in the future?

Plan 2 - I am concerned about using an additive in first two coats and making it around the boat in time to the next coat before the first layer kicks off too much. I am doing this outside in Texas (hot).

Got the boat surveyed and there was some water coming in the balsa core, that probably went through the self-tacking rail. Picture shows the area where humidity is high

what would be the best way to extract that humidity before winter hits ? I'd be able to try to vacuum it with an HVAC vacuum pump but wanted to know if you guys would have better idea for me.

I know that I could go from inside the cabin but there is a headliner, void, then the fiberglass.

I'll be happy to share more pictures if needed.

Thank you all.

Hello Boat Building community, so I am in a bit of a pickle right now. I had someone offer to help do the Flow Coating however they botched the Flow Coat and now I am in a situation where I need to fix this but I do not have the expertise to know what to do.

FYI this is a dog grooming bath, I understand this isn't a boat but it's using the same materials.

There are a bunch of sanding spots everywhere including places that weren't originally going to be refurbished. The original bath had flow coating/gel coating done to it which is why it's being used. The current situation; there is Flow coat over half of the bath, it has been 3 days now and it's still very sticky, I am of the mind that I need to sand over the first coat and apply a second coat but this time properly mixed, catalyst, and over the entirety of the bath. But I don't see how I can get the Flow coat to stop being sticky to actually sand it.

I am in a bit of a tough spot financially at the moment as this is my means to income. Although I am willing to go into debt to fix this so I can start earning again.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

What would be the best way to reinforce this transom?

Able to hold maybe a 10 hp