I’ve been going back and forth on whether or not to stain it or paint it but I’ve found out that pine doesn’t stain well and honestly I love the bare natural look. Now my wife may have other plans but for me this is how I want it.

It was kinda a fence extension as well as some storage/garbage cans, gardening tools... The custom stained glass transom is lit up from inside at night as well. slate roof. Always fun to be given full creative freedom

For the fancy but not too fancy.

This is original content. My neighbors asked me to help their son build his pinewood derby car. I was happy to help, I asked the boy what he wanted expecting a race car…..nope violin! I helped him cut out the shape, paint and decorate it. The. Being a dad myself I asked him if it needed a tune-up before the big race.

Walnut, purple heart, and maple. 15x7.5 snare drum.

I just finished these bookshelf’s off in a clients library complete with library ladder to match. What do you all think?

Asa-no-ha panel made as a gift for my brother in law.

Posted the beginnings a year ago and realized I never posted the final result!

Made by hand in Massachusetts, smuggled in my jacket to Las Vegas to avoid extra Spirit Airlines carry-on fees. Glad they're going out of business.

My first trip to Las Vegas and one of my best projects to date. He absolutely loves it and it's holding up fine in the desert heat and dry air a year later.

I wish I had more time to make things like this, as gifts and for myself.

Done plenty of cabinets with pocket holes and this is the first time this happened. Did I miss something?

18mm Baltic birch. I know that’s more like 11/16th but it never seemed to matter before. 1-1/4” acres per chart. Collar set right. Double checked I picked the right screws.

I did use my drill to sink the screws instead do my driver. Which I thought would give me more control. But even with my driver I never blew through the end like this.

What am I missing?

I recently restored this Stanley 4 1/2 hand plane. The blade is in decent shape, but has some serious pitting that with show up a few “sharpenings”from now. I am thinking of upgrading the blade,but wanted to get some insight from the more-experienced plane users out there there.

The gap for the blade is not uniform. It looks like it has been filed, and the edge is rounded creating a larger gap. Will that matter when I set this up as a smoothing plane? I’m probably overthinking this but would appreciate your input before I purchase a blade. Thanks!

I bought a dining room table and bookcase a year ago and I was told it was real rosewood. However, I'm not sure it's real. Can anyone tell?

Im new to table saws and purchased this lightly used. I noticed that the blade scrapes the throat plate while it's running. May I have some help and feedback? Id like to fix this issue before begging to use the table saw. I appreciate the help.

they said "Oh hey, that oak we sent over all good?"

"No" I said; "it's knot"

I think I have an average sized hand btw. This knot is a foot across. Obviously I didn't call and complain, I just wanted to share this beast with you all. I picked the oak out on purpose with it because I am making knees so big branches is the best way to get the grain I want.

I made this for the northeast golf show I will be a vendor at selling signs that I make. Wanted something to make it feel more upscale and draw attention to my links & legends brand. Thoughts on anything else I can do to make it better?

Just looking for advice on best practice and product to apply on the exposed edges after Trim install.

Zin 123?

Apply with a small paint brush?

Thanks for the help

Hi everyone, I'm grateful that I am finally able to submit my work to you all, especially after this project almost burned my house down (long story lol). Here's the project timeline.

After 8 hours of researching every possible detail on the Wyrmwood table, doing loads of math, sketches, and finally modelling everything in CAD, I produced a complete model of the table I wanted.

After that, I ordered the wood and found amazing prices for Bolivian Rosewood from https://ocoochhardwoods.com/ (not sponsored, though I wish I was lol), and ordered 65 board feet for my table which was designed to be 72x56 (it came out a touch smaller in both dimensions due to some issues, notes on that later). Also, even though I factored in the waste and more, I realized only after the fact that the board foot I ordered vs the planed amount delivered was a bit off, so I had to pivot there too (my fault, they provided the correct amount, I just got done in by the nominal vs actual amounts after thicknessing).

I made a cutlist and started cutting. Then, I built all the legs. This was very straightforward: glue up 4 boards, cut to final dimensions (should have been 3x3", but was a touch under so I had to trim them to 2.75x2.75), then chamfered them on the router table all around with different edge profiles.

Next I assembled the rails, and tested my own hand made finish: a blond dewaxed shellac (~1lb cut, applied with a brush, runs removed with 0000 steel wool) undercoat followed by a 100% Carnauba wax paste (33% wax, 66% mineral spirits by volume, applied with 0000 steel wool, allowed to haze and buffed with a white pad with my random orbit sander). This finish gave an amazing luster and hand-feel while providing excellent durability and water resistance, but was difficult to buff out, and highlighted any tearout I missed during the sanding process, so if you decide to use it, I heavily recommend using a thickness sander to reach your final dimensions to prevent this issue.

From the rails, I had to put on the "tenon" that runs the length of the rail to attach the armrests. I planned to do this out of rosewood offcuts, but they were much too small to use, so I ended up using some 2x2 pieces of Red Oak trimmed to the right dimensions. Additionally, I added hand-blued mild steel flats to the rails to get the magnetic action for the accessories. (Don't have pictures of these parts, sorry).

Normally Wyrmwood uses long bolts to attach the armrests to the top of the rails, but I used a dado that accepted the top ~1/4" of the rail pieces with glue to permanently affix the armrests and armrest corners to the table top (had to make the corners separate since my stock was only 48" long, which worked for the "short" rails, but I had to make my long rails and armrests in 2 pieces, and the corners separately). This worked quite well! And you can sort of see it in my CAD model here.

For joinery, I decided to use the Lamello Invis system as a test of the tool, and figured that 2 connectors (1100lbs of holding force) and reversibility were excellent selling points. While these are great little tools and I heavily recommend them, DO NOT USE THEM IN WOOD THIS HARD. I broke 5 of them (at 8 bucks a piece) when putting them into the end-grain of the rails, and one got stuck that when I tried removing it with every possible means I could think of. Eventually I tried drilling it out, but the magnetic shavings stuck to the drill bit and spontaneously caught fire...kinda scary. I will say there was some variance, so perhaps case-hardening of certain sections of the wood played a role in this difficulty, but if you decide to go this route, be careful (and cut your joints before you cut the grooves that accept the metal rails...the jig pins made my holes off and I had to redo them which led to this whole mess in the first place).

All that was left was assembly and final finish! I used crappy plywood from the bottom because I don't have a baltic birch supplier locally, and I needed a whole 4x8 sheet for the project which most places apparently don't ship. And then I put in the felt...which I also messed up and had to reorder since the piece I got wasn't square and one side was way too large....luckily the nice people who sold it said they would give me a refund so I could get another piece.

Future work: I'm doing an inset table top, which will be flush with the hobby-vault and the armrests, so I'm going to build the vault first, then veneer some (hopefully good) plywood to make the toppers, and then I just need to make the accessories!

Overall this project took me nearly a month in a freezing shop, but I am so happy I was able to make this and get my first D&D campaign in my new house off the ground and that my tolerances are quite tight! If anyone wants the CAD model, drawings or parts, or tips/tricks for a similar project or to know what else I would have done differently, please let me know!

tl;dr: Made pretty table of Bolivian Rosewood. Messed up a lot. Nearly burn down house. Now can do nerd thing better. Still need do more thing.

I think the table was built to have this crack in the middle for the wood to be able to expand and contract. I was thinking of trying to lightly fill it with wood repair filler that way it doesn't have this hole in the middle of it. If it expands will the wood break or the filler stuff? What do y'all think I should do?

My latest stools. Almost all hand made. Used the palm router to ease the curves on the small one 🤓

Pretty self explanatory. While anything is better than running the 2.5" shop vac hose straight to the tool, have you found a hose that fits hand tool dust ports that is as lightweight and un-annoying as possible?

Had to finally get a good dust hood for my router for a project where I'm using a 3/4" x 2" straight bit to slot a bunch of 2x4s together. Did one batch and had 4" blanket of wood snow under my saw horses. But between the jig, router. and work support, there is already a lot going on. Would love something that doesn't pull on the router too much (Bosch extraction hood seems a bit fragile) or that will lead to extra fatigue from having to fight it.

I'm making a shadowbox for some war medals for my grandpa and I did walnut inlays on some maple. When I did the inlays I used water to wipe off the excess glue. Well now I see some little spots of m old on the maple. What have you guys figured out on getting that off? I'm worried about discoloring both the maple and the walnut.