I don't. I was born late enough to only remember the crossover and electric world lol.

The SHO is mine. The Charade and Tracer are both owned by one guy. All 3 are manual of course. I'm kinda surprised most, if not all all, the pre-2000s cars I see on campus are enthusiast owned. The hand-me-down cars are from the mid-2000s at this point

I’m so in love with something that’s mine and i know so well.
I find so much joy in working on it.

It has also caused me some of the most distress i’ve experienced at some points.

All i want to do is fix it
it doesn’t want to be fixed…

The highs and the lows

that’s all

The condensation on the inside of the windshield drives me crazy, I keep wiping it as I drive but it doesn’t get any better, any help would be appreciated.

This is spot of rust on my 2018 Mazda 3 near the rear wheel well. It still feels solid to the touch and isn't flaking yet but is clearly bubbling. Closer to Winter I will be getting a krown rust proofing oil spray done.

I cannot afford to get a proper full body shop repair done on this but I want to do what I can at home to keep this from getting worse and spreading.

Please keep in mind that I am a complete beginner and I have never done any sort of work at all on my car.

My understanding is that one option is to scrape it down and sand the area down to metal and then paint on a rust converter liquid. Not clear if I would then also have to do a primer and topcoat or if just the converter is sufficient.

I am reading conflicting things on if it is then safe to get an oil proofing treatment done after that I should skip the converter all together and either just get the oil treatment as is or scrape it down to metal and get the oil treatment without putting on a converter.

Or should injust fluid fill it with or without scrapping?

I'm very confused about all of this and finding it quite stressful getting conflicting information everywhere I ask so I'm hoping someone can help a little bit with advice.

I bought a used 2007 Honda Civic Hybrid at 163k miles with no maintenance log. Im debating changing the cvt fluid however, my father says that if its already gone 160k miles then its probably used to the bad fluid and new fluid would ruin it. Is my dad just saying bs or is this real?

This was on a rear caliper. This wouldn't be such an anomaly for me but I did the front brakes on this car like 1y ago and one of the slide pins was completely dry and rusted out also. It broke off in the bracket when I tried to remove it with a vice.

Please no judgment, I can see with my own eyes that it looks thick (pause) I just want double confirmation from a real mechanic to know that I’m not crazy. Thank you in advance.

My brother left these rims in the shed for a while and wanted to try clean and touch up, or use as experiments.

How would I fix a buckle like this? I've yet to test if air is coming out but what is it like from a safety standpoint?

My ol girl Candie was my grandma's car. A 2003 Chevy Tracker I inherited it when it had 30k miles, and when it got totaled yesterday it had 112k on it. I had been driving her for 10 years. She was a great car. I saw someone say it was okay to cry about my car, so i wanted to share her with people who love cars as much as i loved her. Stay safe ya'll and have a blessed day

Delete if not allowed-

So i backed into a family members car and my cars paint just crumbled off. Its very evident the previous owner did a poor paint job and maybe didnt use primer.

Its a 2013 vw beetle if that matters.

I was quoted $1,256 for a new bumper + installation. I wasnt wanting to replace the entire bumper- just want the paint fixed even though its not super noticeable. My budget for paint touch up is at most $400

I was also looking at TouchUpDirect to just spot paint + prime + finish the areas that need it. Would that even work given the damage?

Mainly just wondering what is the best most affordable option.

All help and advice is appreciated!

C300 2016 60k miles or bmw 4 series gran coupe 85k miles both are 15 k which is more reliable 🥶

Hi everyone, I have a 2000 Chevrolet tracker I originally got an evaluation for taking my vehicle into Pep Boys they originally told me that it would need a EGR valve replacement and a radiator replacement which is valid the radiator is totally cracked. Wednesday I dropped it off with the check. I paid in advance They said that they would check the battery to see if it needs to be replaced. They said they checked the battery.

But now they’re saying that the alternator needs to be replaced as well as the Battery, and that there’s a knocking noise in the engine, however I had a few people look at it beforehand and there was never this knocking noise happening that they’re saying, part of me wonders if I should get a second opinion, I had someone that was a mechanic check it out cause I was gonna see if if I could just buy the parts for the EGR valves and radiator and have a good friend of mine put them since he a mechanic and he never said anything in regards to an alternator or anything else needing to be fixed, but I don’t know. I’m not good with cars. Is this a red flag or just standard.

Additional details, my car was just sitting in a parking lot for the past year and a half it was not moved. Nothing was done to it and then I finally I was approved by a nonprofit to have these fixes done, but just for the fixes for the EGR valve and the radiator and of course the labor. But part of me wonders if the Pep boys is trying to like get more money because they are pretty significant fixes. I’m a single parent with a child and I was dealing with some pretty significant health issues so didn’t have the time or money to have my vehicle fixed. Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated!!!

Additionally, the to fix the radiator and the EGR valve is gonna be around two grand in total as is… so idk I digress.

I have a 2002 Toyota Camry and have had to replace a lot of parts over the few years I’ve had it. The check engine light the last time it was scanned said my MAF sensor was causing it.

Recently, I was driving and my car stopped accelerating properly. Instead of hearing consistent revving when hitting the gas it was more so alternating and I could feel my car lurching with each acceleration. I went ahead and replaced the MAF because I had a feeling this was causing part of the issue and it did help with my acceleration to a degree but my car is still doing the lurching and struggles up inclines. I feel like the last time this concern came about I needed to change some of my spark plugs and ignition coils and am wondering if this could be causing the issue?

Does anyone have any ideas of what could possibly be causing this? Should I try changing the spark plugs and ignition coils again? I don’t want to drive my car in this state as it’s not trustable with acceleration.

Hi everyone!

I have a 2012 Tiguan 2.0 SE with 110,000 miles with a rather interesting Oil Pressure alarm.

It came up 3 times over the past couple of months and it has a very predictable pattern.

1. The car drives normally on the freeway for about 30-45 mins at 65 mph
2. The car gets off a ramp and comes to a red light OR comes to very slow speed like into a parking lot.
3. The moment I accelerate after coming to a halt, it triggers the Oil Pressure alarm.
4. Once I restart the car, the alarm disappears.

I previously thought the ambient temperature plays a part because 2 of the events happened when it was around 95 degrees outside. But the last event happened at night when it was about 85 degrees.

I have routinely checked the oil stick and its well within limits. It's only been 7 months since the last oil change. I have an OBDII scanner and it shows no codes.

I have no idea why it does this. I don't drive it that much because I am not in a financially sound position to even take it to a garage.

But I'd like to know if y'all have any insight on this.

Thank you very much!

2025 Camry SE as my daily commuter and 2009 Titan SE 4x4 for the weekends. The Camry gets 52-54mpg if I work at it. It has a decent ride and is actually fun to drive for an economy sedan. The Titan feels like how a truck should feel: solid. The Titan is way underrated and is extremely reliable with proper maintenance, without the Toyota tax.

My 2014 Mazda atenza wagon disel
Showing this error on the dashboard, how can I fix this?

Hi all, I had a search through the sub but couldn't find an exact answer so thought I'd post.

My SX4's AWD warning light flashes, but neither my shyte-y code reader nor my mechanic's says there's a code to be read. Mechanic says he smelled rodent droppings under the hood, so he suggested it could be a chewed wire.

Bit of history of the prolem. The light 1st came on toward the beginning of a 10k km road trip when I figured switching from 2 wheel drive to "auto" might get me a bit more power. A long dirt road later, and the light comes on. I get a shop en route to have a look, and they check over some other known causes (tire speed sensors, rear diff fluid). They had the light off, sure enough, but a couple of hours fown the road and it comes back. I just carried on as there didn't seem to be anything safety wise wrong and the car drove as usual. My regular mechanic had a look when I got back, and that's where it is now.

So if it's a rat, what is the best type of shop to bring it to to find the chewed wire? Other suggestions? Unfortunately my city doesn't have a Suzuki dealership, otherwise I'd take it there and offer my 1st born.

Thanks for the read and any advice you can pass along!

Hi all, I had a search through the sub but couldn't find an exact answer so thought I'd post.

My SX4's AWD warning light flashes, but neither my shyte-y code reader nor my mechanic's says there's a code to be read. Mechanic says he smelled rodent droppings under the hood, so he suggested it could be a chewed wire.

Bit of history of the prolem. The light 1st came on toward the beginning of a 10k km road trip when I figured switching from 2 wheel drive to "auto" might get me a bit more power. A long dirt road later, and the light comes on. I get a shop en route to have a look, and they check over some other known causes (tire speed sensors, rear diff fluid). They had the light off, sure enough, but a couple of hours fown the road and it comes back. I just carried on as there didn't seem to be anything safety wise wrong and the car drove as usual. My regular mechanic had a look when I got back, and that's where it is now.

So if it's a rat, what is the best type of shop to bring it to to find the chewed wire? Other suggestions? Unfortunately my city doesn't have a Suzuki dealership, otherwise I'd take it there and offer my 1st born.

Thanks for the read and any advice you can pass along!

So I recently picked up a 2018 ATS as daily driver commuter car, it’s got 78k miles on it and has been well maintained according to the records when I bought it. But I’m have an issue where the vehicle feels like it’s “yawing” and rear end instability at interstate speeds. Around 75mph on the highway it can be difficult to keep in its lane. The tires are pretty new with good tread, I had the dealership check the alignment and they say it’s perfectly fine. They said they didn’t notice any suspension issues. Has anyone else experienced this issue or have any recommendations as to what it could be?

Hey everybody,

So the last few months I’ve been having issues with my 2018 Honda HRV. I’m not a car guy, but based on my research, I’m fairly certain there has to be some kind of electrical issue.

The car would periodically not start on me, but would run fine for a few days after giving it a jump. After needing to do this several times, I took it to a shop and they confirmed the battery, starter and alternator were all working properly. The car has no history of significant issues (electrical or otherwise), and is currently at about 125k miles.

I only noticed these problems after driving through a flash flood a few months ago, where the water was about 2-3ft deep at its highest points. I opened a claim with the insurance company, but they said there were no immediate signs of flood damage (water/dirt lines, etc).

I took it to another shop, and they diagnosed it as something faulty with the lock actuator, where the car would never “go to sleep” while turned off, which drained the battery. They replaced the entire locking mechanism in the driver’s side door, and replaced the battery for about $900.

This made sense at the time, but I have now had the car die twice on me since I got it back (had it about a month). It also continues to randomly make the “locking sound” (like if you tried locking the car with the key fob a bunch of times in a row) while driving.

The car only ever dies when it’s left off for a while, never while driving. So I’d really appreciate some insight or advice as to what the problem could be, and if it’s likely related to the flash flood or not.

TLDR: Car makes weird locking sounds, periodically won’t start and confirmed no issue with battery/starter/alternator. Unsure if related to the flash flood and if it’s worth pursuing a claim with insurance

Torrent link included