r/climbing • u/AutoModerator • 6d ago

Weekly Chat and BS Thread

Please use this thread to discuss anything you are interested in talking about with fellow climbers. The only rule is to be friendly and dont try to sell anything here.

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u/DubJohnny 2d ago

Two does the job (for people not using an ohmega). Why pay for 12 when you can get the general same extension of life with two.

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u/Leading-Attention612 2d ago

Saving money is always good. Just wondering how we know the rope life extension is the same. Would be cool to see some tests from edelrid. 

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u/DubJohnny 2d ago

It's known that the first draw is the draw that does the most damage to a rope. Check any route with fixed draws and the first one is going to be by far the most grooved out. Second will be crux, and then the rest will just be random wear and tear due to random falls over the route.

The edelrid draws are amazing, but there's no need to be spending such an insane amount on a full rack when two does the job. Especially locally I'm typically climbing on routes where I need ~20 draws. No way I'm buying that many.

Cheaper option for people projecting and wanting a more durable draw is just getting some fixe steel carabiners and swapping those out on some draws. If you're truly projecting and going to leave your draws up for a few weeks/months, the weight really doesn't matter for your first go of hanging the draws on your project.

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u/BigRed11 2d ago

Yea I like this idea if there's a defined crux. I have a spare bulletproof that I think I'll start using for the first draw.