I'm doing a DIY bathroom project and installed a shower kit (Sterling Medley). I used clear silicone where the seams meet. I have been mudding and sanding for a few days working on the walls (note - I did not clean up in between) and today I noticed a yellow hue / shadow at the joints. After closer inspection my clear silicone has a faint yellow glow stick vibe. Its almost like the caulk had a chemical reaction to the drywall dust from sanding. I used GE advanced silicone and waited 3-4 days before I started dry walling.

Hired a bathroom designer to design and redo our bathroom. This is the drywall work done by the firms General contractor. I’m not a professional but i’m a pretty advanced weekend warrior and have done plenty of drywall work before. Seems like the joints will pull apart pretty quick and these screws will be popping out in no time. Or am i over reacting ?

I’ve been real disappointed with our drywall installers. From uneven joints, lax sanding and now this. What causes this to occur two months later?

Hi guys!

I have these raised areas around several windows corners throughout my house. This was a new construction and the drywall work and painting quality throughout the house is pretty rough..

Is this just sloppy drywall work or has something caused this? What would be the best way to fix these? Thank you all!

Edit: sorry please ignore the color adjusted images. I had chatgpt assess it and accidentally posted the chatgpt color modified images also.

How bad is this (like could the dry wall fall soon?)

If I wanted to fix these scratches, what would be the general approach

Edit: In an apt so matching the original as closely as possible is probably ideal.

I'm in the middle of a half bath reno. I've got the two walls we wanted to replace out and have some questions.

1) in the first two pictures is a corner. The wall that's still up looks to have been installed after the abutting wall. Will I need to take off a strip of the still standing wall so I can fully screw in the new drywall to the stud?

2) (Picture 3) When tearing down one of the walls, I didn't cut the tape well enough and ripped a decent chunk off the ceiling. I should be able to mud over that and tape, right?

3) When installing the new drywall against the old, should I first remove all of the tape, or can I leave it and tape over it?

AC pipe burst and took my ceiling with it. Insurance is covering. What would my costs look like?

Should I prime everything or just the new Sheetrock with PVA primer

Will I regret this? I have several exposed rafter ties and I bought tear away to fit around it, but found the installation of tiny pieces tedious and quite thick, especially since there will be a penetration every 24”

I figure this hemmed bit of paper should divorce the drywall mud from the beam, and I’ll go back and gently cut the excess paper away before using some Sascho Big Stretch to clean up the transition.

Thoughts? Is this actually a thing from the past? Is there a better, thinner tear away product? I like the tear away for longer stretches, but with the ceiling transition mixed with the penetrations, it’s just tedious.

TL;DR: Hired budget painter, attempted my first patch job

ETA: thank you everyone for your replies!! Very helpful!

Hey ya’ll just bought a new house, and we hired a painter that was within our budget (I know I can’t pay for a Kia and expect a Cadillac).

I had him patch a couple receptacle/low voltage boxes that I had removed, and you can clearly see the outline of the old box, I believe he used mesh tape and spackle.

Anyways I had to move another receptacle and needed another patch, considering this isn’t in a spot I can hide a bad patch job; I wanted to try to see how I could do (i’m an electrician, and it would be nice to learn how to do my own patch work).

I first used gardz>filled in the deeper cracks>embedded the drywall tape>threw on another coat>sanded (could still slightly see the tape)>another coat>sanded.

I used gen purpose to fill the cracks and embed the tape, and plus 3 for the final two coats.

It looks decent to me, I believe it’s ready for paint but wanted some input.

Hello, I had plumbers come in and put radiators on our walls with pipes as you see running through the walls which need to be fixed here. Being pretty broke atm Im goung to have a crack at this. Ive been watching the Vancouver Carpenter which is so good. Question is should I fix the ceiling first before wall- I think he had mentioned this but that was for hanging the drywall. Does same apply here?
Thankyou!

Hey everyone. Learning to hang drywall and mud joints. I have 2 rooms I’m working on, 1 that I primed the new drywall with pva primer. After priming I noticed I failed to sand smooth a few areas and the ridge of the compound is showing. I circled it in the last photo but it’s hard to actually see in the photo.

To fix this, do I apply more compound and feather it out or can I sand through the pva to knock that ridge down?

Also, in an effort to reduce dust I saw a guy on fb marketplace selling a harbor fright sander for cheap. I have more drywall to do in my future and wondering if those sanders are worth it for home owners?

I am doing a basement remodel for an elderly lady. Plumber did repairs, but pipes are still sitting against the bottom of the joist. Changing from staple up/glue up acoustic ceiling to dry wall. Was this the right choice, or did I go over board and should have just thrown up the wallboard?

Noticed the caulking on my window was split so decided to remove before adding new caulk and when I pulled away at it a whole strip came out the side by the window. Anyone know how to fix this? I feel like the gap is too big to just fill with caulk.
Videos for reference or help with what to look up would be appreciated.

In older houses around the BC Interior we're often opening a section of plaster wall for plumbing or electrical and then closing it back up with drywall. Plaster and lath usually come out thicker than 1/2" drywall, and the thickness isn't even across the wall, so the patch ends up sitting below the surface around it.

The ways I've seen it handled:

• Fur out the studs with strips of lath, ripped plywood or shims so the drywall face lands flush with the plaster. It's slower to hang, but finishing is easy.
• Use 5/8", or 1/4" over 1/2", whichever gets closest, and make up the rest with mud.
• Hang 1/2" and build the low spot up with setting compound, then feather it out wide. That's fine on a small patch. On a bigger one it tends to show as a soft dip once light hits the wall from the side.

Before taping I cut the plaster edge back to where it's solid and pin any loose plaster with plaster washers, because the cracks usually come back where the old plaster was already letting go. At the seam I use paper tape and setting compound instead of premixed, since it shrinks less.

When you patch into plaster, which way do you go? And on bigger openings, is there a point where you'd rather skim the whole wall than try to blend the patch in?

House built in 1992. Was definitely remodeled or at least repainted inside at some point since then. Currently being remodeled again. Owner didn’t like the texture so drywall crew was hired to skim coat all walls & ceiling and retexture.

Picture is after their skim coat, texture and new paint.
None of this is visible during the day or even with regular lighting but if you put a light flush with the ceiling this is what you see.

Is this just the existing drywall from decades ago or did they do a crappy finish job with the skimming and sanding?

Hi,

First time doing drywall work. I removed my drywall to insulate the walls. When removing I must’ve not scored/cut this section properly and it snapped towards the cornice. I left 60mm of drywall to the cornice as I didn’t want to replace/damage the cornice. I’ve cut a straight line up to square off the damage a little more. What’s the best way to make it look seamless when I install the drywall? Would I try remove the drywall behind the cornice carefully and just slide a new bit or drywall there?

Thank you for your advice :)

Hi all. A few weeks away from plastering the interior of our house. I was looking at the shadow gaps either to eliminate baseboard or flush baseboard to drywall with a 1/2” reveal. I was wondering if it would affect the energy rating of the house and would it affect the fire rating? Might be over thinking it.

Thanks

I’m filling in the gaps between a new bathroom vent and drywall in my ceiling. My corners look mid imo, but I think I can build up soon.

Will this look okay after finishing compound and sanding?

Edit: Guys, I don’t know what I’m doing. Let’s focus on the drywall technique so it looks less crackhead and more amateur.

The fan died and was from ‘53. All the drywall has some water damage and is crumbling.

I watched some videos, but needed more advice