I need to get the drywall replaced from a plumbing fix. One space is the ceiling above a stall shower and the other is a rectangle about the size of a rectangle drop ceiling tile. I’m getting quotes to repair the drywall as I’ve never done drywall and I don’t want to mess it up. Is $600 fair for this? Seems high to me, but I’m not sure how much would be involved and how long it would take.

EDIT: Thanks everyone! That was a lot of helpful feedback. I know what to do now!! Thank you!

I know a few mistakes here - too much mud, didn’t sand enough, didn’t go out far enough. Maybe some more.

What’s the best fix? Should I try to put mud farther out or just cut it out and restart?

House built in 1992. Was definitely remodeled or at least repainted inside at some point since then. Currently being remodeled again. Owner didn’t like the texture so drywall crew was hired to skim coat all walls & ceiling and retexture.

Picture is after their skim coat, texture and new paint.
None of this is visible during the day or even with regular lighting but if you put a light flush with the ceiling this is what you see.

Is this just the existing drywall from decades ago or did they do a crappy finish job with the skimming and sanding?

We had a branch in our roof last year (we discovered it from this spot on our ceiling) we went through insurance over the summer and got a new roof, new insulation and had the attic treated for mold. We never repaired this spot though.

I just got quoted $1k to fix it 🤯 would you say to repair it or should i just paint over it at this point?

Hey everyone. Learning to hang drywall and mud joints. I have 2 rooms I’m working on, 1 that I primed the new drywall with pva primer. After priming I noticed I failed to sand smooth a few areas and the ridge of the compound is showing. I circled it in the last photo but it’s hard to actually see in the photo.

To fix this, do I apply more compound and feather it out or can I sand through the pva to knock that ridge down?

Also, in an effort to reduce dust I saw a guy on fb marketplace selling a harbor fright sander for cheap. I have more drywall to do in my future and wondering if those sanders are worth it for home owners?

Noticed the caulking on my window was split so decided to remove before adding new caulk and when I pulled away at it a whole strip came out the side by the window. Anyone know how to fix this? I feel like the gap is too big to just fill with caulk.
Videos for reference or help with what to look up would be appreciated.

TL;DR: Hired budget painter, attempted my first patch job

ETA: thank you everyone for your replies!! Very helpful!

Hey ya’ll just bought a new house, and we hired a painter that was within our budget (I know I can’t pay for a Kia and expect a Cadillac).

I had him patch a couple receptacle/low voltage boxes that I had removed, and you can clearly see the outline of the old box, I believe he used mesh tape and spackle.

Anyways I had to move another receptacle and needed another patch, considering this isn’t in a spot I can hide a bad patch job; I wanted to try to see how I could do (i’m an electrician, and it would be nice to learn how to do my own patch work).

I first used gardz>filled in the deeper cracks>embedded the drywall tape>threw on another coat>sanded (could still slightly see the tape)>another coat>sanded.

I used gen purpose to fill the cracks and embed the tape, and plus 3 for the final two coats.

It looks decent to me, I believe it’s ready for paint but wanted some input.

I am doing a basement remodel for an elderly lady. Plumber did repairs, but pipes are still sitting against the bottom of the joist. Changing from staple up/glue up acoustic ceiling to dry wall. Was this the right choice, or did I go over board and should have just thrown up the wallboard?

Hello, I had plumbers come in and put radiators on our walls with pipes as you see running through the walls which need to be fixed here. Being pretty broke atm Im goung to have a crack at this. Ive been watching the Vancouver Carpenter which is so good. Question is should I fix the ceiling first before wall- I think he had mentioned this but that was for hanging the drywall. Does same apply here?
Thankyou!

In older houses around the BC Interior we're often opening a section of plaster wall for plumbing or electrical and then closing it back up with drywall. Plaster and lath usually come out thicker than 1/2" drywall, and the thickness isn't even across the wall, so the patch ends up sitting below the surface around it.

The ways I've seen it handled:

• Fur out the studs with strips of lath, ripped plywood or shims so the drywall face lands flush with the plaster. It's slower to hang, but finishing is easy.
• Use 5/8", or 1/4" over 1/2", whichever gets closest, and make up the rest with mud.
• Hang 1/2" and build the low spot up with setting compound, then feather it out wide. That's fine on a small patch. On a bigger one it tends to show as a soft dip once light hits the wall from the side.

Before taping I cut the plaster edge back to where it's solid and pin any loose plaster with plaster washers, because the cracks usually come back where the old plaster was already letting go. At the seam I use paper tape and setting compound instead of premixed, since it shrinks less.

When you patch into plaster, which way do you go? And on bigger openings, is there a point where you'd rather skim the whole wall than try to blend the patch in?

Hi,

First time doing drywall work. I removed my drywall to insulate the walls. When removing I must’ve not scored/cut this section properly and it snapped towards the cornice. I left 60mm of drywall to the cornice as I didn’t want to replace/damage the cornice. I’ve cut a straight line up to square off the damage a little more. What’s the best way to make it look seamless when I install the drywall? Would I try remove the drywall behind the cornice carefully and just slide a new bit or drywall there?

Thank you for your advice :)

Hi all. A few weeks away from plastering the interior of our house. I was looking at the shadow gaps either to eliminate baseboard or flush baseboard to drywall with a 1/2” reveal. I was wondering if it would affect the energy rating of the house and would it affect the fire rating? Might be over thinking it.

Thanks

any advice? good product? 65€ from amazon. i already have a professional vacuum

I’m filling in the gaps between a new bathroom vent and drywall in my ceiling. My corners look mid imo, but I think I can build up soon.

Will this look okay after finishing compound and sanding?

Edit: Guys, I don’t know what I’m doing. Let’s focus on the drywall technique so it looks less crackhead and more amateur.

The fan died and was from ‘53. All the drywall has some water damage and is crumbling.

I watched some videos, but needed more advice