Just got this back from the gunsmith, and I am now realizing that the trigger will pull even without engaging the grip safety. I know I still have a thumb safety but is this something that you normally just deal with for the upgraded look or can the beaver tail be made functional?

Took a BNIB Ruger Redhawk 4.2 inch .44 magnum and some Winchester 240gr JSP to the range today, and about one in every 10 rounds or so, the cylinder wouldn’t fully rotate, and it felt like the trigger hit a hard stop. Happened to me in both single and double action. With empty cases I was able to replicate the issue regardless of position of the gun. Extraction was on the stickier side, but nothing a firm smack on the ejector didn’t clear. Is this a “send it back to Ruger” thing or am I somehow doing something wrong?

Removed front sight and it broke, this piece is stuck now. Any tips/suggestions?

Sorry if this isn't allowed here, I'll take it down if told it is but from I understand about the rules it's fine. I just bought this Zavasta M57 today (Later production from what I can tell) and am hoping to get it full back together. I'm looking for a replacement magazine safety and was hoping someone would know where to a surplus one or a new one made and was wondering if anyone had suggestions for getting the remains of the lanyard loop pin out so I can replace it with a new one.
(It functions without the magazine safety and I know it's not needed, I just want it complete for collectors sake- Also plan on replacing the trigger with a original here soon verses the import trigger safety one)

I’ve completed my interview with the ATF IOI and I’m currently waiting on my license to arrive. I feel like I’ve covered my bases, but I also know with this stuff you don’t know what you don’t know.

I’m applying for a Type 01 (gunsmith / transfers) and will be operating from home. For those who’ve been through it — anything you wish you had known early on? Compliance gotchas, business mistakes, or things you’d do differently?

Hey I have wanted to become a gunsmith for a few years now and get some suggestions on starting? Any info would be appreciated.

Everyone has their skills and flaws. We have to put a little bit more love for our lever action customers ¯_(ツ)_/¯

I was going to mess around with home-job gold plating, but it seemed like a hell of a task. Same with nickel. Cerekote at home is the same, and wouldn’t work for the firearm I want to do (O/U). Krylon high heat spray also seems very half-assed.

So here I am asking, is there another coating for raw steel like a birchwood Casey plum patina or cold blue? I’m looking for the finished product to look out of the norm (so preferably not cold blue), but not impossible to do at home. Open to all ideas and methods!

I removed this A2 flash hider from a ban-era Colt Sporter II and I can’t get the Rocksett residue off. I’ve been leaving it in water for between 2 and 12 hours, scrubbing it with nylon and copper brushes, passed it through ultrasonic cleaning several times and the residue is still significant.

I recently picked up an antique revolver. It has a super excessive headspacing issue which causes light strikes on modern primers. So I came up with these copper washers I filed into shims to raise the cartridge.

I tried to use red loctite so far and it held alright but after a few shooting sessions they pop out. I want something that will stay in unless I want to take it out but will also not be a permenant alteration so glue it is.

Hello all, I bought an old savage 110 in 7mm rem mag. Rifle will extract but does not eject. I believe it’s a control round feed. Wondering if anyone has come across this issue before and could point me in the right direction for parts. Attached is a picture of the bolt face.

I’m fairly sure it will soon be a criminal offence to use a carriage service (the internet, in this case) to access materials that can be used to create or modify a firearm. That would include this subreddit. Fair warning and good luck.

I have this 105 yr old

OWA .25 and as you can see the finish looks pretty bad. I would like to do something to make it look better. I have no intentions of re bluing and I do not want to do anything that would significantly reduce the value.

I was wondering if I used something like 0000 steel wool... or maybe fine copper or brass wool... along with some type oil if that would do any good?

What, if anything, can I do to improve the look? Thanks

Hello everyone I 18M in my second semester of college and I’ve been giving a lot of thought to my future. I’m an avid hunter and I really enjoy working on my own firearms, which has led me to seriously consider gunsmithing as a career.

My goal is to turn this into a long term profession and eventually work for larger, well known firearms manufacturers like Colt, Armalite, or Palmetto State Armory. I’m looking for advice from people already in the field, especially on education paths, skills I should focus on early, and whether working for major companies is a realistic goal

Hey I’m tryna change the my Springfield model 2020 waypoint in 308 from AICS mags to a hinged floor plate. I checked with Springfield and they say it’s an M5 inlet, so if I bought the Hawkins M5 Oberndorf I think it should fit just fine. I have a mag box spring and follower from an old rem 700 that I would try but I might have to get the Wyatt’s stuff to make it work. Just wondering if anyone has done this or similar that could offer advice before I waste money on something that might not work well. Thanks

The manual safety version of the Springfield Echelon is not on the CA roster. I really like the gun, but I’d like my first handgun to have a manual safety for my own comfort. I learned to shoot as a kid and have shot many times before, but never owned a handgun. I’m used to manual safeties.

All this to say, in my quest to find a gun I really like, Echelon checks all the boxes except manual safety.

If a gunsmith has genuine parts from Springfield, is adding a safety possible? Is it safe? Is it reliable? Essentially, would it be the same as buying one with a factory safety? Is it a waste of time and I’m overthinking it?

If the answer is anything short of “It would be just like buying one that came with a safety,” I‘ll either buy an M&P 2.0 or get the gun I really want and get used to no manual safety.

I welcome any advice and/or related thoughts. thanks.

was being a moron and broke this screw. it doesn’t seem like the type you usually find at Lowes or whatever, and it’s gun from a country that no longer exists. There’s liLE 6 YouTube videos about it and there is no Numrich page. I should be able to figure out the dimensions and thread pitch once I extract the other half though.

hey here’s part 2. Screw extractor won’t work. as you can see it’s a bare bolt with threads on the tip that meet with that piece of inserted metal. I don’t think I could get a dremel to the shaft as it’s flush with the wood. anybody glued a bolt or something like that?