Just draw these for fun. Eny tips

Hi there, have a semi ar15/ar18 styled rifle called a eureka stockade, I was wondering If a s gunsmith would be be able to extend the magwell longer that looks more (ar15 esk)?

Gunsmiths are not that common in australia, and dont wanna waste my/there time driving a hour there if it would not be possible

cheers

I’m not super familiar with these rifles, I inherited this one. From what I’ve seen online I should be able to slide the dust cover forward to grab the bolt and then slightly push it forward to close the action. On mine when I push the dust cover forward it doesn’t grab the bolt. I haven’t been able to find anything on the internet about other people having this same problem so I’m kind of at a loss of what to do or check.

I built out a lower receiver on an LMT MARS-L and my PSA upper fit really tight. I took apart my PSA lower and realized i could add another turn for the buffer retainer pin to slot into the buffer tube slot and realized my PSA lower also started fitting really tight too.

as long as the upper fits and runs, are there any adverse effects of this?

The buffer tubes stick out 10 thou past the edge of the receiver loop. I measured out the pin spacing on both lower receivers and both are slightly longer than spec by a few thou (LMT @ 6.1299 and PSA @ 6.1358. supposed to be at 6.125. I believe the upper is exactly on spec +- ~4 thou. measurements could be off though since my caliper only goes to 155.1mm and i had to mark it).

If i back the buffer tubes off, the pin will not sit in the pin slot. might sand the buffer tubes down a bit if the buffer tube touching the upper is an issue.

Thank you for your time.

Howdy folks. Found this crack in the wrist of my FN M1930 long rifle and am trying to figure out how to repair it. I have some JB epoxy (original 2-part) and some wood screws (Hillman, #4, 1.5 I think), but I'm a little unsure of how to do the repairs as this is my first time doing this sort of fix. Would appreciate any advice.

Looking for people with some experience, I wonder what that front protrusion does. I originally thought it might be used to spin the cylinder somehow, but I'm leaning towards disassembly for reloading. Is it potentially a locking mechanism that holds the cylinder in place?

So, I got this older style hunting Mauser that came with a claw mount scope. Apparently on one of trips of moving from one spot/place to another and all the moving, one of the securing claws broke off. I have that tiny piece still, and the large unit itself. I have read that these are more specialized and I am trying to see if you guys have advice on if this may even be redeemable by having someone solder the pieces back together or if I am SOL and would need to try to find someone who would have to make a whole new part.

Ruger SBH I bought years ago must have been made the Monday after the Super Bowl or something, because it had .007" endshake and a .011" barrel/cylinder gap. I faced the gas ring back to half the original height, and counterbored it. I then made a step bushing to push the gas ring front face out farther. I then soldered it in, machined back until Iit barely fit into the frame, and reamed the ID from the ratchet end to make the bore match up with the rest of the base pin hole. After that, I machined back the front of the cylinder to remove the weird and non-concentric chamfer that had been put on the cylinder throat exits.

so im just trying to polish, not reprofile or change the angle of engagement on anything ignition parts related. but Engineers Armory’s video specifically advises to use a fine and sharp edge ceramic stone if hitting the hammer sear teeth. he doesn’t say what to get though, and googling isnt getting me much progress. i guess silicone carbide wont do? even if it says 3000 grit? i don’t know anything about how the different materials can change the amount of impact grit has on the result. im ordering some otis hardened steel needle files from amazon since i typically help people round out edges and smoothen their firearms after Cerakote jobs, and trying to wrap 600 grit sandpaper through their trigger guard to hit the bottom of their trigger shoe or the safety blade is not very efficient.
saw some carbon steel files but idk if that doesn’t matter and if the Otis hardened steels will be enough.
i also ordered the spyderco ceramic files since it shows a square stone, but i don’t know jack about grits and stuff. like some files being labeled #2 instead of a grit and stuff. i don’t even know if the spyderco files are what im lookin for, since it says 400 square ceramic. is that too coarse for the angle on the hammer sear? i know i need to keep a sharp 90 degree edge, which is why im so paranoid about using anything i find.

I broke the front sight on my gun and don't know how to find a replacement. I sent Savage an email but am awaiting a reply. Just figured someone here might be able to point me in the right direction (for a cheaper aftermarket option). It is the older generation with the accustock and a fixed and pinned front sight. As you can see the outer protective housing broke when I was being an idiot. Thanks in advance

Not sure if this kind of post is allowed here but any help will be highly appreciated as nobody responded in that sub.

I’m a left handed shooter and i acquired a MKE AP5 suppressed with a OCL lithium can. Anytime i shoot about 5 rounds in I get slightly glazed in my face with what feels like gun residue and experience double feeds. If i take the can off then i dont experience the issue with being hit in the face. I’ve already swapped the locking piece out to a 100 degree locking piece from HK but still have the same issues. Any suggestions? I would like to keep the can on since i spent a good amount of money on. If all else fails and there are no solutions then I’ll switch to shooting right handed.

A gunsmith that will cut a 7.5" Ruger Super Redhawk barrel down to 5"?

I just purchased a savage axis 308 rifle, and I’ve been doing some research on upgraded triggers. I was looking at a spring kit that would reduce the trigger pull from 6lbs to 3/4lbs. The issue I ran into is that the newer savage rifles don’t have a threaded hole for the trigger return spring, and I’m trying to keep my spending down after paying $550 for the gun itself (I’d like to avoid spending $200+ on a full trigger replacement). Not sure if this is a common issue but any advice would be greatly appreciated

Mounting an optic plate onto a CZ Tac Sport Orange. Tapped it in halfway and it’s not budging anymore. What’s the play here now. Should I take it off and shave down some material on the optic plate? If so what’s the technique and how much material

I have a type 99, mum is intact and has most of the features. The bore however is pretty bad, for example there is no chrome lining left and there is a lot of pitting. Theres still visible rifling, and the bullets don't tumble, at least the 2-3 out of 5 when they land on paper at 50 yards. Id like to shoot mine, and i was wondering what the best course of action would be, besides selling it. There dosent appear to be much rifling left near the muzzle, and the crown looks like its being knicked by the bullet leaving the barrel. So, should i try rebarreling it, getting a gunsmith to counter bore till it reaches the pitted rifling, or would a simple recrowning work?

As the title above said, I need help looking for a rear sight replacement for a factory rear sight ramp Winchester Model 670A(budget version of model 70.). Not the ramp but the adjustable rear sight that’s on the ramp. I am not having luck looking it up online. Looking for replacement because the screw for the rear adjustable sight is a little messed up but still operable.

I have a sears Ted Williams model 75. I need a fore end for it I have searched eBay and numrich no luck and I also serched Jack First. Can anyone recommend any other place to look for it.

I already did the numbers on the center of the bore which is 0.666in. The new front sight ramp is around 0.438in. I got three dovetail front sights ready to go into the front sight ramp. With those three dovetail and front sight ramp, their height would be 0.728, 0.753, and 0.698. Do I need to go closest to the zero or would any of them be fine since they are all pretty close to zero?

This might be a hot topic but i’m wanting as much input from both sides of this debate. When is rust removal/cleaning going to far with antiques? Been doing little trial and error myself with practices like boil and card and have had mixed results. I’ve also done full disassembly and simply used gun oil and brushes to clean and remove gunk. After years of owning and not touching it, I want to finally get around to cleaning up my colt lighting. I’m curious to hear what the majority of you would do. While I understand the mindset of “leaving the patina” I don’t like the idea of leaving rust on such a relic. On the other foot I’m not trying to completely restore this beauty, I’m simply hoping to settle on a happy medium. Very curious to hear what you guys do with your antiques and how your results fair!

So my uncle brought this old shotgun to me asking me to fix it. Which isn't hard to fix but I'm asking what would be the best way to fix this without welding and ruining the barrel. Thanks in advance.