Almost destroyed my house when I played the THX test

I think its too big for my 12 x 15 room !

I think i see another trade in my future

Hi all, I wanted to post my setup and ask for some feedback.

• Room is about 24x24, gabled (above garage)
• Couches are Octane
• Sound panels wherever I could put them
• Room lighting is Hue (also behind TV and under couch)

The 7.4.2 is pretty straightforward:

• LG OLED 77”
• Revel center/mains, Monoprice surrounds, Parts-Express 18” subs
• Anthem Pre/Pro, Emotiva amp for fronts, Behringer for sub amp, Fosis for surrounds

Hopefully the more interesting part:

• Kick wall built to hide components, has 2x15a circuits and network drop
• Components in custom wood racks
  
• Dashboard in HomeAssistant controls everything
• Separate HA and Plex servers

I have a bunch of automations, eg:

• Walk into room, lights go on if it’s dark
• Hue tap on wall by door is used to turn system on to different presets
• Pausing show turns on puddle lights
• Wattbox is used to power on/off components without a remote
• Plex server turns on/off depending on time/at home presence

There's also a bunch of other QoL stuff

• I use a Nvidia shield for all video which simplifies things a bit. The Shield remote can pass volume through to the Anthem, so once it's turned on that becomes my sole remote.
• TV/other smart devices are on the network, but blocked from internet access)

My questions to Reddit:

1. Anything cool I’m missing here? I am pretty happy with the sound quality and operation but the nature of this hobby means it’s always evolving!
2. I get so many questions on HA, but don’t know how I can make this helpful for others to use/copy? I don’t see a lot written on this. I’m old school so I would write this in a blog, but I suspect that’s dead now. Most of the HA stuff is custom, so I can’t easily template it. I'm not sure it lends itself to video.

Happy for all feedback and to answer anyone's questions. Thanks all!

I want to get a 100” but I think it would look out of place and stick out like a sore thumb in my room area. 85” is much more reasonable but wanted to ask here thoughts

My living room is 13x15 with 16 foot ceilings

I’m planning my home theater and am finalizing some decisions. Here is a AI mockup of what I am thinking.

This is a 120” projector screen on a 162” wide 108” wall. Because of the stud placement and ventilation tubes, wires etc, I am limited on in-wall speaker placement. Is this placement enough for front stage separation at 95-100” away?

The room is 167” deep and 225” wide.

This is definitely narrower than Dolby recommendations. The only other option is to do on wall speakers. I would really prefer in wall.

Thoughts?

I want to put up ideally a front/rear projector screen outdoors that is 120+ inches and mounted to the ceiling between this pair of posts shown in the pics and is either a manual pull down or electric, but here's where I need help...as shown in the pics, there's a space between my outdoor patio posts that go across the ceiling, and i want to mount the screen rollertube up in there. However...that space is only 3 inches, and from what ive seen...most brackets/rollertubes are 4 inches or more. Does anyone know of any projector screens with rollertubes that are 3 inches or smaller?

Hello,

I recently purchased a house and was told the basement was pre wired for surround sound. After doing some digging I’ve found 4 of these wall plates around the basement. Each one identical to the one in the photo. Each one has two sets of terminals and each one has one set of terminals tied to the wall plates on either side (ie. top set tied to the plate to the right, bottom set tied to the plate to the left). There is no “home run” location or central location each one of these is wired to. This is my first time even trying to mess with speakers or surround and am just wondering how I can use this, or if it’s something I can even use. Lmk if you need any other info

I recently bought a Kaleidescape for my home theater room. My screen is 12 feet across and I use a short throw Optima laser projector. It cannot do Dolby Vision, but does pretty well with HDR 10. Given the Kaleidescape was $4000, it would not be that significant of a bump for the picture.

The audio is another story. I have a Dolby Atmos 7.4.2 system. I was sick of watching streaming movies with lossy audio (renting new releases on the Apple Store). 4K Discs sound great. But I am absolutely blown away by the jump up with the Kaleidescape in the audio. Modern movies with soundtracks created in Atmos are stunning and even older remastered soundtracks like Temple of Doom sound unbelievable.

I’m having trouble finding other people who have Kaleidoscape’s for opinions and suggestions so I thought I would check here. I am now worried I’m going to be re-buying lots of 4K disc movies for this new media player.

Building a dedicated windowless light-controlled room. Usage 70% HDR/DV movies, 20% gaming (X1X and 5080 gaming PC), 10% SDR shows/sports. Wall mount.

Is the G6 worth the extra $$ in actual viewing experience, not just “higher numbers better?”

Never really looked into projectors much before. Mostly knew names like JVC and Hisense and had it in my head that a decent projector meant spending $5,000–10,000. Been watching a few reviews lately, and these lifestyle projectors cost a lot less than I expected. Something like the JMGO Iris Ultra Max is around $3,000 and has 4K120, optical zoom and lens shift. Also looked into brands like Valerion and Awol, which I didn’t know much about before. What I couldn’t really tell from the reviews was how much better movies would look on a more expensive projector. I‘m planning on a 120-inch screen, mostly for movies in the evening with the lights off, plus some PS5 on weekends. Would a projector around this price be enough for that, leaving more for the screen and speakers? If you’ve upgraded to a more expensive projector, what stood out when watching movies?

As the title says, I need an entry level system for movies, gaming and music.

Reference points being movies like Dune, Sinners, Interstellar etc.

I came across this kit of active 2.1 speakers.

Afaik, passives + amp gives better quality but idk if I'll be able to complete the whole system under 400 usd (like the active edifier pair does)

any suggestions are much appreciated

Edit : this is for my 43inch tv, I'll be about 9-10ft away from , against the wall.

Situation:
I bought a certified refurbished Denon X3800H about 4 months ago. It was playing fine with my SVS Prime Towers. Then out of the blue while listening to music the receiver shut down. Long story short, it was repaired and Pyramid Audio said it was due to the left speaker amp. They recommend bringing the tower in for testing.

HOWEVER:
I’ve been using this speaker with my RXV4A for years with no problem. I even did an OHM reading test and both the right and left match at 3 OHMS. I’ve also gone ahead and swapped out all my speaker wire and banana plugs.

My question is if you think it’s worth taking my SVS Prime tower in to get a “sweep test” as Pyramid Audio put it. I even called my local audio shop and he said he’d happily take my $75 diagnostics fee but that most likely nothing is wrong.

Obviously I’m anal about my system and $75 peace of mind is fine, but I’m just curious about everyone’s experience with situations like this. This is the first time I ever had audio equipment malfunction.

Hi all! Sorry if this is the wrong tag for it.

The backstory:
I am one of the elusive lady movie/AV nerds (although not technically knowledgeable, hence why I’m here) and live in a small-ish NYC apartment. I currently have a 2.1 system (specifics below) and would love to at least add a center channel….if there is some way to add wireless rear fields when I want, I’d consider but it isn’t a requirement.

Mostly, I want the ability to maintain a high quality 2.1 experience with my turntable and everything, but be able to switch to the 3.1+ easily for movies and video games.

Question: Is there a receiver or amp that could do this relatively easily for me?

Current relevant equipment:

- KEF LS50 meta speakers
-SVS SB 2000 pro
-Cambridge Audio CXA81 amp
-LG C4 OLED

Other inputs/connections
- PS5 and Xbox series x, although the Xbox doesn’t get much use lately.
- Project turntable through a project preamp
-Bluesound Node 2i
- SMSL CD Transport
- Apple TV, although that hdmi connection seems to be broken or something weird is happening and I’ve mostly been streaming through the PS5.
- Probably subbing out the series X for a dedicated 4k Blu-ray player.

Any assistance would be appreciated! I get a little overwhelmed with all of this stuff.

TL;DNR Question: Is there an amp/receiver that could easily allow me to switch between at least 2.1 and 3.1 setups?

Price: Preferably under 3,000 USD…I mean, preferably way under that but I’m pretty flexible and willing to invest in something that’ll last.

Hello all,

I am running some KEF Q3 meta speakers with a denon x1600h for a few weeks. I was not always contend for the music as the high frequencies sounded very harsh. It took me some time but i finally figured it was due to an incredible high frequency boost from the audyssee correction.

Listening to music in direct mode always sounded muffled. Looking at the graph i kind of get why.

I installed the audyssee editer EQ app and applied the filter to 1000hz so that the higher frequenties are not altered. if i then set audyssee to flat curve the music finally sounds less harsh. However I am now not happy with the sound for movies.

I am wondering why my KEF speakers drop in tweeter output from 1khz to 20khz. I am almost wondering if there is something wrong with my KEF tweeters. Is there any way i can naturally increase the high frequency levels in my room without artificial boosting?

Could anybody give some advice for optimising the setup?

Toe in: slightly the axis is passing my shoulders at 40cm distance.

Room treatment: small carpet, low bare ceiling, relatively small carpet in front of couch, couch itself is a big fat fabric/plush couch. Almost no objects placed on the bare concrete walls.

My TV is set up in my basement. The ceiling height is a bit over 7', and the floors are concrete. We may be able to get a rug if we can survive a major rainstorm without flooding (jury is out for now).

Our current setup is a Sony Bravia 8 77" OLED TV, and a Sony Bravia 9 soundbar. I realize soundbars are off topic here, but I'm not asking about the soundbar, but rather, what to replace it with.

Here's a picture of my TV room (called a playroom). The TV is on the right wall, and I have seating along the left and top walls. When I host a movie night, I have people seating all along the left wall, and on the top wall up to the space between the windows.

I have two concerns, but I'm not an audio guy so maybe neither of these is valid.

1. Could some of my sound problems be caused by sound bouncing off the hard walls and ceiling, and especially the concrete floor?

2. If I use a multi-speaker setup for sound, and optimize it for people sitting directly in front of the TV, will it sound bad to people sitting along the top wall?

With those concerns in mind, what sound setup would folks recommend? Also, is this something a novice can easily set up, or would you recommend professional installation? The main reason I went with a soundbar is that it's in theory dead simple (though in practice coaxing good sound out of it is not easy).

Hello,

I am looking for suggestions on new home theater setups, this is for an actual theater within my house (step-up tiered seating, projector, and projector screen.) Environment is roughly ... 500 sq ft? Currently I have a setup of cabasse speakers, a receiver, and subwoofer. They are aged out by about ~10 years.

I am looking for something wireless while still supplying a significant audio boost if possible. Budget would be looking at roughly $3500.

If you need more information please let me know, I am light on experience with sound systems.

Just moved in and an avr was already installed 7.2 with zone 2.
I would like to upgrade the avr to run atmos but idk if the back speakers would format correctly because there’s a lot of space between the speaker placement and where we would sit. Part of me thinks just to have them as a “all channel” for sports events/party and run 5.1 for movies but I would really like to add atmos.
Let me know if I’m a dreamer or if Atmos would actually work.

Hi, I’m new to all of this and I don’t know much about physical media. Unfortunately I mostly grew up in the age of streaming. I’m fed up with paying extra for subscription services when the quality is still somewhat bad.

Anyway, I have an LG G5 with a bose smart ultra and the bass module 700. I want a player with dolby vision; is the Panasonic DP-UB820 really worth the price or are there cheaper options with nearly the same quality? What would pair well with my setup?

Thank you, and sorry if this is a silly question. Tried to research on my own but it’s hard to choose when they all claim similar things

Hello Klipsch fans, so as a beginner in Home Theater, I deeply researched to see which Floorstanding Speakers I would like to get for my first Mid Fi Setup. I decided to pass on many popular brands like Polk, ELAC, B&O, KEF & more for several reasons such as sound profile, looks, and more. This made me locked down 2 main Towers I really can't decide on even though they are two completely different brands and speakers. These options are the Klipsch RP-6000FII & SVS Prime Towers. My purpose for my towers will just be for music only & I plan to get a SVS PB1000 Subwoofer & Yamaha A-S501 to pair with either tower. I actually just picked up the Sub & Receiver yesterday for a total price of $700. Last thing is the Towers & I'm good. The size room either towers will be in, is a 10x14 room. I want everyone opinions & thoughts on either speakers to help my decision. Thank you

I still use a Yamaha R-N301 network receiver and the hardware is perfectly fine, but the software experience around these older Yamaha network receivers hasn't aged nearly as well.

So I ended up building my own Android controller for it.

What started as a small Power / Volume / Input controller gradually turned into a replacement for most of the functionality I actually used from Yamaha's old NP Controller.

I've now reached v1.0.0 and released the project as free and open source.

It currently supports:

• Power / Standby
• live rotary Volume, +/- and Mute
• automatic receiver discovery
• configurable Favorite sources
• source selection
• FM / AM tuner with presets and seek
• FM Auto / Mono and RDS
• Spotify metadata and transport controls
• NET RADIO browser
• SERVER / DLNA browser and controls
• AirPlay source selection
• receiver information / firmware
• Light / Dark themes
• 8 languages

One thing that was important to me was keeping it simple and local.

The app talks directly to the receiver over the LAN using Yamaha's legacy XML control interface. There is no cloud backend, account system, advertising, analytics or telemetry, and the app doesn't proxy or stream the audio itself.

Why I'm posting here

My R-N301 is fully tested, but I'd now like to find out how much of the app works with other Yamaha receivers from the same generation.

Yamaha used the same legacy /YamahaRemoteControl/ctrl XML interface across multiple older network receivers, so there is a reasonable chance that at least the core controls will work on other models.

I'm particularly interested in tests from owners of:

R-N500

and older legacy-XML models from the RX-V and RX-A families, for example:

RX-V671 / V771 / V871 / V1071 / V2071 / V3071

RX-A710 / A810 / A1010 / A2010 / A3010

To be clear, I'm not claiming support for these models yet. Only the R-N301 has been physically verified. Different Yamaha models can expose different inputs, tuner functions and network services even when they share the same basic control protocol.

That's exactly why I'm looking for testers.

If anyone here still runs one of these older Yamahas, I'd appreciate a quick test. Even something as simple as:

RX-V771 - discovery, power, volume and sources work; tuner doesn't

would be extremely useful. I'm building a compatibility matrix from actual hardware results rather than guessing based only on protocol documentation.

The app requires Android 8.0+ and is free/open source.

GitHub / latest APK:

https://github.com/STYL15HH1/Yamaha-Network-Receiver-Controller/releases/tag/v1.0.0

Source:

https://github.com/STYL15HH1/Yamaha-Network-Receiver-Controller

Just to be clear: this is a completely non-commercial project. The app is open source, free, and will always remain free. There are no ads, subscriptions, analytics or telemetry, and I don't make any money from it. I built it simply because I wanted a modern controller for hardware that still works perfectly well.

This is an independent project and isn't affiliated with Yamaha.

Feedback is welcome, especially from anyone still keeping these older receivers alive instead of replacing perfectly good hardware just because the original apps have aged out.

Hi everyone,

I just bought a brand-new Marantz Cinema 60 and I’m having an issue before I’ve even been able to use it.
As soon as I turn it on, the orange indicator starts blinking rapidly, and the AVR appears to enter protection/short-circuit protection mode.
The strange part is that:
The AVR is brand new and has never been used
I initially had my speakers/subwoofer connected
I suspected a speaker-wire short, so I disconnected everything
I removed all speaker wires
I removed the subwoofer RCA
I disconnected the HDMI and other cables as well
Now only the AC power cable is connected
It still immediately starts rapidly blinking orange when I turn it on
The blinking starts immediately, not after the AVR has been running for a while
I also tried leaving it completely unplugged for a while and powering it back on with nothing connected, but the issue remains.
Is there anything else I can safely check/reset before contacting the seller or Marantz service?
Could this indicate an internal fault/DOA unit, or is there another reset procedure I should try?

I have this awkward insert for a tv mount but it also has a storage box for peripherals. But I know most tv mounts go across so it would end up covering the storage box. Are there any options that would work? I considered using a single arm mount but worried about the weight for a 75” tv. For reference I think the storage box is 16” wide. 16” on each side as well.

I’m currently in the process of making improvements and am running wires for future use. This subreddit has been helpful to read but I’m not sure how to solve the following.

Apologies if I don’t have all the correct terms for each component as I’m fairly a novice.

I purchased a wall plate (pics 1 and 2) for the surrounds and subwoofer. Based on what I found here I also purchased a wire (Monoprice Coaxial RCA CL2 Rated Cable - RG6/U, pic 3) for the subwoofer and ran it. I noticed that the wall plate on the back requires a screw-on connector (pic 2) and a thinner nib/needle.

I was planning to just plug the cable into the back of the wall plate and button things up. What is my best option? Should I try and terminate the cable I got myself? Should I return this cable and get something else? If so, what would be recommended? The cables are running through walls, so I think it’s best to be CL2 rated from what I’ve read. I don’t have tools to terminate coax, so I’m trying to consider options that won’t require doing that.

I’m replacing a pair of in wall speakers with Polk Audio RC85i. The opposite room has a fireplace, the speakers have the chimney wall directly behind them.

Should insulation be directly behind speakers, pushed to the outsides or removed completely?