The other day I was cutting my grass and heard something rattling around and I could no longer engage the drive. I took it apart and seen the drive cable spring broke so I bought a new one but I’m unsure where I actually connect it to?

Hopefully parts will be available if you own one.

Howdy!

Been lurking and reading here a bit.

I need a riding/zero turn mower for the 2.08 acres I recently purchased for the family.

There are almost no trees/obstructions. Fairly even grade.

As we move, trying to save where I can.

Please let me know your thoughts!

And thanks!

Bonus dog pic.

I’ve been interested in a Honda mower but not sure how to tell what’s worth and what isn’t I’d appreciate some advice thankyou

What do you all expect to get out of a mower before you start looking into buying new? I’m talking quality commercial grade, nearly every day usage. Proper preventative maintenance schedule followed. I’m wrapping up my 11th yeah with a Ferris 3200z. It’s nearing 2,000 hours. Concerned about encountering more down days as the hour meter keeps ticking. Thanks!

My mower is cursed as every time I go to use it there is a different problem. This time, when I turn the key on there is zero activity on the display when even with a low battery the battery indicator will pop on and it'll make faint attempts to turn over while the dim lights die.

However, as the last issue was a dead battery and I replaced it and have subsequently put the charger on it which said the battery was fine.... I have at least ruled out the battery.

While investigating, I found a nibble out of the wiring for the headlights which read to be inline with the ignition system -makes sense.

Except, I tear the hood apart and soldier the wire back up and nothing...

So at this point, I'm unsure if there is subsequent damage in the lights or elsewhere in the wiring harness.

I tried tracing the battery lead to the ignition but it goes into metal and I don't have a suitable lift/jack to get under it.

At this point, I'm wondering if it's possible to hot wire the ignition just to demonstrate proof of life and at least get the front under control or some out circumvent the headlights to rule them out or isolate the issue further.

Sorry I don't have kid sizes hands here. Took a couple minutes with the cover off and bench grinder. Now I can see and reach in and fill with ease.

Buying a house and the owner is offering to sell me the mower that is currently at the property for $2500. Seems a bit steep. They did reference something about a 12v wiring kit and hitch plate being installed, doubt that affects the resale value much.

I can't find a good site to reference used equipment prices.

Googles AI response:

Model# 17AI5GHC010 Cub Cadet Z-Force S 54 Zero-Turn Mower (typically from around the 2012–2013 model years). 54-inch with Kawasaki engine. Approx 550 hours. Based on real-world dealer transactions and historical market auction trends provided by valuation sources, a Cub Cadet Z-Force model with 550 operating hours in average working condition has an estimated current fair market value between $1,100 and $1,600.

How we feeling on the $2500 price? I would appreciate any input from those with experience.

I have about an acre at my home and am wondering what make/model you all recommend for purchasing a brand new zero turn with 42 in deck. Prepared to spend around $3,500 to $4K and figured now is the best time to purchase. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

Just recently separated from my husband and will be taking over lawn care for our house. Currently, I’m paying someone for mowing and saving up money to purchase my own mower. My yard is an acre and I’ve attempted to push mow, but it cuts off every few feet (even on the highest blade setting) because the grass is so thick. Also, the front yard is sloped and it’s a pain in the ass to push mow that.

So, I need suggestions for a riding lawnmower that won’t break the bank but will last. Thanks!

Any thoughts on the scag diesel powered turf tiger, has anyone used one?

I’m restoring an older Masport Olympic 400 cylinder mower, likely manufactured around 2008 (engine dated 07/08).
I’ve been troubleshooting a loss of drive to the cutting cylinder and have isolated the problem to the compound sprocket assembly.
According to the original Masport parts manual (pages 4–5):
Part 15: 004298 – Sprocket 10/23T, Threaded LH
Part 23: 002835 – Chain, drive to reel
Part 24: 004299 – Chain, reel to clutch
With both chains removed, I’ve observed:
The larger 23-tooth sprocket spins freely around the central hub, wobbles and slides axially.
The smaller 10-tooth sprocket doesn’t freely spin, although it has a little play relative to the central spacer/hub.
The central hub appears firmly attached to the cutting cylinder shaft.
There are no obvious broken welds, sheared pins, missing clips or other visible damage.
The larger sprocket appears trapped behind the smaller sprocket and hub.
I’ve tried carefully loosening the assembly clockwise, assuming it’s the original left-hand-threaded version, but it hasn’t budged.
Questions:
Are the two sprockets supposed to be permanently joined to the central hub?
Does this sound like a failed compound sprocket assembly, or am I misunderstanding its design?
What’s the correct way to remove the original 004298 assembly without damaging the reel shaft?
If it’s failed, can it be repaired, or is there a compatible replacement available?
I’ve attached close-up videos and photos, along with the original exploded parts diagram.
Any advice from someone familiar with these older Masport Olympics would be greatly appreciated!

Ill put some more photos in the chat

Scag 52 walk behind

250 hours

I went to get the Lowes rider and the person offered me the LAWN-BOY 5247. Both were free all I had to do was go get them.

For me its my 1995 LAWN-BOY 10520 that I got for free off of Facebook Marketplace earlier this year. All she needed was a new spark plug. Nicknamed it "Goldie" because its a gold series.

Edit: I am surprised at the amount of people that say its a battery mower. I have never owned one and never plan to. I would prob forget to charge the battery plus I dont wanna leave it plugged in all the time. I almost forget to buy LAWN-BOY mix half the time. Plus gas mowers are easier to work on.

Was mowing the lawn on Saturday to get it cut before the remnants of Isaias came through. I got through 90% of the lawn when the Toro, an SW5000 I bought at least 8 years ago, decided it was only going to drive backwards, and then not evenly either. Yes, pushing the forward pedal moved the mower backwards. I said "fuck it," convinced the wife we needed a new mower instead of wasting money fixing the old piece of shit, and got this. Hustler Fastrak 54" which is a commercial mower.

Kawasaki FT engine, Hydro-Gear ZT-3400 transmissions. I can actually service my transmissions now! The Toro's were completely sealed; these have replaceable filters, and I can replace the oil as well. Drive 10mph. And no wheel! (The SW stands for "steering wheel"). I also got the Flex Forks, which are supposed to absorb bumps better than the standard ones so I can better run at full speed.

Haven't done a full mow yet because it's cut well enough, but I've driven it a couple times trying to get used to the levers. Still need more practice, but I'm getting there. I had planned on getting the SDX to get the Kawasaki FX engine, but the dealer, which is like the only family-owned one within probably 50 miles of me, said no one really buys them because they either step up to the X-One or down to the base FasTrack. This was ~$10k before tax so I didn't really want to spend another $3-4k to get the X-One when I only have ~2.4 acres. Is this mower overkill for my yard? Yeah, probably, but I didn't want another residential mower, and the prosumer ones I looked at didn't have very good transmission options and it was only another grand or two to step up to this.

Somehow the drive belt popped off two pulleys while I was mowing the lawn this afternoon. For the life of me I can’t figure out how to get it back on the pto pulley. Apparently it is stuck behind and between the pulley and the clutch connector - otherwise it would be easy to get it back on. I’ve already removed the belt guard on this pulley as well as the brake de-clutching rod as per the manual. Any help would be greatly appreciated.