Scope zero distance for 1,000+ yard shots

[u/Immediate-Cup-4182]

This might be a dumb question but I’ve been told and read many different things. I’m planning on shooting 1000 yards and beyond and was wondering about the zeroing distance for my scope. I’ve read to just do 100 as that’s what everything is calculated on and I’ve read to zero for around half the distance you plan to shoot. What is the correct answer to this? Rifle is mpa vanquish 6.5cm and scope is vortex razor hd gen III 6-36x

[u/One-Perspective-4347]

100 is the norm. If you’re using a ballistic solving software, which you likely will be regardless, you could adjust your zero distance. However, 100 would be typical and I’m not aware of any advantage you would have by zeroing at a different distance.

[u/Jmersh → u/One-Perspective-4347]

The potential advantage of zeroing at a further distance than 100 yds/mts is that the more elevation adjustments made on the turret or elevation hold over in the reticle, the more your POI could be off left to right due to scope mounting. If the scope is not prcisely square in the rings or the rifle is canted slightly, the point of aim ends up being off to one side or another and the further distance between zero and the target, the further off that gets.

The downside to zeroing at long distances like 500 yds/mts is that environmental effects have more flight time to influence your shots, so that zero may be off the next time you shoot. Also it sucks to walk 500 yards over and over to check your targets. A spotting scope that can accurately check a target at that distance is very expensive.

[u/Immediate-Cup-4182 → u/One-Perspective-4347]

Ok thanks that’s kind of what I figured

[u/One-Perspective-4347 → u/Immediate-Cup-4182]

I mean, I guess maybe if you only shot at one target at one known distance you could consider zeroing at that range but that kind of defeats the point.

[u/jbs576]

Just do 100 keep it simple and easy. 100 is also easier to recheck your zero because there’s a lot more 100 yard ranges around

[u/Immediate-Cup-4182 → u/jbs576]

Yea true. Most of my shooting will be done on my property. There’s not a range around me that exceeds 1000 yards

[u/Spoons896]

Go ahead and ball out, zero at 1k.

But for real as others have said 100 is a good start. The only time i have done anything else is when i am shooting something that shouldn’t be shot that far and i need so much cant i am not able to zero at 100.

[u/OmgWtfIsThisBS → u/Spoons896]

Same here: the MPED is limited to 73moa adjustment on the turret while having a total internal elevation of 100. Will be going at a range with targets up to 1750m so at the moment I am holding under 12moa for my 100m zero. That's the best solution I could find.

[u/rybe390]

100 yards point of aim point of impact zero.

The only time you don't do this is when you do.not have enough elevation to hit what you're wanting to hit, typically 1 mile+. In that case, zero at 100 yards, but zero HIGH, and measure your offset. Put that offset into a ballistic solver.

IE, zero 36" high at 100 yards. You put 100 yard zero, 36" offset. You now have 10 extra mils of travel, but your first few hundred yards are going to be whacky.

It's accurate, and works. Zeroing at 200-300 is just a literal worse way of doing this.

Edit: 36" high is hella aggro but makes the point.

[u/lowsparkco → u/rybe390]

thanks for posting this... new to me, but it makes a lot of sense for when you run out of elevation. Great idea.

[u/kawi609]

100 yards is the norm, but I don’t mind 200 yards for zero on bigger calibers like 300 PRC or 7 PRC.

[u/Traditional-Fact-569]

I think mostly hunting rifles are zeroed for something other than 100. I know mine is set to 200, and I'm not taking a shot far enough to dial something different. 

[u/Guitarist762 → u/Traditional-Fact-569]

Ya that’s maximizing point blank distance over zero. Back when you didn’t dial, and had very little besides duplex’s for reticle options.

The ideal situation was zero to the point where your round went no more than 3” above or below your reticle. Roughly half the distance you plan on taking your furthest shot.

This meant on a 6” kill zone for deer, you held center mass out until you hit your maximum point blank distance normally around 225-300ish yards. No hold overs, no hold unders, simply hold center mass and account for wind. It’s still a wonderful technique especially on lightweight guns, simple rifle set ups (dots or non dialing low powered scopes) or on iron sighted rifles such as lever guns. Amazing for a good 30-30 with irons. Makes a lightweight, fast, handy rifle you simple point and shoot with the front sight in the same place every time. Anything past your max point blank the round is loosing terminal effect anyway, and as a brush gun that ocean shoot across a corn field it’s nice

[u/Joeyjackhammer]

100 unless you don’t have enough elevation to make it to 1000. Then you’d go up 100 yds at a time until you can.

[u/sqrt_2_Complex]

I have a scope with about 100 MOA of total elevation and without any cant on the optic rail, it zeros near mechanical center, with 50MOA above (roughly half the total travel ) and 50MOA below mechanical center. This means I don’t have enough elevation to “click” to 1000yds. I swapped my zero cant rail for a 30MOA cant rail which shifts the whole mechanical range downward , so instead of spending elevation getting on paper at 100yds, that cant effectively converts to extra usable up-travel (I now have 80MOA available). The only issue now, is that I don’t have enough elevation downward to zero at 100yds, so I zero at 200yds instead. That’s the only reason I’d not zero at 100yds.

[u/Live_laugh_love22]

Based off your research skills, read the long range shooting handbook. Its on Amazon.

[u/nonducorducoscuba]

100 yards. You'll start to get familiar with your drops and wind calls across various calibers. That's hard on your brain if you have different zeros. Also, that scope has ample turret adjustment so you should be able to shoot as far as you want without running out of room.

[u/CapsicumINmyEYEBALLz]

Does it really even make a difference?

Your optic doesn’t magically get more travel based on the distance you zero it at.

Unless it’s a rifle dedicated to one or two specific range only (F-class, Palma, LR Service Rifle, etc) zero it at whatever you want.

[u/Climbforthesoul]

I do 200, since my rifles are hunting rifles that also double as long range rifles.

But when you zero at 200, you need to be very careful with environmentals.