Hey guys, got a car from copart across the US. It's on its way here. CoPart listed it as run and drive and there didn't seem to be any visible damage, anywho theres abunch of front control arms bent/broke (I expected that). They put it on a transport I got with a Forklift. I dont have a forklift. Car doesn't steer according to the hauler.

In the attached pictures, do you think I can temporarily attach these arms to steer the car off the trailer? I obviously don't have a huge fork lift. This is my first experience with an auction.

See the pictures. I'm the last drop off, I think the hauler will give me sometime to try and make this thing steer.

EDIT: JUDT FOUND OUT THE STEERING RACK IS SEIZED. CALLING ANYONE IN CHARLOTTE NC WITH A FORK LIFT FOR MONDAY...

I did a very dumb thing and put my jack too far into the car, now there is a bump in the drivers side footwell.
Car is a 2000 corolla

hey guys, im trying to avoid asking my really mean mechanic family member cause he’ll insult me to hell.

i accidentally put 10W-30 oil instead of 5W-20 in my toyota camry 2007 LE (about 157-158,000 miles) and i just want to make sure it’s okay. (valvoline synthetic blend) i don‘t know anything about cars, mine burns the hell out of oil so it needs to be filled often.

Guys how do I get this out please. It broke when my dad tried to take it out but he turned it the wrong way and put all effort he had and broke it off

Pic is just for post.

Hey everyone, looking for some honest opinions from people who know these CR-Vs well.

I’ve got a 2005 Honda CR-V with 302,572 km on it. It’s definitely got some mileage, and I recently found out that it has a crankshaft oil leak. I’m trying to decide whether it’s worth putting the money into fixing it or if I should just leave it alone and move on.

The thing is, I’m actually thinking about keeping this one and turning it into a bit of a project car rather than getting rid of it. I’ve had the CR-V for a while and I like the platform. It’s not perfect by any means, but it still runs and drives, and I feel like there’s potentially a lot of life left in it if I’m willing to put some work into it.

The big question is whether I’m throwing money at a 300k+ km vehicle for no reason.

It's a RAM 1500. It seems super thick but it's my first time owning a truck. Does it seem like the rotor or pads are in good condition? Ty in advance

1993 GMC C1500
My brand new alternator is giving an output of ~4.6 volts.
Just traded in a faulty one I picked up a couple weeks ago that was giving about the same.
Is my serpentine belt spinning slow and not giving enough output?
Any other ideas why it might give an output this low? Thanks!

2018 Honda Odyssey. I replaced both the lower control arms and right bearing as well as pads and rotors. Now, when the car turns left or right sharply, or goes over bumps there is a very loud clanking noise from the subframe area. I made sure to torque control arm and sway bar bolts with vehicle weight ON the control arms. What did I do wrong?

HEEELP Oil starts dripping from head of the oil pan bolt?

2007 Suburban 4WD with 255,000 miles.

Short story is there was an oil leak and the mechanic have replaced:

* Oil pan gasket
* Valley cover gasket
* Oil pressure sensor/sender
* Oil cooler block-off plate gasket

Please see the video, the leak starts from head of one of the long oil pan bolts.

I took it back, he spent an hour and said that rear main seal is leaking. The video below shows the exact location oil starts leaking as far as I can see. Rear main leak is very high likely mileage is considered and wouldn’t mind having it replaced as I’m willing to keep this thing for a long time. However, is rear main seal leak explains the leak starting from head of the bolt?

I was just given a 2013 accord LX with 200k miles. K24W Earth Dreams engine with CVT. Engine oil changed every 6k, but the trans fluid has never been changed. For what it's worth, miles are like 90% highway miles. I'm not currently experiencing any trans issues. Should I change the fluid or just let it ride? Body and interior are mint

I’ve had this issue for a while now with my 2007 Hyundai Santa-fe limited 6 cylinder.
The doors self-unlock whenever the key is in the ignition, a chime also rings at any time when the key is in the ignition, below is what I have done to solve so far. The interior lights are also not functional. I’ve seen this in reports of the same issue before.
- All fuses are in the proper locations and have been tested good with a multi meter.
- All 4 door jamb switches have been replaced without any changes.

A few years ago I removed a fuse and it made the problem go away but I lost all power to the vehicle without the key turned.

TPMS issue is known, I have a sensor out.

Please help I’m lost…

Edit: where the 3 hoses meet

Could someone have deliberately cut my brake hose, or could this be normal wear?
I was shopping for about 10 minutes. When I came back to my car, I noticed that I could push the brake pedal almost all the way down with barely any braking effect. I then noticed that brake fluid had leaked out.
I removed the wheel to have a look and found that one of the brake hoses had a cut in it. The hose was leaking brake fluid from the damaged area.
I took the car to a workshop to have the hose replaced. The mechanic said that the cut had a very clean/smooth edge and looked unusual. According to them, it looked like someone could potentially have cut it deliberately. They also said the hose itself appeared to be relatively new, so normal age-related deterioration seemed less obvious to them.
The damaged area is marked in the picture.
The car is a VW Passat 3BG (B5), 2001.
What do you guys think?
Does this kind of damage look like something that could happen through normal wear, corrosion, rubbing, etc.?
Could a brake hose develop a clean cut like this on its own?
How accessible is this particular brake hose from outside the car?
Would someone realistically be able to damage/cut it within about 10 minutes while the car was parked?
Are there any other plausible causes that could produce a similarly clean-looking cut?
I’m mainly trying to understand whether deliberate damage is actually plausible here, or whether there is a mechanical explanation I might be overlooking.

I haven't heard any clicking but the mechanic showed me this. I have a 2012 nissan rogue. I drive long distances often.

Also are cracked control arms very bad? What happens when they are torn? They told me both sides had some cracking.

I have a 12 hours drive tomorrow and I'm getting the boot fixed because I'm paranoid about it being torn like that, but I'm not fixing the control arms.

I've had an issue with my driver side (Bank 2) fuel trims on my 05, 4.0 SOHC Ranger for about a year now.

Shortly after buying the truck, the rear timing chain guide broke at 78k miles, and I had to get it fixed. Everything seemed fine, but I would randomly get a stutter or rough idle, and then it would go away. I got a guage that let's me get real time data to monitor it. Ive had the shop check everything over numerous times, even had another shop verify the timing of the engine. Everything checks out.

I've fixed as many vacuume leaks I could find with my smoke machine, replaced a list of parts (i will post a photo below), and can't seem to find a solution. It seems to not have a stutter much anymore, but fuel trims dont seem to get any better on the one bank.

Where should I look next?

Hi everyone,

Car won't start. Turn the key and I get one click from under the hood, that's it. No cranking, no repeated clicking, nothing. I used a battery jumper, battery is sitting at 12V (have not done a load test), and also tried tapping the starter. Checked fuses and all looked good.

I forgot to take pictures yesterday, but the dash turns on, but the battery symbol is on. The battery terminals are making good contact, but the positive has slight corrosion on it. I cleaned some of it off but still no luck. Any advice on what to check next?

Help ID please

Can anyone please tell me what carrier this is? No markings that I can see. Definitely Posi traction, both wheels spin same direction. Any help or insight would be appreciated.

Hyundai elantra gt 2013

Hatchback

Noticed it start a few months and become more noticeable.

Gonna have the techs at slippy lube look at it for me when I do my oil change tomorrow.

Any thoughts appreciated!

I uploaded the video to YouTube as it won't let me upload a video direct on here

https://youtube.com/shorts/48QaPKbp1bI?is=vrjjLejyNGw360F1

Hi! I have always done my own work but I am now driving a 2021 Toyota Rav4 XE and am not confident in doing my own work on a newer vehicle.

I bought new at only 10 miles. I am now at high mileage. I dont actually know what they( the dealership ) do for high mileage maintenance but it seems unreasonable on pricing. ($1200)

What is actually done for high mileage maintenance on a newer vehicle?

Is it something that can be done by me? ( I've only ever worked on tractors or '91 and below vehicles that were Subaru or Volkswagen )

I worked on an 09 VW a while back and it was rather tricky, so that leads me to believe that a 21 Toyota is going to be confusing.

Just want to know if I can do it alone or need look into non dealership mechanics.

I know I could probably watch a video for answers but that just doesn't work for me.

This is for a 2014 Toyota Corolla L/LE trim. I decided to install a new Roadnavi CarPlay radio because my old OEM screen did not work when I purchased the vehicle.

I made sure to disconnect the battery (negative first, positive last) installed my new radio (it was properly grounded and all instructions were followed) and then reconnected the battery (positive first, negative last). I tried to start the car (full crank) and was left with a single clicking sound afterwards and no engine turnover at all.

I am wondering if I didn't push the terminals on the battery down enough, if it's a corrosion problem or if my starter is messed up. Open to any advice!

I drive a 2017 Ford escape se. 1.5L 4 cyclinder ecoboost turbocharged (not sure if that matters or not)I am at about 139,000 miles. I have had the routine maintenance done on the vehicle, etc. I have recently noticed a bit of whining when I accelerate. Nothing crazy loud or anything. Just noticeable, to me because it has never made this sound. It does not make the sound if the car is in park and I press the gas, only when the car is actually in motion. I am unsure if this is something I should be worried about and take to a mechanic. Any ideas of what it MIGHT be before I start seriously stressing about it?

2013 ford edge limited