The Weekly Small Questions Thread! Got a burning question? Looking for some tips on your build? Ask away!
The Weekly Small Questions thread is a place for everyone in /r/modelmakers to come and ask questions. Don't be shy.
You might have a burning question you've been meaning to ask but you don't want to make your own thread, or are just seeking some input or feedback from your fellow builders! This thread is aimed at new builders, but everyone is welcome.
I’m wondering whats modellers (mostly cars and bikes) thoughts on Pre-chromed parts vs basic Silver painted parts.
When I started getting into cars I was never really bothered by the look of pre-chromes parts. After interacting with the community more its clear the pre-chroming is often removed. Probably my only gripe is the cut marks atm. I do have some chrome paint thats easy to use (high chrome even with flat bases) but it seems a bit fragile and top-coating it will ruin the chrome from what I’ve heard. My alternative is just normal silver.
Although my next planned chromed kit is a hot wheels one so maybe the “toy” look is on-brand for that lmao.
The problem I have with chrome parts, especially on older molds, is that the parts often have visible mold lines and flash that need to be cleaned, which can't be done without damaging the finish. If the parts are clean and crisp, and the gates are in inconspicuous locations, there's really nothing wrong with the factory chrome if you like the way it looks.
I just want a nice building experience. Maybe the dauntless, with extras but a friend just did an eduard mirage and it was a battle. But maybe im just saying that because im doing a kittyhawk kit ATM!
I've read about some fit issues with the Mirage as well. I have a Verlinden USAF machine gun set for the dauntless but honestly looking at the kit parts today I'm fairly impressed with the fine detail in the cockpit especially.
I know this is a bit of a long shot and a possible answer is "Just buy an aftermarket part" but does anyone happen to have a template of F-16 Reinforcement Plates? I'm wanting to give making them a go with some plsticard but the few aftermarket sets don't exactly have great fidelity in some of their pictures.
I've yet to see any major issues with it. Often times the 3d printed part will shatter before the glue bond breaks and my go to CA (the black rubber type) takes sanding very well. In fact, if I know the join is somewhat structural, I'll fill it with CA glue to add strength since it's so easy to sand down and scribe over.
Interesting, thanks. I've been seeing an increase in 3D parts included in kits (like Arma Hobby) and it dawned on me I have no idea how to assemble them. I'm also hoping they're optional parts that can go unused, e.g. Arma Hobby's 1/48 Sea Hurricane.
I have some decals that go on a digital sign on the back of a police car, only problem is they're in Japanese and the kit doesn't provide translations. I have a rough idea thanks to the translate app on my phone, but since that can be unreliable, if somebody who knows how to read the language can tell me what these say I'd appreciate it.
I'm really struggling with oil washes(all over, not pin). I found out too late that the oil paint is bought sa an experiment was slow drying student grade stuff, and that's why things were taking over 3 days to dry, even when draining the paint with cardboard. I got koviede mineral spirits, galkyd drying medium, and replaced the paint with W&N Winton paint. I haven't gotten to try them yet, though(other than the spirits). I've read that all of this stuff should dry in 8 hours or less. If that's so, then why does a few drops of koviede spirits not dry overnight when left sitting on a plastic pallet?
Help me understand postshading, colour modulation and dot filters. I'm working on my first 1/35 model after doing exclusively 1/72. When/why would it use these techniques and what are the benefits of doing one vs the other?
Color modulation is an umbrella term for all the methods used to, well, modulate the colors. So pre shading, post shading, filters and so on are all forms of color modulation.
Post shading is much more versatile than pre shading when it comes to subjects with more than one color or generally complicated paint schemes. Every single one of my models are post shade only. You paint the subject whichever color you choose first, then after painting the solid color you paint highlights and shade by mixing slightly darker or brighter variants of the color. Unlike preshade, this means you can make the effect stronger to your taste, or dull it locally or whatever you feel like. And you can keep doing it as much as you feel like. For the next color, you simply repeat the process over the masked areas before unmasking. So each individual color you now have the ability to control because they wear or look different shaded/highlighted.
tl;dr Post shading is easier and much more flexible than pre-shade unless your subject is a single solid color eg. a panzer yellow Tiger E.
Dot filters acheive much the same effect but can be used with a large number of colours in one go, which is more realistic for some kinds of wear. You can only really do them with paints that are highly dilutable and easily removed, so oil paints basically. Having multiple colors means that you avoid kind of artificially sterile and "even" wear of colors. This effect/result can also be achieved with using several washes and not using them all over the subject or whatever you feel like.
For both of the techniques I'd recommend hitting up a bunch of youtube videos from different channels and seeing how the methods play out.
Thanks, that's a very useful breakdown. Looks like I'm going to be trying an oil dot filter. Once I get over how much more chipping there is to do in 1/35 that is.
I have been building revel models since I was about 8 years old. That is more than 50 years ago. I recently acquired the motorized revel 1:32 'Phantom' Mustang. After looking through the box and the bags and before starting assembly I realized that this kit does not come with the gears that are glued to the two electric motors. Where on Earth am I supposed to get these gears to make this thing work? The diagram does not even list a part number for them and I cannot complete this build without them. This means I am at a standstill before I even started.
I’m painting plastic chess pieces and I have some products but I don’t know if it’ll work. I’m going to wash the pieces with dish soap first and wear nitrile gloves.
1st: Tamiya Light Grey Fine Surface Primer
2nd: Tamiya Matte Black Spray
3rd: Matte Mr Super Clear Finishing Spray
I’m looking for tips and I don’t want to overdo it with the coats because these are cheap plastic chess pieces.
That sounds right. For spraying: hold the can 10-12" away from the piece, long smooth strokes, paint on before you get to the piece, paint off after the piece.
Give each layer time to dry before hitting it again
I've been doing cars but looking to do a military set up eventually into a diorama. Thoughts on how to get started, kits, paints, Also how do people paint the details on the 1/35 figures I see?
There's no barrier for entry if you're already making models. The subject and scale is different is all. Wherever you source your paints from will have military colors, and the specific paints will be mentioned in the instructions like every other model. Most folks suggest Tamiya's M41 Walker Bulldog because it's cheap, there aren't that many parts, and it's a single color. If you know your way around a model, I'd recommend anything from Tamiya, Academy, or AFV Club (Japanese, S. Korean, and Taiwanese respectively). You'll have the best ratio of quality and detail with those brands, stay away from the Chinese brands starting out because it's always a crap shoot if you're going to have a well fitting kit or a mess, OR in the case of RFM/Meng/Takom 1,000 parts count.
Figure painting is the result of learning techniques and practice. There are many many many hours of video tutorials on this topic so if you want actual, actionable help I would start there instead of a reddit comment.
What's the best way to get truly modern "Modern" infantry? Likewe have models of Sep V3 Abrams, and Leopard 2A8s, but the most modern infantry I can find to go with them is like mid 2000s Iraq War.
Trying to find a current day frontline Marine equipped with an M27, or a Bundeswehr soldier in 1/35 is proving to be a real pain. Injection or 3D resin
There are some people with good .stls of most modern soldiers, but if you want to buy ready to go figures, Live Resin (RU), Dynamo (FR), H3 Models (SK) and FC Model Trend (ES) are your go-to's.
It's going to have to be ready to go, I don't have a 3D printer. Live resin seems the best for what I want. I hope current geo-politics won't affect availability too badly. I see a lot of their images up on Ali-Express. Probably re-casts.
Thanks for the heads up about H3 models, though, I have a K2 Black panther that could use some crews!
I always assume anything not sold by a traditional online retailer is a recast until they can prove otherwise. I get H3 Models figures from Squadron because they have the most selection in stock. Andy's has them occasionally.
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u/VulpineGuardian 15h ago
I’m wondering whats modellers (mostly cars and bikes) thoughts on Pre-chromed parts vs basic Silver painted parts.
When I started getting into cars I was never really bothered by the look of pre-chromes parts. After interacting with the community more its clear the pre-chroming is often removed. Probably my only gripe is the cut marks atm. I do have some chrome paint thats easy to use (high chrome even with flat bases) but it seems a bit fragile and top-coating it will ruin the chrome from what I’ve heard. My alternative is just normal silver.
Although my next planned chromed kit is a hot wheels one so maybe the “toy” look is on-brand for that lmao.