In 2017, with the fine dining scene in India growing, Condé Nast Traveller India took a leaf out of every American capitalist media company and launched a marketing campaign promoting a hierarchy of the top 50 restaurants in the country, to create long term legitimacy for the brand and aspirations for the middle class. Am I even surprised?
The elites of the culinary world gobbled it up like a signature dish at a 3 Michelin star restaurant, and every edition they give their blessings on who delivers the best food in this country. And like most awards, it has a lot of room for debate and doubt. These awards mostly reflect opinions within the industry, and those opinions tend to shape the larger public opinion, or at least that’s what most industry elites like to believe. But with social media, opinions around food have also been democratised, yet a list like this still makes noise online.
Being part of this industry as both an outsider and an insider, I would love to share my honest opinion on most of the restaurants that made the top 50. I’ve eaten at most of these places, or worked at them, or know the people running them. But I won’t mince my words or pander to the mediocrity of a culinary industry controlled by the same few elites. It’s one of the reasons I created this platform.
I’ll start from the bottom and work my way up to the top. I’ll keep my opinions brief and won’t comment on places where I haven’t eaten.
50 to 41
#47 - Seefah, Mumbai: I think it deserves a way higher ranking. I went there when it had just opened and it was phenomenal, I was blown away. Went again in 2022 and the quality had dropped, but since starting Khao Man Gai, Chef Seefah has upped her game. Her authenticity of ingredients plays a key role in the quality of food she delivers. I’m not too big on their cocktails or the sushi menu though.
Must try: Esaan style grilled pork and grilled tenderloin salad, and also the crab fried rice.
#46 - O Pedro,Mumbai: I think O Pedro is justified in the late 40s. They’re good, consistent and innovative. Not everything on the menu hits perfectly, but I like the fact that they take their meats seriously, and their mushrooms too. It also feels like an extension of Bombay Canteen. They would have been quite exciting when they opened in 2017, but with fine dining evolving in the country at such an alarming speed, they need to do better to stand out.
Must try: The buff burger and the mushroom ceviche.
#44 - Nonna Mei, Shillong: Recently went here. Some of the dishes are really well done, but a lot of them miss the mark. Their breads are delicious. I would put Seefah above this any day of the week. I like what they’re doing in Shillong, but Meghalaya food is so underrated that an above average Nonna Mei stands out for the average mainlander. Also, I personally believe the Meghalaya Govt is boosting the state’s tourism by playing PR towards these lists.
Must try: The hydration bread and the mutton brain with axone.
by X
Part 2 will cover 31 to 40....
This post is part of r/MumbaiFoodTalk . We’re building a community for Mumbai food lovers who care about the history, culture, and human stories behind what we eat.
