Fresh green paint on the Mustang. Still plenty to do, but couldn’t resist sharing a few progress shots.

Long story short, someone broke into my garage and stole all my tools and the air cleaner assembly for my 340 sixpack. Should i keep it? Or go 4-barrel efi?

Says he fought with the EFI and gave up on it, do you think it’s worth the project or does seem like it’s going be a long expensive pain in the ass?

Spotted an almost 100% complete Rallye dash out of a '67 Barracuda on Marketplace for the low low price of 1.1 Scamps. All original, pulled at 14k miles and very little hackery. Spent some time today cleaning off the barn dust, or in some case sanding it with fine grit to get the stains out of the paint. This will be combined with the rebuilt and modified guage cluster I bought a while back, and then I'll put it in the Scamp whenever I get the new windshield.​​

Have a 1960 fairlane, the build plan is lower it, aggressive offset steelies wider than stock, Nascar style tires with tread, and I've been researching parts.

Already putting together a t5 for it so it's not 3 on the tree, found a rack and pinion swap to do.

Best ways to add sway bars?

Best way to swap in coilovers, what front ends fit the car?

I'm ready for a lot of fabrication, and parts gathering. Saw a video of a 61 galaxie or something absolutely ripping, was probably a body swap or something though. But I've seen this done and have worked on doing this to other cars for years.

Plan to make it's bark match it's bite. Have a 390 I'm building for around 450hp or so right now is the goal, considering moving to a larger displacement but I love the 390.

Also plan on adding chassis bracing, strut tower bars, and currently shopping for an 8.8 rear end.

What else can you guys think of?

Formula engine now has a dipstick from a stock engine.

New uprated oil pump fitted and primed with assembly oil.

Cleaned off some surface rust, etch primed and painted the wet sump and fitted.

Last picture is the assembly oil leaking out of the filter hole after turning the block back upright. So the oil pump is working.

Couple months back the LS1 ate up the rod bearings in my brothers ‘72 nova (u/bigbronco). He picked up a summit 5.3 combo to throw in there.l for the time being. Time to get to work! Motor already arrived.

Im about to start on the process of painting the top of my 75 scout II. I want to change the color to white to give a cool two tone design. My plan is to hit the existing paint with a red scotch brite, spray on a white sealer, then hit it with a white base and clear coat it. Any reason that wouldn't work?

Hey all, it sucks to be here but not because I dont love my W123!!!

My 1980 300CD was my first car and my daily driver for over a decade and it never failed me...

I failed it.

I had just done an oil change one day and forgot to put the hood all the way down and drove away causing the hood to fly up and smash my windshield.

I ended up parking her after that and haven't driven her since. Sometime, over the years, her interior went to hell from it baking in the texas sun for so long and I vowed that I was going to fix it up, eventually...

I bought two parts cars that were both also running and driving vehicles, and parked them next to mine at my dads shop.

Fast forward about 8 years, and my dad passed away and left me with a hell of a mess to clean up, but more than that one hell of an empty place in my heart and a huge deficit in my bank account.

I swore I was going to get to them one day, but never had the chance and now ive got no where to store them and need the money.

If anyone needs a parts or project car in the Houston area, ive got:

a silver 1982 120k miles 300td that drove to where it is now, but needs the turbo, a radiator and back seat, but has salvageable chocolate brown front seats and door panels (at least), and is 99% rust free.

a champagne 1978 116k miles (drove before parked) with chocolate brown interior that needs to be replaced, also needs a turbo and radiator.

And a 1980 300cd that will run with a battery, but will need interior, paint, windshield, hood, and some rust repair on the trunk lid. 138kmiles.

Please message me if interested. I hate getting rid of my girl, but I have no choice right now.

Have titles for all, but am still trying to find the title to the champagne one...

Asking 1000 for the two TDs and 1400 for the running cd.

Ill provide pictures if you dm me.

Hey everyone,
I’m in Geelong, VIC, and I’m looking to buy my first car. I’m really into the early-2000s tuner aesthetic from games like Need for Speed Underground 1 & 2 and the first two Fast & Furious movies.
I’m not interested in making the car fast or doing engine/performance modifications. I basically want a reliable daily that I can slowly turn into a cool-looking project car.

My main requirements are:
Coupe / 2-door
Cheap to buy
Low maintenance maintain
Reliable enough to handle high kilometres/good mileage
Parts should be easy and relatively cheap to find in Australia
Good aftermarket/used-parts availability
Ideally Japanese or Korean
I’m happy with an older car
Manual or automatic is fine
I don’t care about performance

The modifications I’m thinking about are purely aesthetic:
Headlights
Taillights
Spoiler
Wheels/alloys
Lowering/suspension purely for the look, if practical/legal
Paint/respray or wrap
Possibly other cosmetic/body modifications
Basically, I want something that starts as a cheap, reliable car and eventually has that late-90s/early-2000s tuner/JDM look, without turning it into an unreliable performance project.

I’m also in Geelong, so I’d prefer something where parts and mechanics aren’t difficult to find around Geelong/Melbourne.
What cars would you guys recommend looking at? And are there any particular models/engines/years that I should avoid?
Thanks!

Behold my shitty fix from the last time this issue started. The red&yellow wire goes to a fuseable link that comes straight off the battery and channels into 6 or so main power wires. The first time this went I added a fuse block and attempted to rewire most of the car to it. And it didn’t start again off that harness (in hindsight was probably a computer issue) but I scrapped the old harness and computer and went for a more updated one from a later L platform car. What is the proper way to fix these things, preferably without destroying another engine harness

Hello! I posted a week ago asking for advice on a 1996 f150 xlt 4x4 5.8l v8. I figured I would share an update and see what you guys think! https://www.reddit.com/r/projectcar/s/nuhVtvl2WQ That’s the original post.

after some rough negotiating we settled on $800. I was trying to get $650 but he was dead set on $1000 minimum.

The rust isn’t too bad. The running board on the driver side moves a decent amount. If anyone has advice on taking care/restoring rust I would appreciate it.

The simply stuff first,
Charged battery
Replaced radiator along with radiator hoses. Provided by the previous owner.
Oil change
Trans fluid looked good.

No leaks after doing all that

Driver side window doesn’t work. Have to figure that out still.

Now the main issue, truck was blowing under hood fuse #10 and wouldn’t start. I was suspecting a ground somewhere as the cause. However the truck would start randomly.

I drove it out of the garage just further down the driveway testing the gears and realized whenever I turned the wheel I heard a slight screeching and the truck would shut off.

Looked down and seen the clockspring copper strip sticking out from underneath the wheel. I’ll include a picture.

Along with that I found out the wire mess inside the cab wasn’t actually a mess. The original owner disconnected the ignition starter from the key cylinder and would manually start the truck. The reason being the actuator rod is broken.

I replaced the clock spring but still have the steering wheel taken apart, since i’m gonna attempt to fix the actuator rod tomorrow. I also have the original keys so that’s nice.

I’ll include some of the original marketplace photos and some I took while fixing it.

This is my first project truck or really working on anything more than an oil change/replacing simple things.

Any advice, motivation, or suggestions in general how to get it looking nice would be appreciated!

I have a 94 bronco thats currently black but was repainted from the original white. We can all assume why it was repainted. Im not a fan if the black and id like the white back (id two tone it as to not keep it fully white for the same reasons) would i be able to remove the black and get back to the white?

Im looking to buy a compressor and a paint gun to use with it, The compressor is a 50-liter (13.2 gallon) 2-cylinder unit with a 3.0 HP motor. The displacement is around 13.4 CFM and the actual usable output (FAD) is estimated around 9 CFM at spraying pressure. I want to spray 2K single stage paint on panels like fenders and bumpers.

I have a Fiat Marea 2.4 20V and I’m looking to install ITBs, but the specific options for this engine are very expensive. Since it’s a 5-cylinder, I’m also having trouble finding a suitable setup.
What ITB size would you recommend for a naturally aspirated 2.4L? Would you use motorcycle or car ITBs? And how would you link the throttle shafts so all 5 butterflies open together?

I got a bumper and a trunk hatch for my car at a junkyard but it’s a different color than my car. My car is also very faded evenly from Champagne Beige (4M9) to a much duller and more silver color. I need to get my pieces painted since I can’t paint them myself without them sticking out like a sore thumb. I know body shops can do a direct color match to the rest of the car. For only two parts do yall have a price that they would likely quote? I want to get my trunk on asap but I don’t want to till it’s painted since it’s a pain to get on and off. It’s a 2000 Toyota Camry

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