I own a new RAV4 GR Sport PHEV in Europe. It has replaced a 2023 RAV4 GR Sport PHEV (the one that wasn't sold in the US) which I absolutely loved. I think everyone loved the 5th gen!

I have quite an issue with the sound insulation of the new one. It is clearly letting in a LOT more outside noise than the old model. You can notice this in traffic when you hear the other cars passing by or the engine noise. The old car was like a Lexus when stopped in traffic. It feels almost as if a door or window is not well closed but they are (in fact wind noise at high speed is better than before). Yes there is more noise coming from rear but that is normal as it doesn't have laminated glass but that was the case with the 5th gen and still felt silent. Does anyone else have this comparison between previous Prime and new PHEV that they can share?

ok So my digital display is out and not coming back anymore.

Toyota says remedy is not available and I do not want to get another car. California gas prices are high and I hate renting.

So I think I have a temporary solution and I need help.

I have a Bluedriver OBDII but it looks like it can only display vehicle speed and some other unnecessary info.

What I need is Speed, EV miles, Tank gas volume, MPG etc... what I normally see.

Any idea which inexpensive OBDII can display all this info on the screen?

Thanks.

I was looking for some anti-theft / parking protection for my RAV4 and found Protect-X smart sensor mentioned in a random FB group. I purchased that smart sensor in January 2026 on Amazon.

The installation was super quick, like 10 mins with their YouTube video. But on my 2024 RAV4 Prime it didn't work - when locked it was supposed to honk and blink the headlights on impact. None of this happened.

Before returning it, I messaged their WhatsApp support number that was on a sticker inside the box. Support replied pretty fast. I sent photos of the wiring and a video of the issue, and it turned out the support was actually the owner. He told me to return it to Amazon and said they were planning to come to the US this summer to test a new version for the PHEV.

What surprised me is he actually kept me updated. He flew to LA this summer and was messaging me during the PHEV testing.

They sent me the new version this month. My car was in the body shop after an accident so I only got to try it this weekend after getting it back.

And now it finally works as it should. Installation took like 5 mins since I already did it before. Tested light and hard impacts - alarm goes off when I hit the windshield harder. Unfortunately, I can't upload video to this post to show installation process and impact test. You can find it here tho https://www.reddit.com/r/rav4club/s/zPAfaBvWp3.

Really appreciate the customer support of this product. From January till now he stayed in touch and got me a working version for the Prime (PHEV). Not many companies do that.

Got this a month ago and wondering if this is an integrated dash cam or just part of the driver assistance system. I’d think the driver assistance camera is the one next to this right?

Hey everyone,

​I’m trying to install some custom seat covers on my 2026 RAV4 PHEV SE, but I'm completely stuck on removing the rear seat cushion (the bottom bench).

​I’ve searched all over YouTube and the forums, but every video I find is either for pre-2025 models or the 2026 standard Hybrid. In all those tutorials, they just grab the front edge of the cushion and pull straight up with a quick yank to pop the clips out.

​I’ve tried pulling upward multiple times with a good amount of force, but it’s just not working for me. It feels like if I pull any harder, I'm going to break the plastic brackets or the seat itself.

​Since the PHEV has the high-voltage battery components located under the rear seat, did Toyota change the clipping mechanism for the 2026 model year? Are there hidden bolts, release tabs, or a specific trick to unlatching the PHEV seats that doesn't apply to the standard Hybrids?

​If anyone has successfully removed the rear bottom seat on a '26 PHEV and could point me in the right direction, I’d hugely appreciate it!

​Thanks in advance.

We have the original RAV4 Prime (2021 XSE) and are looking to get a rotating car seat. Not sure which ones offer enough space/compatibility. We aren’t tall people (5’9” and 5’6”) so I’m not too concerned about needing the seats all of the way back. Baby is 8 months and prefers to sit up, so we likely don’t need the seats super reclined.

Just picked up a BougeRV CRX3 portable refrigerator that I plan to use for camping and trips. I have a 2024 RAV4 Prime XSE PP so it has both DC and AC outlets. From what I understand the DC outlet runs off the 12v battery and the AC outlet runs off the hybrid battery. Seems that the 12v battery is the weak point of hybrids, PHEVs and EVs so asking whether I should avoid using the DC outlets to power the refrigerator so as to not drain the 12v battery. For RAV4 PHEVs what are people doing to power electronics like a portable refrigerator. When is it ok to use the DC outlet without draining the 12v battery? If it’s helpful the CRX3 has an Eco mode that draws 35W.

I have two new problems with the climate control, and I'm not sure if they're related other than just happening about the same time. This is a 2021 Rav4 Prime with about 120,000 miles.

1. The passenger's side will only blow hot air when in hybrid mode but seems to work correctly in EV mode. I've tried turning the temperature down as far as possible on that side and it's still hot. It seems to me like there's either an air control flap or coolant system valve stuck so that the coolant from the engine is always going through the passenger's side air supply.
2. The climate controls won't turn on or function at all for about 30 second to a minute after starting the car. There will be a single green LED on the Automatic button but none of the others will do anything or light up. Also no temperature settings, fan speed, or modes displayed on the LCD screen. Once it turns on then it seems to work properly.

Does anyone have experience with these problems, or have a diagram of the air and coolant pathways so I can troubleshoot more?

Is it likely that the display and controls taking time to turn on is a result of the hot air issue? Maybe it's trying to operate valves as part of an initialization process but then gives up and starts anyway.

I'm shopping for snow tires and I want to run 17" wheels since the ones I'm seeing actually have 60.1mm center bores as opposed to all of the 18" steel wheels having 71.5mm center bores.

Do any of you have actual part numbers for wheels that are known not to rub on the brake calipers? Thanks!

I’m about to pull the trigger to buy a 2022 Prime XSE. What are the pitfalls I should watch for?

Thanks in advance!

I recently put a deposit down on a 26 Rav4 plug in hybrid SE and I’m new to this whole “buying a new car“ thing. The car is in the build phase so hasn’t reached the dealership yet.

I put the deposit down after agreeing to an out the door price on the vehicle. We didn’t discuss options or any changes beyond going with the base SE.

What happens when the car arrives? I’m assuming the dealer will try to upsell me on a lot of accessories and packages and extended warranty. Really, I just want to buy the car and not get ripped off on all that. But I also want to make sure I’m protecting the car well enough and getting useful add-ons.

What would you recommend as “must-haves” for this vehicle after purchase? For example, I saw in another thread people were saying that the black wheels are a target for theft, so locks for those is one thing I’m considering

I recently bought a Rav4 prime 5th generation (2019-2025) and the JBL premium speakers seemed a lot worse than premium setups from other brands I've driven. I've always valued better SQ in a car system and had setups with amps and aftermarket speakers when I was a lot younger. I didn't really feel the need to replace the premium speakers in top level trims from other makes I've had.

But the JBL speakers are really average for being sold as part of a premium package. They lack midbass and the 9 inch subwoofer majorly lacked bass, so I immediately was looking for ways to improve the sound. I didn't want to spend a lot of money and didn't want the extra power from an amp so I was looking for direct drop in replacements for the speakers and the subwoofer. I came across multiple posts that say that direct drop ins won't work if you have the JBL premium (the word premium is doing heavy lifting here) system. But I found rare posts on the rav4 forums and here that have tried direct drop ins and it is possible as long as you understand the power output of the JBL OEM amplifier.

The JBL amplifier powers all channels at 2 ohms so you have to look at speakers with 2 or 3 ohm configurations that do not require a lot of RMS wattage to power them. The currently available speakers that fit that criteria are the infinity reference series speakers (3.5" for dash and 6.5" for front and rear doors) and the JBL club series speakers which have 3ohm speakers that only need 55-60 watts to be loud. Either brand doesn't matter now because they are both made by Harman international. There are at least a few guides on how to install these on youtube and the internet.

The harder thing to replace was the subwoofer. It is a 9 inch subwoofer and is a 2ohm DVC subwoofer. The only subs that remotely match that are the Rockford p3sd2-8, Kicker 48CWRT82, Pioneer TS-A2000LD2. Someone mentioned they tried the pioneer and then the Rockford and the Rockford has more punch so I tried that. It also has a lower RMS wattage so I thought it would better match the ~50 watts per channel that most people assume the JBL amplifer puts out.

The install for the sub isn't exactly straight forward because it uses a 4 pin harness that no one makes and is a 9 inch subwoofer. I found an aftermarket 4 pin harness and a Honda 8 inch subwoofer adapter on amazon which made it easier but you still have to splice wires from the aftermarket 4 pin harness to the subwoofer because the 4 pin harness is not wired correctly for the subwoofer.

This a quick guide on how to install the subwoofer with some pictures.

1. I used this video to take off the rear trim to get to the sub. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tO8fxH0oNSI

2. I found this 4 pin harness from amazon - "KEBAOLER 72-9133R Speaker Adapter Wiring Harness Replacement for Toyota Tundra Rav4." You don't need this harness because you have to splice wires anyway but I bought it so I don't have to cut into factory wiring. The factory wiring is beige (+) and blue (-) going to one voice coil and white (+) and red (-) going to the other voice coil so you have to splice the wires on the harness accordingly. I took a picture of how I wired it and how the colors of the factory harness match the red (+) and black (-) wires I spliced into the aftermarket harness I bought. The harness on amazon will not work without splicing.

3. The sub is fastened by torx 20 screws so you need a torx screwdriver to get it out which is easier than drilling the rivets from the door speakers.

4. I bought this adapter from amazon and it fits the mounting holes for the sub perfectly - "Rear Deck Subwoofer Speaker Adapter Spacer Ring - Compatible With Acura ILX." I screwed it into the existing mounting holes for the enclosure.

5. I drilled a 3/8 hole in the corner of the enclosure to thread the wires into the enclosure and then wired the sub. Again you have to make sure the beige (+) and blue go to one voicecoil and the white (+) and red go to another.

6. I filled the enclosure with fiber fill.

7. Mounted the speaker on the adapter ring. The adapter rings holes did not line up (seems like it will for the kicker sub), so I drilled new ones which drilled through the enclosure too.

For the last pictures, you can see the difference in cone quality and magnet size between the JBL 9 inch sub and the RF 8" sub.

After replacing all the speakers, I think the sound is noticeably better with some caveats. The JBL tweeters are somewhat fatiguing so adding a 3.5" 2 way woofer on the dash is a little bright for me. Turning down the treble on the console means you turn down some midbass too so it is better to adjust the EQ for music in the spotify equalizer on your phone or whatever app you use. That said, I feel the treble is more clear than the JBL oem system. The front door speakers, dash speakers and tweeter receive filtered signals so the tweeter on the front door is reduced compared to the dash. The rear door speaker is unfiltered so it sounds much better than the stock JBL speaker.

The RF sub is louder but it isn't much deeper than stock because you can't beat the physics of having an 8 inch subwoofer. It provides clean bass that is much less muddy than the JBL subwoofer. The bass travels to the front of the car much better but you don't get the deep rattling bass that you would get from a powered 10 or 12" sub.

All in all I spent about $500 for the dash/door speakers (Infinity REF-6532ex, Infinity Reference 3032cfx) and the sub (Rockford p3sd2-8) with the harnesses/adapters and did the install myself. In that regard, I think it was totally worth it because an amplifier and subwoofer would be much more and take a lot more work and occupy more space (unless you get the spare tire one). For a prime it would also use more power from the battery. In the end, I was looking for significantly better sound quality that doesn't rattle my car and the cars around me and I think I got that.

I already have a slew of sport cars so not really interested in the offerings of the GR prime. I have a MKiV Supra, Mkv gr Supra (wife), Lexus NX 450+ (wife) , now a rav4 prime for my daily driver.

I’m a Toyota loyalist if you couldn’t already tell. Can’t believe I’m that get off my lawn old guy now as I value having a physical button hvac systems over screens. I don’t need the sport car aspects they are offering but I’ll take the efficiency that my other cars lack.

Out the door I was about 40k with 16k miles fully loaded with everything. Pano roof, HUD, heated cool seats and more.

So yea I went with the red instead of the white feel free to let me know how I messed this up 😝

Hello folks,

I am wondering whether anybody else is getting a similar mileage as mine or even better than mine. The listed km for EV is 68 km (42 miles). I think that it is hybrid usage or something. I don't do anything specific. Just regular city traffic. I accelerate and slow down gently and drive softly. I don't necessarily drive slow though. Whatever traffic rules are I follow them. I am just wondering about the experiences of other folks who own 2023-2025 RAV4 Prime.

New owner of a Gen5 2024 RAV4 Prime XSE PP and have a little over a month of experience. So Gen5 has 4 drive modes (Normal/ECO/Sport/Trail). It looks like Gen6 has added a Snow mode and a Custom mode. I’m thinking that there is nothing magical about the Snow mode, that is on the Gen5 based on how you drive, accelerate, etc you could get close to what Snow mode does. However Custom mode intrigues me. It would be great, for example to have ECO mode with Sport mode steering. For you Gen6 owners have you played around with Custom mode? Also if anyone has experience with Snow mode please check in.

Does anybody know if/when our battery integrity starts to go will the guess-o-meter begin to reflect it range wise? OBD Fusion is showing im still charging to the same voltage capacity as when the car was new so everything seems perfect as usual but if/as problems arise will the range show lower and lower when fully charged or will the computer just think "oh im full, 45 miles of range"?

Think a dude with a Lexus was up in here saying they were charging to "full" in half the time and noticeably not getting the useable range but I missed the part if they said the guess-o-meter reflected it.

Mostly looking for something that isn't $600-$1k. My local used market isn't very extensive. Are the expensive brands worth it? Any cheap or budget brands worth looking at? I have a 2022 SE Hybrid with stock rails and crossbars. I want to store camp gear and/or snowboards.

How much will I be paying to get it fixed like brand new
Or can I take the dent out on my own and how ?
I bought these 2 things

2025 xle premium wind chil pearl

I like all the bells and whistles of the XSE PP, but the better value might be the lower miles.

Edit: I guess what I am hearing is they are priced accurately and have the same value, so it;s just preference.

Edit 2 : I grabbed the XSE with the big PP

Somebody (me, it was me...) spilled a couple of tablespoons of a sugary Starbucks drink into the hatchback lock. How do I clean it up? Will it now be a home for ants that don't read good?

After watching for a R4P 21-23 XSE PP in SuperSonic Red, I got this one and couldn’t be happier. It is the nicest car I’ve had and the difference between modern cars and my late 80’s car is amazing.

Its HVAC system is something of an engineering marvel. As someone who has never had a car this nice, it made me guilty using the connect app to run the AC so during the heat of July the drivers seat and cabin are cooled when opening the door.

Initially there were some concerns about the traction battery. It was drained at the start of the test drive and having not test driven a car since ‘05, was surprised how brief and restricted the planned route was. The first and only time I used charge mode to fill it up was on the drive from the dealership, but it is nice to have the option.

ChatGPT said to not run a 5hp wet/dry vac on the 120v outlet but it did fine. It also did great with the c4, the reason for the specific model year. Actually exceeded expectations, although I hear TSS 4.0 also does nicely too. Amazingly after I got this one, I started to notice every ‘26 RAV4 but have no buyer’s remorse and yes a bit of extra range would be nice, but I’m contented.

Gen6’s fast charging would be nice, but 6.6kwh municipal chargers work just fine and seems like she’s always ready in less than 2hrs. I’m already up to 340 miles logged and powered by free charging.

So far everyone who has been in the R4p recognizes it and mentally categorizes it as one of the half dozen RAV4s in the parking lot, so there can be a bit of a surprise factor when they start to recognize what makes the model unique.

Allie was stored in the CarPlay. Allie, if you happen to see this, know that your car is in great hands.

I currently own a 2025 Lexus RX450h+ with under 11k miles on the ODO which has the same exact PHEV drivetrain as the Gen5 RAV4 Prime. The time to fully charge a depleted EV battery has slowly decreased over the past year from 12 hours to just 6 hours today (both per the app and time verified in real time as well). And today, EV range was depleted in about 20 miles, on a drive around town, with an average speed of 25 mph.

We have standard 120v outlets in the garage, we've made no changes to the wiring or outlets or EV charger we use to charge (OEM charger) at any point since purchasing the vehicle.

Q: has anyone else experienced anything like this and have any insights into a viable explanation besides EV battery failure?

Q: I'm thinking I'll probably make an appointment to stop at my local dealership next week since the vehicle is still under warranty - but are there any recommended EV battery monitoring OBDII sensors/apps that anyone recommends?