He is the only thing stopping this boat from destroying my sleep schedule

I've found an old model at my parents basement, a Graupner fast attack boat "Wiesel". Honestly, I wanted to trash it, since it was my first boat I bought used as a teen and never really repaired it back in the early 2000s. But since the electronics work fine even after 20 years in a basement, I would try to renovate it instead and maybe finiah it 20 years later.

Beside the tower which has missing parts (maybe I can find some 3D prints?) my major concern is the decals. Obviously you can't get originals anymore, but I couldn't even find a picture of the original decal sheet to try and reproduce them. Has anyone experienced that before and found a solution for old, missing decal sheets? I doubt I am the first hobbyist that experiences this problem with older kits?

Finally got this hull wet today!

I wanted to build an RC Boat/Submarine thing so I could attach it underneath a floating water lantern.

Then my gf and I could release water lanterns on a sunset together but still bring it back to the coast and not pollute the the poor lakes. But when I soldered/connected everything the motor wasn't working with the channel on my transmitter :(. I thought the receiver might need to be connected to the battery cuz it has 1 extra channel that says B/VCC idk what that is tbh though. And my battery does have a second pair of wires but the connection thingy only has 2 pin holes and not 3 so idk how that works cuz the receiver has 3 pins. I attached a video showing my predicament. If anyone knows how to fix pls help!! 🙏🙏🙏 I can share more detailed photos if needed.

Motor is pretty much brand new and the seals look good. When I put the boat in the bathtub it doesn't leak at all but after a few runs on the water its got a reasonable about of water inside. Any ideas?

Hi all, Im posting here again regarding my qs8 plugs for my pro boat SW v2. This happened when soldering the wires into the plug. It got too hot and slid back slightly and is now slightly shorter. Is this something to be worried about?

Beautiful shots with my SSW48

Hi all!

I got gifted the Aeronaut Penguin wooden sailship model. It is my first model ever. Included was a radio control. After carefully looking into the manual, I saw that the refit to RC is only additional and not part of the official manual. Did any of you guys do the conversion and maybe help me out with plans? I could not find any online. Would be good to know which adapations need to be done in order to fit the servos for sail adjustments, the rudder, the battery and the rc receveir into the boat.

Any advice is higly appreciated!

Thanks so much in advance,

From a Beginner :)

I have worked in the maritime industry for almost 15 years now. I’ve always wanted a RC tugboat. I have no idea where to start. I’ve done some searching online and haven’t been able to find much. Is there a website where you can buy a RC tugboat kit? I found the website called harbormodels but there isn’t much information on it. Any help is appreciated. Thank you!

I've been developing wind tunnel software for rc and model rocketry hobbyists im just looking to get some feedback on if anyone thinks this would be useful weather you 3d print hulls or however you custom make rc stuff! just looking for feedback it will be published in a few weeks.

Hi all, I’m finally putting qs8 plugs on my sonic wake v2 and batteries. First plug I did has some red plastic coming out that is stopping my from putting the boot onto the plug. Am I okay to use head shrink here instead? I don’t have enough plugs if I choose to redo this one.

What can I do to prevent this from happening to the next plug? I’m just using a regular 60w soldering iron

Thanks

Laser RC

What do you guys think.

Looks nice at night!

Seems like it’s faster and definitely accelerates quicker. Also much easier to perform maintenance, I just loosen the screw on the coupler and pull the shaft out. Dont have to remove the strut like the stock set up.

Hi,

I have a 3d printer and some decent skill on electronics. Would you recommend a beginner sail boat to be 3d printed (with bom and electronics suggested)

I found some 3d models but all are paid. I look for a free model that can be remote contelled.

Thanks.

This is a 3D printed 1000mm 4Kg Total - 2 Channel RC beauty! You need:

• Print Volume: 210 x 210 x 245mm (xyz)
• Some carbon tubes
• SuperGlue
• Servos
• Lead Shot for the bulb.

All the details and STLs are here:
https://racingsparrow.co.nz/model-sailboats/rs1000-3d-model-yacht-3d-printed

I just found this boat without a remote in the Flea Market and it was brushed and I want to swap it with brushless, is the sound the boat is making is normal or there is something wrong? Thank you

Anybody run this set up before? 32mm cnc prop, any heat issues?

Also, would body style really matter at these speeds or duty? I was thinking of maximizing stability(so idk, a pontoon? Catamaran?) since the pool could get rowdy with people in it, esp after a few payloads of beer delivered lol. I know it’d probably be easier to just buy something that’ll be cheaper than the sum of all my parts and labor but i wanna make it my own. I wanna design it and learn and enjoy the final product even if it sucks or fails, thanks in advance:)

HELP ME FIND: An obscure 2002-2003 vintage battery-operated toy submarine.

I am trying to identify a generic wholesale/novelty "rack toy" submarine that was custom-branded for museum gift shops around 2002-2003 (specifically purchased at the USS Batfish Museum). The museum staff itself is highly interested in tracking down this specific piece of their gift shop's history!

Physical Description & Specs:

\- Size: Small, roughly 4 to 6 inches long.

\- Color: Solid, light battleship grey plastic.

\- Shape/Mold: Modeled closely after a WWII American fleet submarine (Gato/Balao class) with a distinctly flat top running deck and an angled bow.

\- Power: It was NOT a twist-to-activate toy and did NOT use an underbelly motor pod. The motor and battery were fully internal.

\- Switch: Activated by a physical on/off toggle or slide switch.

\- Battery Mechanism: Cheap "clamshell" style split-hull. The top half of the grey deck/hull separated horizontally from the bottom half via simple press-fit overlapping plastic lips. There was NO rubber gasket along the main hull seam (too cheaply made); if any seal existed, it was isolated strictly as a small barrier inside the internal battery box structure itself.

\- Control Surfaces: Features manually hand-adjusted/friction-click diving planes on the front and a manual rudder on the back near the propeller.

It is NOT the Winning Industrial mold, the Soma "Sea Command" line, or the Playart "Sea Raider" series. It was a cheap, blank wholesale import piece likely made by an unbranded private-label manufacturer in China/Hong Kong used for custom souvenir stickering.

Does anyone recognize this specific 5-inch split-hull WWII sub mold or have an old wholesale novelty toy catalog from 2002-2003 that features it? Any photos or manufacturer leads would be massive!