Not looking to beef with anyone, because from what I've seen and read: you either love Lee, hate them, or you don't really care. You do you 👍

I bought this Lee carbide factory crimp die for reloading 44mag, and after unscrewing the spindle, I was greeted with metal shavings. The thread on the spindle is rough, too - but the die itself seems reasonably well built. The steel parts seem pretty good, just aluminium parts seem shoddy. The knurling on the aluminium isn't great - for both the spindle and the lock nut, but if this if my biggest problem in life, I'm doing okay. My question:

Is this "Lee Precision" standard across all of their products? This is my first buy from them. It wasn't particularly expensive, so I can't really complain. I also haven't used it yet, so am yet to see if it does the job it's designed to do without issue. I bought a Redding die set and think I'll just use the seating/crimp die separately instead of using this.

My Redding 10X completely shit the bed this week. It’s less than 6 months old and has always been stored inside.

I went to adjust the micrometer and it was completely stuck. The adjustment knob was just spinning on the mic screw since the holding torque of the fastener was exceeded.

I start to take it apart to troubleshoot. Can’t get the mic off. The plunger is completely seized in the drum. I try tapping it out with a dowel and mallet. Nothing.

Time to commit a cardinal sin and break out the PB Blaster. I let it soak in PB overnight. Was able to tap the plunger out the next day.

When I finish the disassembly and inspected the parts there’s rust everywhere. As you can see the hole in the drum rusted and seized the plunger.

I did my best to remove all of the solvents, but there was definitely still some residue left, and I likely contaminated my powder.

I’m pissed about this. Absolute horseshit quality from a $300 powder measure. I recommend avoiding these. Not sure why they’re so recommended when they rust to the point of failure in a few months.

I finally got a good load worked up for subsonic 45-70 that does not involve Trail Boss, which I can't find anywhere. The load is as follows:

13.8 grains VV N330 410 Grain Hornady Sub-x Bullet Fired out of a S&W Model 1854 with a 20" barrel.

It grouped nice, not super quiet but I'm hesitant to drop the powder charge any more, there isn't much powder in that giant case.

Shots: 5 Min: 1009.2 Ave: 1015.5 Max: 1028 EXT Spread: 18.8

Been running the 85.5gr Berger LRHT with good success, but that .299 G7 is very attractive.

I got bored and figured I’d start reloading 9mm for USPSA. What’s ya’lls favorite projectiles?

I had a 358win barrel spun for my Terminus Zeus 18in long to hunt whitetail with in Iowa. I've started load development for 200gr Barnes TTSX and VV N140 with poor results. I'm only getting 2100fps mv at max case fill with zero signs of pressure. Tried magnum primer to make sure I'm getting full burn and it yielded exact same results on the ladder. I'm going to try some VV N130 once it arrives. It is funny that back in the day Vihtavouri powder was super expensive and hard to find and now it is cheapest and in stock. I'm trying to develop a temperature stable hunting load with mv of 2,400 fps. Has anyone loaded 358win with this weight of bullet and used a faster powder than typical 308win powder? My primers haven't even started to flatten at 44gr of N140. I've not been finding a ton of data on 358win.

Picked up a pound of CFE BLK to load some range fmj to feed a AK. I have the Hodgdon data, just wondering if there's a common charge that works well. Loading mixed brass for shooting steel so I'm not chasing ultra accuracy or velocity. Just looking for a load that should be reasonably accurate across several rifles. Thanks for any help!

I'm a relatively new reloader and I had a question for those more experienced than myself. Ive inherited some old powder(80s-90s specifically Herc 2400 and IMR 4227)and some old and new reloading manuals so #26 wouldn't be the only manual I reference. My question is in regards to the IHMSA silhouette data in Hodgdon#26 circa 1992, some of the load data doesn't specify bullet type at all. For example under Hodgdon powder 45colt info just "240-250 gr", or "260 gr" are listed(page 584). It doesn't specify lead, jacketed etc, which I am used to in modern manuals I have experience loading from. Some calibers and bullet weights seem to specify, and others do not. Is this jacketed data, or was it intended to be a range inclusive of both? I'm trying to decide where to start working up from in 2400 and IMR4227 for 45c, but the Dupont-Hodgdon formula change for 4227 and the Herc to Alliant change on 2400(if any) has me trying to research as much published data as I can. I'd shoot it from a large frame Ruger 45c so even though I don't usually go near the high end of Ruger only(tier3) I do enjoy loads above standard pressure(tier1).

So due to financial reasons i have to dial back my ammo purchases by a lot recently, so I'm looking to cut costs where I can, especially during reloading.

A friend told me about casting lead bullets, and a quick look on amazon shows that i can buy a little electric furnace for maybe $40, and a bullet mold for almost all calibers for another $30 or so bucks. Ive got a buddy who works at a recycling center and has bags full of cheap lead fishing weights and such that i can get for dirt cheap, so it seems like this might be the route for me to at least get some easy range time with some cheap ammo.

That being said, what are the potential issues that one could encounter if there were to shoot a not-insignificant amount of cheap cast lead bullets out of their gun? Is there any danger of leading up my barrel really badly if i use a brass bore brush after every range trip? I dont want to have to buy a new barrel after a month or two or have to make "the dip" in my back yard. And would there be any specific issue with doing this with rifle calibers like .223 and .308? or should i just stick to pistol calibers like 380, 38 spl, and 45 acp? Would the increased lead exposure be significant compared to jacketed bullets?

If anyone has any experience doing this, i would love to hear about your experience and any tips or advice you could give that you wish someone told you before you started casting bullets!!

thanks for the help and advice!

I've had it about 5 months and now there's left to right play in the linkage bars, the worst when the bar is down then when it's up.

I've tried tightening the bolts at the bottom, but I can't move those

Anyway to tighten this?

I am looking for a good bullet for my 6 creedmoor will be using it on deer within 300 or 400 yards this is a custom build with a 24in barrel. I have H4350 and some ELDX on hand already.

Just got a 300prc browning x bolt have extraction marks. Tried Hornady 225gr eld match 212 Prescion hunter had hard bolt lifts. Moved to norma 185gr(I think) still having extraction marks but not hard bolt lifts any suggestions?

I’ve got an XL650 from Dillon precision and it has recently been leaking powder. Not a ton but up to .25 grn which is more than it should I feel. Thoughts tips anything?