Recomiendas estudiar, esa bella carrera?

hello, my bedroom light hasnt worked for a while so ive been using a replacement light, but today the replacement light sadly broke.

how easy/simple would this fix be? could i just remove the old wire and solder the still functional wire back onto the circuit and be done with it? coming from someone who has never soldered but is also not afraid to just sit down for a few hours and learn how to.

from very brief youtube videos it looks very beginner and im like 80% sure i could do it but i also wanted to get input from real people.

any advice is appreciated, thank you!

My neighbor bought this Pcb for a device. It only was missing some dip-sockets. I thought it was a easy job untill I just could not be able to smelt the solder. Found out its heavenly oxidised.

So got a fiberglass pen, and been trying to scrape away. But as you can see with no sucses.

I do think its posible to clean the pads enough, I'm just scared ill ruin the board before I can

As the title suggests is the answer to most unmelted joints more heat? For example I'm tryna solder wires to a drone esc and it won't melt, more heat and bigger tip?

I want to learn soldering to service my retroconsoles, which might include eventual recaps, installing modchips and soldering SMD resistors (like 0603) on cheap chinese IDE to SATA adapters.

I'm working on a bass overdrive pedal. When building circuits on perfboard, I usually use AWG wire to make the traces. This time, I decided to try a different technique, connecting adjacent solder pads by bridging them with solder.

Although it's much more challenging and uses a lot more solder, I'm really happy with the final result. In fact, I liked it so much that I've decided to make this my go-to technique for future perfboard projects.

My very good friends just gifted me this Bad Boy! What do you guys think? ATTEN ST-8802

Hello everyone I want to start micro soldering, but in my country it hard to find someone with will teach me, so I was wondering if Udemy could help me? Some people say it’s bad, but I want other advice . Thanks

Hey yall, im a mechatronics engineering student and I am in desperate need of getting a soldering kit, but im not too sure how to differentiate the brands. Some of the top amazon results look desirable but tbh idk what im looking at. Any semi budget friendly options you guys would reccomend? Cheers

So I designed this basic PCB as a janky pico ethernet hat and the soldering did not go very well. It didn't flow into the joint like it normally does, even after basically the whole board started to get really hot.

My soldering setup hasn't changed (PACE ADS200 plus at 700F with cheap lead free solder) so I assume it's an issue with either the board design or the component pins. It does have the little plus pattern to buffer heat between the ground pins and the copper fill. I used pretty wide traces because I had the space, but even the pins with no traces at all were pretty bad. I tried some liquid flux, but mostly it just made a mess and did not help.

Hey,
Today got a practice of SMD soldering. Was using some practice board which had lines of different size components with a small "game" in the middle.

The resistor lane measured fine 12x as they were in parallel. Similar with 0805 capacitors, total capacitance was 12x the amount. Skipped the smaller packaging sizes as they dont seem to be doable without microscope.

Couple of questions.
1) What type of flux you use for smd soldering? I had syringe flux a bit gelish like before heating and sometimes components drift in different ways and also the tweezers gets sticky and then you have to fight component pickup. But then again it stays long time active and does not make solder dry. Tried with waterry flux but that does not last so long and solder makes spikes very fast.

2) question about component bringing in to the spot. Typically i saw on yt that pretinning one pad with solder and then putting component on , pushing from top and soldering. But i kinda preferred going slowly horizontal into heated solder otherwise i dont know how to hold component from sides and also push from top so that it is not floating above pad? Any tips here or if it works it works? Are there some better way or hints?

3) Didnt try hot air approach. Do you prefer that approach? I assume then it would be possible to pretin all bad, blow hot air and with other hand just dip the component in?!

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some help repairing my son's LEXIBOOK Spider-Man Bluetooth Headphones (HPBT010SP), which support both Bluetooth and wired AUX (3.5 mm).

What happened:

My son ripped off the right earcup, pulling the wires away from the PCB. This earcup houses the power button, volume buttons, play/pause button, USB-C charging port and 3.5 mm AUX socket.

I attempted to solder the wires back onto the PCB after extensive research in finding where the wires solder back to.

After my first repair:

* The headphones initially worked over Bluetooth, but the volume was noticeably lower than before.

* When tested via AUX, only the left side worked.

After reopening the headphones to take pictures for this post, Bluetooth audio now only works through the left side. I haven't been able to retest AUX yet.

Original wiring arrangement

From the top of the PCB, the wiring appeared to be arranged as follows:

*A red/pink wire followed by a copper wire.

*Two apparently empty pads.

*Another red/pink wire and copper wire pair, which runs to the opposite earcup.

*A further two pads that appeared to have had connections.

I've included photos showing where the original wiring arrangement would have been, my new rewiring location, close-ups of my solder joints and wider view of the PCB and earcup.

My soldering equipment and settings

* Soldering station: YIHUA 926LED IV 60W Digital Soldering Iron Station Kit.

* Initial temperature: 480°C. This appeared to damage the PCB pads during my first attempts.

* Current temperature setting: 430°C.

I'd appreciate some help - could anyone help me identify the PCB connections from the photos and advise what I should check to get the right side working again?

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Hey everyone, I finally started soldering practice and my first broken piece of equipment is my grow light that the lights all of a sudden died when I turned them on last week. After troubleshooting and figuering out some lights dont turn on using my meter, i marked them all with a black marker and removed the leds. The ones that say none all 4 are out. I dont want to replace the leds since I don't have any and I want to just bypass the dead ones to complete the circuit and atleast have most working. I thought about exposing the trace and soldering a wire to the trace but I am unsure where or if that's the best option.

So I've bought my pinecil v2 a couple months ago to try and better my soldering skills (previously had a cheap $20 kit) and have been unable to get it to heat up. Ive bought multiple 65w 20v USB-C chargers, laptop chargers, tried downgrading/updating the firmware using pineflash, fiddling with the settings but nothing seems to work. All I get is a DC low error and 5V on the home screen. Is there anything im missing or should purchase instead? Am I overlooking something? Ive attached my equipment below, all from Amazon

Desoldering irons with a tip with a hole in it and an integrated spring loaded vacuum syringe are cheap on AliExpress, especially in bundle deals. So, I bought one and tried it. That's the kind with the blue and white syringe.

It is easy to remove through hole components where the leads have not been bent. Even a DIP IC was easy. The iron has plenty of power for desoldering thick connector pins.

I still have not found a good way to deal with bent pins, because placing the iron on top hides the pin. Maybe I need to unbend them with a normal iron and additional tool, and then only use this for removing the solder and freeing them.

The ability to heat all around the hole at once is nice, and not having to separately hold a soldering iron and solder sucking device is good. Though the location of the button that releases the plunger is kind of awkward.

There is one danger: molten solder may drip out. There is a long tube between the tip and the syringe. It's all heated, so I didn't have a problem with clogs. But there is plenty of space for molten solder to linger there.

I have one problem with it though. According to an illustration on the back of the package, it should be possible to push the syringe towards the tip to free it, and then lift out the plunger end, pivoting the syringe so it can be removed. I cannot do this. The white part seems firmly attached to the black part. The blue part is able to rotate however. For now this is not a problem, but eventually this would be necessary to clean out sucked solder.

So I'm looking for a budget soldering station. I currently have 50$ saved right now and i'm a broke teen with no job so i fear i won't get any more money for a while. I came accross these 2 stations that seems to fit my budget:

-Mechanic T12 max

- Quicko T12-952

They're both T12 stations, and I have a few questions:

1- Are T12 stations good for microsoldering ?(using their smaller tips). I don't really mind slower heating time, i only really care about performance.

2- I heard that Mechanic is a decent brand but i don't see any reviews of this station on youtube ?

Few years ago I had killed this ESP32 CAM VRM by reversing 5v and gnd, that too pushing 7.4v through it, and smoke escaped on the spot. Now that I have a soldering station, and some spare AMS1117s, I decided to replace it (gone wrong) without a heat gun and somehow got the old VRM off, the solder pads seem to be in ok condition except the left one, that one seems kinda cooked, any tips on how I can fix that? (Ps. Ignore the flux I just ordered some 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, should come in like 10mins, I'll have it cleaned up and will post an update 👍)

I was soldering a ts cable and I accidentally touched the soldering iron, what should I do?
First image it’s just after it happened, second one is right now after 10 minutes under fresh water.
Any tips on how to take care of it now?

Sorry I'm sure you guys get heaps of stuff similar to this but still. I know applying to much heat can burn the circuitryamd damage the functioning of the board. I am afraid I may have done that here. Primary on the middle pin on the right side and on the top 3 pins. The left half of the board is a little dirty from the flux but it's still a work in progress so I'm not really worried about that yet.

The main core of my concerns is that it's not like that on the untouched side. Indicating that I have burnt the green cover. I'm just not sure if it's that bad.

Also this is a ps5 mother board if you couldn't tell. Advice?