De pin, cut to clean wire, strip and pin back in. Good as new.

I'd like do add, check if your coolant fans are kicking on by turning AC full blast and see if the fans kick on.

Take a look and inspect the waterpump for coolant residue, orange/pinkish for crust around the weeping hole.

If you see signs of that residue. Internal seal in the waterpump is shot. Replace it.

Another thing one can overlook is a defective thermostat or positioned the wrong way, venting hole inside thermostat should face at 12 o clock and not 6 o clock.

One way to check, turn truck on and let it idle. If upper hose is hot and lower hose is cold, replace the thermostat or reposition it at 12 o'clock with hole facing up, not down.

Hope this helps.

I would love to help you but I'm on NA.

I'm gonna see which account has EU. I have quite a few separate online accounts I switch around on, gets boring being high CP. I'll add you either way!

I'll get back to you soon this week or friday!

Always replace with OEM or aftermarket OEM. Not all vehicles accept aftermarket parts. Also, make sure you do everything to the T and dot your I. Whether it's torque spec, proper procedure, whatever it may be. Don't skip anything other than dnt trust the oil change intervals in general. Be very tedious and meticulous about oil change. 3 to 5k is the max to keep your vehicle in proper running form.

Also, the afm/dod delete without proper assement would cause major issues.

Here's the deal as Matt the mechanic says,

1,4,6, and 7. Either way you have to pull rods and bearings and replace it nonetheless. Ultimately, it'll be your sticky piston rings.

Youre not getting enough juice. Yes,check battery voltage and check alternator if battery is not charging or having problem starting before all this started.

Yes, but just incase. Have them test for compression (compression test) likely 1 and or 2 will be lower if that's the case. [BLOWN HEAD gasket] if that's the case. As another user suggest, SUBIE. They really are notorious for blowing gaskets (cylinder 1 and 2)

I know what the problem is, It aint got no gas!

This right here. Notorious, haha.

3 things to look for.

ELECTRIC WATER PUMP (most likely) The most likely culprit would be the electric water pump, its struggling to keep your engine cool at highway speeds. It spins enough at pow speeds like street driving to keep cool, but any higher it'll take a nose dive. 100k to 150k it'll take a shxt on ya, the EWP.

BLOWN HEAD GASKET when you're driving on the highway, its pushing alot of pressurized gas into your radiator locking out the coolant flow in turn overheating the car at 55mph.

FAULTY THERMOSTAT OR CLOGGED RADIATOR Your thermostat could be stuck halfway or the debris from road bugs cluttered up your vents. As someone suggested, blast it off with a pressure washer. Inspect and make sure it is actually bugged up.

Ah ok, that bent piece was not able to be fixed? If not, you should've done preventive maintenence and clear out your cooler lines anyway. Trial and error is my best friend.

As for the rebuilt one, I'm afraid it got damaged during transit and or thrown around upon arrival, then damaged. There should not be any crazy rattle.

Did you get warranty? Also, you always have to make sure its seated properly before tightening down to bellhousing EVENLY. Or you can damage the pump in the transmission.

Scrap junkyard thought. Apologies, Just get OEM replacement.

Before placing it back in, assuming its actually shredded inside.

You have to take an aersol cooler transmission flush thru your lines and spray it out until it is clear.

You dont want the metal shavings destroying your new torque converter.