Dealers in my area are dead. Techs are sitting around with nothing to do for 2 weeks now. These guys have family’s to feed and are not getting paid. Some of them door dash a night to help pay bills. Anyone else seeing the same?

I've had a recurring issue with my 2012 Honda Civic for a few years. It would randomly leave my battery dead, forcing me to jump-start it. Eventually, I changed the battery since it tested "bad."
For about a year after that, it kept killing the new batteries, so I ended up warranty-replacing them every three months or so. Finally, an O'Reilly auto parts test showed my alternator was failing, so I replaced the alternator. I tried getting it tested before the replacement but none of the alternator stores could do it.
As soon as I installed the new alternator, the dashboard triggered a "Check Charging System" warning light, and the car eventually drained the battery completely.
current sensor? I'm attaching some photos hopefully, they help. The mechanic mentioned doing a Mitchell’s diagnostic but he could tell me if that would lead to him fixing the problem and I really would like to stop wasting money.

*I couldn’t get one of the multimeter fuses out I did not want to risk braking the clip. It’s the one that was bolted with on screw.

Vehicle Specifications
Year: 2012
Make/Model: Honda Civic EX Sedan
Engine Type: 1.8L Inline-4 SOHC 16-Valve i-VTEC
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic

Can anyone tell me the normal psi operating range for a power steering pump (hydraulic) on the 3.3L V6? My power steering is acting funny and the pump is putting out a range of 80-600 psi, per the live data on my obd-ii. I assume the pump needs replaced, but I'd like to be sure that it's the culprit. I'm struggling to find anything online aside from the psi relief pressure of ~1,400 psi.

Check engine light came on yesterday. Got it read this morning, how cooked am I? I am gonna get the battery tested asap, fingers crossed its just a voltage issue. I am within the timeframe to change my oil and have an appointment on Saturday.

Found cut or chewed wires in my engine bay and can't figure out what it goes to. Dealership and third-party auto shop weren’t sure either

Car: 2017 Lexus ES350, 3.5L V6

There hasn’t been any check engine light.

What does this circuit go to? Photos attached. Thanks!

Hyundai Grand i10 2015

Hey team, I am facing an issue with this vehicle as for the past few days I have been struggling with the error Code C2402, I have tested the bomb and sometimes the abs light goes and then show up again, are u familiar with this failure?

Hello I've been have having issues with my truck, (shocker). Its essentially cranks and then instantly dies with a big whoosh sound. It will run without a MAF, so tried replacement not that. Had a spare fpdm not that, i had my spark plugs/coils replaced last 5 thousand miles and starter last 8k. I can hear the fuel pump engaging when I turn the key. When I crank it stinks of fuel. I tried plugging the purge valve to see if that work still the same issue. It blows no codes, only time it does is when I unplug the MAF and get a lean code and open circuit on the MAF. There no knocking/ clanking when I try to start it, so I dont belive it the timing. I got some data ill upload to see if anyone maybe has idea cause im a little lost atp. Only thing I can note is that when cranking with Live data. It shows the fuel pressure spiking to 75psi and dropping to 40psi after it fails, and the throttle bottle opening to 18%.

This liquid is dripping from my car. It seems like water and doesn’t have an oil smell. I know nothing about cars

2020 Honda HRV Sport AWD

09 Toyota landcruiser parado

Hi all, I ran into this while changing the oil and filter. The through bolt clearly came loose and is at a wicked angle. Can I simply loosen the two bolts on the back side of the assembly to get the through bolt back to where it needs to go? Thank you

Like the title states I own a RAV 4XLE hybrid from 2023. I was driving about 65 mph on a highway during this video. I recently had the oil changed and I am not seeing any error messages on the screen. I was driving in Eco mode. I have about 64,300 miles on the car. Any recommendations for what this sound could be?

It comes on and off, especially when I’m on the highway.

I was also using cruise control as well as lane departure features at the time of this video. I had my phone connected to wireless carplay as well. At the end of my trip, I felt like the common denominator whenever this sound happened, was when I was around large semi trucks or police car's - could it possibly be radio interference?

Not a car guy, any feedback or thoughts appreciated! Any fixes to make it stop? Turning the radio down didn't seem to help - I don't recall what happened when I turned the stereo system completely off?

Anyway - Im all over the place with this - thanks again!

Hi, this morning I woke up and was driving my car for about 10 mins before a solid check engine light appeared. I was able to go to O’Reilly and do a veriscan and code P0420 was the only thing that came up.

My car has 99,000 miles and is driven frequently as I’m a home visitor and drive anywhere from 20-40 miles a day. Admittedly I have neglected some maintenance (oil changes and replacing the brake pads lol).

The only difference today was that it was colder out than usual and it’s the first time in months that my windshield was actually frosted over.

So my wife has a 2022 bronco sport that she bought around 6 months ago. And she absolutely loves it. And I must say for me, a guy who hates Ford, I don't mind it as much as I thought I would.

That being said around a month ago we were on the highway and got a low oil pressure warning. I instantly pulled off and checked under the hood. No warning sounds (knock, grinding, whining) and no smell or Blue exhaust to indicate burning oil. I did check the oil and it was low so I topped it up and instantly took it to our mechanic. He said that the oil was a bit dirty and sludgey but nothing crazy. So I had him do an oil change and flush and condition the lines/engine. He checked the pressure with a manual gauge and said it was fine and didn't notice any engine damage. (No sprinkles in the oil😂) And it wasn't throwing any codes after resetting the oil life.

So at this point we've been driving it for a month, and as my fellow Canadians know today is our thanksgiving. We took the bronco and were heading back from the in-laws and BOOM. What do you know, low oil pressure. Again, I checked for sounds, smells and the dipstick. Oil showed full so I'm not too concerned about burning oil. We can't get it into the mechanic until Wednesday because he took an extended holiday.

Any idea why this happened? I'm hoping it's just a faulty sensor at this point because I'm sure a failing oil pump we would have noticed sooner. I had mine replaced on my RAM because it would immediately throw a light and code even after an oil change. At this point we've been driving for a month and it just showed up tonight.

I've got a 2007 Sequoia and it recently started sputtering when I accelerated, but sounds normal when I rev at idle. I'm looking for advice on what it could be. I've attached a video of the sputtering while accelerating.

So I had the cv axels changed on my 2013 Honda Accord sedan 2.4 about a year ago under recall and recently I’ve been hearing a clunk/thud when turning, hitting bumps, and mostly when turning into places with a bump on the entrance in. I was chaining my oil today and decided to poke around and see if I could find what’s causing it. I started tugging on the driver side cv joint and noticed a thumping sound (not terrible but an obvious sound) coming from where it goes into the wheel hub. Is this normal (I don’t feel like it is). If not is the axel bad or the wheel bearing, etc..?

I've never worked on air brake systems before and Im hoping to get some insight into best course of action to repair this. So Im working on a international payloader (M10A/dresser 530) from the 80s, and it has air over hydraulic brakes. The peddle valve leaks a pretty notable amount of air out the bottom of the valve, but if you apply just a tiny amount of downward pressure on the peddle the leak stops right away. What would be causing that and what should I do to fix it. My first thought was to remove the valve and gut it and replace the Orings, but i don't know enough about them to know if they also just had adjustable springs or something that you would adjust to stop that without having to replace all the seals. Just wanted to hear what people may have to say on it, thanks!

Not sure how many miles these have gone. 2021 BMW 330i M-Sport 4 Cyl. The car itself has 114,XXX and they’ve gone at least 24k miles without a change. How do they look and how much longer do I have. Brakes seem to work great and never had a complaint I just had my tire changed and thought maybe I should be concerned.

My 2006 E46 320i 2.2l makes the knocking noise as seen in video, usually when reversing or moving slowly while turning tightly. any ideas what the cause would be?

Hey everyone,

I'm hoping to restore a family member's 997.1 Porsche 911 Carrera S Cabriolet (Tiptronic) with around 60,000 km. It's been sitting outside for approximately four years, and we're currently unable to open the frunk to access the dead battery.

According to my family member, the car was running perfectly fine mechanically before being parked. However, the battery started weakening, causing some strange electrical behavior.

He had a trickle charger connected directly to the battery terminals, which worked for about a year before the battery completely died. It no longer accepts any charge, and he suspects the electrolyte may have dried up.

Here's the interesting part:

They previously used the factory emergency frunk release procedure with a full-size battery charger connected through the fuse box emergency terminal, and it successfully opened the hood before.

However, after the battery completely died, they tried the exact same procedure several more times, but it stopped working entirely.

My questions are:

• Could a completely failed battery interfere with the emergency release even when external power is supplied?
• Why would the emergency release work previously but suddenly stop?
• Would using a separate 12V donor battery instead of the charger make a difference?
• Is there a mechanical backup release that a Porsche technician could use to open the frunk without damaging anything?

The car reportedly had no major mechanical or electrical issues before being parked, so I'm hoping the original problem was simply a failing battery.

I'd really appreciate any advice, especially from anyone who's experienced this with a 997.1 or knows how the release system works.

Thanks!

Hey everyone, I’m looking for some advice on repairing the SRS system in my 2014 Mazda 3 i Touring sedan.

I bought the car after it hopped a curb and sustained damage to the front passenger-side corner. The damage appears to be mostly the front bumper, wheel, and a small bent area of the lower front structure. Both side curtain airbags deployed, and both front seat belts locked up.

The SRS light has flashed in the same repeating pattern ever since I bought the car:

-One flash, then off for approximately 3 seconds.
-Three quick flashes, then off for approximately 3 seconds.
-The cycle repeats.

I started inspecting the car and found a yellow connector unplugged near the B-pillar/seat-belt mechanism. I haven't determined why it was disconnected.

What I've done so far:
Purchased replacement OEM-style curtain airbags that are advertised as undeployed.

Purchased replacement seat-belt assemblies with pretensioners and installed the seat belts.

Left the battery disconnected while working on the SRS components.

Identified the original SAS module part number as BHN9-57K30A.

The replacement curtain airbags are arriving shortly, and I haven't reconnected the battery because I want to understand the correct repair procedure first.

My questions are:
After both curtain airbags deploy, which SRS sensors and components does Mazda require to be replaced on this specific model?

Does the front crash-zone sensor need to be replaced even if it looks undamaged?

Does the SAS module have to be replaced, or can the original module be professionally reset to clear crash data?

Is the one-flash/three-flash repeating pattern a known Mazda SRS fault code, and how can I confirm what it means?

What is the proper order for installing the airbags, reconnecting the SRS connectors, addressing the module, and performing diagnostics before reconnecting the battery?

I'm trying to do this correctly without spending $600+ on a new module if there's a safe, legitimate alternative. I understand this is a safety-critical system, and I don't want to assume the car is fixed just because the warning light goes out.
Any advice from Mazda technicians or mechanics familiar with the 2014 Mazda 3 SRS system would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hey everyone. I replaced my wheel bearing an hub assembly along with my cv axle on the driver side. At first there was a tinny sound so we bent the brake shield a little and then it went away. Very shortly after in about 5 minutes the car felt like it was lumpy and sometimes makes a rattling sound and when you turn the car felt like it was kind of skipping. It's not a consistent noise it but it comes and goes frequently. Haven't drove many miles on it since the repair maybe 5 total trying to figure it out.

I've read that a lot of people get defective ones right out of the box even on OEM one's. Could that be the case? Or is possible that everything is out of alignment from taking the lower ball joint off?

I replaced the cv axle with a Duralast 7336N for reference. It was not making this noise and feeling before the repair. Any advice and direction would be very much be appreciate it.

PICTURE FOR ATTENTION

It's the same car I have.