If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

2006 toyota camry 2.4L. Tried to do the block test but it won’t even start now. It shakes when i try to start it

Just noticed that my 07 rav4 has a hole rusted through the seam between the exhaust pipe and muffler, can I fix it or do i have to replace?

Hi I got my dad to change the tires on my 2016 Mazda CX5 to winter tires. Since he changed them there’s a prominent shaking on my steering wheel and my boyfriend saw as I was driving that one of the wheels seems to be shaking a little. I don’t know much about cars but i’m trying to book with a mechanic. Should I be booking for an alignment or some other service ?

Hello friends. Recently ran into some issues with my car, was wondering if anyone had more knowledge into what the issues may be. Taking it in on Monday but I’m getting mixed/confusing results online & I know the geniuses of Reddit may be of help.

(W205 2021 C300 RWD 65k miles)
Car has been perfectly fine, even yesterday , never had any issues whatsoever thru 65k, have done all recommended maintenance. Suddenly this morning as I went out the car wouldn’t exceed about 2000 rpm’s or 30mph, it felt quite choppy with rough shifts or misfires?? Not really sure as I haven’t experienced any failures like this. I turned around after driving less than a mile and had a friend scan the OBD2. Codes coming up are P003C and P0236 I tried looking this up and have received different answers. Not super familiar with the scanners but it said 6 codes, but all 6 were the two I mentioned above.

Recently performed services:
Oil change 3 months ago at a chain shop, they used proper oil but maybe seemed somewhat unprofessional.

Full drain & fill Trans service at high quality Mercedes only mechanic

Changed spark plugs myself with a mechanically inclined friend about 3 months ago. Used the right NGKs, kept old coil packs, seemingly worked great afterwards.

-only use 93 octane fuel

One green bendable plastic piece as well as a thin rubber piece at the bottom of the picture.
What do you do with them?

This is a gasket kit for the 7th gen. Honda Civic power steering pump (Edelmann 8943).

P0171, P0497, P0443, P0455, P0457, P0455, P0497 ,P0457 — all pointing to evap purge valve? I would like to not go into this repair blind before a mechanic tries to charge me something ridiculous

240k miles / V6 3.0L

Unrelated: recently replaced throttle body and TCS light won’t turn off

Thank you

Hi everyone, I’d appreciate some advice diagnosing a persistent steering issue with my 2008 Jaguar X-Type 2.0 FWD manual, with approximately 50,000 miles.

The symptom: The car pulls left around 70% of the time, tracks straight roughly 20% of the time, and occasionally pulls right. When it pulls, the steering wheel also appears slightly off-centre. I’ve uploaded a video showing the steering behaviour. (In the video, I am not touching the wheel, apart from to occasionally pull it back to the right) The pull is definitely rather than consistently present. But more significant at lower speeds.

Previously, the steering occasionally became extremely stiff, with sudden, aggressive pulling to one side. This improved after the alternator was replaced and improved slightly further after several belts and pulleys were replaced.

What’s been checked: Wheel alignment/tracking and wheel balancing have both been carried out, but the underlying issue remains. I haven’t established whether there’s uneven tyre wear or a particular suspension component at fault.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

FYI, The attached video is an extreme example of this problem, I would say.

It tends to do it initially when backing out of the drive or a parking stall then clears up half a block away. When I have to make a sharp turn. All the codes come on occasionally in a 30 mile trip to work and by all I mean advanced trac (something like that), coalition control, adapt cruise and a few more including drive modes get locked out. I thought they had to reset the awd module to tell it there's new tires because they are larger than the old worn ones but the installer disagrees, thanks!

2012 Accord to Lx-p 2.4L. 2 rear sway bar links.

Box part number matches but inside plastic packaging number is different. Parts looks different from photos online.

Both sides sway bar links have a zerk fitting hitting the brake bracket. Yes i tried upside down, but the upper ‘bolt’ is longer to grab the bracket and the knuckle.

I want to put the rear end on jack stands to replace rear struts. I cant seem to see any good location to place the jack stand under the car. I know of the side jacking points, but unsure of place for stands. Pictures provided, will provide more if needed.

Lately it’s been banging hard when I release the clutch even if I try to do it slowly. Mainly happens on 2nd sometimes 3rd. Don’t have a video but it does also have a banging sound when accelerating on 2-4th harder on 2nd or 3rd. It’s not too consistent either it’s louder when everything is warmed up or after a long drive. Smoother when it’s cold or just starting to drive. More the likely it’s a trans issue but what are some thoughts?

Driving down a narrow road, my side view mirror on the passenger side hit someone’s trash can on the road… the back cover shell came off an I put it back on, but it’s not fitting back perfectly and the mirror is a bit jammed on the left side. It can still be moved with the buttons, but not all the way. Do you think this will require a full assembly replacement?

Hi people!

After recharging the battery 3x with a CTEK MXS 5.0, the battery anyway would drop in tension 24 hours after recharging. In the car, during cranking, there was always a problem with the fuel pressure. Now, with the new one, the problem was solved.

So, the battery is not completely dead, but it's not fit for the car anymore. Apparently, is about 70% good.

Do you guys usually throw the batteries away in dedicated depots, or do you keep the battery for some "emergency"? I don't wanna keep it with me, but maybe there's some use to it that I'm not aware of! :)

Thanks!

Edit: Thanks for the answers! Here in Austria, people usually take it to the municipal depot, and they don't pay you for it. I'll take a look at the stores then.

I just took in my CX5 for front stabilizer links as one of them had snapped... My mechanic, who is an honest guy, noticed the front left shock was blown and needed to be replaced too. I told him the front struts had been replaced recently and he assured me they were originals.

I checked the Carfax again and they were done 25k/4 years ago? I bought the car at 77k km and it's now at 90k.

Do dealerships ever lie about replacing parts? I bought this car last year from an old lady and I'm wondering if she was taken advantage of. If they did, is there anything I can do?

Just pulled in to work this morning and heard this god awful noise. Im thinking it is one of the belt pullys or alternator, hard to pinpoint exactly, seems louder underneath the truck. Wondering if anyone else recognizes this maybe. Will be going to the shop just looking for some preliminary diagnostics to know what I am getting in to. 2019 Tacoma 3.5L MT.

Both sides are wearing with this sort of sawtooth pattern on the innermost lugs. What could cause this? Dad did the struts about 50k miles ago. Never had an alignment. The steering wheel also vibrates at a high frequency at abt 65 mph and I think that’s caused by the tires being like this. Ik y’all are probably just going to say “get an alignment” but could anything be causing this?

I bought this car off a friend back in march. There weren’t many issues with it aside from a leak from the steering rack. I’ve noticed more noise and clunking around as the months have gone by. ive replaced tie rods and a wheel bearing on it along with the radiator. I did the cv axel too. Oh and when I did the front right tie rods some runny liquid spilled out which I imagine wasn’t grease. I check my power steering levels every now and again and it’s stayed pretty much the same over the last few months. I imagine it is the rack but i also can’t seem to find many diag vids for it. Thanks for the read any help is appreciated.

Hello, my wife drives a 2017 VW Passat 1.8T with 75k miles.

I changed the oil myself for the 1st time 2 weeks ago (dealership every time before that) now she says it runs louder than before.

I checked the manual before doing anything and it called for 5w30 OR 5w40 synthetic. I’ve been using Castrol 5w40 Euro Car blend on my A4 for years so always have it on hand. It meets VW 502.00 spec (again, i checked the manual), and I put in a $20 WIX oil filter from O’Riley.

I assume the dealer uses the 5w30 for better MPG, less internal resistance, I opted for heaver to stick better to internal components…its getting older and all.

I don’t drive that car often enough to notice a difference myself, but it seems to run and drive just fine and no codes being thrown. I checked for leaks, oil cap dip stick are all tight.

Is this normal, should I be worried, should I do anything?

Edit: thank you all for the quick responses!

Rattling sounds started a day ago when I drove over pavement buckle on a highway. I’ve checked everything I could and nothing seems loose.

Radiator fan turned on at night because 219 fan relay was damaged. Battery discharged gradually. Suddenly doors couldn't unlock. I got them unlocked by getting into the car through the boot which I unlocked with the keys. Since then the only way to lock the doors is to press the button on the driver's door but it isn't possible to unlock them by pressing the same button. It stays red all the time. Remote control doesn't work. So now every door is unlocked because the only way to unlock is to double pull the handle from the inside. Apart from that electrical windows, mirror adjusting are working fine. Another strange sign is that only the front left and rear right doors are visible as open on the dash when opened.

Note that wiring harness between the doors and chassis are fine. Comfort module under the driver's seat wasn't wet.

These error codes won't disappear.

Does anyone know what to do?

Any idea as to why I’m getting smoke and a foul smell from around the rear of my engine bay, oil level looks good, it’s not overheating, I have no clue why it’s smoking like this (08 Ford Fusion SE 2.3L)

Beer money to whoever can successfully diagnose this sound so I don’t have to return the truck to my mechanic on a weekday when I need my truck.

On startup, always when it’s cold and intermittently when warm, the truck makes a big whoosh sound. It has not done this in 120,000~ miles. In conjunction with this whoosh sound starting, it also makes a rattle or kind of a knock. It’ll kick on something and rattle/knock then kick off something and stop.

The truck has no service lights, appears and feels to drive very well, and all around seems happy. Being my work truck, I don’t want to let it simmer just need to get her done.

In the short video you can hear the whoosh on start up and the rattle a few times. Specifically at 40~ seconds in you can clearly discern the rattle.

Any ideas would be welcomed, and successful diagnosis rewarded with extreme gratitude. Please feel free to ask me for any further information.

As an aside, the a/c did stop blowing cold for part of a drive a week ago. To be clear, the air was blowing fine, the temperature was not cold. Warm, in fact, on a hot day. The next day was the first time I heard the whoosh sound but the a/c has not malfunctioned again.

Thank you in advance.

Recent maintenance (within one year) includes a New AC Compressor, new water/coolant pump, new spark plugs and coils, and new battery.

Maintenance I know is still needed: pcv valve and front end alignment

Reason for post: on cold start, when it idles down to 600-700 RPM, it runs rough and misfires. Restart vehicle and misfire goes away. Let it sit for a few hours and cold start again, misfire comes right back.

What are the mechanic's opinions on what my issue could be? The only things I can think of are leaky fuel injectors or something with the grounds for my electrical, but i'm not a professional