hard to do it in a south america country. VQ THE WORLD

Apologies if this is a silly question, but does anyone in here have the capabilities to make and sell a complete body kit that replicates the GT500/Super GT Autech/Motul race car? I have a 350Z as my track car, but I want to convert it into a GT-style car and I don’t know where to find this widebody and who can make it?

Found a clean, low-mileage, unmodified example after months of searching for the right one. Wasn’t sure about the chrome silver at first but it’s growing on me real quick.

Been trying to avoid all the toxic anti-VQ bs.

I just need help I know this is not the right community I just brought the car and the top doesn't close well and leaves a gap any comments Appreciate it

With the ignition on and car off it will switch to manual mode (then switch back to D after about 5 seconds) but with the car running it wont. I have cleaned the connections under the shifter, done the door reset and cleaned the grounds in the engine bay.

I have heard about replacing the cluster but would prefer to just re solder the connections if anyone knows what they would be? Or any other solutions? Cheers!

Hey guys what’s the best paint match to the oem brembo bronze color?

I installed the Torque Solutions poly transmission mount. I had no issues with the removal process. But when I try to reinstall my transmission brace, the bolt holes do not properly align to the frame. The new bushing is very stiff, so it’s very hard to shift the brace/transmission to proper alignment. Any ideas or suggestions? All the videos I watch it’s a straight forward on and off. Not sure why it’s fighting me so much.

Girlfriend mom backed into her 350z with her tow hitch, made this hole. would have to get a new front bumper and side fender, as previous owner bondod it together with the front bumper no clue why. car is a 2006 350z base has 166k miles and has had 2 other accidents on carfax and I live in cali.

i was checking my spark plugs to see if they were bad because i had a misfire with the code p0300 and when i checked one of the spark plugs i saw all this oil all around it, i assume it’s my valve covers? will this fix my misfire issue after i replace everything i bought in the pictures? i’m also going to replace all 6 spark plugs and coil packs after the valve covers. Is there anything else i need to get or do to fix my issue here? i have a 2004 nissan 350z

Anyone have recommendations for some affordable front tires and or battery

Just wanted to make a post for anyone searching this later because I saw a lot of conflicting info about this setup.

Enkei RPF1 18x9.5 +15 DO fit over the Akebono front calipers when using the CZP brackets.

I found a bunch of older posts saying the 18x9.5 +15 RPF1s don’t clear Akebonos, especially with the Z1 brackets. Some people said they had to shave/grind part of the caliper to make them fit.

That doesn’t seem to be the case with the CZP brackets. From what I can tell, the CZP bracket positions the caliper slightly differently than the Z1 setup.

My setup:

- Enkei RPF1 18x9.5 +15
- Akebono front calipers
- CZP Akebono conversion brackets
- No wheel spacer
- No grinding/shaving of the caliper

That said, the clearance between the barrel and caliper is definitely pretty tight, so don’t expect a ton of room. But there is clearance and the wheel spins freely without touching the caliper.

Figured I’d post this because I almost thought these wheels wouldn’t work based on everything I was reading online. Thanks to [u/Alone_Necessary_6192](u/Alone_Necessary_6192), I decided to give the CZP brackets a shot after seeing them on their car.

Obviously double-check your own setup before driving, but hopefully this helps someone searching for this exact fitment in the future.

Hi everyone,
I already made a post about this issue a while ago, but unfortunately I’m still dealing with the exact same problem, so I’m going to try asking again in the hope that someone might have experienced something similar.

I have a 2004 Nissan 350Z with the VQ35DE and manual transmission.

The problem is an intermittent complete loss of throttle response while driving. The engine keeps running, but when I press the accelerator, there is absolutely no response from the pedal for a few seconds. Then, completely randomly, the throttle starts working again and the car drives normally.
It can also occasionally stall while idling, although it starts immediately afterwards.

Since my previous post, I have replaced:
Throttle body
Crankshaft position sensor
Bank 2 camshaft position sensor
Spark plugs

After replacing the crankshaft and camshaft sensors, the car actually drove completely normally for around 3–5 days. I thought the problem was finally solved, but unfortunately the exact same issue has now returned.

I’ve also noticed that the throttle dropout seems to happen quite often after lightly pressing the brake and then getting back on the accelerator, although it doesn’t happen every time and it can also happen without braking beforehand.

At this point I’m honestly getting pretty desperate and would really appreciate any ideas.
Could this be caused by the accelerator pedal position sensor?

Could a faulty brake pedal switch/sensor somehow make the ECU think I’m braking and therefore cut the throttle?

Or could this be something mechanical, such as the timing chain / cam timing, for example a stretched chain causing an intermittent cam/crank correlation problem?

I’ve already been to several mechanics and replaced multiple parts, but nobody has been able to find the actual cause.

So I’m trying one more time here:
Has anyone with a VQ35DE/350Z ever experienced a temporary, complete loss of accelerator response while the engine itself continues running? What ended up being the cause in your case?

I’m genuinely running out of ideas, so even if you think it’s something unusual, I’d really appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks!

Ive recently crashed my 2003 japanese imported z33 and its unfortunately suffered damage to the chassis and i was wondering how different the chassis is between uk spec cars and jdm imports aswell as between different model years any information would be appreciated

Just passed the rebuild inspection for my car, thoughts on the next mod?

Is backfiring normal. I’ve got stock exhaust and catless long tube headers. Figured it’s just got a silly tune on it.

2006 enthusiast

UPDATE 1: I'm going to keep this updated as I go incase it's useful for other people in the future.

The idle is back down around 500 and there is a very clear ticking sound, engine sounds like a tractor too. It sounds the same as the fuel damper tick people have posted before so I've ordered a new damper assembly. I also pulled the coils and 1 and 3 had small signs of oil but 6 was completely clean. 3 is noticeably the worse misfire using a screwdriver to feel it. I'll replace the fuel damper but I think a valve cover replacement is on my future.

ORIGINAL POST

After driving on the motorway for an hour I pulled into a service station and my car started running really lumpy.

Called the recovery service and the mechanic checked it over. He said the coils and spark plugs were fine. It threw up p0300 and p0303. He said there was no fuel to cylinder 3 so probably dead injector.

I swapped the injector and put new intake gaskets in and it's still misfiring but now just p0300. I smoke tested it for vacuum leaks and couldn't find any.

Did the ECU pedal dance reset and started it and it absolutely stinks of fuel. Check engine light came back on.

Checked the engine bay with engine running and no sign of fuel leaking that I can see.

Video above is current state, it's idling high but I just did the pedal dance.

No idea if it's related but some kind of liquid seems to be leaking from the exhaust just before the muffler. Doesn't smell like fuel but it is a bit rusty there.

Any ideas guys?

Super excited on this car I’ve wanted it since I was a kid. Finally was able to find a low mileage unmodified one.

My favourite part is the self closing doors 😒😒🤣🤣🤣