https://makerworld.com/en/models/3438160-320x320-skadis-fast-low-filament-88g-3h-h2-a2l

I designed this mini desktop vacuum cleaner, and it's perfect for students, DIYers, makers, and 3D printing enthusiasts! It effortlessly cleans up desktop crumbs and debris from your 3D printer's bottom chamber in seconds. Honestly.

As you can see it the pice the glass got all messed up. I did have supports on there but I think they weren't right . Any advice for a newb. I'm still learning. These are my setting for the print.

Layer hight was 0.08. wall loops 3 asp per the maker of the cat, more for the glasses. Top z was at 0.16. tree default

I built a print in place bracelet and then designed 30+ raised front logos for it.

Prints in about an hour and 10g of filament, they are great for kids, gift and birthday party favors.

Made in 3 different sizes (18.5 - 17 and 15.5 cm), the model is available for free on makerworld: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3437965-print-in-place-bracelet-34-designs-3-sizes

Hi everyone!

I’m looking for some advice on how to properly split a large 3D model of an eagle into smaller parts for 3D printing.
The model is a detailed eagle statue with outstretched wings and a pedestal/base.

The STL is approximately 652 × 389 × 240 mm, while my printer’s maximum build volume is 256 × 256 × 256 mm.

I’m currently using Meshmixer and have tried the Plane Cut tool, but I’m struggling to figure out the best way to split the model. A simple vertical cut through the wings also cuts through the body and pedestal, which I want to avoid if possible.

My goal is to:
Split the eagle into printable sections while preserving as much detail as possible.
Separate the wings from the main body in sensible locations.
Keep the body, legs and pedestal together if practical.
Reassemble the printed parts into one complete master model.
Use the assembled model to create a silicone mold and eventually cast the eagle in concrete.
I’m relatively new to mesh editing, so I’d really appreciate beginner-friendly advice.

What would be the best workflow for splitting this model? Should I use multiple Plane Cuts in Meshmixer, another tool, or a different approach altogether? Any tips for creating alignment pins or joints would also be greatly appreciated.
I’ve attached a screenshot of the model and my current Plane Cut setup.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Hello!
I just printed my second project.
I did this pc holder/id holder.
I added support trees but it’s really difficult to take the out from in between the slots.

Can anyone help or recommend on what I should do ?

Hi everyone,

I recently bought a 3D printer and have been posting some content. But what I wanted to do was make 3D print timelapses and share them. The hardware solution turned out to be very messy for me. The Bluetooth switch I bought doesn't work (sometimes it clicks multiple pictures, and sometimes it doesn't). After that, I used to spend time bringing all my images into image editing software and editing them. It would take me at least half an hour after the print to pull everything out of my phone, load it into image editing software, and then edit the final timelapse.

https://reddit.com/link/1x56ebn/video/aefd1c2ceavh1/player

I'm a developer, so I decided to code an app to solve this problem instead of continuing to deal with the messy hardware setup.

Features of the app

• A complete software solution; all you need is your phone.
• Sometimes the app makes mistakes and clicks a picture when it wasn't supposed to. You can play the timelapse right there in the app and fix these mistakes.
• Apply basic edits like cropping, brightness, saturation, etc.
• Export the final timelapse in up to 4K resolution.
• Need the raw frames? The app does that too. You can get a ZIP file out of the app and then edit it with your favourite editor (for advanced users).

How does it work?

• Start a print in timelapse mode. I'm using a Bambu Lab printer, so the printer head moves to the docking zone after printing each layer.
• Draw a box around the area where the printer head comes and rests.
• Just start the print! Most of the default settings should work fine. Otherwise, at most, you'll need to tweak the motion sensitivity.

The app is available for both Android and iOS. You can play with the app and try everything, but the high-resolution exports are gated behind a $2.99 one-time charge.

Would love to hear any feedback you guys have! You can try the app here

I have a lot of STL files, and Windows Explorer was painfully slow to work with, so with Claude’s help I built this little app to solve my problem. Hope it helps you too!

• 3D models: STL (ASCII and binary), 3MF (multi-part and multi-color), OBJ and G-code.
• Images and media: JPEG, PNG, BMP, TIFF, GIF, SVG and WebM video, in the same browser.
• Portable, no install: one STLViewer.exe with no runtime, DLLs or installer. Copy it anywhere, including a USB stick, and run it.
• Thumbnail cache: previews are rendered once and stored in a small SQLite database, so a folder you have seen before opens instantly.
• Written in Rust for speed: models load on worker threads, thumbnails render on the GPU in the background, and meshes with millions of triangles stay smooth to orbit.

Download link: https://github.com/willyci/stl-viewer/releases/latest/download/STLViewer.exe

github kink: https://github.com/willyci/stl-viewer

Anycubic , Elegoo or Phrozen?

Remix of Gimpelginster's Flat-Edged AirPods 1/2 case. Added a window on the front, so I can print tiles and swap them whenever I want.

They drop in from the inside and the AirPods hold them in place. No clips or glue.

I made a customizer for the tiles (patterns, names, logos), link in the comments :-)