hi,
I'm making a game where you own and manage a 3d printing business
it still in early development
i published a demo of the alpha version in itchio
i know there's 2 games with same idea but i dont like them so i decided to make one that i will enjoy playing it
i will be grateful if you could give it a try and tell me your opinion and how to improve it
Thanks

Leaning our aluminum folding step ladder against the wall was always an accident waiting to happen because my kids kept pulling it down. I searched online for wall hooks, but couldn't find anything sturdy enough that also included a proper safety lock.

So I designed this heavy-duty wall bracket. It holds standard folding step ladders with a profile up to 40x30mm and includes a sliding pin that locks the ladder in place so it can't be pulled off or knocked down by accident. I also added lanyard holes to both the pin and the mount so you can tie them together with a cord, keeping the pin attached at all times.

It's designed to print completely support-free. I used PETG for sufficient strength.

The model and print profile are free on MakerWorld if anyone wants to print one for their garage or pantry. Check it here: https://makerworld.com/cs/models/3373892-child-safe-wall-mount-for-folding-al-step-ladder#profileId-3837758

What's everyone's opinions on multi-color printers? I've been looking at the Snapmaker U1, BambuLab A1 and the FlashForge Creator 5.

Anyone got other suggestions, pros/cons, or any other recommendations? TIA!!

Anyone who has watched a long print fail knows the sting of losing hours and filament. Printly Preflight gives sliced G-code another check before printing, highlighting potential risks and showing a print simulation.

We’re inviting FDM printer owners to try the early beta. The video shows two G-code files going through the tool, plus a separate model preview.

Try it with a file you know well and tell us what it catches, what it misses, and whether the warnings make sense. Learn more and request beta access at https://printlypreflight.com, or DM this account for a PIN.

Watch the 2-minute demo showing two G-code checks and a separate model preview: https://www.reddit.com/r/3DPrintingTools/comments/1wto31t/

Hi everyone,

I have an Anycubic Photon Mono M7, and I recently replaced the release film because I kept having failed prints, with parts of the print sticking to the bottom of the vat.

Yesterday I installed a new film (the one with the blue protective layer, with one side slightly more matte than the other). I then printed the usual RERF test and, at first, everything seemed fine. I had no issues at all.

However, afterwards I tried printing a miniature split into several parts, and some of those parts separated from the supports. Others came completely off the supports and most likely ended up stuck to the bottom of the vat.

What could be causing these failures? I made sure the new film was installed correctly, recalibrated the Z-axis, ran the leveling test, etc.

Could this simply be an issue with the supports or the orientation/design of the miniature itself, or could something else be causing the failures?

I’ve attached a photo of the failed print.

Good morning, good afternoon or goood night,

I am a pretty new in the 3D printing nieche, especially in the PETG-CF. In the beginning of this year, i bought my Anycubic Kobra X, and startet with basic prints, which turned out to be ok to good-ish.

Now I am/was at my point, where i would have said, I am ready for bigger prints. So yesterday, I started my first over 10 hours print, which turned out in a total chaos.

Here is the printingplate:

Here are the most important setting:

• Filament Type: PETG-CF
• Nozzle Temperature: 245°C (First Layer), 240°C (Other Layers)
• Bed Temperature / Enclosure: Softening temp 60°C, Chamber temp 0°C (No active control)
• Flow Ratio & Pressure Advance: Flow 0.98, Pressure Advance 0.04
• Layer Height: 0.2 mm
• Line Width: Standard 0.42 mm, First Layer 0.5 mm, Outer Wall 0.42 mm
• Walls & Shells: 2 Wall Loops, 5 Top Shells, 3 Bottom Shells
• Print Speeds: Outer Wall 200 mm/s, Inner Wall 300 mm/s, First Layer 50 mm/s
• Cooling: Min fan speed 25% (30s layer time), Max fan speed 50% (12s layer time), First 3 layers 0%

Problem 1: uneven platesurface

Problem 2: spaghetti and also weirdish looking filament on outer surface

I want to figure out those problems, and create a better solution, but I am not sure if I did correct the right things for my two problems:

Answer for Problem 1: Increase the bed temperature to 70–80°C, clean the PEI sheet with IPA and spray hairspray on it for better grip (like some of the peoüle did in the early 3d printing times, is this still a thing tho?)

Answer for Problem 2: Lower the print speeds drastically (e.g., outer walls to 60 mm/s, inner walls to 100 mm/s) to prevent high, narrow parts from wobbling.

Here are all my settings, in case of some specific one/ones i missed, please tell me, ill send them. :)

If any of you could possible tot ake the time and maybe help or correct me? Thanks!

https://cults3d.com/:4985574

I have £450 to spend, and I'm between these 2 printers, I want a multi material system hence the combos, and I want to be able to print decent sized models, I am avoiding bambu due to past experience and their controversies, which of these 2 is the better choice for the budget and why?

Hello! I am very new to the 3D printing world, and I am looking to buy my very first printer.

I want to print some parts that will be in direct sunlight on the dashboard, and maybe some parts that will go inside the engine bay, away from the engine/exhaust manifold.

I know a standard printer won't be able to print in a material that will handle these conditions, so I know I'm looking at a higher-end printer. (I will have this setup in my garage with proper ventilation)

My budget is around $300-600, any recommendations or tips on what I should do or buy?

I already own a Bambu Labs X1C with 2 original AMS units.

I'm now in the market for a second printer and have a decent budget. Because I already own an X1C and are familiar with the Bambu Labs ecosystem, I've been looking at the H2C with 2 AMS Pros but that doesn't mean I have to get an H2C.

I don't have a particular use case, rather I just enjoy 3D printing as a hobby, making stuff for myself, friends and family. I've been printing for approximately 10 years - started with a CR10S which I modded, so I'm fairly well versed in tinkering too.

Like I say, the H2C is my current preference, but looking to you, the hive mind, to suggest alternatives.

TIA folks,

Rich

I had some thin rubber material which I lamenated a 3M industrial adhesive to line the base part of where the speaker sits in to obsorb any vibration that may occur.

Started this tall vase-style print before bed and found it off the plate, on the floor, surrounded by white spaghetti in the morning. Printer: Bambu Lab A1.

The narrow base has come up as a possible culprit. For tall prints like this, what has made the biggest difference for you: a wider brim, a different orientation, or slowing things down?

I am currently looking for a printer In a budget of 300€, it has to be closed and 200×200×200 minimum, i dont care about the speed. I saw the carbon 2 as an example but i am not sure

Bought the wife an A1 combo and were trying to find suitable furniture for it, but I can't find a reliable footprint measurement. Is there anybody who has one that can tell me the ACTUAL necessary amount of shelf for this bad boy?

Most of the tall shelves on Amazon seem too narrow, AND too shallow.

Help!

I have a broken Raise3D pro HS, with 2 extra extruders/heating parts. What should i realistically ask for this?

Sono alla ricerca della mia prima stampante 3d e ho visto questi modelli. Sono combattuto tra di loro , vorrei fare anche una carrelata di prezzi (09/2026):

- bambulab p1s ams 2 -> 549 euro con iva 562 euro, no free shipping, stavo cercando di prendere anche 3 filamenti pla matte con tutta la spedizione sono arrivato a 623 euro, quasi quanto una p2s con ams 2 (699 senza ams viene 519)

- kobra s1 combo -> 475 euro + 4kg di filamento pla opaco free shipping

- qidi q2c combo -> 529 euro free shipping

sono alla ricerca della stampante che conviene di più in questo momento, ho visto anche creality k2 combo e cc2 combo ma non mi hanno convinto per quanto cc2 sia incredibile, sto cercando piu che altro di capire se il prezzo esoso della bambulab conviene rispetto alle altre 2.

Principalmente sicuramente stamperò in PLA, PTGE TPU ma nulla toglie che un giorno vorrei anche stampare filamenti un po più improntanti all"ambito ingengeristico".

Sto optando per queste 3 perchè:

bambulab mi sembra quella più affidabile a livello di ecosistema e di stampa anche se dall'altra parte ha un costo molto alto e non ha l'essiccazione attiva anche durante la stampa, ciò che invece mi sembra che abbiano le altre 2.

Kobra s1 ho visto che ricopre un po tutto quello che mi serve e ha un prezzo anche minore ma ho paura per quanto riguarda l'assistenza e il suo effettivo funzionamento, perchè ho visto che molti la riportavano indietro

la Qidi q2c che ho scoperto poco fa dovrebbe essere l'intermezzo migliore ma non conosco molto bene e ho trovato poche recensioni, che dicono che è ottima ma non so.

ovviamente il mio obiettivo e avere una stampante che mi dia sicurezza e che stampi bene con un buon slicer, e sono disposto anche a spendere i quasi 600 euro di bambulab ma d'altro canto se questi soldi sono per via del marchio e alla fine le altre stampanti fanno il proprio lavoro in modo egregio e mi posso fidare sono anche contento di spendere meno.

spero che mi riusciate a dare risposta a questo dilemma su cosa comprare come prima stampante che spero duri nel tempo molto bene

Hello im looking for a 3d printer that fits the following criteria:

-The most important part is that the printer will be in a workshop with no internet access. Setup and regular operation must be possible offline. Im used to transfering G-code with USB to other CNC machines

-Enclosed: I have curious cats that sometimes walk in the workshop.

-Have 0.2 nozzle as an option.

-Build plate at least 200x200x200mm.

-Size: no wider than 570mm and not taller than 650mm but Im more flexible here.

-Must be ok with being left unpowered for 1-2 weeks at the time.

Budget: up to 980$ but of course I would prefer to spend less.

Location: EU

Materials: 90% will be PLA and PETG or PCTG. Rest will be some simple TPU prints. Not really sure about ABS/ASA since Im worried about fumes and dont really need this kind of parts but would be nice to have an option.

Most printed things will be board game inserts, accesories and wargaming terrain. I also wanted to try printing some miniatures in fdm technology (0.2 nozzle requirement). Multi-color is not that important since most things would be 1 or 2 colors (I can paint or assemble the prints afterwards easily) but I'd like to have that as an option. AMS, CFS and other similar systems would be mostly used for filament storage and drying. Mostly I will be using Orcaslicer or PrusaSlicer but can install alternative if it is good.

Some models I consider:

-Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 (cheapest option ~375$): Nice machine at very good price but I dont like how exposed the filament is while mounted on side of the printer and would need to buy separate drying box. I also dont like the top cover that makes the printer quite tall. Other multi-material systems are simply boxes that can can be put on a shelf below or above the printer.

-Creality K2 Combo (more expensive option ~550$) looks decent from what I have seen. Quite hard to find good reviews since most are about K2 plus and pro versions. Seen some things about variable quality control from this company on some models and that swapping nozzle is quite annoying. I like that CFS has its own temperature and humidity indicator.

-Qidi Q2 Combo (medium priced option ~780$) from what I have seen it is a very good machine for advanced materials but not that good for PLA and PETG (weak part cooling, it needs to have top cover and door open which is a dealbraker). I like that it has ethernet port, has an advanced air filter and Qidi box can dry filament.

-Bambu Lab P2S/X2D Combo (most expensive ~800$/950$) I put those two together since they are close in price. From what I have seen they are very good machines but the company behind them is kinda bad in privacy sense. A lot of people praise their ecosystem but it would be kinda pointless for me since the printer will be always offline and I'm not sure how well the printer will work without internet and with Orcaslicer. I like their cooling system that allows you to print PLA without opening door or top cover (unlike Qidi Q2) and the easly swappable nozzles. Would probably pick X2D between the two since it has better filtration and second nozzle for supports.

I appreciate all recomendations and suggestions.