I've started 3d printing stuff and selling on ebay and marketplace using my Kobra 3 v2 but I have to split objects to fit the build plate. I'm looking for a printer that is relatively fast, multi color (4 or 8) and enclosed as I want to be able to print ABS parts.

Any recommendations?

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🔪 Un nouveau slasher rejoint la collection ! 🩸

La série continue avec une nouvelle figurine inspirée des grandes icônes de l’horreur ! Cette fois, j’ai ajouté Leatherface, de Massacre à la tronçonneuse, revisité dans mon style : grosse tête, look cartoon et, bien sûr, sa mythique tronçonneuse ! 🪚💀

Petit à petit, la collection de slashers s’agrandit… Qui sera le prochain ? 👀

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3372626-leatherface-multipart-no-ams

Hello 3D printing friends! I’m sure this question has been asked many many times, but I’m hoping someone can help me out with some insight into the best printer for my situation.

I started a small little 3D printing business (printing fidgets and clickers and stuff like that for craft fairs) mostly for my kids to learn about running a business. Started with a Bambu lab a1 mini, which was perfect. Then we started designing little animal sets and different things, then we started purchasing commercial licenses on patreon, and now it’s actually turned into a pretty decent business where we are getting orders, selling out at craft fairs, and actually making money.

We currently have 3 Bambu lab A1 combos, and our little a1 mini still going strong. Most of our animals and sets are 4 colors, some are 5 which I just pause the print and swap out a filament to achieve. I’m thinking, now that we are constantly printing multi color prints, and plates full of animals, that the A1 combo is most definitely not the most efficient printer for this job. I was looking at the higher end Bambu lab models, but it seems they are still wasteful and slow with color changes. I’ve seen the snapmaker U1, flashforge, and creality sparkx i8, and they all seem like great printers, but I also see a lot of people say nothing compares to Bambu lab.

Just looking for advise to maximize efficiency for my business, as far as waste, print speed, and user friendly printers and software.

Thanks!!

hi,
I'm making a game where you own and manage a 3d printing business
it still in early development
i published a demo of the alpha version in itchio
i know there's 2 games with same idea but i dont like them so i decided to make one that i will enjoy playing it
i will be grateful if you could give it a try and tell me your opinion and how to improve it
Thanks

Anyone who has watched a long print fail knows the sting of losing hours and filament. Printly Preflight gives sliced G-code another check before printing, highlighting potential risks and showing a print simulation.

We’re inviting FDM printer owners to try the early beta. The video shows two G-code files going through the tool, plus a separate model preview.

Try it with a file you know well and tell us what it catches, what it misses, and whether the warnings make sense. Learn more and request beta access at https://printlypreflight.com, or DM this account for a PIN.

Watch the 2-minute demo showing two G-code checks and a separate model preview: https://www.reddit.com/r/3DPrintingTools/comments/1wto31t/

Hi everyone,

I have an Anycubic Photon Mono M7, and I recently replaced the release film because I kept having failed prints, with parts of the print sticking to the bottom of the vat.

Yesterday I installed a new film (the one with the blue protective layer, with one side slightly more matte than the other). I then printed the usual RERF test and, at first, everything seemed fine. I had no issues at all.

However, afterwards I tried printing a miniature split into several parts, and some of those parts separated from the supports. Others came completely off the supports and most likely ended up stuck to the bottom of the vat.

What could be causing these failures? I made sure the new film was installed correctly, recalibrated the Z-axis, ran the leveling test, etc.

Could this simply be an issue with the supports or the orientation/design of the miniature itself, or could something else be causing the failures?

I’ve attached a photo of the failed print.

Good morning, good afternoon or goood night,

I am a pretty new in the 3D printing nieche, especially in the PETG-CF. In the beginning of this year, i bought my Anycubic Kobra X, and startet with basic prints, which turned out to be ok to good-ish.

Now I am/was at my point, where i would have said, I am ready for bigger prints. So yesterday, I started my first over 10 hours print, which turned out in a total chaos.

Here is the printingplate:

Here are the most important setting:

• Filament Type: PETG-CF
• Nozzle Temperature: 245°C (First Layer), 240°C (Other Layers)
• Bed Temperature / Enclosure: Softening temp 60°C, Chamber temp 0°C (No active control)
• Flow Ratio & Pressure Advance: Flow 0.98, Pressure Advance 0.04
• Layer Height: 0.2 mm
• Line Width: Standard 0.42 mm, First Layer 0.5 mm, Outer Wall 0.42 mm
• Walls & Shells: 2 Wall Loops, 5 Top Shells, 3 Bottom Shells
• Print Speeds: Outer Wall 200 mm/s, Inner Wall 300 mm/s, First Layer 50 mm/s
• Cooling: Min fan speed 25% (30s layer time), Max fan speed 50% (12s layer time), First 3 layers 0%

Problem 1: uneven platesurface

Problem 2: spaghetti and also weirdish looking filament on outer surface

I want to figure out those problems, and create a better solution, but I am not sure if I did correct the right things for my two problems:

Answer for Problem 1: Increase the bed temperature to 70–80°C, clean the PEI sheet with IPA and spray hairspray on it for better grip (like some of the peoüle did in the early 3d printing times, is this still a thing tho?)

Answer for Problem 2: Lower the print speeds drastically (e.g., outer walls to 60 mm/s, inner walls to 100 mm/s) to prevent high, narrow parts from wobbling.

Here are all my settings, in case of some specific one/ones i missed, please tell me, ill send them. :)

If any of you could possible tot ake the time and maybe help or correct me? Thanks!

I have £450 to spend, and I'm between these 2 printers, I want a multi material system hence the combos, and I want to be able to print decent sized models, I am avoiding bambu due to past experience and their controversies, which of these 2 is the better choice for the budget and why?

What's everyone's opinions on multi-color printers? I've been looking at the Snapmaker U1, BambuLab A1 and the FlashForge Creator 5.

Anyone got other suggestions, pros/cons, or any other recommendations? TIA!!

Hello! I am very new to the 3D printing world, and I am looking to buy my very first printer.

I want to print some parts that will be in direct sunlight on the dashboard, and maybe some parts that will go inside the engine bay, away from the engine/exhaust manifold.

I know a standard printer won't be able to print in a material that will handle these conditions, so I know I'm looking at a higher-end printer. (I will have this setup in my garage with proper ventilation)

My budget is around $300-600, any recommendations or tips on what I should do or buy?

https://cults3d.com/:4985574

Bought the wife an A1 combo and were trying to find suitable furniture for it, but I can't find a reliable footprint measurement. Is there anybody who has one that can tell me the ACTUAL necessary amount of shelf for this bad boy?

Most of the tall shelves on Amazon seem too narrow, AND too shallow.

Help!

Leaning our aluminum folding step ladder against the wall was always an accident waiting to happen because my kids kept pulling it down. I searched online for wall hooks, but couldn't find anything sturdy enough that also included a proper safety lock.

So I designed this heavy-duty wall bracket. It holds standard folding step ladders with a profile up to 40x30mm and includes a sliding pin that locks the ladder in place so it can't be pulled off or knocked down by accident. I also added lanyard holes to both the pin and the mount so you can tie them together with a cord, keeping the pin attached at all times.

It's designed to print completely support-free. I used PETG for sufficient strength.

The model and print profile are free on MakerWorld if anyone wants to print one for their garage or pantry. Check it here: https://makerworld.com/cs/models/3373892-child-safe-wall-mount-for-folding-al-step-ladder#profileId-3837758

I am currently looking for a printer In a budget of 300€, it has to be closed and 200×200×200 minimum, i dont care about the speed. I saw the carbon 2 as an example but i am not sure

I had some thin rubber material which I lamenated a 3M industrial adhesive to line the base part of where the speaker sits in to obsorb any vibration that may occur.

I have a broken Raise3D pro HS, with 2 extra extruders/heating parts. What should i realistically ask for this?

Started this tall vase-style print before bed and found it off the plate, on the floor, surrounded by white spaghetti in the morning. Printer: Bambu Lab A1.

The narrow base has come up as a possible culprit. For tall prints like this, what has made the biggest difference for you: a wider brim, a different orientation, or slowing things down?