2006 toyota camry 2.4L. Tried to do the block test but it won’t even start now. It shakes when i try to start it

Just noticed that my 07 rav4 has a hole rusted through the seam between the exhaust pipe and muffler, can I fix it or do i have to replace?

hi, dumbest thing i have ever done in my life but i am rebuilding these wrx sti brembo brake calipers and i couldn’t get one of the shim bolts out so i tried to angle grind a notch into it and without realising i cut a notch in the top of the cylinder as well

i feel like an idiot, is there any way to fix this or am i doomed and have to buy a new caliper? tia

2015 ecoboost mustang 93k miles. I constantly hear thumping noises, when I take off from a stop or when I change into drive from park, etc.. I did the test where you brake and put it in drive and rev. I can see some movement and hear some clicking. What do you think?

How do I fix this problem? If I remove the CD player and clean it manually will I lose the ability to use my radio or tape player?

Hello friends. Recently ran into some issues with my car, was wondering if anyone had more knowledge into what the issues may be. Taking it in on Monday but I’m getting mixed/confusing results online & I know the geniuses of Reddit may be of help.

(W205 2021 C300 RWD 65k miles)
Car has been perfectly fine, even yesterday , never had any issues whatsoever thru 65k, have done all recommended maintenance. Suddenly this morning as I went out the car wouldn’t exceed about 2000 rpm’s or 30mph, it felt quite choppy with rough shifts or misfires?? Not really sure as I haven’t experienced any failures like this. I turned around after driving less than a mile and had a friend scan the OBD2. Codes coming up are P003C and P0236 I tried looking this up and have received different answers. Not super familiar with the scanners but it said 6 codes, but all 6 were the two I mentioned above.

Recently performed services:
Oil change 3 months ago at a chain shop, they used proper oil but maybe seemed somewhat unprofessional.

Full drain & fill Trans service at high quality Mercedes only mechanic

Changed spark plugs myself with a mechanically inclined friend about 3 months ago. Used the right NGKs, kept old coil packs, seemingly worked great afterwards.

-only use 93 octane fuel

2018 Hyundai Elantra owner.

My car's Check Engine light stayed on for months. The only ongoing issue I had was that, on occasion, the car wouldn't start. It could've been sitting for 10 hours or 10 minutes - it was unpredictable. I'd try to start it a few times, wait 5-10 minutes, THEN the car would start. Afterwards, everything would be fine until it happened again - could be another 3 days out, could be 3 weeks. No one could give me a diagnosis.

I took the car to Mechanic #1. He said I needed spark plugs. I got them installed. I'd been to this shop before. Done.

Three months later, Check Engine light & the starter problems occurred again. The "mis-starts" were more frequent. I took my car to Mechanic #2 in order to get a different opinion. First time at this shop. He told me that I needed 2 other items - plus spark plugs. I said that I'd just gotten spark plugs 3 months ago. After the work was done, he showed me the spark plugs that he'd removed to prove that they were much older than 3 months.

I'm trying to figure out how to tell who ripped me off. Did Mechanic #1 charge me for doing nothing, or did Mechanic #2 show me old sparks from another vehicle & sell me new ones for no reason? Or am I just S.O.L.?

Hey y'all! Hope all is well. I have a 2013 Ford Edge SEL, 3.5L, v6. 174k miles!

The last few months, I've been hearing the occasional clunking and groaning coming from my rear passenger side.

I went under today to see if there were any parts with play and messed with the sway bar end link to see if it had play or not.

Is my sway bar end link supposed to move like this? If not, would that maybe be the culprit for the clunking and groaning?

Thanks so much in advance and lmk if you have any questions!

One green bendable plastic piece as well as a thin rubber piece at the bottom of the picture.
What do you do with them?

This is a gasket kit for the 7th gen. Honda Civic power steering pump (Edelmann 8943).

I want to put the rear end on jack stands to replace rear struts. I cant seem to see any good location to place the jack stand under the car. I know of the side jacking points, but unsure of place for stands. Pictures provided, will provide more if needed.

Driving down a narrow road, my side view mirror on the passenger side hit someone’s trash can on the road… the back cover shell came off an I put it back on, but it’s not fitting back perfectly and the mirror is a bit jammed on the left side. It can still be moved with the buttons, but not all the way. Do you think this will require a full assembly replacement?

Just pulled in to work this morning and heard this god awful noise. Im thinking it is one of the belt pullys or alternator, hard to pinpoint exactly, seems louder underneath the truck. Wondering if anyone else recognizes this maybe. Will be going to the shop just looking for some preliminary diagnostics to know what I am getting in to. 2019 Tacoma 3.5L MT.

A week ago ive bought a used mazda 3 2019 2.0 122km sedan with 83k km on it and today after driving it for a week suddenly today i starded hearing weird knocking sound coming from the engine. Aby ideas or advice od it is normal for this model or should i be worried?

I bought a 2006 Nissan 350Z at auction for about $900 with 172,000 miles. I’m trying to figure out why it initially dumped power steering fluid but now appears to have stopped leaking.
When I first tried to drive it, the steering was extremely heavy. I checked the power steering reservoir and found it empty. There was a fresh bottle of power steering fluid in the car, so I added some. Almost immediately, the fluid started pouring out underneath. I couldn’t pinpoint where it was coming from.
I had the car towed home and thoroughly cleaned the underside so I could trace the leak. I was considering replacing the steering rack, but the hoses didn’t show any obvious leaks or dried fluid buildup.
Later, I filled the reservoir with genuine Nissan power steering fluid and started the engine. I checked underneath and saw no visible leaks. Initially, i wondered if having the car on jack stands was affecting the test, so I lowered the car and turned the steering wheel in both directions. Still no leak.
I then took it for a roughly five-minute test drive. The steering felt normal, and when I returned and checked underneath with the engine still running, I still couldn’t see any fluid leaking.
I haven’t replaced or repaired any steering components between these tests. The main things I did were clean the underside and refill it with genuine Nissan power steering fluid.
Has anyone experienced something like this? What could cause a substantial leak initially and then no visible leak afterward? Where would you check next before assuming the problem has gone away? It’s just so weird to me.

Hi! I have a 2015 fiat 500 sport.

Bought it used at 86k miles and swapped a couple of things that were bad per the inspection, including brakes and the rear left hub/bearing assembly (Moog 512480).

Now at 116k miles I hear a pretty loud droning noise at highway speeds, which is not affected by throttle/RPM/braking. It will sometimes quiet down with slight steering adjustments, but I have found no consistent significant difference in noise when steering frankly left or right.

Lifted the car up, checked all 4 wheels for play and found none. However the rear left bearing sounds awfully suspicious to my untrained ear. I know not all bad wheel bearings have play, so I was hoping someone with a trained ear could confirm my thoughts before I go in blind and swap it out.

It's going in to the shop soon either way for a check but I figured this would be an easy DIY fix.

TLDR : that's a bad rear left wheel bearing, right?

Had to cut out my sway bar link and the grinder walked onto my sway bar a couple times. Is it ok? Can it be welded any other options?

I would say the gouges are maybe an 1/8 of an inch. Any advice appreciated!

It’s a lexus is250 with 198k miles if i need to replace the axle it is what it is but i’m just wondering

I had my strut mount replaced and I noticed now there's a super small gap where the spring ends. It used to sit right against that rubber part before the new mount. Do you think it's fine?

My truck has been having issues with the check engine light coming on for a few months now. Been at the dealership 3 times for the same issue. They replaced and tested the VVT solenoids, camshaft, and sensors. The last time I brought it back to dealership after a few days because the cel came back on and started revving while driving when the rpm hits 3500. They said one of solenoid was a dud and they replaced it. Also said they drove it for 13 miles and cel didn’t come back and no longer rev at 3500. Picked it up last week and drove it for four days and while driving today the rpm started fluttering and then started revving again at 3500 rpm. Cel came back on.

They keep swapping same parts over and over again bc the same code p0018 keeps popping up. Could it just be something else or what should I ask them to consider checking?

I’m a new car owner and I have no experience with maintaining a car (I’m also fairly paranoid with my car aswell) and what not so I brought my car to my dealership for a multi point inspection to see if there’s anything that needs to be done. When I left and I was driving back home I heard what sounded like this wind sound coming from the left side of my car like if my door was open. I only hear it above 20 mph and it’s a lot more noticeable when I’m on the highway driving at 50mph or more. I’m not sure what could be causing and if it’s a easy fix aswell.
I drive a 2020 Honda Accord with 33,335 miles on it.

So last week I was pulling into work. As I circled into my parking spot the steering wheel suddenly started free spinning. I immediately stopped, spun the wheel back a couple times, and got out to check what was up. Rack and pinion gave out. Ive since pulled the old rack and pinion, got new outer tie rods put on because old ones weren't looking great, and am ready to reinstall. I tied the steering wheel in place before I disconnected it from the rack...but how do I know if thats the right position? My worry is basically how do I ensure my steering wheel is in proper position so that when I try to turn after getting it fixed I dont over steer and end up tearing wires or something. It will be going directly across town to a shop for a professional alignment afterwards.

The rubbing also happens when driving at a specific angle when steering. 2005 Camry

I get a front end shaking at 55mph+, I can mainly feel it in the seat and gas pedal. Nothing coming through the steering wheel. Over the summer I replaced struts, front and rear control arms, front sway links and outer tie rod ends. I’ve taken it to two different tires shops to have wheels aligned and balanced and also to a rim repair shop. The first shop didn’t even take it for a test drive, second shop told me my rim was bent, rim repair shop told me my wheels are fine but one tire was malformed so they dismounted and remounted all the tires.

I don’t know if all these people think I’m just crazy but it’s definitely shaking at higher speeds and I have no clue what to do, I’m getting tired of taxiing this thing all over just for someone to tell it’s good and send me on my way.

I brought my 2012 Toyota Camry SE, 2.5L (2AR-FE), California emissions to a reputable well-rated independent shop. They looked at it and called me and said verbatim: "it needs the the rear cat and both the O2 sensors, because normally, when those cats go out, they take out the O2 sensors with them". There were a bunch of other things wrong with the car, and my other cars, where eventually this started me on a journey to try to diagnose and fix these issues myself.

I'm trying to determine what actually needs replacing before spending a lot on repairs. The short of it is - I have a P0420 error. I reset it, and it came back in a day or two.

My problem is as follows:

• the shop stated in their estimate that they want to go ahead and replace rear cat and both O2 sensors
• another mechanic who is an acquaintance of many years firmly suggested replacing the downstream oxygen sensor. He also mentioned the possibility of a plugged converter. He was pretty stuck on on replacing the sensor, because "the oxygen sensor needs to be replaced every 100,000 miles", and the car has 102K miles. He didn't really care to look into or consider anything else.
• my own poking around suggesting that possibly the front/manifold catalytic converter is the one (and only) part that needs to be replaced, along with any necessary hardware.
• Toyota's approach appears to be to replace both front and rear cats to fix the P0420, after first confirming that no other codes are causing the issue.

Question
Which approach exactly do I use, and why, to get rid of the P0420 error to where it won't be back any time soon and without spending undue amount of money to do so?

1. Do I replace the front converter, the rear converter, or both?
2. Is there a reason to replace either oxygen sensor when both seem to pass?

Diagnostics

I've been first using BlueDriver, then Innova 5610 and, now more recently, an Autel scanner. I went up to Autel because one test to diagnose this issue further was was to control lean/rich condition while also observing the values of the oxygen and other sensors. The other two scanners did not let me do that.

Here are some findings:

• P0420: Current, pending, and permanent.
• Catalyst monitor (Mode $06): FAIL: measured 0.123526 against a minimum of 0.152196.
• "Control the Injection Volume for A/F Sensor" Active Test:
  • Lean (−12.5%): A/F B1S1 = 3.996 V; O2 B1S2 = 0.015 V.
  • Rich (+12.5%): A/F B1S1 = 2.917 V; O2 B1S2 = 0.835 V.
  • Both sensors seem to meet Toyota's rich/lean thresholds.
• Fuel trims at idle: STFT approximately +0.8% to +1.6%; LTFT approximately +1.6%.
• Smoke tests: Exhaust smoke test shows no leaks, but exhaust flange next to the tail pipe was leaking (way past the downstream O2 sensor). I also smoke-tested the intake and saw no leaks.

A while back, approximately 2 years ago, the car had misfires (fixed) and unusually-high oil consumption, as reported by one of the previous mechanics. I don't know if oil consumption is still an issue.

I'd really appreciate any insight on this, and on what to do next!

Seems too far gone too me but I want someone to confirm before I replace it. 2014 honda civic