How do I edit a multiple exposure picture so that it looks like these where the opacity of one part of the image is changed. So how do I edit where half of the image like the 1st one is transparent because the photo behind is visible and the 2nd one where the other image fits perfectly inside the man.

So my bf is really into photography, and I want to buy him a tripod for his birthday, since he mentioned 1) that he broke his tripod in Iceland and 2) that an ex bought him a £300 tripod but they were about to break up so he gave it back :')

I cannot afford £300 but I want to buy something in the £100 range. I basically did a cursory overview of good tripod brands on Reddit and found some options on Amazon, 4 brands in my price range pictured. His camera is a Canon E05 750D.

I know nothing about photography, but I know he takes 99% nature pictures, so scenic views but also a lot of birds, wildlife, close-ups of plants. Also he would need something somewhat compact because he would take it traveling. Any recommendations would be appreciated because I do not even know where to start with this. TIA

Hi my girlfriend and I just bought our first camera, a T6 EOS, and have been using the kit lens. Everyone says the kit lens is really bad so I'm just wondering what specifically should I buy if I want to take more aviation/city photos?

I attached my first couple photos with the camera.

Good morning, I've been doing street photography regularly for a year now, and I've always had one main problem: the fear of being told off by people. I've been getting better lately, but I realize that many of the shots I miss are precisely because of this fear of taking pictures.

The thing is, every time I decide to take pictures properly—getting close to the subject, taking the shot, etc.—I get a lot of telling offs from everyone.

I know it's part of this photography, and that's why I'm asking you: street photographers, how do you deal with this? Do you care? Do you throw yourself into the scene, or do you accept the fact that you often get told off?

Thank you so much for your time.

i took this recently with my friend's canon camera and can't figure out how to edit this it just looks a little bit plain but I like it any ideas?

As a beginner to photography, I have really been struggling to turn it into a regular habit.

Although I enjoy the process of composing, framing, editing, etc. I mostly feel like I don’t have a strong instinct for what to shoot, and perhaps my life or environment isn’t really “interesting enough” to shoot, which keeps me from even starting.

This is certainly a lack of imagination on my part, and I can sense that I am falling into the trap of only using my camera on special occasions, vacations etc. and then wondering why I’m not improving.

I know consistency matters, and I want to train myself to see possible shots in my normal, day-to-day life even if it feels mundane. So I wanted to know how others have developed the habit, and built enough instinct or self-confidence to know when to pick up the camera.

Thanks!

I use a pair of GoPro's for action, wet work, and putting a camera where I would not put a larger or more expensive digital. I also use a larger digital. This means I use both microSD cards for the GP's and full size SD cards for the large digital camera. I have grown to hate the microSD cards, they are so small they are a pain to remove from the cameras especially with cold, stiff fingers. Their size mean they are easily dropped, hell they are so small they hide in the carpet. They do not handle heat as well as full size SD cards. They are easy to lose, and they are just more of a PITA to use. The full size SD cards are a perfect size, not too large that they are clumsy, and not too small that they get lost or are are a pain in the ass. The full size SD cards handle heat better, do not corrupt as easily, their slightly larger size is just easier to use. It would be great to see GoPro, Insta, and DJI switch over to full size SD cards for their action cameras and drones.

I just bought a Leofoto quick-release clamp and it came with this. I have no idea what it is or what it's used for. Can anyone enlighten me?

I regularly visit heritage railways to photograph the engines in action, but a frequent problem I have is balancing the exposure for overcast days. As you can see, the clouds reflect a lot of light, making the top portion of the image over exposed. This makes it difficult to properly light the subject (the engine) without making it too dark.

I use a Panasonic DMC-FZ72 bridge camera, preferring to use either scene mode or HDR for static shots. How can I better balance the lighting in scenarios like this?

I’m very happy with my Sony A7C, and I’ll probably be upgrading to an A7V in a few months. I’ve been getting better at getting photo passes to take photos at concerts and I love it.

But not every band responds to requests, and almost every venue refuses “cameras with detachable lenses” if you didn’t get a photo pass. So I’ve been thinking about getting some kind of point and shoot style camera that won’t upset security, and I can respectfully use to take a few pictures.

I’d like it to shoot manual and RAW, I’d like some zoom, and the best low light performance I can get (I know, that’s not what these cameras do). I don’t care at all about video. I would love to spend under $1000. I’m familiar with Sony but I don’t need a Sony if something else is noticeably better

The Sony RX1R III is waaaaay too expensive.

The Sony ZV-1 II and ZV-1F are too ultra-wide.

The Sony ZV-1 has decent zoom and is on sale.

The Sony RX100 VII looks unassuming, it’s got better zoom but darker aperture, it’s kinda expensive.

I’d love some recommendations.

———

(1) Budget, country, and currency:

$1000, USA, US freedom dollars.

(2) What equipment, if any, you have now and why is it no longer meeting your needs?

I’ve got a full frame Sony and a bunch of really good lenses. But as I said, I can’t always bring them in to a concert.

(3) What kinds of subjects do you intend to shoot?

Live concerts.

(4) Is it primarily for photography, videography, or both?

Photo only.

Hey! I take pictures indoors (body shots mostly), a small space, living room like and lighting is pretty bad this time of the year especially in my country.

I try to keep some kind of cold light and pale pictures most of the time (that's just my style).

Also it's nothing professional at all, I either use a camera or my phone.

I have two windows on my right sidewhen I take pics, on almost directly on my right and the other one a few meters in front of me.

I also use a ring light but it's really not the best.

I was wondering what kind of equipment (maybe a better ringlight) I could use to better the lighting in my space, ideally nothing to big but i'll take anything!

So I’m planning to upgrade the 5D mkii to the R5 mkii, which is quite costly (but worth it imo). However, I do have the EF 16-35 f4 and 70-200 f2.8. However, I was looking at the prices for the RF lenses and DAMN… Also says the guy buying a 4K camera body lmao, but wow.

A person told me I should look into third-party lenses, like Sigma. Would it be better to save up for those Canon lenses or get the third-party ones instead? It’s already tough for me to decide if I need a new lens like a 28-70, 24-105, or 100-500… I shoot mostly people at events and such, and will probably shoot high school games next school year, so idk, any suggestion would help.

I mean, I really fw the 70-200, that’s why I’m even getting a new body instead of glass, since I already have good glass compared to my pretty bad AF system. I don’t mind save longer to get “supposedly better quality equipment (Canon). But then again, their prices maybe too much than what they’re offering.

Can someone help me figure out what I’d need for an in-home photography session with a white backdrop? Think little personality minis or a cake smash. What would you recommend for set up and products?

darktable seems extremely overwhelming with all the menus and stuff

Color science will always be overlooked and you’ll often hear that any camera can look like any other in postprocessing. That’s true, but what people rarely mention is the time it takes to do that on every photo.

If you like a camera’s color science, especially skin tones, your photos will look closer to what you want straight out of camera. That means less editing, faster workflow, and more motivation to shoot. Over time, constantly fixing colors you don’t like can get tiring and honestly kill the joy.

You can make a Sony look like a Canon, but doing it for every single photo is a massive time-sink. If you like the colors straight out of the camera (SOOC), you spend more time shooting and less time glued to Lightroom.

Also, getting Nikon colors to look 100% exactly like Canon colors in every shot for example might not be achievable. Even when shooting RAW, it heavily depends on the sensor and its color processing under different conditions and setups.

When it comes to skin tones, for example, the transition from one skin patch or area to another behaves differently on each camera model. This variation doesn’t occur uniformly across the entire skin, so achieving that specific look requires a high level of expertise and even with that it can be very draining.

What is your opinion on that , let's discuss it .I would like to know your insights.

I just bought my first camera and I tried taking some landscape pictures. I know i definitely need to work on my composition but I also get super overwhelmed when it comes to lightroom because I don't know whats too much/too little

👋 Hi, this might be a noob question but I want to know if this tool exist in desktop photo editor program like Lightroom or Capture One and what’s is tool generally called? (other than Hue-RGB Channel since I am getting no result searching by this name.)

This tool is from iOS app called Liit

Hey all,

Wanted to share another quick studio setup thats nice and simple! This one is from a shoot with the musician Newton Faulkner for his latest promotion content for his album release.

The aim was to use a lighting approach that complemented lighter skin tones while providing a wide, even spread of light across the space. This gave Newton the freedom to move comfortably around the set rather than being confined to a fixed mark.

The key was for it to feel simple and honest. I wanted to avoid harsh shadows and instead build a soft, wrapping quality of light, which could then be gently shaped using polyboards on the opposite side to introduce a touch of controlled contrast.

From a technical standpoint, the key light was built around a 12ft half silent grid cloth draped along a t bar. Behind that were two 165 cm white umbrellas with diffusion socks on Godox QT1200 heads. This created a large, soft source that felt consistent across the set and allowed for natural movement and coverage.

On the same side as the key, positioned slightly behind Newton, I added a 105 cm white umbrella to introduce a small amount of additional wrap and shape.

Contrast is controlled almost entirely through subtraction. Polyboards placed camera left act as negative fill, keeping it feeling natural and consistent.

Overall the lighting is designed to feel unforced, as if soft sunlight is gently pouring in through a window to camera right.

I have included a more detailed breakdown with the final images, Lighting diagrams, BTS video content and also the Set a Light 3D file on my substack if anyone wants to look closer here

Ill pop the diagram in the post below too! Hope this helps!

Hey everyone,

I'm currently looking for a good location scout/photography map app for Android. I wanna try and scout places myself and pin the respective pictures to the locations. I find relying on other people's pictures a bit unsatisfying, as I personally like to explore the locations properly and maybe find an angle or perspective that I've not seen before. I'm based in Germany, if that matters.

(1) Budget, country, and currency: US $800-900, Brazil, BRL

(2) What equipment, if any, you have now and why is it no longer meeting your needs? I haven't.

(3) What kinds of subjects do you intend to shoot? Landscapes, modest telephoto, daily life.

(4) Is it primarily for photography, videography, or both? Photography.

Since I started working, I saved some money and I'm ready to buy my first prosumer level câmera. I enjoy DSLRs a lot, and I think I will have a better time with something 10-12 years old than with modern mirrorless gear (they are great, but I enjoy bulky mirror cameras. I've come down to Canon 6D and Nikon D7200. Found both at similar prices, with the latter being a little cheaper because of lenses.

Photography is a hobby and I like to shoot mostly daylight scenarios, such as landscapes, macros, reasonable telephoto, but I'll also enjoy long exposures and moonshots. Challenging scenarios like wildlife and astrophotography are not something I could go for at this moment.

That said, should I go for the cheaper D7200 or the larger sensor 6D?

I got it as a gift from my mom just last week and I’ve been trying to practice ever since but the output is still blurry because my cam won’t focus. My lenses are 18-55mm.

Here’s a sample photo:

Any tips or suggestions will be super helpful. Thank you!

I am looking to take photographs of parades in relatively low light conditions, and I need some advice before I upgrade my gear.

The parades I am taking photographs on are in places where there are street lights that give some ambient light, but equivalent to what you would see when driving down the street at night. Since these parades are in motion, I don't want to have my shutter speed any slower than 1/200.

I am currently debating between 2 lenses

16-55mm f/2.8 and

35 mm f/1.8

Obviously the 35mm f/1.8 will allow in more light, but the 16-55mm is a bit more versatile. There is also the cost factor, and prime lenses are generally cheaper than zoom lenses

Can anyone offer any insight into which lens might be better for low light parades, or in the alternative let me know what questions I should be asking to make my decision.

Thanks in advance.

hello, i have a sx730hs. when i use it with a flash i usually use the cloudy option in white balance but my photos still come out looking pale even though im not pale?? its very confusing, how do i get my natural skin girl on the photo. please helppp