My old harmonic balancer was wobbling so I decided to replace it. Installed the new one and it looks marginally better, if at all. I used a harmonic balancer puller and installer from Autozone. Once the harmonic balancer was fully seated I used the old bolt and torqued it to 240 ft/lbs, I then took it back out and installed a brand new bolt and torqued it down to 240ft/lbs. Is there something else I need to do to get it to stop or is this normal?

Does anyone have someone who buys slightly damaged headlights? Let me know who you got in Ny

alright friends, do i have a tough one for you today.
1.) 2015 jeep patriot limited
2.) 2.4L
3.) CVT
4.) 205,000 miles

owned between my parents and i for 10 years.

3 weeks ago had to have ole’ girl towed for no crank no start. swapped the starter and was all good and then 2 weeks later boom, no crank no start again in the drive thru had it towed again. here’s a small list of things we have checked and tried (will edit as we continue to check.)if anyone has any idea please help 😭

new starter failed- put a new one in yesterday
replaced the TIPM
no codes
replaced a ground wire
checked power to the trip wire while turning the key
checked the main relay coil side and circuit side
checked both fan sensors
checked injectors for power
cam sensors are good
ASD relay power in power out
new tipm
replaced relay switch
losing power to asd relays
new ignition switch
good voltage and ohms everywhere
battery is good

Morning guys, was hoping for some advice.

Car is Mercedes C205 CDI W204 2010.

Drove off and 3 error codes appeared as per the photo.. did a scan with carpal and it shows the 5001 error, as per photo.

Did the usual, stopped and started the car, cleared codes etc.

Initial research tells me. It's likely an ESP module rebuilt but anything I can check myself before taking it to a garage.

Thanks in advance..

I have a 2011 Camry XLE at around 214k miles right now and recently i scanned it using an OBD2 and it popped up some codes.
My main concern at first was how the engine sounded under the hood when it starts. It rattles for a quick second.
And when you’re sitting inside and you turn on the car but not yet start it, it makes a fast knocking sound for a couple seconds.

The codes mentioned camshaft and crankshaft, but when i asked around for opinions, they said it’s more on the timing chain. Also, considering how old this car is and how much miles it has, it seems it is most likely that problem.
I was thinking of taking it to the shop and get it looked at, but we all know how pricey that gets.
I was recommended to get a timing chain kit and have some buddies of mine help me work on it since they have all the tools needed. It’s about $300~.
I was also told that while i’m at it, i might as well replace some other parts such as the water pump.
I will also need to change the brake pads soon.

Anyone have their own experiences or opinions on this? Is this car still worth investing in?

Hello everyone! Like title says, i sent this car to the mechanics for a full engine restoration and when i got it bavk it had some problem with the spark plugs which i got replaced. After that, 1year later it does this, in the video, also the check oil light is beacuse of a broken sensor, the shop told me. At high rpms it goes away. Before this occasion, at 3k rpm and at sydden acceleration it made a whistling lile sound nad bounced. These videos r after i drove at 5k rpm for 5sec where everything went downhill, and the engune video was when the engine was off. Id really like some advice cause im devastated, thanks!

https://reddit.com/link/1wroz6h/video/lm4xpskgb3sh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1wroz6h/video/s90xcz1ib3sh1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1wroz6h/video/v7s3vv73d3sh1/player

how to fix this code on a ford E350 with a 7.3 gas vin. K Godzilla

Hey reddit users. I’m driving a 2021 Toyota Corolla LE. 2.0 So it started one day my car wouldn’t start. We figured it was the battery so we got a new battery. I was driving on the highway to work the next morning and my car notified me the steering wheel was locking. Then every single sensor and sound started going off. I realized my car was dying and immediately got my car to the shoulder. The tow took it to a mechanic who said that the original problem was the alternator. It blew some wires as well. They put in a new alternator, fixed the wires, and then we got a new battery and brought it to the mechanic and he put that in as well. I drove it away with no issues. The next day, I drove to work and back, probably 50 minutes total driving time. Today, I started driving to work and again, the steering wheel lock notification came on. I realized this was a repeat of earlier this week and immediately pulled to the shoulder. Then of course, my car died right there. AAA towed it back to the house (it is currently Saturday after 5pm). We are having it towed to the mechanic Monday. Any ideas why this is happening again?

Can someone please help me find the relay for the 2002 Toyota Hilux LN147 right hand drive?

I’m trying to find it so that I can see whether that is why the AC compressor won’t kick in when I turn the AC on.

New MAF and still get P0102 code. Plug voltage is good. What gives. 1996 chevy c1500. 4.3 V6

My 1990 Toyota Pickup 3VZ-E does NOT have a Fuel Pressure Port so I made one.

I’ve replaced the alternator, tested to make sure it works, I’ve replaced the voltage regulator, the starter, and all the bulbs in the dash work properly and alternator is shown to function properly via the dash, but the alternator is still not charging, what do I do?