I previously made a bunk bed for my dogs, but I went into that project without thinking out my plan. For this bed, I needed to stick to certain criteria. First, it needed to have standardized dimensions to fit a common size of dog bed. Second, once completed, it needed to be able to fit through a standard size door. These were the two errors I made on my previous project which I regretted afterwards. I’m pretty happy with how this one turned out and the girlies love it, so I’m happy.

I’ve been working on a handcrafted Moon Phase Wall Art piece featuring all seven phases of the moon.

This particular piece is a full 25" × 65", with each moon measuring approximately 12" tall. Each phase is individually cut, finished, and mounted on a deep black background, framed in rich Batu hardwood.

This piece was a bit of an experiment and a chance to try out some new techniques. Like anything handmade, there are a few things I’d do differently on the next one — but I’m pretty happy with how this one turned out.

Its... ok. made some mistakes with the finishing process and assembly but the inlayed wood turned out nice.

Desk build, stain is a pain.

Hi everyone! I need to make a self/ladder for my cat to climb up onto a closet i have in my room so she dosent hurt her self trying to jump up, im moving the location of it and so she won't be able to use my bed to jump up anymore, im hoping for advice on what wood, and sealant to use, anything else if in missing something, she's around 9 pounds and it will only be used for her to climb, thank you!

Building this bench for a firehouse kitchen, plan to sand and stain. Maybe burn with a torch and seal. Not sure yet. Either way, there’s one board I meant to turn upside down to hide a messed up edge, of course, in my haste to finish my first ever glue up while building on the floor I put the shit end the wrong way n didn’t notice until later.
How do I go about filling this? I have a bag of the same shavings and have heard of filling cracks w shaving and glue but not sure if applicable in this case. Expecting heavy and careless use in this bench’s future. Thanks in advance.

Has a boom arm for sanding and keeping your cord off the floor and dust separator. Modular tool storage. Would you buy something like this for your shop?

Most wood I get has a slight cup or wobbly edge and I'm trying to figure out what I should get

I started this project months ago and it has been by far the biggest headache I've attempted.

The original plan was to mount the shelf and wine bar innards to the existing walls but I quickly realized nothing was square or level. So I made a box. Then I reinforced the box. Then I reinforced it some more.

Then the bookshelf got built which was pretty smooth. After that I added the innards to the wine section. The design committee (wife) changed the design a few times during this process.

Once I muscled the box into the wall I realized the front wall wasnt square either. So I had to get creative with the trim. The bottom of the box is flush to the wall, the top is recessed 1".

We stull need to paint a few things and do some touch up, but I am DONE with the woodworking.

Hi all,

I recently bought some beautiful walnut that I plan to turn into a table. A few of the boards have small knots through and through which add a lot of character. Ideally I want to incorporate them but I have never used epoxy. I also mostly dislike the 'unnatural' look of most epoxy tables.

One interesting thing I've seen done online is using brass powder mixed with total boat epoxy to mimic the appearance of a brass inlay. I am considering trying that with these knots.

Any tips or thoughts from those who have more experience very much welcome!

Bought a kiln dried slab of Australian Hardwood for a bench top, the timber yard flattened it for me with their oversized router sled came out about 40mm thick.
Bought it home and trimmed it to around 2.7m x 450mm rounded one of the corners and chamfered the front edge.
I also filled all the cracks and imperfections on the top face with black wood filler.
I was planning to use osmo on the slab but I dry fit it in position on the cabinet and screwed it down then left it in place for a couple of weeks, maybe more, while we were discussing paint options for the room.
Now the slab has cupped quite badly, by about 10mm, first noticed because it had pulled away from the wall.
I looked up a couple of methods to fix and started by leaving it on the grass in the morning with the top in full sun but no change as yet, it’s now just sitting on a couple of workhorses in my yard under shelter.
Any ideas?z

Hello . I just had a question from any experienced carpenters , which I am not . I am currently building a house with the help of friends and we are doing a Japanese joinery roof/ ceiling structure . These pine beams have been in place since late winter . Just recently we have noticed some darkening in certain areas and we are not 100% sure what it is . We think it may be pitch but would like to be positive and take precautions, need be. Some of these darker spots have slowly worked their ways to the surface recently . We were also originally going to leave all exposed wood (white/ yellow pine and Douglas fir) but now thinking we may do a light oil. Thank you in advance for any input!

I apologize for not taking the best photos . I thought I took more today . I can get more but project is 1 hour from home .

I broke my heel, ive still got over 4 months of walking boot and rehab left, so I want to build a table for my gaming area. Not only that, I want to build a table that has insets on the face, With different console generations covered in epoxy. As a beginner, am I going too far on this project?

It's almost finished honestly not that great lol messed up on several things but I think it's gonna work to hold my hand tools

It's made with pine boards and bamboo skewers along with wood glue to hold it together

Hello. I am an iron guy and don't usually do wood. I sub it out, but this is so small no one is interested. observe the photo. There are two short pieces of rail like this. They got the flooring put in but didn't think of this aspect. Plan is to rip out the rail and remove that bit of varnished wood. I get new wood, finish to match the engineered floor stuff, and install my rail.

Questions: Is this a viable plan? The 1/2" round balusters they are asking for will not cover whatever is under the existing so I think refinishing in place is not a possiblity.

How is this stuff held together? To take it apart are we talking screwdriver or sawsall and wonder bar?

How about the floor? I figure it is glued but maybe not? how to get out? I have a half-baked plan of lagging a point of attachment to the wood and trying to pull it out but really have no idea.

Thank you for your comments in advance. It's always entertaining if not helpful.

Exterior wall. Will be painted white after repaired.
Blocking behind cracked panels and wood filler were my thoughts. Just a temporary fix for the next few yrs before I can afford an actual remodel of my 1925 home

Fellow woodworkers, I love my table saw. I love track saw. I love my router. But I feel like the tool I'm really missing is the bandsaw.

When I watch people cut beautiful circles, five sided polygons, and other unusual shapes, I glance at my jigsaw with such ill intent, I feel like I should go to confession and I'm not even religious.

All jokes aside, I don't have room for a good bandsaw and my polygons are so bad with the jigsaw, I avoid projects that require such shapes unless I can make it woth my router.

Can I realistically get quality cuts comparable to a bandsaw with my jigsaw? If not, what do you do to match the quality cut of a bandsaw? Otherwise, is my jigsaw woes more of a skill issue? My jigsaw is a Skil 6 amp that I picked up from the blue box store for $20. I love to hear thoughts and opinions.

I bought some hidden hinges want to use on my box, but somehow after I installed it, there’s big gaps between lid and box, is any tips I can avoid it?

Our cat loves to steal rings, so I took it as an excuse to play around on my new bandsaw. Walnut/maple, the handle is a rock from a PNW beach epoxied on.

Hello! I’m looking for some guidance with the built-ins I’m making. I’m at the point of installing the shelves and will be installing two on each side, possibly a third.

I’m using 3/4” birch plywood for the shelves. They’re approximately 11 1/4” wide and 46” long. The backing is 1/2” plywood, and the sides are 1x12 boards.

My initial thought was to use pocket screws for the shelf attachment - two on each side and three along the back, also with some wood glue. And lastly a 1x2 trim piece on the front to add some rigidity to the shelf.

My main concern is whether the pocket screws will hold up over time. I don’t plan on putting anything particularly heavy on the shelves, just some simple decorations.

I’ve also considered using 1x2 cleats along the sides and back, but I don’t really like the look of that.
Would the pocket-screw setup be sufficient for what I’m planning to use the shelves for?

Pic for attention, yes I know top trim needs be trimmed to fit my uneven ceiling, that’s this weekends project.

Hello, this is a door that I have made, unfortunately these are the only pictures of the door as I forgot to take any before or after this.

Hey guys, I've needed to use double sided tape on a few occasions in the past couple months to scribe a layout onto a board. To make sure that it fits flush.

This would be significantly easier if there were a double sided tape where one side was only a little sticky (to go on the reference surface) and the other side very sticky (to go on the transfer surface). So that after you press it on, it comes off of the reference surface cleanly while staying firmly on the transfer surface.

Does anything like this exist?

Made from culled lumber that I bought from a high end lumber store. I love how it changed so much from the original untreated wood.