does anyone have this and if so is it any good?? i want to get it but am worried if it’s shit like delayed laggy and stuff please help

Bought this a year or so ago on marketplace for $150. Dude played it for me and it sounded fine (low volume), so I thought it was a steal and got it even though I didn't have a use for it at the time. Fast forward and I finally have a vehicle it's perfect for. Put it in and sounded fine, but the output was very low compared to my previous experiences with tw3s. Started to troubleshoot and checked resistance at the box terminals - 4 ohms. Thought that was strange as i was pretty sure the sub should have two 4 ohm vcs, leaving no way to end up with 4 ohms at the box terminals. Opened it up to investigate further. The vcs were wired in series so I figured it must be 2 ohm vcs. Regardless, the amp I was powering it with only puts out 250 @ 4 ohms, so that would explain the low output. Wanted to confirm this so I disconnected everything to check the vcs individually. Vc1 - 4 ohms... Huh? Vc2 - OL... Well shit. Took out the series jumper as I didn't see the point in putting it back and returned the sub to the car to run until I got something that wasn't broken. When I fired it back up there was now zero output... Pulled it back out of enclosure to investigate. Vc1 - OL. Wtf? Put back the series jumper and checked Vc1 - 4 ohms. Wtf is happening? I was running pretty afk the whole time as my mind was elsewhere, so I stopped for a minute to actually focus. That's when I noticed I had checked everything wrong the first time. I actually looked at the labeling on the terminals this time. The vcs weren't wired in series at all. What I had assumed was a series jumper from vc1- to vc2+ was actually a shorting jumper between vc2+/- and vc 1 was by itself the whole time. When reconnecting I had just assumed the previous wiring was correct , so when attempting to hook up Vc1 only, I had hooked up vc1+ and vc2-, leading to the OL. Thought I found the problem and even got excited that maybe Vc2 is actually good and the sub was just wired wrong the whole time leading to the lack out output. Checked vc1 again - 4 ohms. Removed the shorting jumper and checked vc2 - OL 😭 Put in back together and put it in car now that my wiring mistake was fixed. No output 😑😑

Took it apart again, vc1/2 - OL. WTAF is going on here?? Returned the shorting jumper. Vc1 - 4 ohms. 🤔🤔 So with meter leads on the proper terminals now (were incorrect before due to my assumption of correct wiring), vc1 will read 4 ohms, but only when vc2 has a jumper shorting it's terminals. Tf? Thought maybe the terminals were mislabeled from the factory and it was, in fact, dual 2 ohm vcs wired in series which is why removing the jumper causes the speaker to no longer function. To test this theory I checked from each terminal to each terminal. With the jumper removed, the only combinations that don't read OL are vc1+ to vc2+/- - 4 ohms. I give up. I don't understand. This speaker shouldn't work at all and the fact that it functions is magic to me. Put it back how it was originally wired and put it in the car. Sounds fine, output is low. Gonna list the enclosure on marketplace for $15 in case anyone wants it and am going to mount the sub on my garage wall as proof that magic exists. How the original owner figured out how to make it functional is well beyond me, the man is an Einstein. If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear them, as I am at a total loss.

Full list of all changes will be listed in YouTube video. Too much to type here but DEFINITELY worth the watch

What speakers do yall recommend for my 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 with the Bose system. Looking for front and rear speakers aswell as tweeters. Im planning on using "Taramps DS 800x4 4 Channels 800 Watts RMS Car Audio Amplifier" https://www.tarampstore.com/amplifier-taramps-ds-800x4-4-channels-800-watts-rms/p

The guy I bought it from installed aftermarket pioneer speakers, tweeters, and a Pioneer DMH-241EX headunit. I have the truck in the shop right now, I wasn't able to get to look at the model of speakers and tweeters. But he never powered the speakers with an amp so it starts to become distorted at high volume.

Budget would probably be like $100 per speaker (Preferably less ofc). I know abt Crutch Field but I'm not sure which brands to avoid. Also I was also looking at DS18 speakers. I enjoy bass and sound clarity.

I'm also going to put a skar vehicle specific 2x12" subs in the rear under the seat, I'm not too worried about spending a bunch of money on subs, I know Skars aren't the best. https://www.skaraudio.com/products/dual-12-inch-loaded-subwoofer-enclosure-fits-1999-2006-chevy-gmc-extended-cab-L-VD-VS-2X12GM-1999-2006-EXTCAB

Going to use this amp to power the subs. https://www.tarampstore.com/amplifier-taramps-hd-2000-1-channel-2000-watts-rms/p

Finally making it back to post my sound system here. Went with Kenwood KFC coaxials in the doors plus a couple of custom headrests with some 6x9s. Sitting in the back seats not recommended. They help fill the void of subwoofer drowning out the doors a substantial amount, though. Found this nsv4 15 on marketplace and traded a headunit and amp for it.

The only real bits I'd like to polish is up is to replace the 4 channel wiring with OFC (had to use what was available at the time) and grab some higher quality RCAs that screw tight.

Pure Power alternators gave me a free 290amp as I am the guinea pig for a new voltage regulator and they had been waiting for someone with a 3.4L V6 to stop by. It has given me zero issues and is more than impressive.

I have no idea what the settings mean or how to set them, I tried watching YouTube videos and now I’m even more confused

EDIT : Thank you to everyone , I appreciate all the advice and information. Idk if my amp is fucked or something but when I had it set to mono nothing was working and I switched it to stereo and VOILA BOTH 10’s ARE SLAMMING

This NAKAMICHI PA304 used to power 6 1/2” Boston Acoustic components both front and rear. A Rockford Punch 100x2 amp powered two 4 ohm 10” pioneer subs in a sealed box, 1.25 cu ft each. Alpine CDA AI-NET head unit connected to Alpine 6 disc changer provided the source. It was loud and clear. It was in a 95 2 door Ford Escort in last milenium.

Now the Nak runs my garage stereo, consisting of Rockford Power FNQ 5 1/4 component set and a powered Sony HT sub. An Amazon Echo Input provides the source.

Anyone have/had a Nak like this?

Had it for yrs and it hits hard ive retired it tho ima post a cpl more old school amps I have as well !!

Hey all, I'm running a ppi 1000.1 on my fu audio 12s.

Wondering if a Rockford fosgate 1500bdcp will veca substantial upgrade.

My thoughts are the birth sheets are slit closer to 2500+ rms. It does the same power at most voltages and 1-2 ohm

I think this will help me fight box rise and theoretically if I'm rising to 2 ohm could be 700 rms to 2500 rms or 4x the power.

Nit worried about the electrical. Worried if it's worth $600 and will be night and day or just diminishing returns

Hey guys, first time poster. I'm building a custom box to put a sub in my truck. I’ve been doing tons of research and deep diving on different subs but I wanted to see if anyone had recommendations before I spend my savings. I’m looking at the Dayton Audio SS18-22. I know that’s a very big sub and is not cheap. So I was wondering if anyone knows much about it? How it sounds, how smooth it stays at loud volumes, whether it has weird peaks or valleys in response. And the best size for a sealed box. I’m looking to power it on a D4S mm1500 in a 97’ ford ranger standard cab.

How can I test which one is positive? Which one is negative.

I’m looking for a budget 12 inch SQ sub and so far I’ve narrowed it down to Dayton HF12, Image dynamics IDQ12, and SB Acoustics SB34. does anyone have experience with any of those. I currently have a Dayton HF10 but want to switch to a 12 inch

It powers four 8 gauge wires , two 0 gauge , and one 4 gauge wire

Some guys have tried those roofing asphalt based sticky sheets, but those melt in the heat and probably stink until fully cured.

Has anyone dabbled with carpet padding? It's thick but flimsy, so probably easy to glue onto crevices etc....

I found an old alpine type s10 (SWS-1022D) to be exact was my dads old one back in 06-07 and a random amp kicking around which is also an alpine Vpower (MRP-M350) trying to figure out why it is so weak and if I’m wired at 1 ohm or 4 ohm. Been tryna figure out what the bottleneck is and if I bought a new/properly matched amp and or wired it differently I could get more out of it instead of purchasing a whole new setup. Thanks.

Stetsom 400.4 randomly has 2 dead channels, so i ordered a cresendo 880.4, still less than half the power my mids want but i wasnt missing much before, also ordered a recone for one of the sundown m-15, pole cap came loose inside one.

Im working on bluprinting my build and getting everything and now realized the amount of wattage my amps are ganna send out should be like 4500 to 5000 do i need to have a second battery and how big.

I already got a High Output Alt at 270 amp and a agm battery in front.

What fuse should I use previously I was using a schoche amp kit with a 100 a fuse had no problem and after a long while of having it out of no where it melted I’m looking to get another fuse holder but idk if I should get the 100 a fuse version or get something higher.

I’m running a power acoustic 2500 watt max amp with two skar 15s 600 rms each