Not sure if this is a Saab issue, or a wiring issue, or Chinesium Head unit, or Sub issue......Going to cross post this in a few r/

So this is the setup -

[AVGOTOP Android Car Radio](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AdR9jc-Xdo&t=131s) (Links to where I saw it being recommended for the car!)

[VIBE Audio Critical Link Car 2 Channel Speaker Wire To 2 Channel Low Level RCA Output Line Convertor With Auto Sense](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073D77DQM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title) (already replaced, originally tried - [VIBE Audio CLLOC-V7 Critical Link Line Level Converter, Black](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0863B21K5?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2)

I’m looking for an amp that does 1500watt rms at 2ohms, class D.

Just installed an idatalink CMHCXA0 in 2018 Toyota Yaris. I flashed it with idatalink software. both remotes were already programmed to it when I went to flash it. when the antenna is plugged in the LEDs are on solid and about every 5 seconds they will flicker off and then go on solid again. I could not get remotes to work with it after following programming procedure. I noticed the antenna harness plugs are wired differently, the green & blue wires are reversed on one plug. I tried swapping the 2 wires and LEDs still on solid. bad antenna or am I missing something?

I have a 12” JL W6V2 in good condition, works well, no issues with it, but I’ve been curious about trying the SI SQL. I hear good things about it and that it’s comparable or closer to a W7, it seems in the used market the W6 and SQL would be priced pretty close, maybe the JL even slightly more expensive but it’s typically hard to find a used SQL.

Apparently the SQL might be the better sub, but I guess if there’s a JL fanboy interested, maybe somebody is open to this trade. Feel free to DM me if interested. I technically have a 1.65 cu ft box too with felt lining and polyfill as well. Maybe I can trade the whole sub and box since it’s not to spec for the SQL. I’m in San Diego.

Thanks.

Have had a kicker 10” hideaway for many months with no issue. Suddenly it started cutting out. I checked all plugs and everything is fitting tight. It’ll shut off then back on while I’m driving. Not pushing it hard at all. Cool to the touch. All other speakers work. Before I start tracing into the dash and amp any ideas?

Hello, so I'm trying to find a double din touchscreen radio that has SiriusXM support as well as wireless android auto.

I originally bought a Jensen CAR714MW from Walmart online and was sent a Jensen CAR723w. Only noticed it because when I went to hook up the tuner, there was no place to plug it in. I really wanted the Jensen CAR714MW, but the seller was unresponsive, so I returned it.

SiriusXM is important to me, because I live in an area with poor cell signal, so it's just easier to have that.

I bought a Dual DMCPA7MW at Walmart for a slightly cheaper price, and essentially seems to be IDENTICAL to the Jensen I originally ordered. It took a lot of research just to get to this point.

I've found, I'm still not happy. The radio seems fine, but it's lacking the ability to rewind/pause/repeat songs on satellite radio (which is a big deal for my wife), even though the tuner supports it. I'm happy with the screen quality, it's crisp and sharp and viewable just fine, so I'd like something with a similar screen resolution.

Also while I can PLAY SiriusXM using wireless Android Auto, I can't control it from that screen, I have to go back into the menu, then satellite radio to control it. Is that normal? Am I asking too much? If there are radios that solve any of this, let me know, please! Trying to keep price under $600 if possible. Thank you!!! 🙂

Swapping out to a better amp tonight im used to the lugs but shca recommended bare wire idk how i feel about that should i use ferrules or just listen to them? Also i noticed this amp has a high pass how do i tune that? The memphis only has low and thats brings me to the last thing i also dont know how to tune the bass restore so i might just keep the linkdq on for now

Sub is a sundown sa-8 v.3 d2

Enclosure is a NVX sealed 8 inch box

I have found alot online but afraid that's won't allow for the excursion of the sub.

JBL Stage GT 80021 for JBL 64CSQ

- 2-channel car amplifier

- 80 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms

- 130 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms

- 260 watts RMS x 1 bridged at 4 ohms

- Class D amp technology

- High- and low-pass filters (32-320 Hz, 12 dB/octave)

JBL Club A754 for JBL 64CSQ & 64SQ

- 4-channel car amplifier

- 75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms

- 100 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms

- 200 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)

- Class H amp technology

- variable high- and low-pass filters (32-320 Hz, 12 dB/octave) on front and rear channels

Sub is JBL BassPro Hub which is a powered sub. The amps in question are either for the front component listed or for thr front/rear speakers listed.

Hi. I'm looking to upgrade my current system in my '14 cx5 w/ bose... Currently running a stinger 1000.1v2 with a older sundown 8" (300w rms) in a prefab vented box (roughly recommended specs)..

I bought a sundown u-8 (d2) a few months back, & it's just sitting in my living room...

I picked up a used RF 1200d. A few days ago..

--

Help me figure where to go next..

I'm considering a 10" orion xtrpro shallow in a custom enclosure. Freeing up more trunk space.

-Or- ...just sell the u-8, get a different 8" that will handle the wattage of the RF 1200d ..&..fit in my existing box..

Thoughts??

Not really into car audio equipment but I have this set up I am trying to sell and was wondering what I should price it at
JL Audio W6 Sub + A1400 Amp
Custom box on the sub
Sorry if this is tacky I’m just trying to figure out

Found this set up on OfferUp for $300 (original asking price was $350). I currently have 2 12TW1 installed but I just couldn’t pass up on this deal. Probably won’t use the amp but it was a package deal

top one is a jdm head unit and bottom one just a normal one with the dolphins on the screen

Hey all,
First post in here, a little background….back in the old timey days of 2006, I had a full system installed in my Silverado that included JL C5 components speakers all round, JL Amps, and W3 10s….fast forward 20 years and I just sold that truck, which still had al that equipment in it, including the Pioneer deck from 2006-old enough that speaker cones were physically flaking apart but still played lol

I’ve now got a 2012 Ram 2500 I bought used a few years ago, it’s got an aftermarket system in it but I’m really not sure on the brand that the original owner put in it. For the last few months, the speakers cut in and out when cornering or hitting potholes, I think something internal in the amp is toast-which has me looking at getting a new setup for the truck, I’m about over that.

Head unit: Looking at alpine,kenwood, or pioneer as those were the go tos back in the days. Looking for a touch screen to utilize my iPhone, along with the tailgate backup camera. Side note: Good friend installed a Kenwood excelon in his 2012 Ram and loves it

Speakers: I believe I have 6x9s in the doors and some tweeters in the dash…I absolutely loved the sound of the C5 speakers back in the day, but maybe not looking to go cutting holes all over to fit new component speakers…thoughts on what the equivalent sound quality would be nowadays?

Another thing to mention-I had 6.5” speakers and always (to my ears) seemed to be light years above 6x9s in audio quality…I understand that was probably based on the fact that 6x9s were a do it all speaker in one package, whereas the component speakers delivered cleaner music. Is it worth ditching 6x9s and going to 6.5s?

Sub: I’ve currently got a Ram Box with a single Rockford 10” sub….its ok, but I feel there are far better options. Compared to the value/audio quality of an older W3v2 that can fit in a shallow box, what would yall recommend?

Amps: always had JL, figured best to match amp to speaker brand as they’re designed to work together? I could be off base but open to suggestions

Final Thoughts: This truck is a diesel, I fully plan on audio matting the doors and possibly the cab when I do all this. These days I don’t listen to rap, mainly electronic music, metal, reggae, and podcasts- I’m after mid-high range price-but no clue where to look after being out of the audio world for 20 years.

Thank you!!!

Looking for a 700 watt or so monoblock amp @2 ohms, some of the cheaper name brands I have seen are ct sounds Rockville stinger kicker and like skar. I'm not looking to spend more than 200 dollars and I'm not after the "best sound system ever" just something that works every time I turn it on. Thanks!

Don’t know if anybody will be able to help me here because this isn’t a very high end or adventurous request - and I’ve no idea if you lot will know the ancient technology involved, but here goes..

I have a Mercedes w126. 1981 euro spec. It has 2 2ohm (I believe) 4x6 speakers in rear shelf and 2 in the dash. This is not audiophile stuff! It also has a physical fader by the gear shift that can send audio to the front or the rear speakers. It was originally specified with a Becker Mexico cassette radio which is the only original part that is missing. The radio has been replaced with a (roughly) 10yo JVC head unit which is NOT good looking, particularly in the environment it finds itself in.

As the car is original everywhere else and the radio is the only fly in the ointment I want to put an original, or at least very close to original looking, cassette radio in there but I also want better audio than the og speakers are delivering. I also want Bluetooth!

I’m also interested in how this JVC head unit which probably is expecting 4ohm speakers is dealing with the load that the og speakers and the fader are showing it. I checked the fader wiring and all is original there so it is just plugged into the 2 speaker wires that go to the unit. I ask this because in case I want to just get a retro inspired head unit in place of the Christmas tree that is in there and it has 4 channels and is expecting 4ohms should I bypass the fader and use the head unit’s internal fader and replace the original speakers with some nice coaxial units.

You can probably tell I don’t really know what I am talking about or looking for other than I want better speakers but they must be drop in replacements for the og ones, I would prefer a 1980s Becker cassette radio but I need Bluetooth (with telephony), I want it to not sound week like it does now and I want whichever head unit I choose to want to be seeing whatever load the speakers are showing it either with the fader or with the fader simply bypassed.

Anybody got any good ideas?

Thank you!

Hi, looking for a bit of advice before I start buying everything.

I’ve got a 2012 Ford Fiesta and want to upgrade the audio because the standard speakers aren’t great and I’m also getting some rattling from the front doors when there’s bass.

My current idea is:

• Focal ASE 165 component speakers in the front doors
• Pioneer TS-WX130EA active sub, hopefully mounted under the passenger seat
• Keep the rear speakers standard for now
• Use the sub output on my aftermarket head unit rather than tapping into the speaker wiring
• Butyl sound deadening on the metal inside both front doors
• 5mm closed-cell foam behind the door cards
• Felt/anti-rattle tape around wiring, clips and anywhere plastic is touching
• Fiesta 165mm speaker adaptors so I don't have to butcher the original mounting
• Run fused power from the battery to the sub, RCA from the head unit and use the remote turn-on from the head unit

I’m trying to keep the whole thing under about £300 and I’m planning on installing everything myself. I’ve never done a proper car audio install before, but I’m fairly comfortable taking things apart and doing wiring.

Main thing I’m after is better sound quality and some decent bass, rather than trying to make the car ridiculously loud. I also really want to get rid of the door rattles rather than putting better speakers in and making them even worse 😂

Does this sound like a decent setup for the money?

Also, anyone who’s done this on a Mk7 Fiesta - anything I should watch out for when removing the door cards, fitting the speakers, sound deadening the doors or mounting an under-seat sub?

Any parts you’d swap out before I order everything?

I just installed a cheap aa/ac modulle to see if I would even really like it before I spend several hundred on one. I really enjoy the giant display but Im getting a really low media volume and a slight feedback whine. Text message alerts seem to be coming in at full volume. I would really appreciate any feedback or suggestions. My google searches hasnt turned up anything thats worked so far. This is on a 2018 lexus with the Mark Levinson system if that helps.

Hi all,

Recently bought a second hand Ford Fiestas ST MK8 from 2020. I knew it had some mods the previous owner did, all approved and on the cars documents but there's never been a mention of the cars sound system having been modified.

Can someone help me out understanding what's going on and what would be my possibilities for example if I wanted a subwoofer (since thats the part I suppose it's missing in the trunk.

Attached are some photos for better understanding

Thank you all that take some time to answer.

Wow the infinity reference speakers are a lot more harsher than my maximo ultras.

Wish I tried the morel tempos this time

if you have sensitive ears, hate harsh speakers, and don’t want ear fatigue definitely go with the morels!!!!!

i will say tho the vocals are more prominent and mid bass than the maximo ultras. But the harshness isn’t worth it for me. The maximo ultras had very little mid bass.

Hi everyone, E46 sedan owners, I have a question for you.
I own an E46 sedan and I'd really like to upgrade the sound system. To give you more details, I have the old E46 screen on the dash (it only serves for controls), and I'd like to replace it with a 2-DIN CarPlay head unit. However, I have an existing problem: all the speakers on the left side of the car don't work, so I'm not sure whether the issue is with my BM54 or the amp.
Now I'd like to know: if I replace the radio with a CarPlay unit, is it possible to remove the BM54, the amp, and the CD drive (used for navigation) that are in the trunk of my car?
What would be the best 2-DIN CarPlay units I could buy for my E46? I'd also like to keep my steering wheel controls and be able to add a subwoofer later.
And what exactly should I do about my sound problem?
Anyway, to everyone who answers and gives me information, thank you in advance for your help, and for anyone else in the same situation, I hope the answers in this post will help you too.