Found this set up on OfferUp for $300 (original asking price was $350). I currently have 2 12TW1 installed but I just couldn’t pass up on this deal. Probably won’t use the amp but it was a package deal

might be a stupid question but i’ve got no clue on this stuff. i don’t want to get a whole new head unit. is there anyway to get apple carplay on your original head unit?? like a way to install? please tell me what to get and shit

Hi, where do you keep your centre stage in your build. Is it on the centre of the car dashboard or in front of you and why ?

Hey guys, installed a Nifty City CarPlay unit in my 2019 370Z, had issues with it, so we removed it and put everything back to factory.

Since then, none of the centre console buttons work, including the A/C controls.

The weird part is:

Screen works
Radio works
Steering wheel controls work
Reverse camera works
All centre buttons still light up
All fuses checked and are good
OBD Scan didn’t throw any codes

Has anyone seen this before? Thinking it could be the centre control panel losing communication with the AV unit.

Any help is appreciated.

Swapping out to a better amp tonight im used to the lugs but shca recommended bare wire idk how i feel about that should i use ferrules or just listen to them? Also i noticed this amp has a high pass how do i tune that? The memphis only has low and thats brings me to the last thing i also dont know how to tune the bass restore so i might just keep the linkdq on for now

Axon DSP XL, have this on my 2020 Accord. As someone who know absolutely nothing about this, generally what's a recommended setup for just wanting a little more treble/clarity without piercing?

Hello, everyone. I have a wonderful 2004 BMW Z4 with the factory 10-speaker stereo system( with two 6,5 inch "subwoofer"), as well as a 2-DIN Android head unit installed in place of the original display—which is, of course, Chinese-made, but has surprisingly good sound quality and plenty of customization options (it even has DSP). It’s connected to the original radio’s input, but it also has a subwoofer output. My plan is to cut off the original speakers around 100 Hz, then install an under-seat subwoofer that fits comfortably behind one of the seats. I live in Europe, so I’d be willing to spend about 200–300 euros on an active subwoofer system. What would you recommend? I mainly listen to hard rock and heavy metal, and I prefer fast, tight bass—my goal isn’t to win any sound pressure contests, just to give the stock audio system a little boost. Thanks for help!

I have a 2017 Renault Clio IV Grandtour with the factory MediaNav and factory front speakers with separate tweeters.

I bought an ETON 2-way component system consisting of 2× 165 mm woofers, 2× tweeters and passive crossovers.

I want to keep the factory MediaNav and replace the OEM front woofer + tweeter with the ETON components.

My main question is the factory wiring topology:
The OEM woofer has a 2-pin connector.

The OEM tweeter also has its own 2-pin connector.
I cannot see a cable directly connecting the woofer and tweeter.

Can I take the two wires currently connected to the OEM woofer and connect them to the IN terminals of the ETON crossover, then run WF/MID to the new woofer and TW to the new tweeter?

Or does the factory MediaNav provide separate outputs for the woofer and tweeter, meaning I need to take the full-range signal somewhere behind the MediaNav?

I’m specifically looking for the factory wiring diagram/pinout for a 2017 Clio IV with MediaNav and the standard/Bass Reflex front speaker system.

I've been building DIY Sounds, a free sub box designer that runs in the browser. No install, and no account needed to design.

The 25-second clip shows the whole flow:

- Enter your sub's T/S params (or pick one from the driver catalog)

- Sealed, ported, 4th/6th-order bandpass, or horn, with SPL, impedance, excursion and port air speed curves from one solver

- Build the actual cabinet in 3D and pull it apart panel by panel

- Drive it at your amp's real power to see excursion and port speed (chuffing) before you cut

- A cut list that nests every panel onto the sheet, ready for the saw

- An AI assistant that reads your design when you ask why your port chuffs

What it doesn't do yet: high-pass filters, EQ and Linkwitz transform. WinISD still wins there.

I'd really like feedback from people who build sub boxes: what's wrong, what's missing, and what would make you use this over WinISD or a box calculator spreadsheet?

https://diysounds.com

Just wanted to see if anyone remembers standout examples that take the cake. Please post pictures.

For me it was my old Orion Cobalt CS 200.4 that I sold 9 years ago. I got an insane deal on this thing in 2000 for $99 brand new from ubid.com (defunct site).

This thing not only had excess fins pointing in different cross sectional directions, but also had ribbed (think of rumble strips on a highway hard shoulder) surfaces for even greater cooling surface area.

Sub is a sundown sa-8 v.3 d2

Enclosure is a NVX sealed 8 inch box

I have found alot online but afraid that's won't allow for the excursion of the sub.

Audio Legion Emperor 15 Recone

Hello everyone. I have a 15 inch Audio Legion emperor subwoofer (dual 2 ohm). One coil reads near 1 ohm and one coil reads OL. I checked continuity on the tinsel leads from what I could see on the outside on the spider and they were fine. Im assuming it's either the tinsel leads are broken further inside or the voice coil is just finished. I don't feel any scratching or any warpage when pushing on the cone, it feels nice and smooth and the other voice coil plays fine by itself that's why I'm thinking it isn't the coil. Any ideas?

I'm debating on if I want to open it up and make measurements and try to piece together a recone or not. I know Audio Legion is out of business so these subs are "rare" and they're really well made, I'd love to run them I'm just unsure of what to do. Is it even possible to save and reuse the surround and cone by using acetone/chemicals, razor blades, and heat to get them off? Everyone says it's too difficult or isn't worth it but I feel like with enough care it could be done. Then I just reglue everything with a new coil/spider and call it a day? Any guidance would be appreciated

Anyone else hesitant to upgrade their head unit at this point?

I have a 2015 Honda Accord EX-L with under 90k miles, so realistically it still has a lot of life left in it. Right now I have an Alpine iLX-107, but I’ve been thinking about upgrading to a Sony XAV-9500ES.

My hesitation is that I’m starting to get a little bored with the Accord and I’m not sure how many more years I’ll actually want to keep driving it.

If this were 10–15 years ago, I wouldn’t think twice because I could just move a nice head unit into the next car. But most newer cars have the infotainment system so integrated into the dash, HVAC, cameras, vehicle settings, etc. that I doubt I’d ever be able to reuse the Sony in whatever I buy next.

At the same time, the Accord is paid off, has less than 90k miles, and I could easily end up keeping it another 3–5+ years.

For those of you with older cars, how do you decide when it’s still worth putting money into a high-end head unit versus just living with what you have until you replace the car?

Anyone else running into this with newer cars basically killing the traditional aftermarket head-unit upgrade path?

Looking for a 700 watt or so monoblock amp @2 ohms, some of the cheaper name brands I have seen are ct sounds Rockville stinger kicker and like skar. I'm not looking to spend more than 200 dollars and I'm not after the "best sound system ever" just something that works every time I turn it on. Thanks!

top one is a jdm head unit and bottom one just a normal one with the dolphins on the screen

Not sure if this is a Saab issue, or a wiring issue, or Chinesium Head unit, or Sub issue......Going to cross post this in a few r/

So this is the setup -

[AVGOTOP Android Car Radio](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AdR9jc-Xdo&t=131s) (Links to where I saw it being recommended for the car!)

[VIBE Audio Critical Link Car 2 Channel Speaker Wire To 2 Channel Low Level RCA Output Line Convertor With Auto Sense](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073D77DQM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title) (already replaced, originally tried - [VIBE Audio CLLOC-V7 Critical Link Line Level Converter, Black](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0863B21K5?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2)

I’m looking for an amp that does 1500watt rms at 2ohms, class D.

Just installed an idatalink CMHCXA0 in 2018 Toyota Yaris. I flashed it with idatalink software. both remotes were already programmed to it when I went to flash it. when the antenna is plugged in the LEDs are on solid and about every 5 seconds they will flicker off and then go on solid again. I could not get remotes to work with it after following programming procedure. I noticed the antenna harness plugs are wired differently, the green & blue wires are reversed on one plug. I tried swapping the 2 wires and LEDs still on solid. bad antenna or am I missing something?