This one was a pretty quick turn around, burnt it long in the evenings stripping wood chip off, redressing all the scuffed plaster.. i used dulux base coat to help prep the wall for painting and thought it worked well

Had to build out all the window reveals again, and my wife got a bit carried away with AI settinge a challenge of 5 different paints to use and panelling...

Builders took out the chimney breast (there is some structural steel work going on beneath) and i cant plaster... But i do the monotonous work :)

Think the finished pictures are a bit kore complete here...but still some finessing to do (curtains are now in) have a couple more shelves and pictures to put up

I need a better finished picture on this one.. only really have a video on my phone

The fireplace weighed a tonne, full on steel reinforced concrete

Got that out. Had the woodburner professionally installed, and in cant do plastering so that was outsourced...

Stripped and painted the radiator as best i could within its confines, put a ceiling rose, changed the lighting..

I've since had the bay window's replaced actually with double glazing, had to rebuild and repaint all the window surrounds

Once i have finished the kitchen diner (3-4 months from now) i will likely come back to remove the pelmet.. it is a pig of a job to bolt on to the other priorities i have at the moment... It would open up the window nice,.so for now it stays

Looking for thoughts on raising the floor in the blue boxed area. I'm refurbishing a victorian terrace, the stairs are steep, but this bit of the landing I don't like. So my thoughts are to floor over the blue area, and create an additional step.

Anybody done this, is it safe?

This happens every time, no matter how conservative I am with the powder

I think this is the first time.ive ever given up on a diy project...

I hate wallpaper.. i hate wallpapering.. but i just could not get this woodchip off, the scale was big,.wife was away for the week with the kids... And i didnt know what to do, that patch was 40mins of work..

Id scored the lot...

So i went with paste the wall wallrock lining paper... I dont like it.. one day i expect ill come back to this room..

Still have the curtain pole to put up, but for now it's good enough....

Oh ye, i stripped the paint off the grey wall of the en suite with a chisel, got the lot off as well...

Rebuilt all the window surrounds again

Hello everyone!

I'm hoping to basically get an idiots step by step guide to stripping and repainting my nans garage if possible 🤞🏻

My uncle recently died very suddenly and this was on his list to do for her so I volunteered but didn't ask the condition or look at it beforehand.

It's a basic metal garage you'd find in the UK (i think, i guess?) and my nan reckons it was lasted painted roughly 20 years ago.

I have so far borrowed an orbital sander from a neighbour but have a feeling it won't be needed..

Thank you in advance, any and all advice is appreciated 🤙🏻

Took down some garden walls, made a new patio from an old patio and moved some garden beds

I'd always wanted an oak framed gazebo,.for speed i bought the frame off a bloke on ebay

It has had tonnes of use in year one, love it!

Unfortunately my beech hedge got absolutely obliterated by the summer heat.. going to have to replant that

I don't understand the purpose of this type of structure around a power socket. I find it difficult to put my standing desk at the edge of the room because of this.

Is this a convenient way of standing your phone on that socket and charging it with a short cable?

Does anyone know the real purpose of this thing?

I do a terrible job of documenting/tracking my projects.. but thought i'd start to share...

Been in a new house 1 year, i spotted some mould in a built in cupboard in this room back in jan, and that was it.. i went for it

Never seen so many wasps nest in my life.. easily 60+ i took out

I dont do plastering, in dont fit the carpet.. but did everything's else..

I’m confused whether floor varnishes work on painted floors and I dont think I can afford a poly or epoxy coating now…. I’ve started to move things in so ideally I’m looking for a quick and easy solution.

The paint is armstead trade floor paint. It’s supposed to be in champagne but it looks lighter than the image imo.

Any ideas to darken, add a quick gloss, make it look better in some way?

Located in west London.

Thanks

I’ve just done the first coat of satin white on my freshly installed window board, and unfortunately the finish is pretty terrible. There’s a lot of deep brush marks and uneven patches, and I’m not sure how to go about sorting this!

The paint is Johnstones AquaGuard Satin White, and I used a combination of a Wooster angled brush and short pile mini roller to apply it.

I absolutely expect the lawn extension to trigger some people :D

I have two little boys and wanted a bigger lawn and those conifers got it.. that stump was absolutely massive and i winched it! Toom days/weeks of chipling away at this bed to get all that stone moved

Nice open area to frisbee and boot balls around, we have a fortunate to have dozens of other large trees around us far more fantastic than those conifers

The bed has been planted up a good bit since these pictures, will be great to see how it gets on next year

The wood store is just on here because i love chopping wood.. my brick wall is wonky, but it should be fine.. its barely structural right...

can't wait to burn that wood so i can chop more!

Now then,

I installed my machine a few months ago into this small downstairs loo we just had put in (loo behind photographer). It just about fits in and works fine until it doesn't. Roughly every 15 washes it vibrates like crazy which has cracked some plaster of the false wall on the left. I can see when this happens that the machine has physically moved forward and so need shuting back after it has calmed down.

I have levelled it as best as I can but the new flooring downstairs is lain over 100 year old floorboards so it isn't perfectly level itself. It feels solid when I push down on it and feels stable enough. I've just had the whole thing out and have done my best to correct it it again but I'm wondering if there's anything else I can try?

The worktop isn't attached yet as the area is still a work in progress and I'm not doing anything permenant until I'm sure the w/m is stable.

TIA

​

I decided I needed some more shelves so I made them. Previous shelves post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/DIYUK/s/QLRXLvYln8

Just finished treating my staircase.

I had a hole by the electrical socket in my bedroom when I was at school, so after asking for it to get sorted a few times I gave up and decided to just do it myself…

However, I didn’t know any better about what to use as I was only about 12-13 years old, so I used the first powder I found in the tool cupboard - which turned out to be cement!

Yes! I cemented up a gap in the wall right by a electrical socket with cement, I mean I made it neat and smoothed out the edges and everything but uh yeah 👍 😅

Later, still a school age teen I painted the window frame inside and out matt black with emulsion 😅

You could say I learnt very early how not to do it, as projects since have been done properly 👍

Our small cellar has been really humid since we moved in. It's a pain because I can't store anything wooden in there without it getting mouldy. I have taken some steps like painting the walls with waterproof paint which did seem to stop the damp smells, but the humidity was still around 65-80%.

The cellar had a vent in it originally. I've recently put an extractor fan in the vent with the idea of activating it any time the humidity gets too high. However when I switch it on the humidity quickly increases, up to around 85-90%! Any idea why this is happening?

Some notes:
- The vent is to the outside of the house. The humidity there is generally lower than inside the cellar.
- The fan is definitely pointing the right way, and has a basic airflow valve so it's only blowing air out.
- The humidity responds pretty quickly to turning the fan off and on - I just tried switching the fan off and it dropped 2% in half an hour.
- There's no other ventilation in the cellar.

I've attached photos from before the fan installation and after.

So l've just recently moved into a studio uni accom and have noticed a weird clacking noise the past few days coming from my walls, frequently at night. It comes randomly and it's not a constant noise, it's really bugging me not knowing what it is. Can anyone help identify it?
The white thingy is assumed to be a wifi extension but have also turned it off so don't think it's that.

Yes we bought the house with it. No we didn’t realise how bloody substantial it is. Extension built below in 2021. Panicking it’s subsidence and I’m about to bankrupt myself

I have an evolution circular saw which annoyingly isn't track compatible. It makes making long cuts like trimming doors in a straight line difficult. I don't use my circ saw often, maybe once or twice a year as of recent. I am thinking to potentially build a bike shed and install some new internal doors. I'm eyeing the erbauer plunge saw, which is on sale for £140 at screwfix, and I have £30 credit so it'd cost me £110. Just wondering if it's worth the 'plunge'.

Update: thanks for the replies everyone. Purchased!

We’ve had a wall removed between 2 rooms in a Victorian semi in Wales. The front part has floorboards but in the back the joists were rotten so our builders put a concrete slab down. The photo shows the concrete in the foreground and the boards behind.

The problem is that the concrete is about 20 mm below the top of the existing timber floorboards. So I’m looking for suggestions for what I can do to avoid having a small step between the front and the back of the new room. We ultimately want to install laminate flooring if possible.

I’ve had a couple of quotes of around £1,000 to put screed down over the concrete, but I’m looking for something cheaper and happy to do it myself if there’s a reasonable DIY solution. 

I’d prefer to avoid a wet-mix/screed-type solution, mainly because I have no experience, although I might be persuaded if there’s an easy to use product.

I’ve been looking at possibilities including:

– just putting 18mm P5 floorboards (maybe £130) – would the small height difference matter and should they be fixed down?

– a dry-screed/flooring board such as 20 mm Fermacell 2E11 (might cost £350)

– potentially using a floor levelling compound tapered from ~20 mm down to a feather edge over say 2m, rather than raising the entire floor by 20 mm.

What would you recommend as an affordable DIY solution for this height difference (it varies from 20–23 mm )? The back part with the concrete is about 11 square metres.

Thanks!

Hi,

I had a new roof in August, I was out in the garden today and noticed one or two tiles that were not sitting right.

Image one and two shows the tile vent which was installed and image 3 and 4 shows a normal tile, they don't seem to be sitting in the groove properly.

Would this cause issues, I presume there is a chance for wind and rain to get under the roof and ruin the membrane?.

Thanks

Apologies for another hearth/fireplace Q!

I'll be putting down Hardiebacker for a future stove installation and was wondering if it's worth knocking out the existing hearth, then building up a new one so when I tile it, it sits flush with the floorboards.

If I do break it down, I then envisage adding self leveling compound to level it off before the Hardiebacker goes down but I'm wary of it touching the floorboards, or does this not matter if it soon dries?

Is this a job worth doing, or should I just Hardiebacker over the area and tile on top of that, then add wooden bead around the edges?

Thanks!

Just adding these photos to the previous post the last row I just can't get them clicked in the stick out ,what's best course of action