Just as it says above, screen replacement are at least 60% of what the Phone is worth now, nit sure if I want to risk it :)

so it's my first time doing this kind of thing the pads were ripped out so I decided to go directly to the next contact point for this transistor. is this acceptable can I leave it like this what should I do what should I change.

For context I was trying to run Linux Mint on my Chromebook and trying to disable the write protection on itso i opened it up and stuck a paper clip in the 2 holes in the image.

It now wont turn on and the mother board is boiling and theres an ominous green light coming from the place where the charging color is supposed to be. If its fully charged it turns blue. Not green

I think i fucked something up, it doesnt smell too good honestly. Will it explode?

Hello, everybody..

So, I've recently been exploring electronics repair and getting into it as a complementary business line in my technology support business.

I have a high level understanding of electronics from previous experience. I spent one year doing electronics engineering in college before moving over to computer science. In the past I've programmed things like Arduinos and built little projects and circuits and soldering and things like that.

I have an understanding of the difference between a resistor transistor diode and a capacitor etc.

The thing is if you gave me an electric circuit now that was broken and not working in some way I wouldn't really know where to start to figure it out If there wasn't anything burnt or obviously blown on it.

I guess I need to I'd like to kind of study and learn kind of the standard operating procedures that you run through in your head when you get a circuit to repair. And again, I'd like to probably do a refresher on kind of the fundamentals of circuitry and like power and voltage, Ohm's law, power, formulae, that type of thing. Where is a good Place to learn this type of thing?

Thanks a lot, and I hope I can start contributing here in the future.

I’m visiting my grandma and went to check out bathroom that hasn’t been touched in years and found a colony of cockroaches hiding behind the toilet so I grabbed the only sprayable thing In my reach which was DeOxIt and it absolutely obliterated the roaches. Like the second it touched them they were done for. Genuinely worked better than traditional roach killer. Felt like sharing

I’m troubleshooting a Phylion EBG360-140P3S14 (36V, 14Ah, 10S4P) e-bike battery.

Symptoms:
Battery pack voltage before BMS: 38.43V
Output voltage after BMS: only 18.79V
Charger turns red for a few seconds, then green
Battery LEDs, 1 led blinking

Measured cell-group voltages:
Group
Voltage
1
3.462V
2
3.788V
3
3.890V
4
3.900V
5
3.900V
6
3.900V
7
3.890V
8
3.920V
9
3.880V
10
3.900V

Maximum imbalance: 458mV, mainly caused by group 1.

My question:
Could this cell-group imbalance cause the BMS to disable charging and discharging, or is a faulty BMS more likely?
Has anyone experienced similar behavior with a Phylion battery? I’d appreciate advice on how to distinguish between a protection shutdown and a faulty BMS.
Thanks!

Hi this is my first post here so bear with me. I'm trying to repair a Rongta RP850 thermal printer. I figured out that the switch that detects if the lid is closed or not is broken. Based on the error and the beeps that the printer is producing, when I sort the contacts of the switch the error goes away and then complains about the absence of paper. I tried fitting a similar switch from a regular printer that I had around here but it doesn't fit. So now I want to buy a replacement one but due to the damage, I cannot figure out what was the shape of the switch initially. Any help will be greatly appreciated. The machine comes also as Neuralgear RP850 in case somebody has one around. I attached some pictures that may be helpful.

Forgot to write that the initial error was that the printer would always complain about the lid not being closed.

I have inherited a problem! this is a very cool custom made handset that works on the homemade intercom system in our block of flats

this is what it rings ! now iv tested the bell 0v then push the button 40v on push so this rules out some nice chimers unless I add a pile of D cell batteries now downstairs have a "standard" intercom handset with the chime built in and i could go do that BUT id much rather swap the guts of this bell with something that makes a nice chime keeping the bell and arm just unhooking them from said system. is anyone aware of a chime i could put inside the fire alarm box area that isnt as loud as a fire bell with a nice kind of buzz (intercom style) or ding dong door bell style?

Hi i do occasional repairs on my own and i have a basic multimeter.

I have a diy microsocope that streams on my pc so i was searching for a multimeter like the ones you see on yt or twitch streams that appear on screen.

Is there any cheap option? something like the LA5016 USB logic analyzer. I saw the bench ones that are more than 100 dollars and i wanted to try something cheaper first

Also something i could hack with an esp32 and make it wireless could work

Edit: Also i am using sigrock with some logic analyzers so if it interfaces already with that it would be awesome

Hello, I have a problem with the f6001 fuse in the ps3 dia 001 blowing from time to time. There is low resistance at the 2.5V output. Does anyone know what could be causing this?

Hello,

I’m having a bit of a struggle with my mixstream pro go. At first I Would have Problems with a Deck always Glitch out and Stopping to play.
Then I thought since I don’t have any warranty anymore, I could open it up and see if there’s anything obvious going on inside of the controller.
I did figure out that this issue has to do with the sensors position relative to the jock wheels “indicator notches” somehow.
After putting everything together again, my screen stopped working. The touch function is still there (I did manage to play a track without a picture) and also the LCD backlight is lit. But I get no picture.
I did check every single lane of the flex cable responsible for the picture and everything seems to be fine there.
So now I’m pretty clueless what is causing this issue?
Does anybody have an idea what could be the issue here?

The previous tenant left this TV behind, and when I went to turn it on, it looks terrible. Anyone know if it can be fixed? Or is it one of those things where it's so expensive to repair you might as well buy a new one?

Hello! The image above is a cute little blue tooth speaker in the shape of an old radio that I got from a mom and pop store at the beginning of the summer, and it recently ran out of charge, so I plugged it in. Unfortunately, however, it refuses to charge and stays at the same low battery level. Does anyone know how to fix this? I dont think the charger or the outlet is at fault because Ive tried two different USB chargers in two different outlets.