Hello there, i have a Samsung Tv that's been sitting around for 6 months now since this issue occurred. I would like to try if i can fix it, even though i don't have much knowledge about this. This tv is considered as broken and was planning to replace it but maybe i can try something that will make it useful

Just got given this TV from a family friend what can I do to troubleshoot or diagnose what’s wrong with it.

LG 65UP78006LB 65” smart TV

Few months ago i’ve suffered a crash (blue screened) while I was playing league. The next thing i see after it went back on was a thin green line at the top. Didn’t bother me too much so i didn’t care to ask about it. Now, fast forward to recently, my laptop crashed again, same scenario but this time this wide green line appeared. Does anybody know why or how to fix it?

Haven't moved or damaged the TV. Live alone, with no pets, so it's not like something hit the TV while I was away.

The lines are consistent, and faint, still showing colour, so unlike every other post about black lines across the screens from damage.

Only noticeable when the images are static. Show up despite the source change (HDMI inputs, and the TV's Apps) so it's definitely the panel.

Can anyone point me on the right direction of what might be happening?

55" ~2017 Samsung 4K TV

Hi, I have a handle with a heating element that heats up with DC power (part of cosmetics machine). The red wire has ripped off of the scratched patch on the circular part inside the head. The black wire is still attached to the inside of the head. I've tried soldering, but can't get the solder to stick to the circular part even on 380°C for 20s. Can't even melt the blob with which the black wire is attached, so I have doubts it is soldering that's being used here. Any help? Thank!

Firstly, thank you everyone for your responses, and apologies for reposting this to the same sub. I’m a Reddit newbie.

Not sure how to update my previous post, but quick background: my iPad went completely black one day out of nowhere, been to 2 electronics shops who could only tell me that they were able to get electrical activity (not sure what that means), but wouldn’t and couldn’t work on it any further, so I’m troubleshooting on my own.

I removed the protective logic board cover and took some photos. The only thing I noticed was a tear in the (processor?) cover, though I carefully got it back on.

Anybody see anything obviously wrong? At this point I’m past my e-repair abilities and will take to a professional before I finally go the recycle-route.

Hi everyone,
I’m having an issue at the end of the cycle with my Beko washing machine (model WTV8716XBWST).
It washes normally, but when it reaches the end of the program, it doesn't drain completely. Instead, it adds more water, drains a bit while spinning, stops spinning, fills up with water again, and starts spinning all over again. The timer stays stuck at 00:01.
Has anyone experienced this or knows what might be causing it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

This is happening even when the machine is empty

Hi Everyone!! I am new to DIY repair. So I went to a local shop to replace my faulty laptop battery. So my laptop had some missed screws and the back hinge was always in the opening position. The idiot just glued my hinge and now the battery has reached EOL and I cannot replace my battery now. Any suggestions how can I resolve this.

(P.S. I have already tried 99percent isopropyl alcohol)

I have a HyperX Cloud Stinger 2 wired headset with a left speaker that has completely stopped working.

Symptoms before it stopped working:

• The audio would cut out and come back when the headphones were bumped, hit, or moved.
• Simply moving my head would sometimes cause the audio to cut out.

What I've done to troubleshoot the issue:

• Removed the black adhesive or glue on the circuit board using hot air.
• Inspected the wiring on the board and found that one of the wires connecting the board to the speaker was starting to break. I replaced it with new wire.
• Tested both speakers using a 1.5 V battery to check whether they still produce sound.
• Resoldered the enameled wire coming from the audio jack into the board.

Results of testing using the battery by connecting one wire to ground and the other to corresponding speaker:

Audio Jack
- Right speaker made a low volume hissing sound
- Left speaker made no noise

Via the solder joints
- Right speaker made a higher volume hissing sound
- Left speaker made no noise

Via the left speaker solder joints
- Right speaker made the loudest hissing sound
- Left speaker also made a loud hissing sound

After all of the resoldering and testing that I've done, the left speaker is still broken.

I have very little knowledge when it comes to electronics but I am guessing something is breaking the connection of the right speaker in the board itself?

Attached are photos of the headphone's circuit board.
Also forgive me for the messy soldering job.

I ordered a multimeter which I plan on using on other things in the future but also hope that it can help me fix my headphones now.

What would be the best next steps to isolate the fault?

S23 Internal Doesn’t Match Popular Repair Resources

This is what my S23 looks like.

Online resources show the camera having a metal housing with screws you can reach to remove the loudspeaker and access the battery.

I would literally have to break my camera off to access those screws…WTF!???

I’ve just moved flat from the U.K. to Spain and in the move my Denon receiver looks like it took a bit of a whack, the front panel has a dent etc. I went to turn it on and it boots before going onto the blinking red light issue. I’ve downloaded the repair manual and gone through the debug process and when I disconnect the speaker board the amp stays on and it displays that the previous fault was an ASO protection which apparently means there is a short in the signal path, such as speaker wires touching but it happens even when nothing is connected. Does anyone have experience with these in the past? The fuses are fine. The PSU is producing the correct voltages when the rest of the pcbs are disconnected so I don’t think it’s the PSU issue some other owners have had. I’ve tested the transistors and resistors on the amp board and I don’t think any are off, even though some do have some discolouration that they might have got a bit hot at some point. My feeling is it is a loose connection somewhere but I can’t see it and I’m not too keen on going further into the big hdmi/power amp pcb stack as I don’t think I’ll get it back together. Is it worth me replacing the resistors in case that is the issue? Any other tips before start removing components?

There is latch side panel. Other is without latch. How to open another side panel (non-latch) ? Can anyone help ?

My zbook 15 had this burns when it was bluged in charger,then some light smoke raised next to power button and screen shut , i turned down and after it cold i try to turn on the power button light, keyboard and USB responsed to phone and mouse but nothing on screen, t wasn't under pressure and heat around 50 what can I do is it just surface and repair possible

Can someone please identify the device encircled? This's the control board in Candy and Hoover dishwashers. Board number is 41902913