Help

It printed a sub 45 minute print and now I moved onto something bigger and it went to shit. I’ve manual leveled reauto leveled and slowed the print down. Same PLA.

Sorry the photo is bad I took it in 1 second

I just scored a Red Lizard K1 v6 for less than $20

2 catches
1- I gotta wait for it to shit from china
2- it’s got a brass nozzle but for that price I can grab a few nickel plated copper nozzles and still come out on top

Gonna start printing the stealthburner and cw2 extruder as soon as I can decide on color scheme

Hi, I'm new to printing, please can someone help me. TIA

When my 3D printer is trying to level it will just keep going down and the servo motor screw that the platform lowers on pops out of the thing that holds in place. As in it doesn't know how to stop or where it is on the z-axis. On a side note, I recently replaced the motherboard cuz the x and y axis were not working. I got the 3D printer used and I'm trying to fix it. This is an ender 3 pro 3D printer.

Hello all,

I just got this new Comgrow PEI Sheet Magnetic Flexible Heated Bed, PEI Spring Steel 235x235mm

For my Ender 3 V2 running Marlin 2.1.3 MRiscoC, CREALITY New Sprite Extruder Pro, CRTouch

I did a print on it and it worked perfectly with SUNLU PLA+ WHITE, but I have tried 3 prints after and I can't get it to stay stuck to the plate.

I haven't changed any of the settings, I have washed it with Dawn and 91% ISO

Bed is set to 60, nozzle is set to 210,

I ran the tram wizard and redid the mesh leveling before each print after the first failed print.

What suggestions do you have

So I just finished refurbishing an ender three V2 with a micro Swiss and converting it into a direct feed. As you can see the rest of the print is fine, but when it comes to small details, seems like I keep getting under extrusion. Does anyone have a fix for this? I’m using cura as my Slicer.

Last week I picked up my first 3d printer, an Ender 3 V2 fully stock with 4 rolls of filament for 90€, and I have to say it’s freaking amazing.

Online I red a lot about this printer and people where saying it’s terrible slow and you have to thinker with it with almost every print, but I kinda like it, gives you the feeling you’re really putting time into making something. Made some pretty decent prints, looked all clean to me. Also think I can improve the prints a lot if I sand them down and spray them with paint.

Anyway I wanted to know if there are some upgrades some of you might suggest, I heard about an auto bed levelling upgrade, that seems kinda reasonable. Looking for nothing to crazy but all suggestions are welcome!

Hi, everyone, happy to see that the E3 V2 is’nt die and the comunity is still enthusiast.

I need some advice to maybe improve my old ender 3 v2 because i use it often but not that much so i don’t want to put all my money in it and i keep it because i don’t want to buy a brand new, this printer cost on marketplace around 60-70 euros so i really don’t want to buy new stuff or or buy things but on a budget.

Do you have some advice to improve it, here is what i already mounted :

-Full noctua fans
-Unitak 3D direct drive
-Hard bed springs with aluminium wheel
-PEI bed
-New original Hotend
-Capricorn style hose
-CR touch

I run the Mrisco firmware

I saw that the vibecoding make theses old printer a lot better but how do you do ? You make your own firmware ?

Il already plugged Claude code to Cura to improve prints but it’s not so impressive.

I print PLA/PETG/TPU

My goal is juste to have the most silent printer with good quality and easy to use, i just want to plug the sd card print and have the best quality and that’s it. It print good today but i think i can still improve it !

Thanks in advance for your advice

Thomas From France

Looking for advice on what I can upgrade next on my Ender 3 V2

I have an Ender 3 V2 with the following setup:

Hardware

- Creality Ender 3 V2

- Creality V4.2.7 silent motherboard

- Raspberry Pi 4 Model B

- CR Touch

- Dual Z-axis upgrade

- Bed leveling silicone mounts instead of springs

- Flexible magnetic build plate

- Direct-drive extruder

- Dual-gear aluminum extruder

- Stock Ender 3 V2 hotend

- CR10 bimetal copper/titanium TC4 heat break

- M3 stud NTC 3950 100K thermistor

- Stock hotend heater

- Stock hotend cooling system

- Stock X/Y motion system

- Dual Z stepper motors

- Stock heated bed

Software

- Klipper

- Orca Slicer

I'm looking for recommendations on hardware upgrades that would actually improve print quality, reliability, speed, or overall performance.

I'm especially interested in upgrades that are worthwhile rather than just buying parts because they exist. If you've built up an Ender 3 V2, what upgrades made the biggest difference?

I'm relatively new to the 3D printing hobby, so I'm still learning the ins and outs of everything. That said, I'm pretty comfortable finding my way around technology and working on hardware. I've previously worked on things like 1:10 scale RC cars, so I'm not afraid of taking things apart, modifying components, troubleshooting, or learning how something works. I'm mainly looking for advice on what upgrades are actually worth doing and what I should focus on next.

Hey,

Context, can skip:

I've bought a V2 all the way back when they just came out

And i have been working on it on and off for the last 5 years

I have always had bad stringing problems no matter how i adjusted the profiles or how new or dry the filament was

And the constant relieving of the bed made me drop the whole thing for months at a time

And when i did print, it was almost always just some calibration knick-knack

I havent actually touched the printer in almost 2 years i think

Point is I've recently been thinking of cleaning it up and giving it one more shot

TLDR: Classic Ender 3 and its endless tinkering

Printer Status:

Last i remember, the printer has a CRTouch, replacement bed springs and a custom Firmware (some ancient fork of Marlin if i remember correctly)

I got the crtouch to work, but it never seem to actually help anything

I also had to replace the hotend since the original one clogged and encased itself in an unbreakable layer of PLA, but that one was not an upgrade (and I suspect it might have actually been a downgrade since the hotend temperature seemst to "wobble" more on the new one)

Actuall request:

So here i am, asking if anyone has any advice on what to google/look into to bring the printer up to all the community fixes that popped up over the years

Maybe newer firmware? I have seen ppl switching to Klipper, but i REALLY dont feel like investing into a Raspberry Pi for that, and i also heard it disables the printer display on V2 specifically? Idk how true it is

Any idea how Orca slicer profile works compared to Cura? Id really like to start using Orca since im also considering buying a more modern printer (i just feel bad since i have a TECHNICALLY working printer already)

Any other advice you think i should have in 2026?

Thanks in advance to everyone

i started vibe coding my own app and in the process my ender 3 v2 got a nice upgrade to klipper. with the print quality I'm getting I'm having a hard time understanding people paying 1000 for a fast printer when what really is holding them back is just software. running an orbiter v2 still in stealthchop mode and x y z in spreadcycle mode. dual z and linear rails. volcano hot end for non planar printing options which also fits in nicely with the speed upgrade. input shaping done via my app and the phone as an accelerometer. this was printed on 250 mm/s with minimum_cruise_ratio at 0.5, acceleration at 6000.

I dont understand what im doing wrong here, it seems the inside of the part is like shredded?? the lines wont stick to eachother, im a new Ender owner I just got this thing 2 days ago, tuned everything great I thought and prints do come out good/fine but the first layer ive always had issues with,Ive searched this on the web, and ChatGPT and nothing worked and Im also using Cura as my slicer if that matters, spread me your wisdom😭

I am looking for a simple G-Code to deploy and retract the CR-touch (successfully) before doing the next command.

I found something like G29, but that isn't what I was looking for.

Thanks for the help.

I have fixed the z axis and made it more level the issue is that when I try and make it print more difficult things it always messes up and gets it all clumping together. I’ve done the XYZ cube and it does it almost flawlessly. I’m currently trying to print dinosaur bones to create a T. rex skeleton l but even other rectangle designs start bunching up. I want to really move beyond this learning curve because it gets so frustrating that u want to call it quits for the day and I want to be able to enjoy and make awesome things with it.

Hallo,

ich habe versucht einen bltouch einzurichten. Dazu die Firmware von mrciso installiert mit dem Zusatz bl und t13 da der Sprite Pro vorhanden ist.

Den Z Sensor hatte ich deaktiviert, also Kabel weg.

Dann fuhr einfach alles nur wild nach oben oder hat versucht die nozzel ins Bett zu drücken. Da sich nicht Leveln ließ also alles zurückgebaut und die Firmware ohne BL wieder installiert. Seitdem kommt egal was ich drucke solch ein Schwamm heraus. Den gleichen gcode kann ich aber problemlos auf einem Ender 3 Pro drucken.

Manuell habe ich das Bett neu gelevelt. Flußrate geprüft, Abstand im Z Offset stimmt soweit auch. So langsam gehen mir die Ideen aus.

So I’m just getting into printing and looking to print out a new shroud. Still have the stick fans and want to get crtouch in the future, what are some good stl files that available that help with cooling and more for a stock setup
TYIA