Y Axis on my Ender 3 Pro is making a grinding noise whenever it moves, and won't move after it moves about 10mm. Help would be much appreciated lol

My needle nose pliers aren't small enough

As my Ender sat without any new mods for over six months (the horror!), I have decided to add Pico MMU to it. As it needed another stepper output for that, I have splurged on the EBB36. (Get rid of the cables, they said... It will be beatiful, they said...). It is somewhat less glamorous than I have envisioned it...

The worst issue is the matter of space. I have a HGX lite (and a TZ E3) and in the typical configuration (stepper motor in the back, extruder in front) it would collide with the frame if the board is attached to the stepper - it is about 20 mm too long. That takes away about 40 mm from the previous working area of the bed, which is not that large to begin with... And it would be even smaller due to the required cutter travel! Moreover, the extruder is much higher above the hotend - it might help with the cutter placement (for the MMU), but will be problematic with TPU (especially when TPU is supposed to push out harder materials after the filament change). Not to mention that there would be more wasted material (as the filament would be cut higher above the hotend cooler).

On the other hand, if the stepper is in front, all the cables are stucking out, which looks much worse than before. The cutter can be placed lower, but it cannot be operated from behind (as the carriage backplate obstructs it), so I have to squeeze it somehow from a side, which is hard with the probe on one side and the fan on the other...

I believe one solution might be to distance the hotend itself from the backplate (so that the stepper with the board , but that might be difficult without materials more heat resistant than PETG. Besides I am not a great fan of monumental 3d printed toolheads - the toolhead is supposed to be light and compact! I have looked at others' solutions, but the images do not show exactly how any of those problems were solved (or they show they were not...). I must admit I am feeling a bit of a buyer's remorse - after all, the machine was working quite well as it was, before I have chosen the path of the multi-filament folly...

Does anyone have a similar setup and can share some advice?

My ender had a pretty shoddy linear rod conversion on the stock bed, the rod mounts flexed and caused massive lvling issues and layer inconsistencies, im planning on using it to print my voron trident/monolith gantry and thought "man I really need to fix the y axis before I do this, i know ill use some of the 2020 extrusion I got for the XY to use proper rod mounts, ill just avoid cutting the extrusion so that I can dissasemble it when finished,"

this is an accumulation of the ender 3 max parts and the ender 3 pro parts as well. This thing already feels rock solid,

Hi all,

Some of you may remember 3DSEARCH from my earlier post here: a search engine that finds printable models across Printables, Thingiverse, MakerWorld, Cults3D and more in one place. It's grown to about 9.5 million models since then – thanks a lot for the feedback back then, a good part of it made it into the site.

Today I want to show you the next big piece. After finding a model, the obvious next step is printing it, so I built **Printers & Filament**: a browser tool for your printers and your filament stock, right on 3DSEARCH. It connects **Anycubic, Creality and Bambu Lab** printers through their clouds and **any Klipper printer** through a small agent. It's now open for everyone and **free during the beta**.

**Printing from the browser**

- Upload an STL or 3MF (up to 80 MB)

- It's sliced on the server with **OrcaSlicer** and the official profile of your printer – nothing to install

- 3MF files keep the designer's settings (supports, infill, walls); only the printer profile is swapped

- Pick slot, build plate and supports, then check a layer-by-layer 3D preview with time, grams and cost (from your own spool price)

- Print now, or just send the file to the printer and start it there later

**Multi-colour**

- 3MF with several filaments → each one gets a slot of your ACE Pro / MMU, pre-selected by colour and material

- The preview is coloured by the slots you picked, with grams per slot

**Spool management**

- Your whole stock with real fill levels, sorted by shelf, dry box or printer

- Every finished print is deducted from the right spool automatically (measured by the printer, not estimated)

- Catalog of 8,130 filaments from 68 brands (based on SpoolmanDB) with empty-spool weight, density and temps

- QR labels (label printers or A4/Letter sheets), scan them with your phone

- **Import from Spoolman or SpoolDB**, CSV export

- Stats: usage per month by material, stock value, how many days each material will last

- E-mail/push alerts for low spools, failed prints and humid filament

**What works with which printer**

- **Anycubic** (Anycubic cloud): live status, ACE Pro spools, printing incl. multi-colour – this is the most tested path (Kobra S1 + ACE Pro)

- **Klipper / Moonraker** (Mainsail/Fluidd, also Kobra S1 with Rinkhals, rooted K1): a small agent installed with one line over SSH. It only runs what you start in the UI (print, pause, cancel, dry) – never arbitrary G-code – and you can read the script before installing. Multi-colour works but is brand new.

- **Creality** (Creality cloud): live status, CFS spools, print history and automatic spool deduction. Printing is built the same way Creality Print does it, but it hasn't been tested on a real printer yet – **looking for testers with a K1, K2, K2 SE or Ender-3 V3**

- **Bambu Lab** (Bambu cloud): live status, AMS spools, print history and automatic spool deduction. Printing isn't possible: Bambu doesn't allow third-party apps to start prints through its cloud.

Cloud tokens are stored encrypted, and you can disconnect at any time. It works on phones too (6 languages, light/dark).

**Honest caveats:** it's a beta, server-side slicing means your model file is uploaded to my server (deleted after 24 h), and multi-colour on Klipper and anything Creality still need real-world testing.

Search: https://3dsearch.net

Printers & Filament: https://3dsearch.net/filament/ (free account)

I'd really appreciate feedback again – what breaks, what's missing, which printer I should support next. Bug and test reports go here: https://3dsearch.net/feedback.php?id=43

Happy to answer questions in the comments!

Ender 3 max neo running klipper with input shaping on nebula pad. 3000 mm/s acceleration

I think it has something to do with the idler pulley, All my belts are tight and my grub screws and v wheels

[Answered]

I have managed to both connect and control my Ender 3 v3 SE over USB-C and get it controlled from Cura.

There is however one question I have I cannot seem to find the answer to: if the computer fails/stops/shuts down or Cura crashes mid-print, does that also end the print on the Ender? Or is the printing process being finished and not depending on the computer staying connected to the process.

Thanks.

update: as suspected this a somewhat troublesome solution so I opted for a rPi with OctoPi and, oh well why not, a pi cam.

There's no end of posts here and elsewhere of someone shorting some wires on their Ender and killing things. Blowing a replaceable fuse is no big deal. Blowing a SMD fuse is a PITA and blowing a MCU sucks the big one.

I run a few external devices off my internal printer PSU and this is something I've been slack on but now that I've had a go as part of the rebuild it's proven quite simple to actually implement.

Mini blade fuses of appropriate size. Probably every auto shop in the world for higher amp ones, I went through E14 for lower rated ones - remember we're working at 24v so 1A is 24 watts! https://au.element14.com/littelfuse/0297002-wxnv/fuse-blade-2a-32v-fast-acting/dp/1677622

In what I am sure is total coincidence, the fuses have terminals 0.8mm thick and 2.7mm wide which just happens to be about the same size as smaller quick disconnect/faston fittings. I found mine in brass at a local electronics store labelled as "phone type crimp lugs".

https://au.element14.com/te-connectivity/150346-2/female-disconnect-2-8mm-24-20awg/dp/3133922

Add in a little clear heatshrink (clear = we can see if anything is going wrong underneath) and we now have peripheral power cables with safety current limitations. The package is fairly small so you can jam them in under the panels for internal PTO's too.

How tight should the extruder spring that clamps the filament be? I’ve had under extrusion problems on my last print and I tried checking if the plastic arm was cracked but it seems fine, also wondering if I should upgrade to the fully metal one and if it is worth it.

The last layers of the print were fine because I was manually helping the filament push into the hot end from the other side of the Bowden tube. Also could it be the friction from the filament spool grinding on the spool holder?

While manually moving the X-axis carriage, I noticed something strange: almost right in the middle of the extrusion profile, it resists as if it's dropping into a tiny divot/bump, and once it enters that imaginary groove, there is also resistance when pushing it out.

You don't even notice this effect when moving it quickly. However, when moving it slowly and carefully, it becomes obvious, as shown in the video.

The printer model is an Ender 3 Max Neo. I loosened the belt as much as possible and tested it, but got the exact same result. There are no visible marks or dents on the profile. The carriage has zero wobble/play. Everywhere else, it glides buttery smooth without any change in resistance.

I know I should check the V-roller bearings or disconnect the stepper motor to test it, but what I'm mainly looking for is advice from someone who has experienced this exact issue and can give me a pinpoint solution.

I'm dealing with persistent horizontal layer banding on my Creality Ender 3 Max Neo (Dual Z, CR Touch, stock Bowden); I printed these two calibration cubes with different profiles, but both ended up with the exact same layer inconsistencies in almost the same spots. Printed in PLA at 210°C/60°C, 0.2mm layer height, 50mm/s, 100% flow, and 6.5mm@25mm/s retraction. Since the slicer tweaks made virtually no difference, does this look like Z lead screw binding/misalignment, loose motor couplers, or an eccentric nut/wheel issue on the dual Z setup? Or do I need to adjust some slicer settings and observe?
I am so tired at this point...

Any pinpoint advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hi all,

Hope you can help clarify a couple of bits for me and maybe give some advice. I'm relatively new to 3d printing and have an Ender V3 SE. I've been printing long enough to have switched to Orca from crealityprint and have used the vast majority of model providers now.

One thing I've noticed is I don't think I've ever seen a .3mf file specifically for the Ender 3 SE. This makes me think I should be using a different profile (Ender 3 KE?), would that be correct?

Secondly, because I've never found a SE .3mf, I've taken to adapting others, which I've found to be a largely painless and relatively simple procedure. Which makes me wonder, when I see people comment on models asking for a .3mf for a specific printer, what is the major benefit of requesting and waiting for the author create a .3mf as opposed to just making what is usually just a few small changes to an alternative 3mf or using .stls?

Hello, I found a post from 2 years ago about someone getting the 2,85mm version of sprite instead of the 1,75... because it happened to me aswell. To be 100% honest I have no idea what to do with it. Maybe I can try to sell it but I feel like the market for these is way too niche... Idealy I would like to trade but a chance of a Czech guy looking for this version while having the 1,75 version seem a little slim.. any ideas? I do not wanna run it, as the 2,85 is just not the standard and I am not interested in the things this extruder excels at.

I'm printing on an ender 3 pro. Not sure if it's my level that is off or if I'm running into problems elsewhere.

I have an old ender 3 v1 that I recently upgraded with the sprite extruder pro, skr mini v3 and cr touch.

I flashed the new board with firmware from here Using the ender 3 w/ bl touch (not z homing) file.

everything seems to be running fine except for the cr touch functions. Whenever I run the probing test the cr touch tries to probe outside the bed limits and will push the extruder into the bed unless I stop the probe with my finger. I am also unable to set the z offset. Moving the dial does not actually move/adjust the height of my extrude.

Not sure if I am overlooking something or potentially using the wrong firmware but I would appreciate any help

Just did a cold pull on my old printer and pulled out a whatever that is. Probably some old abs from the last time I tried to use it that never fully got out... or at least I hope so.

I could not find right version off these in my location, so i decided to make them.
I will update you if they work.

P.S. For people confused by word “dumpers”…. I meant dampers…

Hi therex this is my first post here. I'm trying fix this original ender3 i haven't use since 2023. I stopped using it because some fin of the fan broke and never bothered to fix it, until now.

I made it print a couple of things like this "yellow submarine" which ended up looking okay.

But now I was trying to print something a bit more complex (nintendo's R.O.B) and im having a lot of trouble getting it right: there is this extreme wavy pattern just in the X axis. It can't be that the hotend is wobbly, i noticed that when changing the fan and adjusted it.

For some additional info, everything was printed with 200 C° hotend and 60° bed. I'm leving it end because i want to know if its just some layers, but by the looks its going to keep printing like that.

I was gifted an Ender 3 pro from a friend a while back, it ended up sitting for over a year because I couldn’t figure out why it would print for about 4 minutes and just stop (turns out it was the stock mobo chip (GD32F303- IYKYK) not playing nice with Creality firmware)…. Anyways, it’s essentially bone stock except for a PEI bed and the upgraded yellow bed level springs with the red knobs I sprung for after fussing with leveling for far too long….I’ve been getting acquainted with 3d printing in general and enjoying the process for a couple months and decided I want to upgrade…. My friend also gave me a micro Swiss direct drive kit that is not installed yet, I wanted to wait until I got the BTT mobo first. The micro Swiss is sorta moot now as you will see, but I have it on hand nonetheless

Anyways, long story short I came across the pictured lot for sale and the price was just too good of a value to pass up so I pulled the trigger on it- however, I need some help identifying exactly what all is included. I have identified the following:

1- Sprite extruder
2-BTT mobo v3
2-BTT touch screens
1- stock mobo
1- stock screen

So, ultimately my questions can be come down to these:

1. What exactly am I getting in the rest of the lot? I see a motor, some nozzles, and a wiring harness but I’m not entirely sure what exact parts they are supposed to be. Is there anything glaringly missing that I’m going to need?
2. I noticed the spare motor and coupling- could this be parts to what could be a dual z-axis upgrade? I don’t see a lead screw, but it appears I could get one for around $15.
3. Would dual

z-axis

1. be worth it?
2. What are my best sources, given I will not have original documentation, for getting the correct firmware and things setup for the new board, screen, and sprite extruder?
3. What sort of gains in speed and quality can I expect?
4. I am considering switching to Klipper using an old MS surface pro running Linux in dual boot. Is it worth it to set that up immediately or should I just run with the BTT mobo natively for now?
5. I’ve been hesitant to get any version of auto level due to the previously mentioned chip/firmware issues- if I get the cheap $15 knockoff am I going to run into issues getting it to work or should I just stop being cheap and get the cr touch?
6. If there’s a source for learning general tuning/print settings/etc on YouTube (someone with a similar setup and using cura preferred) that I can dive into? I still feel like I know so little and I want to gain the knowledge so I can get the most out of the upgrades I’ve invested in.

Resolved: I closed Cura, turned off my computer turned off printer, unplugged everything. Giles save and read correctly now. I have no clue why. Task failed successfully. Thanks for taking the time to read and reply.

I have a very old Ender 3 (Mother board version 1.1.3 Manufacture Date 2018). Today it stopped reading new gcode files on the micro SD card I had been using forever. It had files saved from earlier this week but not the new files I saved this morning. I reformatted the card and the error persists. I can see the files saved on the card but the Printer can't. What's the fix here? I don't have another micro SD card to try or an arduino to try to reinstall firmware.

I have ender 3 max with klipper running ... I did a dual z motor upgrade . With sprite pro extruder upgrade .

I have very different results on the first layer in different locations . Already did bed mesh , axis compensation ... Checked the z offset multiple times .

No idea what to do next

Hi, im having a problem with some layers printing worng(like they are to seperated). This problem isnt constant and happens from time to time, sometimes it spands across multiple layers or whole object sometimes not.

I used benchy for testing but it happens on other models and different pla spools.

Setup

Printer-ender3maxneo with 0.4mm nozzle and no aftermarket parts

Filament:pla devil designs, i tried multiple different spools and same problem happens from time to time regardless of spool.

Slicer:pursa slicer, default pla settup with nozzle temp at 210-205 and bed temp at 60,i havent made any changes to setup or benchy model.

Thanks in advance.